【convoy】OP reflector for M21C/M26C,12groups xhp70.2 driver for one cell,available now

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Simon Mao
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maukka wrote:
Simon, I just received two C8+ with 219C 4000K from you. Please fix the driver on them. Toykeeper will explain what’s wrong.

They have visible PWM on moonlight and all the other modes use a wrong PWM frequency as well. This also makes the configuration mode advance way too fast and have too fast a strobe.

https://imgur.com/a/XqfMM4f

Also, the tint on those emitters is pretty bad. Worst 219C I have personally seen with a duv of 0.0075 on one and 0.0049 on the other. The focus of the reflector is also very different on my two samples.

Any of this doesn’t matter to me personally since these are just going to be a throwier light for calibration of spheres, but someone who actually uses them might not like what they see.

thanks for you data,manufacturer told me that he use ATTINY13A,
he will try 25V,

is it possible to test one more time if you remove the ar-coated glass lens?

and what is the full name of Duv? i want to learn more

ToyKeeper
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Simon Mao wrote:
i will send these data to driver manufacturer

manufacturer told me that he use ATTINY13A,
he will try 25V,

I don’t know the details of your situation or your manufacturer, but if you would like newer or nicer drivers, we can probably arrange something. BLF’s two-channel design works well and provides a wide range of output. It could be FET+AMC7135 or 7×7135+1×7135, or it could even use FET+7+1. It depends on how high the high modes should go.

For clicky-switch lights, people seem to like Bistro, Crescendo, and gchart’s ramping UI.

For e-switch lights, if you use an attiny85v MCU, it could run any UI in the FSM suite. The most popular one is Anduril, but it’s also easy to make new UIs. It could be anything you like.

The new Convoy headlamp looks very nice. Depending on your needs and your driver, the headlamp might be a good place to try FSM.

Anyway, there are many possibilities. We should talk in a private message or email if you are interested in trying something new.

TheOnlyDocc
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Thumbs Up for the H1. Looks nice. But i hope you will work something out with ToyKeeper. Would be really nice to see a attiny85v based driver with Anduril! @Simon Mao Do you have more information on the frosted lens (light transmittance . . .)?

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skinny_tie
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
i will send these data to driver manufacturer

manufacturer told me that he use ATTINY13A,
he will try 25V,

I don’t know the details of your situation or your manufacturer, but if you would like newer or nicer drivers, we can probably arrange something. BLF’s two-channel design works well and provides a wide range of output. It could be FET+AMC7135 or 7×7135+1×7135, or it could even use FET+7+1. It depends on how high the high modes should go.

For clicky-switch lights, people seem to like Bistro, Crescendo, and gchart’s ramping UI.

For e-switch lights, if you use an attiny85v MCU, it could run any UI in the FSM suite. The most popular one is Anduril, but it’s also easy to make new UIs. It could be anything you like.

The new Convoy headlamp looks very nice. Depending on your needs and your driver, the headlamp might be a good place to try FSM.

Anyway, there are many possibilities. We should talk in a private message or email if you are interested in trying something new.

Using ToyKeeper’s firmware (either Bistro or something FSM-based) in the new models would give them some of the best UIs available and a huge advantage over the competition (at least those that aren’t also using TK’s firmware). A triple-channel driver at a convoy price would be great too.

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skinny_tie wrote:
Using ToyKeeper’s firmware (either Bistro or something FSM-based) …

FWIW, the S2+ and C8 already use Biscotti, which is a slimmed-down copy of Bistro. But there were some issues and miscommunications back in 2016, so some buggy drivers were produced. I thought that had all been straightened out long ago, but maukka got an affected light just this week… so I guess not. I’m hoping we can find a way to finally resolve everything. … and if possible, it’d be nice to do some upgrades too.

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Quote:
some buggy drivers were produced

Not some. I have bought a few Convoy lights over the last years and have not seen a “fixed” biscotti driver in any of them, i.e. the desert tan S2+ that came out more than 1.5 years after the bug was discovered did not have a fixed driver.

Unfortunayely however fantastic the Convoy flashlights are (I’m a huge fan of them), it seems that Simon’s expertise and his interest is not the driver and that is a real drawback. He is offered help from BLF, you were doing a great job helping him with biscotti TK, but then he does not recognise the problems with the wrong fuse in the thousands of lights that he sells and moreover does nothing to fix it but decides that the drivers work good enough with the bug (IMO they don’t) Sad

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This should work good with eliminating the donut hole in OP/SMO reflectors with leds like the Luxeon MZ or a Nichia E21 quad Evil . Very exited. But it looks heavily frosted compared to the Zebralight lenses, I don’t know if this is on purpose.

