Lumintop GT4

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nokoff
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I googled “hot and heavy” and this thread was on the first page, unfortunately I was looking for non-flashlight porn this time

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nokoff wrote:
I googled “hot and heavy” and this thread was on the first page, unfortunately I was looking for non-flashlight porn this time
Facepalm

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nokoff wrote:
I googled “hot and heavy” and this thread was on the first page, unfortunately I was looking for non-flashlight porn this time

lol haha,.. Shocked

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nokoff wrote:
I googled “hot and heavy” and this thread was on the first page, unfortunately I was looking for non-flashlight porn this time

Google knows you and your preferences.
nokoff
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
nokoff wrote:
I googled “hot and heavy” and this thread was on the first page, unfortunately I was looking for non-flashlight porn this time
Google knows you and your preferences.

Lol must be true Thumbs Up

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Blinkinglights
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You all have too many jokes.
So will the GT4 have options for other leds than 70.2?

Me love lights lonng tyme!

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Blinkinglights wrote:
You all have too many jokes.
So will the GT4 have options for other leds than 70.2?

What other possible led could be an option?
mortuus
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Blinkinglights wrote:
You all have too many jokes. So will the GT4 have options for other leds than 70.2?

have you seen how beefy the head looks? its made for this type of emitters to absorb that amounts of heats those emitters will produce, doubt they have plans for anything else, but that depends if enough demand they might produce something after but dont count on it for now maybe..

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There are no plans for other emitters at this time but the design is such that DIY mods should not be hard. You could use 3v, 6v, or 12v LED’s without much trouble. You would just need large ~26mm+ mcpcb’s for them.

An XHP35 version was considered but honestly you might as well just get the GT70 as I expect that the throw and output would be similar. The only benefit would be better tint options but that is not enough for most people.

A boost HX version would be interesting to consider once the LED is released but till then it is impossible to say if it would be worth it.

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I think the other guys want a CFT90 light.

That would easily cost 1200$US+ though.

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Sliced XHP70.2 would be just about perfect I think. Unfortunately that will have to be done by the customer.

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we should hire ZozzV6 to produce the LEDs Wink

 

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M4D M4X wrote:

we should hire ZozzV6 to produce the LEDs Wink


Maybe Big Smile
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M4D M4X wrote:

we should hire ZozzV6 to produce the LEDs Wink

Amen to that!! . <— click <— .. He does it like a pro…. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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teacher wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:

we should hire ZozzV6 to produce the LEDs Wink

Amen to that!! . He does it like a pro…. Thumbs Up

I agree! Big Smile
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If Lumintop contact me to make dedomed leds for them I can do it just we need to agree in labour cost and they need to send me the leds on the final MCPCB-s. You can undesrstand that the shipping costs and labour will rise the final flashlight’s price by a margin. 4 leds dedoming take at least 2-3 hours continuous work on microscope making very precise moves so I think I only can make for one or max two flashlights a day to not make my eyes tired as hell.. To translate that around 7-10 flashlights per month.

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I’m in for at least two Smile

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ZozzV6 wrote:
If Lumintop contact me to make dedomed leds for them I can do it just we need to agree in labour cost and they need to send me the leds on the final MCPCB-s. You can undesrstand that the shipping costs and labour will rise the final flashlight’s price by a margin. 4 leds dedoming take at least 2-3 hours continuous work on microscope making very precise moves so I think I only can make for one or max two flashlights a day to not make my eyes tired as hell.. To translate that around 7-10 flashlights per month.

That’s tiring work. Would a sliced dome approach dedomed LED improvement?

Couldn’t they order dedomed LEDs on a reel? They are a manufacturer.

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nokoff wrote:

That’s tiring work. Would a sliced dome approach dedomed LED improvement?

Couldn’t they order dedomed LEDs on a reel? They are a manufacturer.


You can’t really dedome the 70.2. They all have to be sliced. Cree does not make HI versions, only HD with the dome.

Unless Zozz has a special technique to remove the dome, but I don’t think anyone has done this successfully.

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Maxtoch has unless I’m remembering it wrong. They’ve also done a clean de-dome on the SST-40.

And slicing/dicing doesn’t take all that long once you get used to doing it. I cover the MCPCB with a copper plate that has the square cut out for the substrate, slice with a silicone greased scalpel, then dice the sides. Takes a few minutes at most. No microscope, no helping hands, no real set-up… just a couple of bare MCPCB’s under the outer edges of the copper plate to keep it sitting level on the board that has the die.

