I also missed it. Not sure I like the circular mode sequence, which appears to be similar to the Folomov “wave” sequence. Other than that, it looks good.
I have the Folomov 18650S with the wave sequence - don't like it at all. Only thing I like about the M150 is the 1 Click On/Off.
Yes, I understand the reasoning behind this change, it's just in actual usage scenarios it's not really practical. Looks good on paper, but in practice I could never get used to this UI and all of my lights that are following this sequence are just sitting nicely in their boxes never to get any actual usage.
In practice it's a longer way to go from medium to low let's say by following this sequence. Med > Hi > Turbo > Hi > Med > Low, instead of Mid > Hi > Turbo > Low for ex.
Also, if you're on Hi, you're getting right back to the same level (Hi) in 2 clicks.. which is not what you'd want.. Same goes for Med - Med > Low > Med.. again, not making any sense, just wasted clicks to get round in place. Not to mention that there's no consistency - you could either be in Med and the sequence would go up or it could go down.. whichever that you won't know when needed. Those are practical flaws in actual usage.
Should the sequence be the usual one, you would always know that from a certain level you've always going to go up a step. That's consistentcy, that's good for an actual usage case scenario.
Regards.
And thank you for taking this change in consideration.
Yes, I understand the reasoning behind this change, it’s just in actual usage scenarios it’s not really practical. Looks good on paper, but in practice I could never get used to this UI and all of my lights that are following this sequence are just sitting nicely in their boxes never to get any actual usage.
In practice it’s a longer way to go from medium to low let’s say by following this sequence. Med > Hi > Turbo > Hi > Med > Low, instead of Mid > Hi > Turbo > Low for ex.
Also, if you’re on Hi, you’re getting right back to the same level (Hi) in 2 clicks.. which is not what you’d want.. Same goes for Med – Med > Low > Med.. again, not making any sense, just wasted clicks to get round in place. Not to mention that there’s no consistency – you could either be in Med and the sequence would go up or it could go down.. whichever that you won’t know when needed. Those are practical flaws in actual usage.
Should the sequence be the usual one, you would always know that from a certain level you’ve always going to go up a step. That’s consistentcy, that’s good for an actual usage case scenario.
Regards.
And thank you for taking this change in consideration.
Thank you very much for explaining. Understand clearly now.
If you're going to make changes to this light, you might also want to have more options for the emitter choice and especially the reflector. Give us the option to have smaller / bigger emitters and OP / SMO reflectors. The XP-L emitter is kinda small, and it goes just fine with this size reflector but what kills this combo for me it's the OP reflector. The hot-spot will be so smooth than it almost won't be distinguishable from the Corona, it will be an almost complete fade from center to whereabouts the corona would end and even further. Myself, I'd take this light with either the XP-L (not XP-L2 because of the tint shift) or even an XM-L2 or SST-40 and a SMO reflector. Should I ever prefer an OP reflector, I'd take it at least with an XHP35 / XM-L2 / SST-40 size emitter. It would also be a nice choice for whomever prefers more throw, to have an XP-G alternative with the SMO reflector as well.
If you’re going to make changes to this light, you might also want to have more options for the emitter choice and especially the reflector. Give us the option to have smaller / bigger emitters and OP / SMO reflectors. The XP-L emitter is kinda small, and it goes just fine with this size reflector but what kills this combo for me it’s the OP reflector. The hot-spot will be so smooth than it almost won’t be distinguishable from the Corona, it will be an almost complete fade from center to whereabouts the corona would end and even further. Myself, I’d take this light with either the XP-L (not XP-L2 because of the tint shift) or even an XM-L2 or SST-40 and a SMO reflector. Should I ever prefer an OP reflector, I’d take it at least with an XHP35 / XM-L2 / SST-40 size emitter. It would also be a nice choice for whomever prefers more throw, to have an XP-G alternative with the SMO reflector as well.
Regards.
More options (with easy change), we would like to offer if confirmed require more than 50pcs.
If you want to give the buyer choices, the best would be to offer your models in both 4000K (Neutral-Warm) and 5000K (Neutral-White). In this way you’d cover roughly 80% of most people preferences.
Unfortunately the leds you use are not really pretty since they are binned above the BBL = they are greenish = ugly. 4000K 5D/5A and 5000K 3A tint binned Cree leds are famous here for for producing beautiful neutral-rosy light. They are easy to obtain.
*Being known for using nice leds = more profit. *
Keep your flashlights mod friendly, this will allow people who want either true warm, true cool or high-cri light achieve it using one of your models and not by switching to a different brand.
A great example it the H03 which is a popular light for modifications in the flashlight community, mostly because beside it’s good quality it’s relatively easy to open, beside that the head is glued to the body. So please don’t glue shut your flashlights.
Doing this will result in extra people buying your lights just for modding = more profit.