@Simon if you have the chance to buy 3500K SST-20 emitters, certainly do it. From what I recall they have a rosy tint, combined with the not overly warm (white is still mostly white) CCT and high CRI and R9 this led could have a 219B light quality.

Convoy lights are mostly used by non-flashoholic people or muggles, however you want to call them, so the UI should be simple, Anduril would we way over the top. However I would love to see a Andurill “Lite”, scaled down to the simplicity of the RampingIosV2 but remaining the advantages it has over it.

virence.com Nichia E21A 3000K + 4000K mix Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K

 

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If you remove the throw with a frosted lens, you also don’t need a 40mm reflector, the beam will be the same from a much smaller S2+ with a frosted lens. Only in specific illumination it is still handy because the shadows that this light casts are a bit softer than from a narrower light source.

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@djozz
Could the frosted lens help to smooth the artifacts from a 3V XHP50?

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djozz wrote:
Quote:
some buggy drivers were produced

Not some. I have bought a few Convoy lights over the last years and have not seen a “fixed” biscotti driver in any of them, i.e. the desert tan S2+ that came out more than 1.5 years after the bug was discovered did not have a fixed driver.

Unfortunayely however fantastic the Convoy flashlights are (I’m a huge fan of them), it seems that Simon’s expertise and his interest is not the driver and that is a real drawback. He is offered help from BLF, you were doing a great job helping him with biscotti TK, but then he does not recognise the problems with the wrong fuse in the thousands of lights that he sells and moreover does nothing to fix it but decides that the drivers work good enough with the bug (IMO they don’t) Sad

I’ve bought some S2+ which did have an improved Biscotti driver (slower flashes when in config mode), so something was improved! I don’t need all the complicated settings, so I often bought the simpler 3/5 mode drivers, which have one big disadvantage: the audible squeal. It should have a higher PWM frequency, or twice as low! Now it resonates in the springs…

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^ thanks for the information Convoylover, so Simon did improve the biscotti driver at some point.

Question for Simon then now: if I buy spare biscotti drivers in your aliexpress store at this moment, can I be sure that they have the fixed software?

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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
@djozz
Could the frosted lens help to smooth the artifacts from a 3V XHP50?

This frosted lens looks like it will smooth out anything.
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djozz wrote:
TheOnlyDocc wrote:
@djozz Could the frosted lens help to smooth the artifacts from a 3V XHP50?
This frosted lens looks like it will smooth out anything.

Including a lot of lumens. I think it’s too much.

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djozz wrote:
If you remove the throw with a frosted lens, you also don’t need a 40mm reflector, the beam will be the same from a much smaller S2+ with a frosted lens. Only in specific illumination it is still handy because the shadows that this light casts are a bit softer than from a narrower light source.

Technically, not only for casting soft shadows, but to have the C8+‘s better heatsinking ability compared to S2+, it is very useful to have a frosted lens in front of the reflector (if someone goes for a bit more powerful flooder).

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djozz wrote:
^ thanks for the information Convoylover, so Simon did improve the biscotti driver at some point.

Question for Simon then now: if I buy spare biscotti drivers in your aliexpress store at this moment, can I be sure that they have the fixed software?

I’ve noticed that Convoy’s Biscotti driver are locked (to prevent flashing), and some people already mentioned to make a cut with a knife on some pin number. I’ve tried doing the cut on a Biscotti driver, but still couldn’t flash successfully — it could be my “cut” wasn’t deep enough though.

I was wondering, if these bare Biscotti drivers can be fixed with a reflash?

May I ask which Biscotti .hex file to use for re-flashing affected Biscotti drivers (since I now have a few Convoys with Biscotti drivers) and fix the fuse issues or timing issues, if that’s possible?

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Simon Mao wrote:
Agro wrote:
Simon, I love that H1:
  • knowing your lights – good quality
  • knowing your lights – superb value
  • moonlight
  • always starting low

I’d rather skip the strobe altogether, might be accidentally activated while changing modes.
And High CRI would be a nice option.

There was a big gap in the market below Skilhunt H03 and you’re the perfect maker to bridge that gap.
And 18350 tube is just a superb addition.

How much does H1 weigh?

71g not including the battery or clip


Thanks for the info.

Though that’s a disappointing one. Please let me explain…
Most of my friends who actually use flashlights are backpackers. They tend to pick headlamps. Always plastic ones; Black Diamond, Petzl and such. Sometimes I try to convince them to get something brigher, more efficient, with better tint, tougher, with more battery….and I always fail because even 92 g of Skilhunt H03 with 18650 cell is a lot for them. Similarly skinny light with 18350 would have a chance. And one that allows to pick tube size – even more so. I see that H1 with 18350 will weigh roughly as much as Skilhunt H03 with 18650. I see little reason to use 18350 then…

Also – I’m a backpacker myself. And a weight weenie on top of that. I have quite a few uses for H1 even as it is now (most importantly: a worklight, after putting a TIR in it) but it won’t become my ultimate headlamp; there will still be significant uses where it’s just too heavy.

