Astrolux FT03

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scosgt
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Just order the part. It is an easy fix.
And then use the bad part to learn to reflow!
Don’t forget you need thermal paste also.

JasonWW
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scosgt wrote:
Just order the part. It is an easy fix.
And then use the bad part to learn to reflow!
Don’t forget you need thermal paste also.

Reflowing is lot harder than soldering plus we don’t know if he has the tools to reflow, probably not. Remember, he’s not an advanced modder, but a complete beginner. I was modding 2 years before I bought a hot air station and tried reflowing.

He can reuse the existing thermal paste as long as it’s not dried out and chalky.

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scosgt
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I have done three reflows using a soldering iron I bought on Amazon for $29.
All have been successful.

JasonWW
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scosgt wrote:
I have done three reflows using a soldering iron I bought on Amazon for $29.
All have been successful.

When you are giving advice to people, it’s important you understand their skill level. If you look at ttylamg’s posts, it’s clear to me they are a very new beginner and don’t understand much about flashlights. I’m not even sure he/she can even solder, so I do not recommend they try something that is even more diffucult.

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scosgt
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JasonWW wrote:
scosgt wrote:
I have done three reflows using a soldering iron I bought on Amazon for $29. All have been successful.
When you are giving advice to people, it’s important you understand their skill level. If you look at ttylamg’s posts, it’s clear to me they are a very new beginner and don’t understand much about flashlights. I’m not even sure he/she can even solder, so I do not recommend they try something that is even more diffucult.

True, but that’s my skill level too!

ttylamg
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Yes, all very valid approaches. I am taking a lot of short cuts, while mechanically inclined, I resulted in needing a lot of help. I don’t have basic skill or practice in this hobby, so I appreciate the guard rails for sure.

The reflowing video was very informative, but not something I would try just yet. I’ll wait till I accumulate more scrap part

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
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scosgt
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That is why I suggested buying the replacement board you linked with the LED installed.
That only requires soldering two wires.
I suggest a good soldering iron, a helping hands (you can get that that at Harbor freight) and a solder tip wipe box.
Once you have the light working, you can use the same stuff to practice reflowing the LED on the board you remove, which is toast anyway.

I have had success reflowing using a soldering iron. I know that is not the preferred way.
Just keep in mind, if you remove an LED from a board and then replace it with an LED you took off another board, you don’t need flux or to add any solder to either part. In my VERY limited experience re-used parts have enough residual solder to just use heat,

YMMV!

JasonWW
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scosgt wrote:

Just keep in mind, if you remove an LED from a board and then replace it with an LED you took off another board, you don’t need flux or to add any solder to either part. In my VERY limited experience re-used parts have enough residual solder to just use heat,

YMMV!


I always replace the solder with fresh, high quality leaded solder. I also add extra flux.

You don’t know if enough solder was used from the factory plus you might loose some due to being stuck to the old led. If you have just a tiny bit too little you may not get good contact over the center thermal pad. It is the deepest pad. This can result in poor heat transfer and the LED burning up. It’s better to have too much than too little. Plus the old solder might be lead free which is harder to work with and requires higher temperatures.

The solder in liquid form can take just 10 seconds or so to burn off the existing flux, assuming there is any left in the original solder. There is no good reason to not add extra flux. It aids in the wetting action and helps the solder to flow.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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ttylamg
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Speaking of soldering, I know there’s google, but do you guys have a link to a good tutorial? I am basically learning by trial and error and watching only. I fixed items in the past but I really suck at it.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

JasonWW
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ttylamg wrote:
Speaking of soldering, I know there’s google, but do you guys have a link to a good tutorial? I am basically learning by trial and error and watching only. I fixed items in the past but I really suck at it.

Check out this 3 part series from Dave at eevblog. Here is part 1.

https://youtu.be/J5Sb21qbpEQ

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

JasonWW
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Yokiamy
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scosgt wrote:
I have done three reflows using a soldering iron I bought on Amazon for $29. All have been successful.

