[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies E07 7* Nichia/ SST20/ XP-L HI Emitters 21700 Flashlight Group Buy -【 New Copper+Titanium 】

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twisted raven
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DB Custom wrote:
Full copper vs Ti/Cu….

The Titanium almost acts as a thermal blanket or shield to protect the cell from intense heat of the 4 emitters, the copper pill will absorb and radiate heat allowing the emitters to run efficiently but the Ti body/battery tube won’t readily absorb this heat, effectively keeping the cell as cool as possible while the light delivers optimum output.

Whereas, a full copper build will pull heat all the way to the tail, surrounding the cell in heat and possibly causing damage or a dangerous situation to the Li-ion cell inside. Yes, it will pull more heat from the emitters, but it pulls it to the dangerous cell within… not a good compromise in my book. And I am probably the biggest advocate for the use of copper on this forum…

As an aside, the Ti battery tube will remain much more comfortable in hand than a full copper build, which would get too hot too hold in short order.

You’re assuming people are going to use the light exclusively in turbo or very high outputs. I’m also assuming 90% of use case will probably be below 500 lumens. The other 10% will be showing off to friends with a 10 second turbo blast.

woodyt
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Interested ti/cu

Rat_Racer
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Ti/Cu interested.

vresto
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Why so many of you love this flashlight? Its just cos the output?

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

BlueSwordM
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Not only the output.

It has a very good user interface(Anduril), has access to high CRI LEDs(SST-20 4000k and Nichia 219B), has 21700 support, an excellent design, AUX LEDs, etc.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

vit55
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Interested ti/cu thanks.

noboneshotdog
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vresto wrote:
Why so many of you love this flashlight? Its just cos the output?

Yup!

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

mortuus
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vresto wrote:
Why so many of you love this flashlight? Its just cos the output?

well ask yourself why the emisar d4 became so popular ? same with this, nice looking light ( the clear anodize is very pretty ) nice ui, tint options etc and u have a winner. i have the sst20 4000k, so not really that much higer then my d4/d4s, but i got it because i like the looks and i got a reason to buy first 21700 light.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

SKY69
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Count me in for one please

Newlumen
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vresto wrote:
Why so many of you love this flashlight? Its just cos the output?

Yeap. Measured 7100 lumen @ turn on, using 21700.

DB Custom
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I don’t assume anything.

There is no way I can speak for what anyone will do with such a light as this, but it has 7 emitters and can produce a lot of heat, better to keep that heat away from the cell if possible.

Mine makes 10,000 lumens, I don’t want a copper tube in my hand under this level of power so I speak to this end. It doesn’t require full Turbo to get hot, anyway… and besides, I may make this one do more than the last one. Wink

chinooker
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To what end? Others might not want or need that extreme level and could enjoy the copper tube.

Newlumen
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Can someone tell me how to set thermal temp limit.. i want to make it higher. I dont like to read manual.

Lund1660
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Ti cu interested

iamlucky13
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Newlumen wrote:
Can someone tell me how to set thermal temp limit.. i want to make it higher. I dont like to read manual.

The manual really is pretty well laid out, and a good supplement to the graphic:
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea...

Thermal config is under blinky modes, starting at line 74. It might seem complex, but each step is very simple.

From off:

  • Triple click to enter blinky modes (starts at battery check)
  • Double-click to sunset mode
  • Double-click to beacon mode
  • Double-click to temp-check mode (will blink out the current temperature)
  • Click 4 times rapidly to enter thermal config

Light will blink once, signaling temperature calibration, then start “buzzing” or blinking rapidly. If you want to set the ambient room temperature (do this when the light is cool), while it is “buzzing,” click the number in degrees Celsius (eg – 21 degrees C or 70 degrees F, click 21 times).

When done, or if you want to skip temperature calibration, wait for the “buzz” to stop. Light will blink twice, signaling temperature limit, then start “buzzing” again. Click N times to set the maximum temperature as N + 30 degrees C, then wait for the “buzzing” to stop. So if you want 55 C, click 25 times.

Nicolicous
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Freeme can you please ask Neal to ship my ORDER #2294

It’s been sitting there for a month now and no reply to my message.

Nico

Nico -.-

djozz
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Nicolicous wrote:
Freeme can you please ask Neal to ship my ORDER #2294

It’s been sitting there for a month now and no reply to my message.

Nico


That is because he shipped mine first Silly
(sorry, could not resist that Wink . I think that Neal has been selling the E07 and the GT Micro for more than a month without actually having stock. They are seeping in from the manufacturer now and who compains first gets their lights shipped. I complained first. Facepalm )

A possible positive side of having to wait is that maybe you (and hopefully I too already) will recieve the updated version of the E07.

Nicolicous
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Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Tired Tired Tired Tired Tired Tired Tired Tired Tired Tired

Nico -.-

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djozz wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:
Freeme can you please ask Neal to ship my ORDER #2294

It’s been sitting there for a month now and no reply to my message.