It’s easy to overengineer a flashlight by implementing fanservice solutions like onboard charging which can short-circout, indicator leds which consume lots energy and switching to super-fancy UI’s.
Last but not least: keep the price decent. The H03 costed ~30$ on your Aliexpress store, now it’s 43$. Why?
I’d much prefer to order it directly from you instead of Gearbest but when GB can offer a ~29$ price for it it becomes a easy choice.
If you want to give the buyer choices, the best would be to offer your models in both 4000K (Neutral-Warm) and 5000K (Neutral-White). In this way you’d cover roughly 80% of most people preferences.
Unfortunately the leds you use are not really pretty since they are binned above the BBL = they are greenish = ugly. 4000K 5D/5A and 5000K 3A tint binned Cree leds are famous here for for producing beautiful neutral-rosy light. They are easy to obtain.
*Being known for using nice leds = more profit. *
Keep your flashlights mod friendly, this will allow people who want either true warm, true cool or high-cri light achieve it using one of your models and not by switching to a different brand.
A great example it the H03 which is a popular light for modifications in the flashlight community, mostly because beside it’s good quality it’s relatively easy to open, beside that the head is glued to the body. So please don’t glue shut your flashlights.
Doing this will result in extra people buying your lights just for modding = more profit.
It’s easy to overengineer a flashlight by implementing fanservice solutions like onboard charging which can short-circout, indicator leds which consume lots energy and switching to super-fancy UI’s.
Last but not least: keep the price decent. The H03 costed ~30$ on your Aliexpress store, now it’s 43$. Why?
I’d much prefer to order it directly from you instead of Gearbest but when GB can offer a ~29$ price for it it becomes a easy choice.
Dear Skilhunt,
If you want to give the buyer choices, the best would be to offer your models in both 4000K (Neutral-Warm) and 5000K (Neutral-White). In this way you’d cover roughly 80% of most people preferences.
Unfortunately the leds you use are not really pretty since they are binned above the BBL = they are greenish = ugly. 4000K 5D/5A and 5000K 3A tint binned Cree leds are famous here for for producing beautiful neutral-rosy light. They are easy to obtain.
*Being known for using nice leds = more profit. *
Keep your flashlights mod friendly, this will allow people who want either true warm, true cool or high-cri light achieve it using one of your models and not by switching to a different brand.
A great example it the H03 which is a popular light for modifications in the flashlight community, mostly because beside it’s good quality it’s relatively easy to open, beside that the head is glued to the body. So please don’t glue shut your flashlights.
Doing this will result in extra people buying your lights just for modding = more profit.
It’s easy to overengineer a flashlight by implementing fanservice solutions like onboard charging which can short-circout, indicator leds which consume lots energy and switching to super-fancy UI’s.
Last but not least: keep the price decent. The H03 costed ~30$ on your Aliexpress store, now it’s 43$. Why?
I’d much prefer to order it directly from you instead of Gearbest but when GB can offer a ~29$ price for it it becomes a easy choice.
I disagree.
-Tint is fine on my Skilhunt flashlights
-A glued head is better – it will not accidentally unscrew when flashlight is on headband and user twists head to change angle.
-In-built charging is very useful. Especially when it is very compact like H03RC
-Indicator LEDs are very useful.
-Sometimes making things ‘mod friendly’ results in big and bulky flashlight. I don’t want this. H03 is very compact.
Skilhunt makes finished products for consumers who just want flashlight, not DIY kits for modders. From your suggestions it seems you want the company to change to DIY stuff like Convoy. Why? If you want a Convoy, buy a Convoy. Don’t ry to ruin Skilhunt for everyone else.
Any news about this flashlight, SKILHUNT??!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Now Release!
https://www.skilhunt.com/product-detail/m150-usb-magnetic-charging-flash...
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
XPL2?
Bad choice, veeeeery bad… 
Thanks for the link
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
M150 Pre-sale, 40% Off, Last Day!
https://www.skilhunt.com/product/m150-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-flashlight/
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000003741777.html?spm=2114.12010615.814...
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
I also missed it.
Not sure I like the circular mode sequence, which appears to be similar to the Folomov “wave” sequence.
Other than that, it looks good.
I have the Folomov 18650S with the wave sequence - don't like it at all. Only thing I like about the M150 is the 1 Click On/Off.
40% Off again on AE here
Personally I don’t like mode sequence L-M-H-T-H-M-L
I prefer normal L-M-H-T-L-M-H-T
Also I don’t like cool white LED
Sorry, no buy for me
Dozens of violent drop testings—-SKILHUNT M150 AA Flashlight
https://youtu.be/m9fdKIo85HA
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Myself, I would rather see a more violent drop from turbo back to low instead of the current wave brightness modes pattern..
I like L-M-H-T-L-M-H-T too.
We changed it because considered that the eyes would adapt to light better.
