Lumintop GT micro

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-X3-
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I tried to open it annnd…

A drop or two of blue Loctite, nothing too hard to break open with bare hands Smile

40kCd with a trustfire 14500 @ 3,2A only… might have to invest in some good batteries.

Now, the real good news is : the LED shelf is insulated from the negative side of the battery. This means this light is usable with a Black Flat !

EDIT :
It is a perfect Black Flat host guys !


I reflowed one on the stock copper MCPCB, and simply removed the centering ring to allow the reflector to sit directly on the MCPCB.
3,2A and 105kCd @ 10m !

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Niiiice! How is it that the emitter shelf is isolated, by the anodizing?

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X3 wrote:

I reflowed one on the stock copper MCPCB, and simply removed the centering ring to allow the reflector to sit directly on the MCPCB.
3,2A and 105kCd @ 10m !

Hmm, sounds pretty simple. I might have to try this. Do the black flat burn up at 5A? It might be too risky to try a high drain. Unless you’ve got a spare emitter, of course. Lol

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JasonWW wrote:
X3 wrote:

I reflowed one on the stock copper MCPCB, and simply removed the centering ring to allow the reflector to sit directly on the MCPCB.
3,2A and 105kCd @ 10m !

Hmm, sounds pretty simple. I might have to try this. Do the black flat burn up at 5A? It might be too risky to try a high drain. Unless you’ve got a spare emitter, of course. Lol

I have a Black Flat in my GT Mini and my D1S… both with stock FET driver and 30Q batteries.
No fried emitter yet, I guess 5A is still OKish for them

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DB Custom wrote:
Niiiice! How is it that the emitter shelf is isolated, by the anodizing?

Yes I guess so.
My D1S also rocks a Black Flat and if I touch an un-anodized part and the switch bezel a the same time, the LED has a faint glow Silly

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Mine should be here soon. The Post Lady has it & tracking shows ‘Out for Delivery’. Wink

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lotrbfme
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I got mine yesterday. It is super tiny! It feels a lot smaller than my D1! Pretty impressive!

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lotrbfme wrote:
I got mine yesterday. It is super tiny! It feels a lot smaller than my D1! Pretty impressive!

Yeah, this !
When I put them side by side I couldn’t believe that length and diameter were identical… the GT Micro feels so much compact and tiny !

EDIT : one more pic of the Black Micro

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Thetasigma
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Anyone else having trouble with their Micro? Got one in the mail and with the body fully seated it bypasses the driver and runs directly off the battery, loosened very slightly it works correctly

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Sounds like someone got a bit overzealous with the solder and it is causing a short someplace. Only way to know for sure is to pull the light apart but that is not super easy.

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Thanks, I’ll have to tear it down when I get a moment

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Got my GT micro two days ago. Love the form factor and that beautiful reflector. It will get a narrower led though, a White Flat (for max throw and wows) or dedomed XP-G2 S4 3D (for much better tint), not decided yet.

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I haven’t seen a de-domed Cree emitter that had better tint than the White Flat. Not hot de-domed nor chemical de-domed and certainly not anything that started life in 3D trim. Not even as a result of Vinh’s cherry picking… one of those is sitting on my work bench gathering dust even now, pulled ftom a TK61Vn due to it’s sub-par tint.

Of course, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure…

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Sounds like someone got a bit overzealous with the solder and it is causing a short someplace. Only way to know for sure is to pull the light apart but that is not super easy.

Got it apart, inspected and everything looks good physically. Even did a factory reset but it is still not working correctly, turns itself on sometimes too

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Almost has to be the reflector touching the negative lead OR a split in the negative leads insulation allowing it to ground out. (Look for this where the lead comes through the emitter shelf and bends to reach the pad.)

As an aside, operational instability can easily come from excess pressure by the switch boot on an e-switch.

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Thetasigma wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Sounds like someone got a bit overzealous with the solder and it is causing a short someplace. Only way to know for sure is to pull the light apart but that is not super easy.

Got it apart, inspected and everything looks good physically. Even did a factory reset but it is still not working correctly, turns itself on sometimes too

Yep thats what mine does. I shall try loosening the head a bit and see that makes a difference.

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djozz wrote:
Got my GT micro two days ago. Love the form factor and that beautiful reflector. It will get a narrower led though, a White Flat (for max throw and wows) or dedomed XP-G2 S4 3D (for much better tint), not decided yet.

The Black Flat has a slightly warmer tint than the White Flat and is hitting 105kCd in my GTµ
Plus, they are cheaper

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Yay, got mine today! Well, delivered this past Friday but just got it and am playing with it today.

