Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 VS Zebralight H600fc MK IV XHP50.2 - What would you buy?

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Ilumenati
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Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 VS Zebralight H600fc MK IV XHP50.2 - What would you buy?

I’ve finally (hopefully) narrowed down my search for a headlamp to either the Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 or the Zebralight H604c 18650 XHP50.2 and I need some help.

I have read and watched many reviews and can’t decide. I like the Army tek’s TIR lens, coating and headlamp mounting but the Zebralight seems to have more efficient drivers, may be more reliable and has a strong following on the forum.

I would really appreciate any advice,

Thanks,

Edited by: Ilumenati on 01/19/2019 - 23:19
Lexel
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in Germany the Armytec shop got till today 30% on headlamps
code headlamp

but i would also tend more to the Zebralights
if you need close up light as mule take the Zebralight but dont expect throw from it
quality seems a bit better on Zebralight

but the beam pattern of Zebralights frostes lens with reflector is also very nice
here is a beamshot video you can see a H600Fd Mk IV light up very nice

zak.wilson
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If you prefer the Armytek TIR to the no-optics approach of the H604c, I think the H600Fc is exactly what you need. Keep in mind the high color rendering index of the Zebralight c/d models as well. Lumens sell lights, but CRI helps you see. Armytek does not offer this.

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chadvone
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I went with the Wizard Pro.

Based on the UI. Switch location. TIR. Coating(black). Tail cap options. Magnetic USB recharging(tho I don’t use often).

Hate the ZL UI. But I hear the newer version is better.

Ilumenati
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Thanks Lexel, the discount was motivating me to pull the trigger today. Your video showing the the frosted optics is very helpful. For what I want this light pattern would work too.

Zak, good point about the CRI, I hadn’t really thought about this, I do not have any flashlights with CRI rating to compare with but when using interior LED lighting I have noticed a difference with higher CRI.

Does anyone know of a discount or better prices on Zebralights?

Pavlo
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The H604 series is completely floody. The Wizard would be closest to the H600fw fc and fd series, and the beam of those zebralights (reflector with lightly frosted lens) is very similar to the beaded TIR optic of the Armytek.

Having owned both Zebralights and Armyteks, the fit, size and finish is a step up in Zebralight. Zebralight also offers their lights in High CRI. For those two reasons alone, I would go with the Zebralight. The beauty of the Zebralight UI is that you don’t have to cycle through any mode in order to get to either L, M or High as it is all shortcut based. Long Press, Click, or Double click will take you directly to any of the 3 levels that are also fully programmable.

I have read ‘rumors’ that Armytek will release a high CRI Wizard using a Nichia 144am LED, but nothing has yet to surface so far.
The Wizard is still a great light and if it can be purchased at a highly discounted rate, I would consider it as well. The magnetic charging is a nice touch that can be convenient when travelling or for someone not yet equipped with 18650 charger and batteries.

zak.wilson
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Armytek has been saying they’re going to make a Wizard Pro 144A for over a year. I believe I was the first to put a 144A in one. It needs a 144AR for full output; the 144AM is half the voltage and the driver is current-regulated. I might be making a different recommendation if that configuration was available. It isn’t though, and the Zebralight is.

There are no discounts on Zebralights, pretty much ever. About the only exception is when they drop the price on old stock of discontinued models.

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clemence
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ZL all the way if the choices are limited to only Wizard Pro XHP50 vs H604xx. The boost driver used in Armytek simply don’t delivers. I never use Wizard Pro XHP50 highest turbo for this particular reason.

For buck driver based (3V LED based), I’d prefer Armytek since its still mod friendly and way more efficient than their boost driver based family. Integrated LED board in ZL makes it very hard for LED upgrades. Try to contact Bob_McBob for more info, he did plenty of ZL than most of us.

- Clemence

virencelights
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ZL all the Way.
I have one of Sir Bobs.
contact him surely for advice.

clemence wrote:
ZL all the way if the choices are limited to only Wizard Pro XHP50 vs H604xx. The boost driver used in Armytek simply don’t delivers. I never use Wizard Pro XHP50 highest turbo for this particular reason.

For buck driver based (3V LED based), I’d prefer Armytek since its still mod friendly and way more efficient than their boost driver based family. Integrated LED board in ZL makes it very hard for LED upgrades. Try to contact Bob_McBob for more info, he did plenty of ZL than most of us.

- Clemence

Virence ArmyTek Viking Pro Quadtrix 9080 E21A 6500k, Virence Skilhunt H04 RC Quadtrix 9080 E21A 5700k, Virence Jetbeam AAA 9080 E21A 5700k, Virence Jetbeam AAA Nichia HCRI Red Led.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5szQO9jM2z/?fbclid=IwAR2iVysO9q_niBevQv35pH...

Ilumenati
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Pavio, thanks for the clarification, I was not completely sure how different “Flood” and “Floody” would be in comparison to a TIR.

I just took some time with the comparison spreadsheet Zebralight provides and the H600fc (4000k) and H600fd (5000k) are “Floody” and have the XHP50.2 emitters with the high CRI (93-95).

