2*AA side-by-side aluminum flashlight - DCF01 by Sofirn (Formerly: Resurrection of Duracell Durabeam)

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ZozzV6
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Interesting idea!
The output in plastic should be low but it will be good as a bike light too if you make a mount thing on it. I suggest Gopro style so you can use a wide variety of mounts.

hank
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Here’s another one, from the invaluable Flashlight Museum

http://www.flashlightmuseum.com/Eveready-Flashlight-F215-2AA-Cell-Sport-...

$4, 1995

======

And the children’s version:

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and a few weird ones here:
https://www.opticsplanet.com/energizer-bravo-2aa-flashlight-handheld-swi...

======
And [Gas$p!]: https://www.illumn.com/sunwayman-d20a-xp-g2-xp-e-p2-258-lumens-2-x-aa.html $41.50 REGULAR PRICE $83.00

nvanlaar
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I briefly toyed with this idea…

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

Barry0892
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thanks guys.

there are two ways sofirn can help. One is you guys find a plastic light in alibaba, sofirn improve it according to your ideas and do the group buy. the other is design a aluminum light you wanted, such as the 2*AA light.

the difficulty is not to fulfill it but to fulfill it at a low price. It needs keep it simple and big quantity of group buy, let’s say 1K.

all things are not clear, all I can say is we can talk about it and see if we can make it together.

cheers

PS: I found flashlights for kids is a big need, it will be great if we can make one or improve one existed, simple UI, kids friendly, tough, cheap, nice looking for kids…..

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djozz
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I found that the Sofirn C01 is excellent for kids, if Sofirn could continue making it, perhaps not with Yuji led but another 5mm led (preferrably with neutral tint), that would be great. If the price is still 5 dollar it is cheap enough to loose it too.

The C01S is great for kids too but too expensive to loose (my son would loose it all the time).

rost333
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Is anyone able to post the measurements of 2AA Duracell Durabeam please? Those are needed for 3D modelling.
Thank you in advance Wink

contactcr
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I think most kid flashlights are probably better off being larger, more colorful and with a plastic lens. AA sized lights are fine too but I think our kids are the exception since it’s our hobby too.

jasontheguitarist
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hank wrote:
Here’s another one, from the invaluable Flashlight Museum

http://www.flashlightmuseum.com/Eveready-Flashlight-F215-2AA-Cell-Sport-...

$4, 1995

======

And the children’s version:

=====

and a few weird ones here:
https://www.opticsplanet.com/energizer-bravo-2aa-flashlight-handheld-swi...

======
And [Gas$p!]: https://www.illumn.com/sunwayman-d20a-xp-g2-xp-e-p2-258-lumens-2-x-aa.html $41.50 REGULAR PRICE $83.00

I have one of the everyready sport ones. I’ve had it since I was a kid. Mine is missing the rectangle shaped gasket though, so it’s not water resistant anymore. It lives in a bathroom and gets occasional use.

rost333
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Is anyone able to post the measurements of 2AA Duracell Durabeam please? Those are needed for 3D modelling.
Thank you in advance Wink

BUMP (Bringing Up My Post)

Caleb
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If this light ever gets made, it would be the perfect opportunity to introduce hi CRI to the public.

Wrathbringer27
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Ah yes. Sofirn needs to create an updated D20A. I have mine as my bed light. I navigate with the red led

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

Jack Kellar
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Just giving this one a little bump.

rost333
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2AA Dependable Compact Flashlight from Sofirn on the horizon Big Smile

Have prepared two versions of UI.
Still can’t decide which one would suit muggles better Blushing


Full size here: https://i.imgur.com/dUv3tvv.jpg


Full size here: https://i.imgur.com/sJtLIr5.jpg

I would be grateful for any criticism. The more brutally honest the better Wink

Additional thought: Maybe we will be able to use a driver developed for Sofirn SP10S “BLF edition” with Andúril Silly

RobertB
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You let the cat out of the bag

rost333
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Here are earlier alternative variants that “didn’t make it”

or

and this one is the final(ish) design:

The front is inspired (on Sofirn’s suggestion) on Russian headlamp YLP Panda 3

The OLED is similar (again on Sofirn’s suggestion) to Fenix’s UC52:

bmengineer
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I would probably have to buy this with my love of side by sides. Do we know what emitters they want to use?

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

1stein
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bmengineer wrote:
I would probably have to buy this with my love of side by sides. Do we know what emitters they want to use?

#48
Is says Nichia E21A – the little ones around the main reflector.

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For the UI, the one Nitecore uses on the EC4 series is fantastic, but it doesn’t have any way to change between flood and throw – that definitely clutters things a bit.

