Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

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pennzy
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My 5000 K XHP 50.2 came in today .Totally messed up the swap. I should of taken the new emitter off the new 20mm board and put it on the 26mm board that comes stock in the SP33. Instead I installed the 20mm board thinking there was clearance between the soldier joints and the reflector. Well there is if you keep the soldier blob real low but mine shorted . That in itself would not have put the kabash on things but when I removed the lens , the gasket stuck in it and pulled off the dome. Talk about a purple beam. Long story short, put the original emitter back in and I am back to where I started. Oh well. Modding 101.

Matt1357
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I dont like that after the turbo is gone due to low voltage you have to double click for high

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Thank you DBC and Teacher for using my XHP70.2 dedome thread as a reference! Blushing
I ordered an SP33 and soon I will try XHP50.2 too.

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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

That was a great read, thanks Jason.  It’s probably the same scenario with the 18650’s then as I tested my protected KP 18650 vs the 30Q and the 30Q was substantially better.


KeepPower uses a lot of different 18650 models to rewrap with their protection circuitry, so you have to know what cell is under the wrapper.

Concerning older and newer chemistries, the same thing does apply to 18650’s as well. The Panasonic NCR18650B 3400 mah (aka Panny B) came out in 2012. It can not compare to a newer cell like the Samsung 35E. The test below is a protected Panny B (not a KeepPower version). This is only at 3A! Huge voltage sag.


.

Ok definitely time for me to upgrade from my panny bs!

Quick question Jason tho… how are the “5500mAh” Sofirn cells that are included in the kit on amazon?

I have a bunch that I just use as backups. Just ordered some of the black Shocklis from Richard and plan on buying more unless there are even better cells I should be considering??

Mike

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From post 177.

JasonWW wrote:
Funtastic wrote:

I’d also be bundling the Sofirn 26650 and it’s unclear how long it’ll last on Turbo since no one has tested? I don’t really want to import other 26650’s just for longer Turbo as it’ll up my prices and I don’t really want to go that route

A couple people have tried the Sofirn 26650. Their 5500mah model seems to measure closer to 5200mah and their 5000mah seems to measure closer to 4700mah. This was measured on typical battery chargers that measure capacity so not super exact.

It seems like the more current reviews show the capacity closer to spec.

Their internal resistance is a bit high. They are not high drain cells and don’t produce high output in FET driven lights. Since the SP33 seems to have a set voltage that determines when it looses Turbo mode and not a set current limit, I’d say their 26650 cells should be fine to use in the SP33.

I wish we had some better reviews of their batteries.


I was told by Sofirn that their 5000 and 5500 are basically the same cell, but some gave higher capacity and are labeled 5500mah, while the lower ones are labeled 5000mah.

The Shockli 5500 is a superior battery. A real 5750 or so mah and good at delivering high amps. I think it came out in either 2017 or 2018 so it’s quite a modern cell. I use it in my SP33 and get longer battery life than any of my other 4300-5000mah cells.

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Mikeadoo
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Thanks guys. that’s interesting to me at least Smile

Mike

Th558
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Does the xhp50.2 version come in neutral white or is it a typo? I think they copied and pasted from the xpl version but not sure. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofirn-SP33-Mini-Powerful-Led-flashlight...CREE-XPL2-LED-Mini-Handy-flashlight-6/32831075588.html

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Th558 wrote:
Does the xhp50.2 version come in neutral white or is it a typo? I think they copied and pasted from the xpl version but not sure. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofirn-SP33-Mini-Powerful-Led-flashlight...CREE-XPL2-LED-Mini-Handy-flashlight-6/32831075588.html

It says 5350K-5700K, but it’s more cold white. More towards 5700K or maybe even 6000K. I would not call it neutral white.

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Th558 wrote:
Does the xhp50.2 version come in neutral white or is it a typo? I think they copied and pasted from the xpl version but not sure.

I just received mine from Sofirn official shop and it's indeed cool white but that's no surprise as Sofirn advertise it as 6000-6500K.

I would be carefull about what is said in your link as the only color temp "5350k-5700k" mention is in the "clicky order thingy" and the pictures that show the led aren't from an xhp50.2 (obviously smaller led)

I don't like cool light neither and my idea was to order the one from Sofirn shop and change the led for a warmer one if i really dislike it.

