Lumintop GT micro

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LSX
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My light arrived today but there appears to be a problem with it.

I put a battery in, fired it up and it seems to work fine, ramping is all good etc. However I put it in turbo and within about 5 seconds smoke started to appear from the emitter and the emitter has tiny burn dots on it now. Looks like I’m going to have to contact Neal for a replacement.

mortuus
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wow i guess they did a bad job with the emitter and the board ? thats an obvious warranty issue so a replacement should be sent out.

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Looks like some dust/dirt was on the LED surface and caused it to burn. Possibly a solder flux splatter as well.

DB Custom
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Looks like the results of solder flux splatter to me, sometimes the stuff spits and it lands on the emitter, it’s usually clear and not readily noticeable. An alcohol dipped q-tip might clean it off, but now that it’s burned on it might not clean up so easily. A simple emitter replacement will solve the problem in a worst case scenario. Two wires…

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I use a micro fiber cloth with isop. alcohol to wipe down the LED's and MCPCB as a final cleanup. I haven't been able to open the bezel so far on the Micro. Not sure if it's just tight or glued. Haven't tried the more significant methods of clamping/strap wrenches, etc.

Has anyone been able to open it up yet?

LouieAtienza
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Tom E wrote:

I use a micro fiber cloth with isop. alcohol to wipe down the LED’s and MCPCB as a final cleanup. I haven’t been able to open the bezel so far on the Micro. Not sure if it’s just tight or glued. Haven’t tried the more significant methods of clamping/strap wrenches, etc.


Has anyone been able to open it up yet?

Not yet… Trying to resist the temptation to do so, as it works great as-is. But so far, I’m 3 for 3 with GT, GT70, and Mini…

Hobo
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Received my CW micro today. It’s so tiny!
Did anybody else notice a yellow spot right in the center of the beam?

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DB Custom
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The delay from Neal kinda spoils all the fun, I meant to have one of the first White Flat GT Micro lights but of course, that’s a big no as I don’t have the lights I paid for yet. And no word on what’s going to happen…

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Yea, this roll out could have gone better... I should have time this eve to spend on trying to get the bezel off.

Funny though - the EDC05C and this came out bout the same time from Lumintop, both 14500's but very different lights. The Micro at least supports flat top cells, the EDC05C doesn't, but for production, they will ship the light with a compatible cell (hoping... smile).

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Hey, mine’s finally in LACA (lah-cah), so I should be getting it… soon.

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Tom E
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Got the bezel off and I got those glue blues... Blue Loctite. Needed it to be well clamped between wood in a vise and good pressure from a strap wrench.

I got pics but Photobucket got those spin'n blues - loading forever... Tried Imgur but no luck so far.

 

Ohh - does this work? This is my setup. This shows the light tightly clamped in pine boards, maybe the angle helped, dunno, but it was pretty tight in there.

Here you can see I got movement - it was a slow steady process. It didn't simply crack the glue and came off easy, was stiff unthreading:

Cleaned up - used tweezers in the threads to loosen, also a hat pin, finger nail to remove stuff, and isop. alcohol in a paper towel:

It's down right dirty down there. Sloppy stuff, looks like a 15 mm MCPCB:

 

There's liquid or goo on the side. What a mess! No wonder some are having issues:

The tweezers I used. Didn't clean the bezel cap threads yet.

Slight raised surface ring:

Somewhat unusual, there was only 1 o-ring under the glass - nothing below the threads, like you usually find. Looks like there was a space for one though, but for a very thin one maybe.

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My Lumintop ODF30 also had like 10 drops of blue threadlocker. One drop should be enough! Angry

Maybe all that glue does double duty making it water tight?

ODF30:

Did the mcpcb have an adhesive or non-adhesive compound under it?

I wonder why it’s so messy? I can understand a little flux around the wires, but it’s all over the place.

LouieAtienza
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No wonder they want glue all over… Agree, just one drop is more than enough for such fine threads…

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It looks like flux - cleaned up easy with isop. alcohol. They use a thermal grease under the MCPCB, looks white. It's a definite 15 mm MCPCB. I'm looking to install a white flat 1*1, bought a few from Hank.

LouieAtienza
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Tom E wrote:

It looks like flux – cleaned up easy with isop. alcohol. They use a thermal grease under the MCPCB, looks white. It’s a definite 15 mm MCPCB. I’m looking to install a white flat 1*1, bought a few from Hank.

It looks as if a 16mm MCPCB may fit? I had thought of doing the same thing as well, as I did with my Mini…

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Tom E wrote:

Got the bezel off and I got those glue…

Flashlight glued… Order cancelled.

Thanks for the info.

Edit: Today I received a Mini, bought on February 23 in BG (with a free short tube). Un-glued.

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LouieAtienza wrote:
Tom E wrote:

It looks like flux - cleaned up easy with isop. alcohol. They use a thermal grease under the MCPCB, looks white. It's a definite 15 mm MCPCB. I'm looking to install a white flat 1*1, bought a few from Hank.