Anyway I fully expect that H1 will be on my list of lights worth recommending – but not to everyone. Significantly – not to most of my friends.

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d_t_a wrote:

I was wondering, if these bare Biscotti drivers can be fixed with a reflash?

May I ask which Biscotti .hex file to use for re-flashing affected Biscotti drivers (since I now have a few Convoys with Biscotti drivers) and fix the fuse issues or timing issues, if that’s possible?


Yes. Just cut pin 5 and reflash it as usual.

I just bite the chip leg off the board

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d_t_a wrote:
May I ask which Biscotti .hex file to use for re-flashing affected Biscotti drivers (since I now have a few Convoys with Biscotti drivers) and fix the fuse issues or timing issues, if that’s possible?
The one from Toykeeper’s Repository. (She’s the author Smile )
Edited: Corrected by TK in the next post.
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Marc E wrote:
d_t_a wrote:
May I ask which Biscotti .hex file to use for re-flashing affected Biscotti drivers (since I now have a few Convoys with Biscotti drivers) and fix the fuse issues or timing issues, if that’s possible?
The one from Toykeeper’s Repository. (She’s the author Smile )

I’m not sure the copy in trunk is calibrated correctly for Convoy’s drivers. Each flavor of driver has slightly different calibration values. The one I sent Simon is in the Convoy branch instead. However, it’s otherwise generally recommended to use trunk whenever possible, since it’s kept more up to date than individual product branches. It just might not have the calibration values set right for individual products. Those values are still only approximations though, and it’s ideal to measure each driver individually with the tools in the battcheck/ directory if you want things to be exact.

TL;DR: It should work, but the LVP activation point might not be quite right and the battcheck mode might be a little off.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m not sure the copy in trunk is calibrated correctly for Convoy’s drivers.
Lucky i messed up the URL then. Facepalm Cheers for the correction and info Smile
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I did this a while back with some free diffuser samples. Works well with the L2 because it has a fairly thick lip on the reflector to hold it in place.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, the S2+ and C8 already use Biscotti, which is a slimmed-down copy of Bistro. But there were some issues and miscommunications back in 2016, so some buggy drivers were produced. I thought that had all been straightened out long ago, but maukka got an affected light just this week… so I guess not. I’m hoping we can find a way to finally resolve everything. … and if possible, it’d be nice to do some upgrades too.

In my opinion Biscotti is what elevates the Convoy C8 and S2+ from great hosts to great lights that I happily recommend to non flashoholics. I’ve used a few Convoy Biscotti purchased from Banggood drivers myself and I haven’t had a bad one yet.

I’d rally like to thank you ToyKeeper for making your firmware freely available. The majority of my lights are running Biscotti, Bistro, or Anduril and I don’t think I would have got into the hobby if it wasn’t for the BLF drivers and your firmware.

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Simon Mao wrote:

and what is the full name of Duv? i want to learn more

The axes of the CIE 1960 colorspace are labeled “u” and “v”. Duv is “delta uv”, or the distance between two coordinates. As used in maukka’s reports, it’s the distance from the blackbody line at the correlated color temperature of the light to the actual color coordinate of the light, or more simply, how red or green the light is.

More than +/- 0.005 is a very large Duv – very obviously red or green, easily noticed even without comparison to another light source. A positive Duv is green, and a negative Duv is red. +0.0075 as seen with this C8/219C sample is extremely green such that the color of everything illuminated with it will appear distorted despite the high CRI.

Almost nobody here likes light that is very green. Some people like light that is noticeably red (and seek out rare LEDs like the Nichia 219B sw45k to get it), but almost everyone will be happy with light that is purely white (Duv less than +/- 0.001).

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Simon Mao wrote:
long press for off,and single click to change mode strobe(double-click the switch)

I hate this UI. I find it difficult to understand why anybody would design a UI like this.

The biggest problem is that changing modes too quickly results in strobe. Accidental strobe is no fun at all, especially if you’re trying to switch from medium to low, so you click the button again quickly after you get high. The combination of a single click to change modes and a double-click as a shortcut to anything is bad, but especially bad if it’s strobe.

Long-press for off also tends to confuse people. If I had a light to someone without giving instructions, they will expect a single press of the button to turn it on, and another press to turn it off. There’s a reason Thrunite, Olight, Acebeam, Emisar, Haikelite, and the popular open source firmwares for e-switches (Narsil and Anduril) all have roughly the same behavior:

  • Single-click: on/off
  • Long-press from off: lowest mode
  • Long-press from on: change brightness
  • Double-click: highest mode

Simon, I imagine you’re buying drivers with this firmware already on them, but do you have any way to get a different user interface on them? This one is very bad.