Nico


That is because he shipped mine first Silly
(sorry, could not resist that Wink . I think that Neal has been selling the E07 and the GT Micro for more than a month without actually having stock. They are seeping in from the manufacturer now and who compains first gets their lights shipped. I complained first. Facepalm )

A possible positive side of having to wait is that maybe you (and hopefully I too already) will recieve the updated version of the E07.

Momma always said: “the squeaky wheel get’s the grease!”

Newlumen
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iamlucky13 wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Can someone tell me how to set thermal temp limit.. i want to make it higher. I dont like to read manual.

The manual really is pretty well laid out, and a good supplement to the graphic:
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea...

Thermal config is under blinky modes, starting at line 74. It might seem complex, but each step is very simple.

From off:

  • Triple click to enter blinky modes (starts at battery check)
  • Double-click to sunset mode
  • Double-click to beacon mode
  • Double-click to temp-check mode (will blink out the current temperature)
  • Click 4 times rapidly to enter thermal config

Light will blink once, signaling temperature calibration, then start “buzzing” or blinking rapidly. If you want to set the ambient room temperature (do this when the light is cool), while it is “buzzing,” click the number in degrees Celsius (eg – 21 degrees C or 70 degrees F, click 21 times).

When done, or if you want to skip temperature calibration, wait for the “buzz” to stop. Light will blink twice, signaling temperature limit, then start “buzzing” again. Click N times to set the maximum temperature as N + 30 degrees C, then wait for the “buzzing” to stop. So if you want 55 C, click 25 times.

Thanks. Will try tonight.

mortuus
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Nicolicous wrote:
Freeme can you please ask Neal to ship my ORDER #2294

It’s been sitting there for a month now and no reply to my message.

Nico

wow thats strange, he shipped mine quickly and responded fast when i asked which models he had in stock..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

SKY69
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Interested in Copper/Titanium XPL-Hi 5000K

Newlumen
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iamlucky13 wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Can someone tell me how to set thermal temp limit.. i want to make it higher. I dont like to read manual.

The manual really is pretty well laid out, and a good supplement to the graphic:
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea...

Thermal config is under blinky modes, starting at line 74. It might seem complex, but each step is very simple.

From off:

  • Triple click to enter blinky modes (starts at battery check)
  • Double-click to sunset mode
  • Double-click to beacon mode
  • Double-click to temp-check mode (will blink out the current temperature)
  • Click 4 times rapidly to enter thermal config

Light will blink once, signaling temperature calibration, then start “buzzing” or blinking rapidly. If you want to set the ambient room temperature (do this when the light is cool), while it is “buzzing,” click the number in degrees Celsius (eg – 21 degrees C or 70 degrees F, click 21 times).

When done, or if you want to skip temperature calibration, wait for the “buzz” to stop. Light will blink twice, signaling temperature limit, then start “buzzing” again. Click N times to set the maximum temperature as N + 30 degrees C, then wait for the “buzzing” to stop. So if you want 55 C, click 25 times.

Its little complicated. I think i got it by watching matt video.

3 clicks, 2 clicks, 2 clicks, 2 clicks, 4 clicks.

14 clicks. My room temp is 58 fahrenheit.
25 clicks.

Right ? It doesnt step down like it used to be.

Light
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Does anyone know the release date? I was told the 25th of March by Jack. Also, will it be available from the ff-light.com store, or somewhere else?

jojosupir
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Any update on the cu + ti e07?Anybody?

Ekstasis
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I am interested in copper and titanium body, I would prefer black or grey body, it would look good with the copper head.
Anyway I am mot sure which emitter I want yet, there is a lot of fanboyism, people buy nichia and not even considering the other option.

for 4000k options the fact is still CREE XPL HI V2 5A offer superior thermal performance, it does not heat up as fast as sst20 or nichia options. Also the CREE XPL HI V2 5A option gives 2000 more lumens over sst20 and nichia.

Not sure about the CRI rating on the CREE XPL HI V2 5A, but considering better thermal performance and a lot higher lumen output it might be worth to sacrifice some CRI, I am not even sure how much it will be noticeable in reality. The big difference in lumpen output difference might be more noticeable then the CRI difference.

the E07 has been the hottest flashlight for months now yet there is very little pictures of beamshots etc, I am surprised not a flasholoic have done a camparison yet comparing all emitter options, with beamshots, and mesrements how much throw and candela and lumen and thermal performance.

E07 biggest weakness is thermal problems, so it makes a lot more sense to sacrifice CRI to choose the CREE XPL HI V2 5A option.
But I still want to know more about the emitter to compare it.

I want to see the difference in candela, cause I use a lot indoors, I think my Manker MK14 is kind of perfect for that but lumen output could be more powerful and little bit more throw so maybe SST20 and Cree 4000k options will give better balance between flood and throw but I need to see with my own eyes before I decide, cause the 219C is very good to lit up indoor rooms, I simply just want see how big the difference is, so I am disspointed to see there is no one who have done compariosn, cause 99% of all people buy the nichia model because of the high CRI number, both nicha and sst20 have big thermal problems compared to the CREE options, and the lumen output is about 40% worse.

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Well, it’s actually hard to notice a difference between 4000 and 6000 lumens due to how the eye works.

