Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

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pennzy
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Agreed. As far as the beam is concerned, I sliced mine and added DC Fix. Looks better.

JasonWW
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rngwn wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Concerning your negatives. 1. It looks like the boxes got banged around in shipping. Their main job is to protect what’s inside the box. It looks like they did their job. Sofirn has to keep the shipping costs down so there is a compromise here. 2. I’m not seeing the donut hole pattern in your pics or in my light. The slight OP reflector seems to smooth it out. Do your pictures not show it, but you see it in person?

I can kinda forgive the crumpled box, as long as the light is usable. Though that’s cutting it pretty close.

The donutting is indeed worse for me in person. It’s still there in the photo (at least with my monitor) but much more subtle than the real-life.

There is more concerning issue, though. I kinda ran into a kind of glitch on one of the light. After the light entered “Turbo” mode, the “High” would no longer be accessible until I re-screw the tail cap. When this glitch occurs, one click on the side-switch in “Turbo” mode will not turn off the light (as it should have), but rather drop the light into “Medium” mode, and holding the light will only going back and forth between the “Medium” <—-> “Low”.

Now the glitch magically disappears, but I cannot say for sure when it will come back and haunt us. I wonder if someone has encountered this glitch before, and how they deal with it.


You just need to clean the battery tube ends and contacts. If there is extra resistance in the circuit it fools the driver into thinking the battery voltage is low. This happens every now and then. I clean the contacts and it’s back to normal. This is common on all boost style drivers.

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Johm
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rngwn wrote:
I wonder if someone has encountered this glitch before, and how they deal with it.

This is how the driver/UI on this light works.

@3.7V you lose turbo and high becomes your new turbo, taking high out of the rotating 3 modes.

@3.4V the same thing happens to high.

This might be a little confusing but when resting Voltage is bellow 3.7 Volts it’s a good time (IMO) to recharge the battery anyway.

The beam profile is far from perfect.
But considering an XHP50.2 is producing it, not bad at all.

Me, I really like the SP33 and cool white is not my thing.

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For a better understanding, how the SP33 boost driver works and how modes will automatically be reduced as the battery's voltage decreases...

Those modes that are surrounded by a dotted line can only by accessed with a double click.

“Everyone, deep in their hearts, is waiting for the end of the world to come.” (Haruki Murakami, 1Q84)

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Ok, that’s clear now. Thanks Wink

 

Searching for High CRI leds since 2010...

 

Has finally gotten to the bottom after 10 years of delving deep into that rabbit hole of them high CRI lights...

 

High CRI, high quality lights doesn't need to be expensive, or is it?

 

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kyfishguy wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
kyfishguy wrote:
Cereal_killer wrote:
The pair of boards are done! !{width:30%}https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.ra...! !{width:30%}https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.ra...! !{width:30%}https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.ra...! !{width:30%}https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.ra...! The switch board will be $3.45 so theres definitely no reason to have to destroy your factory driver and do tons of extra work just to save that...
OK, quick question for the driver folks. I've messaged Dan but he's not around much lately so here goes. Is there any reason this driver wouldn't work with IOS/D4 ramping firmware? I was hoping it would work but it won't even give a flicker except when it rarely seems to ramp a bit or sometimes just gives up turbo for a second. Using IOS ramping on an 85 MCU from RMM, Decent FET, a single 7135, diode on D1, 10uf cap with zener piggyback on C1, 36k pulldown resistor on R4 over by the FET. I can build a working driver on RMM's FET+1 board and these components so what gives? I know it's a hack, don't laugh too hard...
This is out of my knowledge zone, but just to confirm, you switched to a 3v led and loaded a 2 channel driver firmware, right? Hopefully someone with more driver design knowledge will answer you soon.
Correct!

Dang, didn't see this til now. I got these CK drivers and 2 SP33's to mod with them.

Looks like a 3 channel driver, not 2 channel - FET+bank+1. Std 3 chan NarsilM should work. Need a few mins to trace it out. I've used these drivers in a 2 chan config as well, just didn't populate the bank. I modded NarsilM more recently to work on a 3 chan as a 2 chan.

Let me confirm the driver layout by tracing it out....


Yes, confirmed - it's a standard triple channel config, not the 2 channels Ramping IOS was designed for.

Triple channel is a std NarsilM config setting, probably in Anduril as well. Not sure if Ramping IOS supports it -- would have to check... 