Got it only two hours ago so i have no tested it for real yet but my first thought when powering it for the first time was "uuuuh what a ugly green ring" wich seems to be typical for xhp50.2 with reflector

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Interesting, 5700K is considered Daylight White. My flash units fire at that temperature for my camera’s. These are $400-600 flash units. I’ve always found it interesting what Kelvin people find “comfortable” when in real life the actual Kelvin of ambient light is not what most people think it is.

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Kame Sennin wrote:

my first thought when powering it for the first time was “uuuuh what a ugly green ring” wich seems to be typical for xhp50.2 with reflector


Are you confusing green with yellow? The 50.2 and 70.2 typically have a yellow corona. I’ve never seen green.

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DB Custom
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To me, the flip chip technology from Cree (XP-G3, XP-L2, XHP-50.2, XHP-70.2, XHP-35.2) has a greenish yellow sickly aura around the hot spot. I’ve found that slicing the phosphor off the substrate surrounding the die pretty much eliminates this, the only way to do it though is also with a slice of the dome. There are no bond wires but it’s fairly easy to mess up and get a bit of phosphor off the die itself and reveal the blue light.

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@ Kame Sennin;

Changed the 5700º to 5000º and see no yellowish / green halo. But the tint is somewhat ‘softer’.

Arrow Electronics

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Well yeah, Sidney, that one’s a 90 CRI version. Wink Nice find! It won’t put out anywhere near what the cooler white ones will do but still, beautiful light…

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@ DB;

I did a ceiling bounce measurement w/ phone app and got 2579 lm (instant on). My measurements may be off some as my reference light is a Dorcy 3s “C” cell (alkaline). And I do downplay the data (throwing out the highs and lows on some 5 tests).

I believe their boost driver has something to do with this value – I was also very surprised. And the price / shipping was excellent!

Th558
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JasonWW wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Does the xhp50.2 version come in neutral white or is it a typo? I think they copied and pasted from the xpl version but not sure. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofirn-SP33-Mini-Powerful-Led-flashlight...CREE-XPL2-LED-Mini-Handy-flashlight-6/32831075588.html

It says 5350K-5700K, but it’s more cold white. More towards 5700K or maybe even 6000K. I would not call it neutral white.

What i meant is are there two versions. The one in the sofirn official store on AliExpress says 6000-6500k but there’s another seller on AliExpress which shows a warmer tint. I think it’s just a mistake tho. Btw do you think this is better than the convoy S11. I need something which is floody but can do 1000ish lumens continuous whilst still being comfortable to hold.
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DB Custom wrote:
... a greenish yellow sickly aura around the hot spot ...

Perfect description imho ! Wink

 

@Sidney Stratton : Thank you

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Th558 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Does the xhp50.2 version come in neutral white or is it a typo? I think they copied and pasted from the xpl version but not sure. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofirn-SP33-Mini-Powerful-Led-flashlight...CREE-XPL2-LED-Mini-Handy-flashlight-6/32831075588.html

It says 5350K-5700K, but it’s more cold white. More towards 5700K or maybe even 6000K. I would not call it neutral white.

What i meant is are there two versions. The one in the sofirn official store on AliExpress says 6000-6500k but there’s another seller on AliExpress which shows a warmer tint. I think it’s just a mistake tho. Btw do you think this is better than the convoy S11. I need something which is floody but can do 1000ish lumens continuous whilst still being comfortable to hold.

The SP33 v1 is the discontinued unit with the xpl. All SP33 sold now are v2 and have the 50.2. The description in your link is incorrect about the led tint. A mistake.

I have zero experience with the S11. It is rear clicky only, which I don’t care for.

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This is a great thread! Thanks Jason and all you reviewers/contributors!

I ordered one kit through the Amazon group buy and one by itself through Ali. 

With the Amazon Sp33, I got approx. 6.3A from the Sofirn 5500 and with my Shockli 5500. The beam is a little yellow within the white hotspot.

With the Aliexpress sourced Sp33, I got 6.45A with the Shockli. The hotspot is solid white and perhaps, tighter.

I haven't done any spring mods.

I suppose the beam differences are due to reflector positioning. 

I don't mean to relate beam appearances and current reads. 

I don't have an S11 but for approximately the same price, I prefer the Sofirn. 