Maybe you want to buy something like this, i am tempted to buy one

HEATING PLATE

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Anyone ever think of making a bat signal cover for the fto3 got the idea when thick clouds were hovering low over our campsite

ttylamg
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Finally got the replacement, of course I had to dedome it. I forgot to test it first before I start, now after dedome it won’t light up… just my luck.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
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JasonWW
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ttylamg wrote:
Finally got the replacement, of course I had to dedome it. I forgot to test it first before I start, now after dedome it won’t light up… just my luck.

Bummer. There is always risk involved in modding lights.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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ttylamg
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I think it’s a sign for me to explore reflowing. Now I just need to find sources of SST-40

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
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L4M4
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Is it possible to flash Anduril on this driver?
I would like to have the ramping not stop in the middle, but go right to turbo and Narsil can’t do that, bus Anduril can.

Why are there even two UI’s that are so similar?

JasonWW
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L4M4 wrote:
Is it possible to flash Anduril on this driver?
Yes
I would like to have the ramping not stop in the middle, but go right to turbo and Narsil can’t do that, but Anduril can.
Narsil can as well, you just have to change the code and reflash.

Why are there even two UI’s that are so similar?
They are actually completely different. The only similarity is ramping.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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ttylamg
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after several stars (3 replacements), I finally got it working. However, after running it on turbo, it died instantly! And again, it seems that the led died, not the flashlight/driver part, as the button still works and can go into different modes, I even left the star there and used 2 wires to pull current from the star to another led, and that led runs just fine.

do I just have bad luck with SST-40 leds or what?

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
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arw4
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ttylamg wrote:
after several stars (3 replacements), I finally got it working. However, after running it on turbo, it died instantly! And again, it seems that the led died, not the flashlight/driver part, as the button still works and can go into different modes, I even left the star there and used 2 wires to pull current from the star to another led, and that led runs just fine.

do I just have bad luck with SST-40 leds or what?

That’s a real disappointment after spending the time you have on it. It seems to me that the initial issue of voltage overload may have not only had a detrimental affect on the LED, but may also have adversely affected the FET driver – as you say, the regulated modes are seemingly driving the LED normally. Out of curiosity, what happened to the previous star replacements you made on the flashlight?

ttylamg
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arw4 wrote:
That’s a real disappointment after spending the time you have on it. It seems to me that the initial issue of voltage overload may have not only had a detrimental affect on the LED, but may also have adversely affected the FET driver – as you say, the regulated modes are seemingly driving the LED normally. Out of curiosity, what happened to the previous star replacements you made on the flashlight?

The big el cheapo led I got from the dollar store, can be driven on full and lower modes (didn’t play with it fully, but am sure it can be ramped full and ramped down just fine) So I am still some what skeptical about the driver being bad, but I am no flashlight expert.

The stars are just sitting in my drawer along with the ft03 parts.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

buck91
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Do we know what the vf of these 50.2 FT03 lights is? I received mine (in a gorgeous green ano) a short time ago and so far I’m very happy. Thinking about swapping to a high(er) CRI option than what came with it. 3v, 6v or 12v LED?

JasonWW
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buck91 wrote:
Do we know what the vf of these 50.2 FT03 lights is? I received mine (in a gorgeous green ano) a short time ago and so far I’m very happy. Thinking about swapping to a high(er) CRI option than what came with it. 3v, 6v or 12v LED?

Forward voltage or just voltage? It’s a 3v led. All FT03/S are 3 volt.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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buck91
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Great. Just didn’t know which version of the XHP50.2 they used. I’ll have to start watching for a good tint/CRI 50.2 to replace it with.

Fwhomeboy
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Ok, now I have the FT03 and the Fireflies E07, I think I have the best of both, flood and Throw. Is there a single cell Thrower that’s smaller than the FT03 but just as good? Thanks.

The New Guy

arw4
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Have a look at this article for useful guidance.

https://1lumen.com/farthest-throw-flashlight/

Fwhomeboy
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arw4 wrote:
Have a look at this article for useful guidance.

https://1lumen.com/farthest-throw-flashlight/


Ok, thanks

The New Guy

ttylamg
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what are the compatible star and led available for this light? thinking about turning this into a colored light that looks like a laser.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

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