Ok, nope, I don't see it, though I only looked at my orig (buggy??) Ramping IOS version... Doubt TK would have a reason to add 3 channel support though.

 

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Jerommel wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
Are the reflector and LED accessible?
Yes, the bezel is just a little on the tight side. The mcpcb looks to be about 24mm and made of copper.
Thanks Jason. Thumbs Up I might want to try a Nichia 144 and a TIR in there.

Has anybody tried a Nichia 144am LED in this light? Looks like it can indeed make a good host for that LED.
I’ve got a Nichia 144am and looking for find a good compact 26650 light for it.

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I recently picked up a Sofirn SP33 and I love many things about it with the exception of the doughnut ring. it’s actually quite disappointing. I see that some have fixed this buy modding the LED emitter itself or even replacing it. I’m definitely not doing that, I got this light to take with me camping but is there any way to just adjust the placement of the emitter and help eliminate this? Is this so common that if I sent the light back to Amazon and requested an exchange the new light would be the exact same with the darker center?

pennzy
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I put diffuser film on mine . Much nicer.

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ChattanoogaDan wrote:
I recently picked up a Sofirn SP33 and I love many things about it with the exception of the doughnut ring.

I don’t even notice this and I use my light daily at work.

Maybe they changed the centering ring height?

If possible, can you take a picture of the centering ring thickness?

Does your reflector have a little bit of orange peel or is it smooth?

I would simply try adding some shims under the centering ring to raise the reflector. Something 1 or 2 pieces of paper thin to start with and see if that helps.

On my L6 with SMO and 70.2 I experimented a lot to get the max distance, but that also created a faint donut hole. I decided to stop chasing throw numbers and just adjust it to what looks best. It was the best choice.

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Maybe someone managed to find a suitable TIR optics for SP33?

Sorry for my poor english.

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.
I’m having an issue with my sp33v2. It won’t turn off completely unless I loosen the tailcap about half a turn. When I press the power button, the light goes out except for a faint glow. I can look directly at the led and see it. The best way to describe it is like a pie cut in 4 equal slices. One of the slices will stay lit until I loosen or remove the tailcap. Like I said, it is very faint.

My first concern is forgetting this extra step and finding a dead battery when I need to use it. My other concern is that this is a sign that my light is defective and failure is imminent.

I bought it in June from sofirn on amazon for about $38 with 26650 and charger. I contacted the seller and got a prompt reply from Zoe. The “engineers” said not to worry, it won’t drain my battery and I can use it “normal”. Zoe said if this wasn’t acceptable, they can send me a new sp33 without battery when they get more in stock.

Has anyone else had this problem? What should I do? It’s a great flashlight. I use it alot and it seems to run forever on a charge. If it won’t drain the battery and continues to function normaly, I can live with the issue. I’m just a casual user, not a collector.

Thanks

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Nudgwink wrote:
.
I’m having an issue with my sp33v2. It won’t turn off completely unless I loosen the tailcap about half a turn. When I press the power button, the light goes out except for a faint glow. I can look directly at the led and see it. The best way to describe it is like a pie cut in 4 equal slices. One of the slices will stay lit until I loosen or remove the tailcap. Like I said, it is very faint.

My first concern is forgetting this extra step and finding a dead battery when I need to use it. My other concern is that this is a sign that my light is defective and failure is imminent.

I bought it in June from sofirn on amazon for about $38 with 26650 and charger. I contacted the seller and got a prompt reply from Zoe. The “engineers” said not to worry, it won’t drain my battery and I can use it “normal”. Zoe said if this wasn’t acceptable, they can send me a new sp33 without battery when they get more in stock.

Has anyone else had this problem? What should I do? It’s a great flashlight. I use it alot and it seems to run forever on a charge. If it won’t drain the battery and continues to function normaly, I can live with the issue. I’m just a casual user, not a collector.

Thanks


This happens from time to time with other lights using the xhp50.2 and 70.2. It may or may not be a problem. If you have a DMM you can check the parasitic drain. If it’s low, it’s no big deal, if it’s high it might drain the battery quicker than normal.

Do you know how to measure it? You set your test leads to the amperage or current posts, then set your meter to mA or uA then remove tail cap. Put one probe on battery negative and other on the bare aluminum threads or end of battery tube. Wait 5 seconds just to make sure the mcu is sleeping (depends on model of flashlight) and tell us the reading.