Recent/ongoing Mods:

https://imgur.com/a/8qUyZbL

https://imgur.com/a/EHq0i

https://imgur.com/a/9RkZISX

 

                                

 

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Interesting comparison between the VG10s and SP33.

The VG10s has 1100 lumens vs 2500 but does not appear that much brighter because of the hot spot. You actually have to pay attention at the spill and the larger/smoother hot spot to see where that lumen difference goes.

I always preffer floody to throwers for an EDC. However, in an urban enviroment, floody “waste” light because it’s competing with ambient lighting. So a thrower with half the lumens appear to be be just as bright.

Two instances….in a dark area standing in between two buildings, the SP33 shows off its high lumens.

When i pointed across the street at a building 350 feet away, hard to tell because both covered the building about equally and spill was irrelevant.

Another interesting thing was the tint made comparison more difficult.

In the end….i stll preffer the SP33 at twice the price….even though we are talking about 15 vs 30 bucks.

Moses came from the mountaintop carrying a tablet. The Words were....WITH GREAT LUMENS COMES GREAT REPONSIBILITY.

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Th558 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Does the xhp50.2 version come in neutral white or is it a typo? I think they copied and pasted from the xpl version but not sure. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofirn-SP33-Mini-Powerful-Led-flashlight...CREE-XPL2-LED-Mini-Handy-flashlight-6/32831075588.html
It says 5350K-5700K, but it’s more cold white. More towards 5700K or maybe even 6000K. I would not call it neutral white.
What i meant is are there two versions. The one in the sofirn official store on AliExpress says 6000-6500k but there’s another seller on AliExpress which shows a warmer tint. I think it’s just a mistake tho. Btw do you think this is better than the convoy S11. I need something which is floody but can do 1000ish lumens continuous whilst still being comfortable to hold.

Floody is a relative term. The SP33 is floddier the lets say a VG10. Larger, smoother hot spot and more spill.

The more lumens, the better . i would love the Thrunite TC20 with an xhp70.2 but at $90 it’s just too expensive. At $30, the SP33 is a better buy. Of course there is cheaper with less lumens, but 15 vs 30 bucks is not much of an argument.

Moses came from the mountaintop carrying a tablet. The Words were....WITH GREAT LUMENS COMES GREAT REPONSIBILITY.

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JasonWW wrote:
It says 5350K-5700K, but it’s more cold white. More towards 5700K or maybe even 6000K. I would not call it neutral white.

I compared all 4 at the same time.

The SP33 is whiter then the Thorfire Q8/VG10s/TK15.

I would say it’s in the 6000k plus range.

Moses came from the mountaintop carrying a tablet. The Words were....WITH GREAT LUMENS COMES GREAT REPONSIBILITY.

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Cereal_killer wrote:
The pair of boards are done!

The switch board will be $3.45 so theres definitely no reason to have to destroy your factory driver and do tons of extra work just to save that…

OK, quick question for the driver folks. I’ve messaged Dan but he’s not around much lately so here goes. Is there any reason this driver wouldn’t work with IOS/D4 ramping firmware? I was hoping it would work but it won’t even give a flicker except when it rarely seems to ramp a bit or sometimes just gives up turbo for a second. Using IOS ramping on an 85 MCU from RMM, Decent FET, a single 7135, diode on D1, 10uf cap with zener piggyback on C1, 36k pulldown resistor on R4 over by the FET. I can build a working driver on RMM’s FET+1 board and these components so what gives? I know it’s a hack, don’t laugh too hard…

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kyfishguy wrote:
Cereal_killer wrote:
The pair of boards are done!

The switch board will be $3.45 so theres definitely no reason to have to destroy your factory driver and do tons of extra work just to save that…

OK, quick question for the driver folks. I’ve messaged Dan but he’s not around much lately so here goes. Is there any reason this driver wouldn’t work with IOS/D4 ramping firmware? I was hoping it would work but it won’t even give a flicker except when it rarely seems to ramp a bit or sometimes just gives up turbo for a second. Using IOS ramping on an 85 MCU from RMM, Decent FET, a single 7135, diode on D1, 10uf cap with zener piggyback on C1, 36k pulldown resistor on R4 over by the FET. I can build a working driver on RMM’s FET+1 board and these components so what gives? I know it’s a hack, don’t laugh too hard…


This is out of my knowledge zone, but just to confirm, you switched to a 3v led and loaded a 2 channel driver firmware, right?