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Do i understand it right. The sideswitch on the H1 has no led behind it?
Why not?
To make the reflector cavity compatible to use TIR optics sound like a very good idea!
This would allow people to change it from throw to flood like they prefer.
And the use of a TIR would allow me to mod the H1 with a TIR backlight like i did with my H03.

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Simon Mao
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djozz wrote:
^ thanks for the information Convoylover, so Simon did improve the biscotti driver at some point.

Question for Simon then now: if I buy spare biscotti drivers in your aliexpress store at this moment, can I be sure that they have the fixed software?

the manufacturer is trying the 85V now ,and when it’s updated ,
i will ask he to print V3.0 on the PCB board

Simon Mao
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Agro wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Agro wrote:
Simon, I love that H1:
  • knowing your lights – good quality
  • knowing your lights – superb value
  • moonlight
  • always starting low

I’d rather skip the strobe altogether, might be accidentally activated while changing modes.
And High CRI would be a nice option.

There was a big gap in the market below Skilhunt H03 and you’re the perfect maker to bridge that gap.
And 18350 tube is just a superb addition.

How much does H1 weigh?

71g not including the battery or clip


Thanks for the info.

Though that’s a disappointing one. Please let me explain…
Most of my friends who actually use flashlights are backpackers. They tend to pick headlamps. Always plastic ones; Black Diamond, Petzl and such. Sometimes I try to convince them to get something brigher, more efficient, with better tint, tougher, with more battery….and I always fail because even 92 g of Skilhunt H03 with 18650 cell is a lot for them. Similarly skinny light with 18350 would have a chance. And one that allows to pick tube size – even more so. I see that H1 with 18350 will weigh roughly as much as Skilhunt H03 with 18650. I see little reason to use 18350 then…

Also – I’m a backpacker myself. And a weight weenie on top of that. I have quite a few uses for H1 even as it is now (most importantly: a worklight, after putting a TIR in it) but it won’t become my ultimate headlamp; there will still be significant uses where it’s just too heavy.

Anyway I fully expect that H1 will be on my list of lights worth recommending – but not to everyone. Significantly – not to most of my friends.

Thanks for your explanation. i will launch H2 H3 H4… in the future, You made me understand the needs of the users. In terms of weight, I will design a headlight that is more suitable for the user.
Simon Mao
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zak.wilson wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:

and what is the full name of Duv? i want to learn more

The axes of the CIE 1960 colorspace are labeled “u” and “v”. Duv is “delta uv”, or the distance between two coordinates. As used in maukka’s reports, it’s the distance from the blackbody line at the correlated color temperature of the light to the actual color coordinate of the light, or more simply, how red or green the light is.

More than +/- 0.005 is a very large Duv – very obviously red or green, easily noticed even without comparison to another light source. A positive Duv is green, and a negative Duv is red. +0.0075 as seen with this C8/219C sample is extremely green such that the color of everything illuminated with it will appear distorted despite the high CRI.

Almost nobody here likes light that is very green. Some people like light that is noticeably red (and seek out rare LEDs like the Nichia 219B sw45k to get it), but almost everyone will be happy with light that is purely white (Duv less than +/- 0.001).

Clear, thanks for your explanation. Thumbs Up
Simon Mao
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zak.wilson wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
long press for off,and single click to change mode strobe(double-click the switch)

I hate this UI. I find it difficult to understand why anybody would design a UI like this.

The biggest problem is that changing modes too quickly results in strobe. Accidental strobe is no fun at all, especially if you’re trying to switch from medium to low, so you click the button again quickly after you get high. The combination of a single click to change modes and a double-click as a shortcut to anything is bad, but especially bad if it’s strobe.

Long-press for off also tends to confuse people. If I had a light to someone without giving instructions, they will expect a single press of the button to turn it on, and another press to turn it off. There’s a reason Thrunite, Olight, Acebeam, Emisar, Haikelite, and the popular open source firmwares for e-switches (Narsil and Anduril) all have roughly the same behavior:

  • Single-click: on/off
  • Long-press from off: lowest mode
  • Long-press from on: change brightness
  • Double-click: highest mode

Simon, I imagine you’re buying drivers with this firmware already on them, but do you have any way to get a different user interface on them? This one is very bad.

Thanks for your suggestion. I’ve told this to driver manufacturer. The firmware will be changed later.
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The DUV is super high, which means this emitter will look very green Sick . Hopefully Simon can source some hi cri emitters with low DUV like SST-20 with FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 tint bins or Oslon Squares with below the BBL tints.

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