My readings for this light: Parasitic drain is 121 microamps/0.12 milliamps which is about 4.7 years to drain a 5000mah cell. If your readings are under one milliamp you should be pretty good. 1mA is a bit high, but should still last 208 days. I bet yours is way under 1mA. I’ve seen other lights have a glowing die and the drain was almost stock. Crazy, but true.

A good rule of thumb is if your not gonna be using the light for a few days/weeks, etc… just give the tail cap a quarter turn to cut the battery connection.

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Nudgwink
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JasonWW wrote:

Do you know how to measure it? You set your test leads to the amperage or current posts, then set your meter to mA or uA then remove tail cap. Put one probe on battery negative and other on the bare aluminum threads or end of battery tube. Wait 5 seconds just to make sure the mcu is sleeping (depends on model of flashlight) and tell us the reading.

My readings for this light: Parasitic drain is 121 microamps/0.12 milliamps which is about 4.7 years to drain a 5000mah cell. If your readings are under one milliamp you should be pretty good. 1mA is a bit high, but should still last 208 days. I bet yours is way under 1mA. I’ve seen other lights have a glowing die and the drain was almost stock. Crazy, but true.

Thank you for the info. Good to hear this isn’t uncommon. Also good to know the seller was honest and still willing to replace my light if I wasn’t satisfied.

I have a cheapo harbor freght multimeter. Not sure how accurate it is is or if I have it set correctly. It’s a Centech 92020. First result from google has the manual. I set the dial to the top right position. I have the black lead in bottom (com) jack. Red lead in the center (mA) jack. Black lead touching battery negative. Red lead touching bare metal end of the tube. The reading is 00.1 each time I touch and 00.0 when not. So am I doing this right?

JasonWW
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Sounds correct. Try the switch position on the 200u or 2000u position. This should give better accuracy.

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I tried the 200µ and 2000µ positions, but my miltimeter doesn’t give a reading. Just shows 000.

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Nudgwink wrote:
I tried the 200µ and 2000µ positions, but my miltimeter doesn’t give a reading. Just shows 000.

Hmm, seems strange, but it might just be due to the meters quality. IDK.

Anyway, it seems to show 0.1mA so that would be from 0.121 (stock drain) up to 0.199. So if it’s accurate, your drain is still close to stock. At about 0.2mA you would get roughly 2.85 years with a fully charged 5,000mah battery. You should be fine.

You could use the glowing die to see if the tail cap is locked out or not.

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Anyone else experiencing UI gremlins with this light? Mine sometimes loses turbo when the battery voltage reads above 4 volts. Other times it won’t cycle between levels until the tail cap is unscrewed and retightened .

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pennzy wrote:
Anyone else experiencing UI gremlins with this light? Mine sometimes loses turbo when the battery voltage reads above 4 volts. Other times it won’t cycle between levels until the tail cap is unscrewed and retightened .

You might have some dirt on the battery tube end and the matching contact on the tail cap. The dirt adds resistance. Clean those and it should work fine again.

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pennzy wrote:
Anyone else experiencing UI gremlins with this light? Mine sometimes loses turbo when the battery voltage reads above 4 volts. Other times it won’t cycle between levels until the tail cap is unscrewed and retightened .

I experience the loss of the turbo mode, occasionally. I have no idea what volts the battery is at, as I have no way to measure it. But, the battery always has a solid green level on the indicator button. I usually loosen the tail cap and re-tighten it, and I am back in business. Sometimes I have to remove the battery and I wipe down both ends of the battery for it to work again. One time it was stuck in moonlight mode, until I removed the battery, that was only once.

I don’t know how to get the SP33 V2 fixed, or replaced by Sofirn. I have had the torch for a few months, so I might be out of warranty. I love my Sofirns, though this one is a little quirky. Been thinking about getting the V3 model.

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Jason, I’ll give that a try again but I think I did that once before. Mine sounds like Swabs. Also probably had it too long for warranty but only used it a little and was that way from the start.

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There is no reason I should be getting dirt or dust on the contact area, as the torch is waterproof and dust proof. I only use the SP33 V2 around the house, and walks around the neighborhood, and I don’t live in a dusty or windy area.

So, I cannot figure out why I have to occasionally remove the battery and wipe it down, or loosen and re-tighten the tail cap. This does not happen on any other light I own that get used the same way. All this, and the one time it was stuck in moonlight mode tells me something might be faulty with an internal component.

