Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

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pennzy
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My tracking went from “in transit in country”(China) to“arrived in NY” very quickly.
Seems to have missed a step or two.

Satan@103TFS
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Jason would you please give me a detail of side led mod

JasonWW
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Satan@103TFS wrote:
Jason would you please give me a detail of side led mod

I need to do it over using a smd led. Parasitic drain is crazy high. I ordered some 3×3×2mm trim pots so I can easily adjust the brightness. I’ll post pictures when I redo it.

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pennzy
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I noticed that sp33 has relatively short run time on high, less than the c8f and about the same as the sp32a. Is the XHP50 a less efficient emitter?This is from the Sofirn specs. (I know the 26650 an 18650 run times are reversed for the sp33 chart)

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TexasToasted wrote:
polarweis wrote:
usually shipping is pretty fast.
Placed my order from their Aliexpress store Nov 14. Tracking shows light was shipped Nov 26. No updates since then. 30 days later and it hasn’t left China yet.

I’m in the same boat, ordered 11/11, shipped 11/26, no further updates.

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pennzy wrote:
I noticed that sp33 has relatively short run time on high, less than the c8f and about the same as the sp32a. Is the XHP50 a less efficient emitter? This is from the Sofirn specs. (I know the 26650 an 18650 run times are reversed for the sp33 chart)

I never pay attention to factory run time charts. They rarely give all the details and are usually way off.

As far as efficiency (power used/lumens out) the xhp50.2 is pretty normal. Consider it’s using 4 x XPG2 (or XPG3?) at a fairly low current where their efficiency is better. The SP32A uses a single XPL at a much higher current where it’s efficiency is poor. The C8F uses 3 x xpl so it’s efficiency should be better, about the same as the xhp50.2. Then you have driver efficiency and the reflector/lens efficiency. They all factor in. Then the manufacturer lumen ratings might be off a little. The C8F uses a FET driver so it’s brightness level drops as battery voltage goes down. The SP33 v2 is a boost driver and mostly maintains the brightness levels. The SP32A I’m not sure what driver design it has. Etc… Tired

It’s too complicated for me.

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I guess I won the ‘AliExpress Shipping Lottery’….. for the first time ever!! Big Smile

I placed my order 23 November 2018 & mine just Processed Through Facility ISC MIAMI FL (USPS) today.

It should be here soon… “should” being the operative word. Thumbs Up . Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Okay, I tried many different switch led combos.

This one is the orange-ish red led. It’s an led I had laying around and it seemed to run fine at 4.2v with no resistor. It was not even that bright. It lasted about 15 minutes. I guess it burned up. It drew a crazy 144mA. Not 144uA like you might expect, but 1000 times higher! Basically 144,000uA. No good at all.

Next I tried a white smd led and a 8k resistor. It was too dim. I tried a 2k resistor (850uA drain) and it was still too dim.

I decided to switch to a blue led (950uA drain) as well as elevate it up to the switch button tube to increase the brightness. It’s not as bright as I’d like, but we are limited by this switch design. This will get the job done. Party

https://youtu.be/39Ii-1cxkZU

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eas
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I didn’t notice before. There are two footprints for FETs?

Oh, but the boost-converter has the switch built in, so the FET is for reverse polarity protection?

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Thanks Jason , I have to try remove the driver first.

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Satan@103TFS wrote:
Thanks Jason , I have to try remove the driver first.

Here is a guide. The best way is to push the wires down and out of the way. Then take a small diameter rod and tap lightly on the negative side hole. The positive side hole does have a few nearby components, so you have to feel around to make sure and avoid them.

Set the head on a vice or something solid. Something that will not absorb the energy of the hammer taps. Then do very light taps. The driver has to slide out evenly due to the vertical board. I did a few light taps on one side and then switched over to the other side. I went back and forth until it seemed like the glue had snapped loose. Then I was able to pull the driver out by the spring. I had to both pull and wiggle. You can also push the driver with a rod as you’re pulling. Just be careful not to get it crooked or it will jam up.

Here is a close up of the upper right area.


.

