Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

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JasonWW
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The amp limit Sofirn has chosen to use is 5.8A.

I don’t think anyone has seen this new SP33 driver design so we are all guessing about how it works.

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Jerommel
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JasonWW wrote:
The amp limit Sofirn has chosen to use is 5.8A.
A stupid choice i.m.h.o.
Quote:

I don’t think anyone has seen this new SP33 driver design so we are all guessing about how it works.


I’ll post pics when i get the driver.
Not sure if it’s the V1.0 or V2.0 version though.
BlueSwordM
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I think there may be another limiting factor.

The springs are the same found in the original SP33. While steel springs are fine at 3A for the XP-L version, they aren’t at 4A+, as they start to heat up a lot faster than at 3A, and at 5A+, this becomes even worse, resulting in an even high Vdroop.

Dual springs would have helped in this case like in the Q8 and a brass button on the driver.

So Sofirn chose to limit the current not based on the driver design, but on the spring design.

I’ve actually tried that trick with my Haikelite MT01. Trying to run on 1 cell is fine, but the spring gets stupid hot, and the problem becomes worse at lower voltage levels.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Jerommel
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Yep, the springs are wide so it’s a long thin wire, made of iron… Facepalm

pennzy
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So is it ok to do spring bypass or too much current?

BlueSwordM
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YES. It’s always much better to do spring bypasses with buck/boost drivers. Power is regulated, so less voltage loss in the springs means more runtime at high brightneses.

In fact, unless you are running 2+ cells, good springs/spring bypasses are needed for optimal power/runtime.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

pennzy
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Thanks, wasn’t sure if they were using the low quality springs to limit current.

JasonWW
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pennzy wrote:
So is it ok to do spring bypass or too much current?

It is okay to do, but it may not change anything in this particular driver design.

It seems the driver looks at resting battery voltage to determine whether to have Turbo or not. Voltage sag seems to not effect it. Quite strange.

Maybe a bypass will squeeze out a little more Turbo run time? I’m not sure. On other boost drivers, where the current goes up as voltage goes down, I always recommend bypasses. They make a bigger difference there. With this light, I’m not so sure.

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DB Custom
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Nice write up Jason, have you thought about slicing and dicing the 50.2 to get rid of the weird aura and tighten the beam?

Jerommel
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BlueSwordM wrote:
YES. It’s always much better to do spring bypasses with buck/boost drivers.
With ANY current regulated driver it is better.

You lose less voltage when your electrical path is optimized.

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DB Custom wrote:
Nice write up Jason, have you thought about slicing and dicing the 50.2 to get rid of the weird aura and tighten the beam?

No, I prefer the beam as is. The hotspot is already pretty small for my needs (walking around at night). I don’t want to go smaller. I’m not bothered by the corona. I think I’ve gotten used to it.

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Jerommel
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Well, it’s not as bad as the smaller Cree flip chip LEDs like the XP-G3 and the XP-L2, but i still don’t like it.
I’m gonna try a Nichia 144A in it, which is probably just as bad, but i found a suitable frosted TIR that will blend everything to perfection, or so i hope..
Gonna have to shorten the head though, because TIRs are short..
First i have to tidy the huge mess that has grown in the shed, though..

eas
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JasonWW wrote:
TexasToasted wrote:
Mountain Electronics has 26mm boards for XHP emitters and they will reflow the new LED on the board, if they have the LED you want in stock.
He’s in Finland, so MTN is not a good choice. He can probably go through Kaidomain, etc… much cheaper.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/MAXTOCH-Copper-MCPCB-Cree-XM-L2-XM-L-XML2-XML-26mm-x-1-6mm-Direct-Thermal/314381_32601411604.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.10.5e067dfbFwZeBC

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BlueSwordM wrote:
The springs are the same found in the original SP33. While steel springs are fine at 3A for the XP-L version, they aren’t at 4A+, as they start to heat up a lot faster than at 3A, and at 5A+, this becomes even worse, resulting in an even high Vdroop.

My v2 has a different tailspring than my original SP33. The old one was the full diameter of the tube. The new one is ~1/2 that. The length of the current path is shorter, as a result.

The point still stands about voltage drop, though.

Goodfellafin
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Thank you all for answers. This is what i like about this forum, you ask something and you get a decent answer in no time! Thanks guys! That 26mm mcpcb would be great but i have never reflowed a led. Maybe i will try with 20mm XHP50.2.

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Jerommel wrote:
Bwrf.. My DQG 26650 never steps down and has a similar output. I mean, what’s the fuss when we’re talking about 20+ Watts / 2500 Lumen lights on a fat battery? Still under 10 Amperes even when only 3 Volts. Strange decision.