Quick question, though. The beam…

Is it supposed to be nicely focused, well-defined hotspot and faint but uniform spill? Or is it supposed to have 4 faint “petals” and pretty bright and “leaky” corona?

Based on the hotspot, it seems well-focused, bright circle, faint bluish dot in the center, but the corona seems awfully bright. Even my silly cheap-ass C8 clones have a sharp hotspot and uniform faint spill. Same with my P30 (reflector size more comparable).

Love the color, so ain’t complaining about that, just not sure about the focus, whether a little shaving this or shimming that might help.

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The "faint bluish dot in the middle" doesn't sound good. I've only seem that on a bad XPL HI (damage). Some pics, but auto white balance, etc. - tints don't actually look that extreme.

EDC05C on the left, NW micro on the right:

NW Micro alone:

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Yeah, the bottom pic is kinda what mine looks like, a “leaky” corona vs a crisp well-defined hotspot vs spill.

I’ve seen the bluish center dot on quite a few lights, no damage, just the light-profile of the emitter vs shape of the reflector, I imagine. Very faint/subtle, really need to move the beam around vs staring at it to catch it. But that’s always been telltale of a well-focused beam.

Just seemed odd about this beam. Maybe it’s the size of the chip vs size of the reflector, dunno.

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I’ve not been able to read the thread just yet but I do have a question concerning Sanyo 14500 batteries, which I’ve searched for but can’t find.

Does the GT Micro have issues with unprotected cells? I get flickering with my Sanyo 14500 battery :S Also, if I knock it lightly it seems to lose contact and switch off.

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I didn't notice a problem with my flat top SANYO 14500's but considering there's no driver spring, it's not surprising. Button top, or at least a decent protruding top is what I'd suggest. Maybe cleaning the brass button up with isop. alcohol may help as well.

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Threadneedle wrote:
I’ve not been able to read the thread just yet but I do have a question concerning Sanyo 14500 batteries, which I’ve searched for but can’t find.

Does the GT Micro have issues with unprotected cells? I get flickering with my Sanyo 14500 battery :S Also, if I knock it lightly it seems to lose contact and switch off.

Hmmm… I just looked at mine & there is plenty of extra room in the battery tube for longer cells.
So if you have a short 14500 there could well be a temporary disconnect if the light is jarred or flickering if the springs are making poor contact.
I just jarred mine on purpose & it “disconnected”.
Hope this helps.

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teacher wrote:
Threadneedle wrote:
I’ve not been able to read the thread just yet but I do have a question concerning Sanyo 14500 batteries, which I’ve searched for but can’t find.

Does the GT Micro have issues with unprotected cells? I get flickering with my Sanyo 14500 battery :S Also, if I knock it lightly it seems to lose contact and switch off.

Hmmm… I just looked at mine & there is plenty of extra room in the battery tube for longer cells.
So if you have a short 14500 there could well be a temporary disconnect if the light is jarred or flickering if the springs are making poor contact.
I just jarred mine on purpose & it “disconnected”.
Hope this helps.

Thank you, that does help. I’ve got some protected 14500s somewhere stashed away – it’s gonna be a task to dig them out but I’m motivated to now.

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My windyfire and purple efest unprotecteds will not work. But my Vapcells do work.

teacher
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blueb8llz wrote:
My windyfire and purple efest unprotecteds will not work. But my Vapcells do work.
Are your WindyFires button top or flat top?

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Got it open. Took some poking but the glue seal broke fairly easy. Messed up the LED+ wire so need to replace it.

 

It's a 2 board design with the FET and 7135 on the lower/contact board. Parts are only on one side of each board.

 

Can't see much here but that's the 7135 to the right on the lower board. Had some trouble getting it out til I figured it was 2 boards and had to come straight out, more or less, and not tilted.

The good thing is the MCU is on top, easy to reprogram. 

The MCPCB is about 14.15 mm in diameter. Looks painted white, possibly over red, and appears to have a gold plating on the bottom. A white paste was used under the MCPCB - nice amount.

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The driver is a FET+1 driver.
Here are some more pictures of it, so you don’t need to risk destroying yours:

Open in new tab to see it better…

The MCU really is there for easy access. Glad you noticed it.

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Yep, Schoki did a good job with the driver. I also like that he put the MCU on top for easy flashing.

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Ahh, mysteries solved I guess. Can't magnify those. R3 and R5 are for the FET? What value resistor for the switch LED? I see it's on the backside there - nice!

I think the wires are 22 AWG but not sure - would you guys know? Yea, I gotta replace the LED+ there but the driver itself is undamaged. The pill threads are little marked up but still work fine, and scratches should not show. I ended up using that heavy needle to poke thru the wire holes to knock out the driver.

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