I wish they had a 4500k, that seems to be a sweet spot for me with shop lights but if I go with ZL I will probably choose the 4000k H600fc.

Pavlo
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I agree, 4500k is indeed the sweet spot. The FC will be a little warm, and more relaxing, the FD will be clinically pure white but can sometimes appear cool depending on what previous light source you are adapted to.

There is also the h600fw if you want 4500k but CRI will be lower at around 80. You will notice the FC and FD bring out browns and reds better.

Also, don’t forget that if you are willing to use DC fix as a diffuser film, you can go with the clear lens versions h600c d or w for more throw with option to diffuse.

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I would go with the (or any) Zebralight, it is overall the better product.

Among the differences between ArmyTek and Zebralight headlamps is also the temperature regulation, Zebralight has a much more sophisticated one. The PID regulation adjusts the brightness smoothly up and down, which means you simply always get the maximum brightness possible for the current conditions. In normal use you don't even notice the adjustments. Additionally if the light gets to hot (or not hot enough) for your liking you can adjust the target temperature (default 50°C) in 1°C increments up or down 5°C.

The temperature regulation of the Wizard Pro uses large and noticeable steps (which can be a bit distracting/irritating), plus it has a lot of overswing, which means it is constantly adjusting the brightness and never really settles (as you can see in runtime charts of maukkas review).

Ryzbor
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@Maukka, do the 3V Armytek headlamps have a buck driver or a linear one?

I had both the H600Fc Mk IV (and III) and the Wizard Pro WW and I prefer the Wizard. However my Mk IV was from the first batch witch suffered from a lot of issues including visibly fluctuating PID. The tint of the Wizard pro WW is also better, the ZL XHP50.2 tint was lime green, the CRI not spectacular, the 219C outperformed it. I keep blinding myself with the factory ZL UI, this does not happen with the wizard ui but it’s less quick as a downside. The Mk IV has no 0.01lm moon which is a huge downside for me. The Wizard has a wider (better) beam profile and more power. The quality of the ZL is way better, top notch the Mk III.

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro, MF01 Mini 4000K to be modded with FA3 SST20, super rosy 3000K E21A Tiara and super warm 2000K Wizard Pro on it's way

Lexel
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Ryzbor wrote:
@Maukka, do the 3V Armytek headlamps have a buck driver or a linear one?

I had both the H600Fc Mk IV (and III) and the Wizard Pro WW and I prefer the Wizard. However my Mk IV was from the first batch witch suffered from a lot of issues including visibly fluctuating PID. The tint of the Wizard pro WW is also better, the ZL XHP50.2 tint was lime green, the CRI not spectacular, the 291C outperformed it. I keep blinding myself with the factory ZL UI, this does not happen with the wizard ui but it’s less quick as a downside. The Mk IV has no 0.01lm moon which is a huge downside for me. The Wizard has a wider (better) beam profile and more power. The quality of the ZL is way better, top notch the Mk III.

Most of the MK IV´s have sub 0.1lm moon
The switch position on ZL is in my eyes not the best especially if you are used lights with the other position on the side

ZL mainly uses CRI 80 LEDs which have not the max output like low CRI ones but its definately worth it

Ryzbor
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The difference between 0.01lm and 0.08 is rather harsh when your eyes are adjusted to the dark. I don’t understand why they raised the lowest low, really stupid decision since they were the only producer offering really low moonlights.

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro, MF01 Mini 4000K to be modded with FA3 SST20, super rosy 3000K E21A Tiara and super warm 2000K Wizard Pro on it's way

Lexel
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Ryzbor wrote:
The difference between 0.01lm and 0.08 is rather harsh when your eyes are adjusted to the dark. I don’t understand why they raised the lowest low, really stupid decision since they were the only producer offering really low moonlights.

so lets assume you got a map and want it to read with night adapted eyes, thats usually 30-40cm away from the headlight
0.08lm wont interfere with night adapted eyes when reflected from your map, looking into the full moon is a lot brighter

0.08lm is only too bright if you look directly in your light or literally put the light on top of your map to light a very small area, which is not the case with a headlight

The reasion is an efficient Boost driver design
it needs a certain amount of feedback signal for current regulation, if you go very low with the current you need a bigger shunt, which generates more heat on high levels
or you risk not stable regulation having visible noise flicker in the firefly like seen on AMCs at PWM Levels below 3

zak.wilson
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Lexel wrote:
ZL mainly uses CRI 80 LEDs which have not the max output like low CRI ones but its definately worth it

The 4th-generation c and d models are all 90 CRI. 4th-generation w models are 80.

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Ryzbor
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When I wake up and grab a ZL the 0.01lm mode doesn’t interfere with my adapted ayes and lights up the whole room to a level I won’t fall over things. The 0.08lm already interferes and starts “waking me up” and is generally speaking “bright” to the eyes.
In the Mk III you had the freedom of choice between 0.01lm and 0.08lm, in the Mk IV not any more and I don’t like that.