The DQG 7x emitter 26650 definitely steps down. It’s actually very noticeable. Just try it. I wish Sofirn will get rid of the timed step downs on their newer lights that already have advance temperature regulation. I don’t want timed step downs especially when used in outdoor cold temperatures.

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Driver pics are added to post 1.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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eas
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Thanks for the driver photos!

It looks like it is using the TI TPS61088 boost converter.

Edit: And it looks like this is how an switch current limit is set.

There are other ways to do current limiting though, using an op-amp and the voltage feedback pin.

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I have this light and for $20 it’s a bargain, 2400 real lumens and 1000 sustainable lumens, with great UI (click on click off)

The things I don’t like:

-Tint: it’s cool, a 5000k would be better
-Can’t go from moonlight to regular modes, you have to turn off the light and then turn on with a single click
-Can’t turn off from turbo, you need two clicks, first click gets you to previous mode and second click to turn off

Jerommel
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SKV89 wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
Bwrf.. My DQG 26650 never steps down and has a similar output. I mean, what’s the fuss when we’re talking about 20+ Watts / 2500 Lumen lights on a fat battery? Still under 10 Amperes even when only 3 Volts. Strange decision.

The DQG 7x emitter 26650 definitely steps down. It’s actually very noticeable. Just try it. I wish Sofirn will get rid of the timed step downs on their newer lights that already have advance temperature regulation. I don’t want timed step downs especially when used in outdoor cold temperatures.

Oh, i never noticed. I guess i only use turbo for short periods.
Trying it now.
Aha, yes it does step down after a minute or so.
Ooh, it’s hot !
But it doesn’t step down based on battery voltage or current or does it?
At least not as early as the SP33.
Jerommel
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Anthon wrote:
I have this light and for $20 it’s a bargain, 2400 real lumens and 1000 sustainable lumens, with great UI (click on click off)

The things I don’t like:

-Tint: it’s cool, a 5000k would be better
-Can’t go from moonlight to regular modes, you have to turn off the light and then turn on with a single click
-Can’t turn off from turbo, you need two clicks, first click gets you to previous mode and second click to turn off

When you go to turbo from OFF it’s just one click to turn it off.
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JasonWW wrote:
Driver pics are added to post 1.

Awesome!
Thanks, Jason. Thumbs Up
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eas wrote:
Thanks for the driver photos!

It looks like it is using the TI TPS61088 boost converter.

Edit: And it looks like this is how an switch current limit is set.

There are other ways to do current limiting though, using an op-amp and the voltage feedback pin.


That’s very good to know !
Hopefully we can identify the resistor and replace it.
polarweis
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so who will slice the led? just ordered mine. usually shipping is pretty fast.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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TexasToasted
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polarweis wrote:
usually shipping is pretty fast.

Placed my order from their Aliexpress store Nov 14.
Tracking shows light was shipped Nov 26.
No updates since then. 30 days later and it hasn’t left China yet.
polarweis
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TexasToasted wrote:
polarweis wrote:
usually shipping is pretty fast.
Placed my order from their Aliexpress store Nov 14. Tracking shows light was shipped Nov 26. No updates since then. 30 days later and it hasn’t left China yet.

it is a busy time for the chinese and sometimes just bad luck i guess. my most recent sofirn took 11 days after they shipped it

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

JasonWW
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TexasToasted wrote:
polarweis wrote:
usually shipping is pretty fast.

Placed my order from their Aliexpress store Nov 14.
Tracking shows light was shipped Nov 26.
No updates since then. 30 days later and it hasn’t left China yet.

If you don’t have updates, how do you know it’s still in China? My light took 27 days, but I ordered it a month before Thanksgiving. All deliveries are going to take longer during the holiday season (from about mid October to mid January). I had a 20 day gap of no updates. It seems yours got shipped 10 days after ordering, mine was 4 days after. I would guess you’ll probably see some updates in the next week or so. Once it hits the US, it can be delivered pretty quick. I wouldn’t stress too much about it.

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Mine will be here today. 32 days.

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JasonWW wrote:
If you don’t have updates, how do you know it’s still in China?

When a package leaves China, the EPacket tracking shows it was sent to the USA.
When it arrives in the USA, USPS tracking shows it arrived.
Neither of those 2 things have happened, so I have no reason to believe the package has left China yet.

I have had packages arrive without ever getting any tracking info. That’s usually from dishonest Aliexpress vendors giving me a bogus tracking number to extend their shipping deadline.

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