It’s a great light when working properly, but I would like a replacement or warranty work done. I just don’t know how to get help, if it’s even possible at this point.

My Future's So Bright...well, my flashlights are anyways.

strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE! strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE!

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I use mine daily and I’m always mechanically locking it out at the end of the day. The aluminum rubbing together against the tail cap just seems to build up something. Maybe aluminum powder? Mine will act funny maybe every 2 months. I clean the contact and it’s fine again.

You may have a different issue.

You loose Turbo at 3.70 volts, but the indicator will still glow green until you get to 3.40 volts.

Boost driver lights do work a bit different than most people are used to. They are much more voltage sensitive so any type extra resistance on the battery ends, springs, tail cap, etc… can effect it. They don’t like protected cells, high drain is preferable.

Stuck on moonlight mode seems pretty strange. I’ve never had that happen. The battery wasn’t super low, under 2.8v, was it?

You might be able to order a new driver, you’d have to ask Sofirn. It’s a bit tricky to pop the driver out, but not too bad. It’s basically a $20 light, so it may not make sense to buy a new driver. It depends on how much the driver would cost.

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JasonWW wrote:
…Stuck on moonlight mode seems pretty strange. I’ve never had that happen. The battery wasn’t super low, under 2.8v, was it?

You might be able to order a new driver, you’d have to ask Sofirn. It’s a bit tricky to pop the driver out, but not too bad. It’s basically a $20 light, so it may not make sense to buy a new driver. It depends on how much the driver would cost.

The battery on my SP33 V2 has never gotten lower than the flashing green indicator. At that point I recharge the battery. But, I don’t know what the volts are when the green light flashes. The time the light was stuck on moonlight, the green light was solid. I remember because I went through the process of elimination, or should I say process of illumination LOL.

Yeah, the flashlight is not worth putting any money into it to fix. And, sending it back to Sofirn would cost me close to the purchase price, I would imagine. I might have gotten one of the lemons from the bunch.

Do you think it would be worth contacting Sofirn to see if they would give a discount on a SP33 V3? What is their contact info?

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strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE! strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE!

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Swabs wrote:

Do you think it would be worth contacting Sofirn to see if they would give a discount on a SP33 V3? What is their contact info?

I dont know.
Sofirn has a account here on BLF.

You can also contact them through their Aliexpress store.

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Clean the end cap contacts with something lightly abrasive like fine sandpaper or scrubbing pad

Just a light brush or two

And make sure the tailcap spring has good contact

If that doesnt work contact their us email

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Thank you JasonWW, and Bearbreeder.

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strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE! strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE!

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pennzy wrote:
Anyone else experiencing UI gremlins with this light? Mine sometimes loses turbo when the battery voltage reads above 4 volts.

I think the problem is the battery voltage drop in the turbo (high current). I would not rely heavily on the indication of the button. It seems to me that it is worth checking the operation of the flashlight with high-current batteries, I’m sure the problem will disappear.

Sorry for my poor english.

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Di_Joker wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Anyone else experiencing UI gremlins with this light? Mine sometimes loses turbo when the battery voltage reads above 4 volts.

I think the problem is the battery voltage drop in the turbo (high current). I would not rely heavily on the indication of the button. It seems to me that it is worth checking the operation of the flashlight with high-current batteries, I’m sure the problem will disappear.

I think it happens with all batteries with mine. I have the Shocli 5500, the Sofirn 5500 and the VapeCell 5500, all newish. I cleaned mine again last night and I will see how it acts. It’s hard to tell because it works fine until it doesn’t.
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I received a reply from Sofirn. I guess they are saying there is nothing wrong or defective? It is operating as designed? I get no turbo at all on occasion, not even a lower brightness. Fidget with the light a bit, and I have full turbo again. So I don’t understand why they are telling me, that what I am experiencing is normal . I am more confused, actually.

I copied and pasted their full exact reply here:

“Hi Richard (Swabs), thank you for contacting.

Please note that the Turbo mode can only be acticated when the battery is full of juice. Green side indicator doesn’t mean it’s ful of power.

It’s kind of design. Not defective. But good news it, the design is changed. You can have Turbo even when the battery power is not ful, but the brightness is lower caused by the lower current from the battery.

Regards,

Sofirn”

My Future's So Bright...well, my flashlights are anyways.

strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE! strobe me, strobe me. STROBE! STROBE!

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