Anyway, it is already done now. If more customers ask for L-M-H-T-L-M-H-T, then we will change back to L-M-H-T-L-M-H-T.
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Please, do change the sequence.
And make the drivers available separately maybe, I've already bought one..
Regards
Good idea!
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
We changed it because considered that the eyes would adapt to light better.
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Yes, I understand the reasoning behind this change, it's just in actual usage scenarios it's not really practical. Looks good on paper, but in practice I could never get used to this UI and all of my lights that are following this sequence are just sitting nicely in their boxes never to get any actual usage.
In practice it's a longer way to go from medium to low let's say by following this sequence. Med > Hi > Turbo > Hi > Med > Low, instead of Mid > Hi > Turbo > Low for ex.
Also, if you're on Hi, you're getting right back to the same level (Hi) in 2 clicks.. which is not what you'd want.. Same goes for Med - Med > Low > Med.. again, not making any sense, just wasted clicks to get round in place. Not to mention that there's no consistency - you could either be in Med and the sequence would go up or it could go down.. whichever that you won't know when needed. Those are practical flaws in actual usage.
Should the sequence be the usual one, you would always know that from a certain level you've always going to go up a step. That's consistentcy, that's good for an actual usage case scenario.
Regards.
And thank you for taking this change in consideration.
I won’t buy with this wave mode sequence.
Thank you very much for explaining. Understand clearly now.
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Just make a vote, which mode sequence you prefer
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68236
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Wow, that is hard to “beat”
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
The guy on the scooter is like oh no it’s raining flashlights again, better take my umbrella today.
Wooow, respect. Wish every flashlight was that sturdy.
Thanks, we will try our best to do this.
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
If you're going to make changes to this light, you might also want to have more options for the emitter choice and especially the reflector. Give us the option to have smaller / bigger emitters and OP / SMO reflectors. The XP-L emitter is kinda small, and it goes just fine with this size reflector but what kills this combo for me it's the OP reflector. The hot-spot will be so smooth than it almost won't be distinguishable from the Corona, it will be an almost complete fade from center to whereabouts the corona would end and even further. Myself, I'd take this light with either the XP-L (not XP-L2 because of the tint shift) or even an XM-L2 or SST-40 and a SMO reflector. Should I ever prefer an OP reflector, I'd take it at least with an XHP35 / XM-L2 / SST-40 size emitter. It would also be a nice choice for whomever prefers more throw, to have an XP-G alternative with the SMO reflector as well.
Regards.
More options (with easy change), we would like to offer if confirmed require more than 50pcs.
www.skilhunt.com www.facebook.com/skilhunt www.youtube.com/skilhunt https://skilhunt.aliexpress.com
New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Dear Skilhunt,
If you want to give the buyer choices, the best would be to offer your models in both 4000K (Neutral-Warm) and 5000K (Neutral-White). In this way you’d cover roughly 80% of most people preferences.
Unfortunately the leds you use are not really pretty since they are binned above the BBL = they are greenish = ugly. 4000K 5D/5A and 5000K 3A tint binned Cree leds are famous here for for producing beautiful neutral-rosy light. They are easy to obtain.
*Being known for using nice leds = more profit. *
Keep your flashlights mod friendly, this will allow people who want either true warm, true cool or high-cri light achieve it using one of your models and not by switching to a different brand.
A great example it the H03 which is a popular light for modifications in the flashlight community, mostly because beside it’s good quality it’s relatively easy to open, beside that the head is glued to the body. So please don’t glue shut your flashlights.
Doing this will result in extra people buying your lights just for modding = more profit.
It’s easy to overengineer a flashlight by implementing fanservice solutions like onboard charging which can short-circout, indicator leds which consume lots energy and switching to super-fancy UI’s.
Last but not least: keep the price decent. The H03 costed ~30$ on your Aliexpress store, now it’s 43$. Why?
I’d much prefer to order it directly from you instead of Gearbest but when GB can offer a ~29$ price for it it becomes a easy choice.
good tint: Nichia E21A 2000K-7500K except d240 bin, Nichia 219B sw40/sw45, 219C sw303, Cree XPL-HI A/D bins, XHP70.2 5A, Samsung shaved LH351D's, SST-20 FD2, FA3, HA3, .
Truth. Agree witch each Ryzbor’s point.
I disagree.
-Tint is fine on my Skilhunt flashlights
-A glued head is better – it will not accidentally unscrew when flashlight is on headband and user twists head to change angle.
-In-built charging is very useful. Especially when it is very compact like H03RC
-Indicator LEDs are very useful.
-Sometimes making things ‘mod friendly’ results in big and bulky flashlight. I don’t want this. H03 is very compact.
Skilhunt makes finished products for consumers who just want flashlight, not DIY kits for modders. From your suggestions it seems you want the company to change to DIY stuff like Convoy. Why? If you want a Convoy, buy a Convoy. Don’t ry to ruin Skilhunt for everyone else.
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