It looks as if a 16mm MCPCB may fit? I had thought of doing the same thing as well, as I did with my Mini...

Well I didn't pull it but I used 2 different objects and then measured - looks pretty definite at 15. You could trim down a 16 but need to take care of the pad edges - I've beveled them so no contact with the sides, but then the wire soldering can get tricky.

DB Custom
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That lil rascal has a really neat reflector! Big Smile

Thanks for showing us Tom, appreciate it. Hope I see mine some day. Silly

mortuus
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Tom E i dont think that golisi 26650 gonna fit the micro Big Smile

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TheAuditor
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Neal is sending me a replacement head, so the long wait begins again Smile

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

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mortuus wrote:
Tom E i dont think that golisi 26650 gonna fit the micro :D

I tried though smile

Jason - that Loctite I'm sure does help with the water proofing, specially since this light seems to lack an o-ring on the bottom of the threads. But like has been mentioned before, the Loctite could be used to prevent the user from causing damage, prevent contamination from user access, lock in the focusing, etc. Whenever you crack open that bezel, you run the risk of something falling down in the reflector, or on the LED surface.

Blue Loctite is the milder one - intended to be removed by tools, red is the more evil one.

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JB Weld is the one that you have to machine off and make new parts… Wink

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14500 KeepPower 840mAh Sanyo UR14500P Protected Button Top

Would this be a good battery for the micro? I am giving a Micro as a gift so I prefer a protected cell. I don’t want to worry about explaining the whole “dangers” of unprotected cells to the receiver of the gift.

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Received my GT Micro today, and it’s very nice – feels more compact than an Emisar D1, even if it’s not really smaller. However, the engraved name on the battery tube is on the reverse side to what I’ve seen in other pictures. It’s not possible to just untwist the tube by half a turn as this disconnects the battery. Anyone else have this happen?

As I was looking into this though, I had the same issue as at least one other person here: Re-assembling the light it turned on by itself at full power, the switch did nothing. There was a quick fix posted, but I don’t remember precisely what it was. I have no tools (not even a good soldering iron) to allow me to do more than clean a few connections.

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northbeard wrote:
Received my GT Micro today, and it’s very nice – feels more compact than an Emisar D1, even if it’s not really smaller. However, the engraved name on the battery tube is on the reverse side to what I’ve seen in other pictures. It’s not possible to just untwist the tube by half a turn as this disconnects the battery. Anyone else have this happen?

As I was looking into this though, I had the same issue as at least one other person here: Re-assembling the light it turned on by itself at full power, the switch did nothing. There was a quick fix posted, but I don’t remember precisely what it was. I have no tools (not even a good soldering iron) to allow me to do more than clean a few connections.


The battery tube writing can be anywhere. It is completely random. If it bothers you, you could sand down the battery tube end to make it shorter and that will allow it to rotate more.

Getting full power when connecting the battery could be due to a short circuit. I’m not sure. TheAuditor said he cleaned the contacts on the driver and battery tube and it fixed it, but not really. The problem came back. Neal is sending him a replacement head.

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mgracia85 wrote:
14500 KeepPower 840mAh Sanyo UR14500P Protected Button Top Would this be a good battery for the micro? I am giving a Micro as a gift so I prefer a protected cell. I don't want to worry about explaining the whole "dangers" of unprotected cells to the receiver of the gift.

A high powered light does not make a good gift to a muggle (i.e. non-techy type). Not sure those will fit, but if they did they should work ok, but you just won't get as much power. The good thing is less amps are drawn, therefore the battery lasts longer. I didn't check parasitic drain but I'd be concerned about that for low capacity cells. A Q8 with 4 18650's can last months and months, years even, sitting around without charging, but a light with a switch LED and a 14500 under 1000 mAh -- it's a risk, not dangerous (I don't think) but a risk to kill the cell.

mgracia85
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Tom E wrote:

mgracia85 wrote:
14500 KeepPower 840mAh Sanyo UR14500P Protected Button Top Would this be a good battery for the micro? I am giving a Micro as a gift so I prefer a protected cell. I don’t want to worry about explaining the whole “dangers” of unprotected cells to the receiver of the gift.

A high powered light does not make a good gift to a muggle (i.e. non-techy type). Not sure those will fit, but if they did they should work ok, but you just won’t get as much power. The good thing is less amps are drawn, therefore the battery lasts longer. I didn’t check parasitic drain but I’d be concerned about that for low capacity cells. A Q8 with 4 18650’s can last months and months, years even, sitting around without charging, but a light with a switch LED and a 14500 under 1000 mAh — it’s a risk, not dangerous (I don’t think) but a risk to kill the cell.

Yea I know but he seems to enjoy my small throwers every time he comes over to visit. And I figured the micro would be a good fit. Just wasn’t sure about the battery choice

I love my wife’s toy poodle

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I got 140 microamps parasitic drain with the switch light on.

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Got my Micro today and I love it! Big Smile

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Mine was just delivered today as well… where I work, and I’m home today. Sick

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