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Satan@103TFS
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That helpfull thanks again any idea to slice the dome of 50.2 ?

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Satan@103TFS wrote:
That helpfull thanks again any idea to slice the dome of 50.2 ?

I have no reason to slice.

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Thanks Jason for the run time explanation. I will have to just give mine a try and see how it lasts. It’s just odd that the 26650 SP33 doesn’t outlast the 18650s by a good margin on paper at least at about the1000 lumen mode.

Great light . Had mine out in a snow storm last night. I’m a NW fan so it took some time to adjust to CW. Not bad though. My MyBoxer IR reading was 071m ohm with the Sofirn battery. It reads about half this for the Schockli 5500 but I don’t put much faith in these readings. The UI is different from my other lights but ok. The beam is what is best, for me anyway. It fills the yard with even light with a little throw. This the kind of light I keep ready on the table for quick looks outside and walks. This is my third 26650 light and I like them all. They feel good in the hand and the extra capacity is nice. Good job Sofirn.

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JasonWW wrote:
Satan@103TFS wrote:
Thanks Jason , I have to try remove the driver first.

Here is a guide. The best way is to push the wires down and out of the way. Then take a small diameter rod and tap lightly on the negative side hole. The positive side hole does have a few nearby components, so you have to feel around to make sure and avoid them.

Set the head on a vice or something solid. Something that will not absorb the energy of the hammer taps. Then do very light taps. The driver has to slide out evenly due to the vertical board. I did a few light taps on one side and then switched over to the other side. I went back and forth until it seemed like the glue had snapped loose. Then I was able to pull the driver out by the spring. I had to both pull and wiggle. You can also push the driver with a rod as you’re pulling. Just be careful not to get it crooked or it will jam up.

Here is a close up of the upper right area.

.

Thumbs Up
Thanks for the pictures!
Very helpful.

I tried yesterday, not by tapping but by pushing.
I applied heat too.
Didn’t work..
So apparently the glue has to ‘crack’ or the PCB has to be tapped loose from the glue or the head.
No problems on the left, but a little risky on the right..

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When going to ML with long press, does this light turn on to the memorized mode (potentially destroying night vision) before it goes to ML like the C8F does? I can put up with a lot, but that might be one thing with which up I cannot put.

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No.
Press and hold opens ML mode. Short press for off.
No other way to turn on ML, not possible to go to other modes from ML.

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will dedoming the led give a tighter hotspot? even with the orange peel reflector? I asked sofirn to include a smooth reflector in my order. the old one was SMO so i hope i can just switch it out. Does anyone have the old and the new model?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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manithree wrote:
When going to ML with long press, does this light turn on to the memorized mode (potentially destroying night vision) before it goes to ML like the C8F does? I can put up with a lot, but that might be one thing with which up I cannot put.

Are you refering to the 18650 version C8F?

My 21700 version goes straight to moonlight.

Jerommel wrote:

No other way to turn on ML, not possible to go to other modes from ML.

Well, you can go from moonlight to turbo if you want.

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polarweis wrote:
will dedoming the led give a tighter hotspot?

Yes. A bit tighter hotspot for longer throw, but also a bit less brightness.

The OP texture is really light. I doubt you would see much difference going to SMO. I imagine the SMO will measure a bit higher lux, though.

DB Custom will have both v1 and v2 pretty soon. Comparing pics, the reflector hole at the bottom of the SMO looks similar to the OP so you may not need to drill it bigger. You never know, it might require some massaging to get it to fit over the xhp50.2

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JasonWW wrote:
Are you refering to the 18650 version C8F?

My 21700 version goes straight to moonlight.

Yep, the 18650 version. It turns on as soon as the button is pressed and goes to the remembered mode, and only goes to ML after the button has been held down long enough to distinguish that it’s a hold. It drives me crazy. They should have just skipped the ML altogether on that light.

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manithree wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Are you refering to the 18650 version C8F?

My 21700 version goes straight to moonlight.

Yep, the 18650 version. It turns on as soon as the button is pressed and goes to the remembered mode, and only goes to ML after the button has been held down long enough to distinguish that it’s a hold. It drives me crazy. They should have just skipped the ML altogether on that light.