I would suggest staying away from built in charging and the OLED. There are almost no AA lights with built in charging for a reason, and the screen is just a point of failure and a major design challenge. The two combined don’t bode well for water resistance or AA support.

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

rost333
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The idea to use Nichia NVSWE21A (sm453 r9080) was based on hope that it would be possible to create design of Sofirn’s DCF01 inspired by Muyshondt Beagle MK. I and McGizmo ls20.

The design was sent to Barry and his response was:
‘What I can say is to get high CRI E21A is not a issue, Sofirn will handle it.
One main led surrounded by 4 E21A can be done but that make it a expensive light’

I asked how much would it cost and Barry promised to come back with a rough price.

Unfortunately Sofirn is worrying that it would make the flashlight too pricey for possible BLF Group Buy and later for average customer.
For this GB to happen it needs to secure 500 pieces in orders.

Same happened to the idea of taking some inspiration from this camera (Would be nice to have a rotary switch):

Therefore quest for a shape that would allow this flashlight to be manufactured at reasonably price continues.

As this flashlight (with it’s accessories) is intended to be really nice gift bundle the need for a nice feature emerged.
Maybe… a battery indicator like the one below?

And than… I stumbled on ttever3’s mod:

Barry’s reaction: ‘To add a lcd display to show how much juice left is a good design for muggles.’

It’s hard to find a muggle who doesn’t prefer USB charging and that’s one among other things that will make DCF01 a perfect gift flashlight.
We are building here something unique, second to none 2AA head-turning flashlight. The sort of thing that everyone deserves, but most people won’t buy for themselves — therefore a perfect gift. Great for any outdoor adventures as well as for all kind of indoor activities. By putting OLED we already made it more appealing to potential customers. By adding USB charging convenience (with information on display of time remaining to fully charged) we are making their choice of proper flashlight even easier for them.

The question will be asked by many:
What happens when someone makes the mistake of trying to recharge the AA primary batteries inside the light?

Well… First of all, there will be rechargeable batteries in the bundle/kit and rechargeable batteries recommendation printed both on the box and inside manual. Possible leakage or explosion from overheating will be shown in pictures in manual and put in CAPITAL LETTERS.
The flashlight will be designed to work on alkaline batteries, but ONLY in emergency situations. It will be not advised to use alkaline batteries on daily basis.

Any type of power source requires intelligence to be used safely. It really doesn’t matter if it’s Alkaline, NiMH or Li-ion.The risk of someone accidentally charging an alkaline in this light is not any more than someone accidentally charging an alkaline in a stand alone charger. If it’s really that big of a risk, there won’t be any consumer AA chargers on the market. I think warning stickers and labels should be adequate.

At the beginning there was an idea of removable pocket clip. Something like this:

But than I heard of Frelux Synergy 1 and the more I’m thinking about it’s clip the more I like it. I also like a small width of the knob.

Another light that can be used as an inspiration is Acebeam UC15: https://imgur.com/a/1IoGTyC

We could change it a bit and use a clip and a knob similar to one used in Frelux Synergy 1:

DavidEF
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Did this go anywhere? Is Sofirn working on it?

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Tally-ho
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rost333 wrote:
‘What I can say is to get high CRI E21A is not a issue, Sofirn will handle it.
One main led surrounded by 4 E21A can be done but that make it a expensive light’

If it is not an issue to get E21A, I hope that they will use it for new or already existing flashlights real soon.
rost333
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Still awaiting opinions/suggestions on UI from post #46

Relampago
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rost333 wrote:
Still awaiting opinions/suggestions on UI from post #46

I prefer stepless.

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin

1332332331
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I think stepless is really easy for all to understand and get the right light level, especially with separate buttons for up and down. I like the memory with shortcuts to low and high that you have for both UI’s. In the bottom left of the stepless UI, the description of how to change emitters says to hold, on the right it shows a short press.

I like the general look of the light, but would prefer that the thickness was uniform and minimized, 2 cm or less, to fit comfortably in more pockets. The clip that attaches under the screw on the end ought to work well for deep carry.

rost333
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Thank you 1332332331!

Updated:

Full size: https://i.imgur.com/FYwG7Gl.jpg

Some more questions:
1) What about Power button ? Which emitter should be turned on? Upper (throw) or lower (flood) emitter? Both?

2) What about double click ? What functionality should be implemented? Or should we leave the double click inactive?

3) If needed – bicycle mode could be activated/deactivated by prolonged press (6 minutes?)
Is it necessary?

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Will take a look at the UI and will try to give some feedback! I completely forgot to tell you something about this Facepalm

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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rost333 wrote:
Still awaiting opinions/suggestions on UI from post #46

Earlier you said that even rude comments were welcome. This may look it is, but it is not intended as such.