It’s super easy to notice a difference between a high CRI emitter and a low CRI emitter.
It’s absolutely amazing the 1st time you see it, especially outside.

Low CRI LEDs like the XP-L HI will make everything look flat, but something like the 219C, and especially the SST-20/219B will make everything look absolutely gorgeous like the late afternoon sunlight.

Also, the difference in brightness between the 4000k 95CRI SST-20 and XP-L HI 70CRI might not be as apparent since the SST-20 is a very throwy little LED, so it won’t be as disadvantaged as you might think.

Then again, if you want maximum throw and the same amount of heat as the XP-L HI, just get the SST-20 5000k.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Ekstasis
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Well, it’s actually hard to notice a difference between 4000 and 6000 lumens due to how the eye works.

It’s super easy to notice a difference between a high CRI emitter and a low CRI emitter.
It’s absolutely amazing the 1st time you see it, especially outside.

Low CRI LEDs like the XP-L HI will make everything look flat, but something like the 219C, and especially the SST-20/219B will make everything look absolutely gorgeous like the late afternoon sunlight.

Also, the difference in brightness between the 4000k 95CRI SST-20 and XP-L HI 70CRI might not be as apparent since the SST-20 is a very throwy little LED, so it won’t be as disadvantaged as you might think.

Then again, if you want maximum throw and the same amount of heat as the XP-L HI, just get the SST-20 5000k.

Well My experience with flashlights is kind of limited, but I can use my Manker E14 II as reference, it has the nichia 219C, I really like the flood of it, for such candela value you really need atleast 4000 lumens to get kind of more throw.

Yes I always wanted to know more about it, why the eye would not notice 2000 Lumen difference, considering my E14 II is about 2000 lumens it feels hard to consider that I would not notice such increase, or do you mean I will mostly notice it in throw and not such much in the nearfield ?

Yes I understand the importance of CRI, I guess I will have to invest more research in finding the difference between CRI 70 and CRI 95.

With the E07 the reality is that it will throttle down a lot in lumens, so the CREE alternatives will give more headroom, so when the SST20 and nichia will go down about 1300 lumens while the Cree will not step down as low, you have to consider this also, before worshiping CRI only, its all about balance the benifits and drawbacks. That is what I dont like so much with choosing the CRI options that you will end up with a flashlight that will only deliver half of the turbo capacity for most of the time. Maybe some one had done a review of the CREE emitters and can tell us how much is it will step down with the E07.

BlueSwordM
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That’s the nice thing about the SST-20 though.

It is a super throwy emitter. In fact, for the same light output, it throws 30% better.

And since the XP-L HI throws much farther than the 219C, you can see that the SST-20 throws light much farther than the 219C.

Believe me, the difference is amazing in terms of throw, meaning you don’t have to push the brightness as hard to see stuff, meaning you don’t have as much of a stepdown.

I mean, the Nichia 219C Emisar D4S had 20kcd.
The SST-20 95CRI Emisar D4S has 41kcd.

That is a massive difference.

In contrast, the E14 II is not a very efficient light, and is super floody.

The E07 in contrast, with an SST-20, will throw much farther.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Ekstasis
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BlueSwordM wrote:
That’s the nice thing about the SST-20 though.

It is a super throwy emitter. In fact, for the same light output, it throws 30% better.

And since the XP-L HI throws much farther than the 219C, you can see that the SST-20 throws light much farther than the 219C.

Believe me, the difference is amazing in terms of throw, meaning you don’t have to push the brightness as hard to see stuff, meaning you don’t have as much of a stepdown.

I mean, the Nichia 219C Emisar D4S had 20kcd.
The SST-20 95CRI Emisar D4S has 41kcd.

That is a massive difference.

In contrast, the E14 II is not a very efficient light, and is super floody.

The E07 in contrast, with an SST-20, will throw much farther.

Well I did very recently understand the difference between candela and lumens, this is the biggest misunderstanding with flashlights usually…well I am glad I did find out about it, it really helps me understand more how to choose a flashlight and what to look for.
I am yet to navigate and find the optimal candela value for me, I really like the 180 degree of light that the E14 Puts out, it feels a lot like there is a lightbuld from abouve that light up the area, I also like the beam is very steady, I have the flashlight in my belt since I work as security card, so I do not hold the flashlight in my head, but when I walk there is always constant movements, but because the candela value of the E14 II the beam is very steady, compared to my Sorfirn SF36W with higher candela value the beam will move like crazy for every footsteep I take which is very irritating. I hope the Candela Value of of both SST20 and the Cree 4000 K option with twice the candela value will still be as floody that the beam will not move like crazy when I walk with it clipped to my belt.

so Yes flood is probably most important for me as work as security work cause I work a lot indoors, but outside the E14II and 219C could really need the 30% extra of the SST20 for sure.

and yes the 219B-V1 is 45000K, after been using E14 II with 219C which is 4500K aswell I have conluded that 4000K is probably the sweetspoot for me (I have tried 3000K now with the Sorfirn SF36W and my conclusion is probably its too warm for my taste)

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