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro, MF01 Mini 4000K to be modded with FA3 SST20, super rosy 3000K E21A Tiara and super warm 2000K Wizard Pro on it's way

Bob_McBob
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For stock lights, there’s no question I’d prefer the H600Fc Mk IV over the Wizard Pro. The light output is significantly higher quality (high CRI with neutral duv), the driver is more efficient with better temperature regulation, and it’s a more compact light to boot. I personally prefer Armytek’s UI and like having a tail magnet, but light quality is more important to me.

NotSoBrightGuy
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My experience with Armytek is quite sub-par so far.

On Jan 16th, I have paid 162,75$ Cad to buy two headlamps from armytek.ca (wizard and wizard pro).
On jan 25th, they finally shipped my order (9 days to get this out of their warehouse!!)
On Jan 29th, I had to pay 20,80$ in duty fees to finally get these 2 headlamps (thanks DHhell). Armytek promised to refund me the duty fees since I have ordered from a Canadian website and company to deliver to a Canadian address.
On Jan 30th, I have received the package but the lights are the wrong model. When I told them about it they ask me to pay to ship everything back to china!! Promising again to refund me later.
On Jan 31st, I told them to first refund the duties since it is starting to look like a scam.
Today, Feb 5th, they still havent refund the duty fees. They never apologized, they always start their email reply by: Thanks for your email. I feel like I am dealing with a robot.

If you wonder what I got: Predator Pro and Baracuda Pro.

BLF A6 / Astrolux A01 / Emistar D4 v2 Nichia 219C / Emisar D1s 5000K / Astrolux MF01 / BLF FWA3 (soon-ish)

chadvone
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Just get both and let us know your impressions.

smithd1
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I don’t own any armytek so I cannot comment on them.

I do own several Zebras and love them. Highly recommended.

BurningPlayd0h
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With the issues people have had with Armytek as a company (expensive/VERY slow shipping, problems with returns/warranties, lack of communication) plus them changing the optics in some models to a version that wastes something like 25% of the lights output… I would trust Zebralight much more.

waloshin
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Are there any beamshot videos of the H600Fc Mk IV I am debating between the 4000K and the 5000K.

puglife2
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As a owner of 2 wizard pro (3000k CRI90 XM-L2 & XHP50) and two tiara pro (2000k & 2700K E21A), i would say get the wizard Glasses

BurningPlayd0h
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waloshin wrote:
Are there any beamshot videos of the H600Fc Mk IV I am debating between the 4000K and the 5000K.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9b-LaM5QSJI_pZAv94rUBQ

SKV89
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puglife2 wrote:
As a owner of 2 wizard pro (3000k CRI90 XM-L2 & XHP50) and two tiara pro (2000k & 2700K E21A), i would say get the wizard Glasses

How did you get a 2700k E21A? Virence.com only sell 2000k and 3000k. The 90CRI variants of the Wizard Pros are not by Armytek right?

The 4000k E21A clemence has now is much brighter and more efficient than the 2000k E21A. D240 vs D160. The driver of the Tiara is also much more efficient than the boost driver in the Wizard Pro.

BurningPlayd0h
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SKV89 wrote:
puglife2 wrote:
As a owner of 2 wizard pro (3000k CRI90 XM-L2 & XHP50) and two tiara pro (2000k & 2700K E21A), i would say get the wizard Glasses

How did you get a 2700k E21A? Virence.com only sell 2000k and 3000k. The 90CRI variants of the Wizard Pros are not by Armytek right?

The 4000k E21A clemence has now is much brighter and more efficient than the 2000k E21A. D240 vs D160. The driver of the Tiara is also much more efficient than the boost driver in the Wizard Pro.

Probably mixed emitters.

Stefano
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
waloshin wrote:
Are there any beamshot videos of the H600Fc Mk IV I am debating between the 4000K and the 5000K.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9b-LaM5QSJI_pZAv94rUBQ

Hi BurningPlayd0h
Thanks for posting the link to my channel.
Unfortunately I am stopped for almost three years and he will not find helpful videos for your question.
I have not yet bought any new model MK IV, maybe soon I will do some videos with the new Zebralight models

@Ilumenati
I bought many Armytek Wizard (basic version) and Elf C2 – they are very valid and so far none has failed !

I bought the Wizard pro XHP50 and returned it after 24 hours – it disappointed me.
My advice is to look at H600Fc or Fd Wink

Ilumenati
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Thank you for the advice Stefano,

I had looked at several of your videos previously to help me narrow down my choices. I think your videos have been helpful for many other people as well.

puglife2
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Stefano wrote:

I bought the Wizard pro XHP50 and returned it after 24 hours – it disappointed me.

Why?

BurningPlayd0h wrote:
SKV89 wrote:

How did you get a 2700k E21A? Virence.com only sell 2000k and 3000k. The 90CRI variants of the Wizard Pros are not by Armytek right?

The 4000k E21A clemence has now is much brighter and more efficient than the 2000k E21A. D240 vs D160. The driver of the Tiara is also much more efficient than the boost driver in the Wizard Pro.

Probably mixed emitters.

Yes mixed

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