Hopefully someone with more driver design knowledge will answer you soon.

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JasonWW wrote:
kyfishguy wrote:
Cereal_killer wrote:
The pair of boards are done!

The switch board will be $3.45 so theres definitely no reason to have to destroy your factory driver and do tons of extra work just to save that…

OK, quick question for the driver folks. I’ve messaged Dan but he’s not around much lately so here goes. Is there any reason this driver wouldn’t work with IOS/D4 ramping firmware? I was hoping it would work but it won’t even give a flicker except when it rarely seems to ramp a bit or sometimes just gives up turbo for a second. Using IOS ramping on an 85 MCU from RMM, Decent FET, a single 7135, diode on D1, 10uf cap with zener piggyback on C1, 36k pulldown resistor on R4 over by the FET. I can build a working driver on RMM’s FET+1 board and these components so what gives? I know it’s a hack, don’t laugh too hard…


This is out of my knowledge zone, but just to confirm, you switched to a 3v led and loaded a 2 channel driver firmware, right?

Hopefully someone with more driver design knowledge will answer you soon.

Correct!

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Bought a pair from Aliexpress for my dad and just got it today. (Sofirn's Official Store)

 

https://imgur.com/a/HduZ5mq

 

My impressions here;

 

Positives:

  • Comes with 18650 adapter
  • Separation of strobes and turbo from normal mode makes the normal usage less annoying
  • The light output is pretty strong
  • Relatively cheap, I got it for $21 a piece.

Negatives:

  • Seller could have packed the item better. As you saw in the album above, the boxes are in a really questionable shape.
  • Both of my lights shows quite noticable "doughnuting". The very center shows some yellow hint and quite dimmer than the surrounding "hotspots", and then the "angry blue" spill beam.

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rngwn wrote:

Bought a pair from Aliexpress for my dad and just got it today. (Sofirn’s Official Store)


 


https://imgur.com/a/HduZ5mq


 


My impressions here;


 


Positives:



  • Comes with 18650 adapter

  • Separation of strobes and turbo from normal mode makes the normal usage less annoying

  • The light output is pretty strong

  • Relatively cheap, I got it for $21 a piece.


Negatives:



  • Seller could have packed the item better. As you saw in the album above, the boxes are in a really questionable shape.

  • Both of my lights shows quite noticable “doughnuting”. The very center shows some yellow hint and quite dimmer than the surrounding “hotspots”, and then the “angry blue” spill beam.


Concerning your negatives.
1. It looks like the boxes got banged around in shipping. Their main job is to protect what’s inside the box. It looks like they did their job. Sofirn has to keep the shipping costs down so there is a compromise here.
2. I’m not seeing the donut hole pattern in your pics or in my light. The slight OP reflector seems to smooth it out. Do your pictures not show it, but you see it in person?

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JasonWW wrote:
Concerning your negatives. 1. It looks like the boxes got banged around in shipping. Their main job is to protect what’s inside the box. It looks like they did their job. Sofirn has to keep the shipping costs down so there is a compromise here. 2. I’m not seeing the donut hole pattern in your pics or in my light. The slight OP reflector seems to smooth it out. Do your pictures not show it, but you see it in person?

I can kinda forgive the crumpled box, as long as the light is usable. Though that’s cutting it pretty close.

The donutting is indeed worse for me in person. It’s still there in the photo (at least with my monitor) but much more subtle than the real-life.

There is more concerning issue, though. I kinda ran into a kind of glitch on one of the light. After the light entered “Turbo” mode, the “High” would no longer be accessible until I re-screw the tail cap. When this glitch occurs, one click on the side-switch in “Turbo” mode will not turn off the light (as it should have), but rather drop the light into “Medium” mode, and holding the light will only going back and forth between the “Medium” <—-> “Low”.

Now the glitch magically disappears, but I cannot say for sure when it will come back and haunt us. I wonder if someone has encountered this glitch before, and how they deal with it.

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I am not sure if this is the same thing but I know that below 3.7 volts , the top mode can’t be accessed.

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That might be the case.

Although it’s quite annoying that you can’t use high mode normally and need to go “turbo” when that happens.

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