I guess you can cover the end of the light real quick whenever you need moonlight. A bit inconvenient.

The newer UI on the 21700 is definitely an improvement. I didn’t even bother buying the 18650 version because of it’s UI. I think it was one click on, press/hold for off. That really annoys me.

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Jerommel wrote:
When you go to turbo from OFF it’s just one click to turn it off.

When you go to turbo from off yes a single click turns the light off but when you go into turbo from any other mode the first click returns to the previous mode and only then does the subsequent click power off. I agree that’s quite a bit annoying!

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Cereal_killer wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
When you go to turbo from OFF it’s just one click to turn it off.

When you go to turbo from off yes a single click turns the light off but when you go into turbo from any other mode the first click returns to the previous mode and only then does the subsequent click power off. I agree that’s quite a bit annoying!

I actually like this feature. I’ll be walking along on Med for instance and might need to look further than normal so I activate Turbo, look around, then go back to Med to continue my walk. I wish NarsilM did that. Instead, it goes off and you have to click the light back on. So you go completely dark for a second.

Oh well, you can’t have it both ways. Lol

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^^ i agree, i like it too.
Similar to other lights i have, like DQG 26650.
The momentary turbo of the Concept 1 is great too.

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So, i’m trying to find a good TIR optic for the Nichia 144A…
The 3 candidates that would fit in the SP33 don’t make me happy…
The 144A is one difficult LED to work with…
Maybe i should slice the dome off..
But i ordered some TIRs i hadn’t seen before.
Waiting… maybe 1 month, maybe even 2…

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JasonWW wrote:
Cereal_killer wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
When you go to turbo from OFF it’s just one click to turn it off.
When you go to turbo from off yes a single click turns the light off but when you go into turbo from any other mode the first click returns to the previous mode and only then does the subsequent click power off. I agree that’s quite a bit annoying!
I actually like this feature. I’ll be walking along on Med for instance and might need to look further than normal so I activate Turbo, look around, then go back to Med to continue my walk. I wish NarsilM did that. Instead, it goes off and you have to click the light back on. So you go completely dark for a second.

Oh well, you can’t have it both ways. Lol


Jerommel wrote:
^^ i agree, i like it too.
+1… I like that feature a lot. Thumbs Up .. To each his own though. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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For those wanting to change the LED tint, but can only find 20mm mcpcb, here are some pics I did of a 50.2 on a 20mm board.

So it looks like it will fit. Just solder your wires to the outer part of the pad and keep the solder somewhat flat. You can even add some tape to the reflector as extra protection against a short.

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Nice work Jason. Yeah, mine should be here Monday, they’re saying.

When a reflector sits that close to the pads on the MCPCB I always overlay the base of the reflector with Kapton tape. I have a roll of 2” width, usually cut a square piece and apply it over the hole then trim the hole out with a scalpel. Insurance , and a lot of the time I apply a second piece just in case.

In some cases, I will take the cut off tabs from large Omten switches and use them to move the contact outward, simply by soldering the tab onto the pad and then the wire lead onto the end of the tab outside of the MCPCB. Thermal adhesive helps to secure it at the connection and ensure nothing shorts out.

It’s just the things you learn to do after seeing a wide variety of lights and trying , well, a lot of things…

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teacher wrote:
I guess I won the ‘AliExpress Shipping Lottery’….. for the first time ever!! Big Smile

I placed my order 23 November 2018 & mine just Processed Through Facility ISC MIAMI FL (USPS) today. (13 December).

It should be here soon… “should” being the operative word. Thumbs Up . Wink

Mine arrived today (SP33 Kit / SP33 / SP31 V2.0 Kit / SP10A V2.0) 26 days from placement of order. My best time ever for AliExpress.

I am totally impressed with the the SP33 (and the others too as far as that goes). Nice size light & the ‘Fit n’ Finish’ is “Sofirn Perfect”!! Thumbs Up

Totally satisified with this light as with all my Sofirns. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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