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Ah, good to know thanks

That may be the only way to make this light viable if they decide to move forward with it. Even TA said the GT4 design idea is dated

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JasonWW wrote:
nokoff wrote:

That’s tiring work. Would a sliced dome approach dedomed LED improvement?

Couldn’t they order dedomed LEDs on a reel? They are a manufacturer.


You can’t really dedome the 70.2. They all have to be sliced. Cree does not make HI versions, only HD with the dome.

Unless Zozz has a special technique to remove the dome, but I don’t think anyone has done this successfully.


Yes the 70/70.2 and the XHP35 can be de-domed cleanly…. I have done it a few times…

Here is a too closely shaved XHP70.2 that started to burn….I soaked it in a strong thinner to remove the silicone. If you right click to view/enlarge + you can see the silicone and black specs of char.

Right click to view/enlarge+ Dome on the left, clean silicone free de-dome on the right. BLF GT XHP35HI chemically de-domed XHP35 E4’s It can be done… Wink

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Blinkinglights
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Yeah it can, I did about 15 successful dedomes, but about 8 failed, so make sure you got real sharp tools a steady hand and few extra leds on hand won’t hurt as well.

Me love lights lonng tyme!

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Blinkinglights wrote:
Yeah it can, I did about 15 successful dedomes, but about 8 failed, so make sure you got real sharp tools a steady hand and few extra leds on hand won’t hurt as well.
Good advise extra emitters are a must! Slicing and Dicing isn’t de-doming it’s slicing the dome off, the 70.2 dosen’t have bond wires, pretty hard to screw that up. Now slicing too close can cause the LED to burn, or if you polish it/sand the silicone down, sometimes causes fishers in the silicone, and it could burn, only issue I have ever seen, but if caught in time can be saved, by chemical de-doming, where patience is a virtue….that is where I screw up, pulling phosphorous off the pad, removing the silicone before it’s ready to be removed, sometimes the silicone can never be removed with out ruining the phosphorous. The old 70’s and the XHP35’s are the toughest, they have bond wires. The SST40’s even worse.

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Not to mention that some dedomed emitters fail after an unpredictably long period of time. In my experience, the harder you drive the LED, the greater chance it has to burn. It does not necessarily have to be the phosphorus or the chip itself, but even remnants of the silicone that have been fine for a year or even two might suddenly burn without any warning.

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johny723 wrote:
Not to mention that some dedomed emitters fail after an unpredictably long period of time. In my experience, the harder you drive the LED, the greater chance it has to burn. It does not necessarily have to be the phosphorus or the chip itself, but even remnants of the silicone that have been fine for a year or even two might suddenly burn without any warning.

Ya man, it really sucks, out of no where…light starts to go dimmer, then you look….SMOKE! Facepalm

I have learned to use a UV light and check for silicone and missing phosphorous with a 10X glass then burn them in, on the rock and then with my test light, a SD75 Lexel Narsil/Infineon FET 6 volt driver with 4 VTC5A’s everything bypassed with 18awg, at 22-23 amps, if there is any remnants of silicone, this light will seek and destroy it.

I could give a crap about the LED, it’s the Reflector getting smoked I’m pissed about! (I usually purchase extra reflectors just in case) but now it’s really not worth it anymore, been there, done that, bought a shirt, burned it……….

But it was to say the least…. All in good fun!

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So you can dedome it, but it might be ruined in the process and kinda sorta might not last long when pushed hard?

I guess in my head I didn’t see it as a viable option. At least now I know dedoming is possible.

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Yes the 70/70.2 and the XHP35 can be de-domed cleanly…. I have done it a few times…

Here is a too closely shaved XHP70.2 that started to burn….I soaked it in a strong thinner to remove the silicone.

It can be done… Wink


Interesting. I have one that I shaved too close and it started burning. I have a new XHP70.2 on the way that I plan on slicing a little higher, but in the meantime I could try your method, I’ve already written the burnt XHP70.2 off.

I know previously we used petrol/gas to dedome XML’s and XPG’s, but you now mention strong thinners.
- Does it specifically need to be thinners?
- Would turpentine, benzine, surgical spirits, or any other solvent work as well?
- For how long do you leave it in the thinners? When do you know it’s ready?
- Does the silicone float off, or do you have to peel it off?

Thanks

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