I thought this thread was about reviving one (or some) of the iconic primitive flashlights that we remember from our youth(s). And can serve as the start of an addiction to a whole new breed of flashaholics. Flashlights with parts that are more contemporary, but without changing the original character. With a price that has gone up from the historic $1 to $5-$10 today. Part of those historic lights was the ultimate simple UI. Most of those had a momentary switch that could be fixated. That’s all. Perfect for novices and for those who will never transcend that level. Lights that last half a lifetime, at least in our minds.

You present us a well-thought, but not-very-simple, UI. That’s a bit beyond the original scope (IMHO).

But we all do remember the Sofirn C01, that without much delay was succeeded by the Sofirn C01S.
From an on-off twistie with a 5mm led into a small light with adult character as greatest common denominator of our wishes. That’s why I propose to reserve your UI for implementation in the S-version of this revival light.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

MascaratumB
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So, I took a look at the last UI you posted!

I general I like it, but I have some doubts and comments. I didn’t read the whole thread, so please ignore questions that could have been answered before! I start with the the end:
- “runs on single AA battery”: Alkaline and Ni-MH? Also, this is just to inform that 1 single cell will power the flashlight, but it will not achieve the lumens it is supposed to with 2 cells, right?
- “low voltage protection”: when the battery is low. The over-heat protection will be something different, I guess.
- “over-discharge protection”: hum, this is more related to Ni-MH cells, right. Will the flashlight be able to “notice” when they are below the levels they’re supposed to? Is 0.9V the ideal for Ni-MH?

UI
- click for ON/OFF in button 2 = Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
- shortcuts from ON/OFF to ML (button 1) and High (button 2) = Thumbs Up
- two buttons to UP and DOWN brightness by Press & Hold = Thumbs Up
- Possibility to start on ML and keep on “ramping up” the light till the desired level = Thumbs Up
- Possibility to on High and keep on “ramping down” the light till the desired level = Thumbs Up

Doubts:
- Press & Hold Button 1 – from OFF it will enter Moonlight without having to press button 2, right? If so, shouldn’t the dotted arrow in the scheme be red instead of black?
- Stepless dimming – will it be fast enough so that people don’t get “bored” with choosing brightness? Meaning: most of the lights I have with that system take a while and are not fast as a ramping UI. Just wanted to be sure on this
- Will the flashlight memorize the emitter(s) we have selected in our previous use?
- The part mentioning the that High will “step down to Low 10 minutes after power OFF”, is this a safety “don’t blind anyone” measure?
- About the lumens, will it always be 608 lumens with one or two emitters? Meaning, if I use the light with 1 emitter I will get 608 lumens and if I use it with two will it also be 608 lumens?

Concerns:
- As Henk4U2 mentioned, isn’t this UI too complicated for muggle people? Pressing ON/OFF in the button 2 and cycling between three well spaced and useful modes (L-M-H) through singles clicks in button 1 would be easier. This is more a flashaholic UI, even if we think it is simple!
- Not sure if adding “blinkies” such as bike strobe or strobe is very useful. Still if so, let it be hidden and not accessible by double clicks (triple or more clicks).
- The single clicks on button 1 to change emitters is a smart move – as we may wrongly “click” that button and still have light, just with a different beam – but wouldn’t double clicking on button 1 be more appropriate for this?

Sorry if some of the questions are dumb, but I am just trying to perceive how I would feel with this light in the hand.

And good work so far Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

slowtechstef
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Great initiative!

In my opinion:

Warm white or neutral white Nichia E21A: yes please!

Side by side 2AA light: yes please, formfactor with great ergonomics and look.

And most mportant: KISS
Keep It Super Simple.
To create a simple design that works well is no simple task.

Less components means lower costs, less things to go wrong or break, and higher reliability and robustness as a consequence.

No LCD display. I think most people understand they should change batteries when the light gets dim. A LED voltage indicator in the button would be good enough.

Please also keep the UI as simple as possible.
And use something that always starts on low.

Produce the simple version first.
If that works out, develop a second “improved” version.

Interesting thought experiment: would a slemi-permanent slide-diffuser a la Manker E02H work as well as two different emitters and reflectors? But with a cheaper, simpler design?

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I disagree..  make it smart and simple people will understand it . We're not here to make stupid lights that stupid people can understand . there are a hundred thousand of them all over ebay for $6.

If you're taking the time to do it, do it right .

Make it say BLF on it  ... let them steal it after and call it whatever they want . 

Make it a High Cri light with a great tint  ..let them screw it up with cheap C.W. emitters later.

Assuming the second version will be better than the first means you just screwed up the first time .

 

 

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