McClicky ???

I’ve got a brand new McClicky, just installed … it is momentary only!

There is definitely an audible click … the light comes on before the click, as a momentary should.
But as soon as it clicks, the power is off.
Many, many click cycles … momentary is all I get.

What would cause this?

I can’t help troubleshoot, but what light did you put this in, and here is a bump.

I put the switch in a Surefire Z41 HA Tailcap.

The rubber boot is too tight, try it with out the boot on.

NADA
same behavior… momentary only

Then the latch is screwed up. Are you just running it in a stock light with CR123’s? I have melted a few in my modded Surefire’s.

I have a few in the junk drawer IIRC let me look. Well can’t find them, probably tossed them out, I’ll look after work.

Bored 6P w/Malkoff NW 3 speed & 18650

Well I searched around, don’t have anymore of those McClicky switches, found a couple Zero Rez and a Malkoff switch I haven’t seen in awhile….

Wonder how many amps your light is pulling, what battery you running with that Malkoff drop in?

Not a fan of the McClicky Malkoff or the Zero Rez, the Zero Rez has to have just the right set-up, on the driver spring and battery length to work correctly. Gave up on both of them quite awhile back

I make my own FWD click switch set-ups using the KAN9 10amp 250v switch with Pilot Dogs 20mm BLF board, BlueSword’s spring and 18awg Bypass and handmade spacers out of washers, because some of my copper (kiriba-ru P60) quads and triples in my 6P’s are pulling 15 to 20amps.

They have KAN9 6amp switches also, that would be more than enough for your Malkoff drop in. You could order the boards from Oshpark and make a very robust switch for your light.

I don’t know how many amps it’s pulling.
Can’t be much, I’m running a Panasonic ncr18650b.
Sounds like you are definitely on your game, I don’t have such a skill set.

That quad looks amazing, do you sell those as well?

1/ Does the switch have a retaining ring on the inside? Try to fasten it a bit more.
2/ Try (a bit of) contact spray.

I suspect the issue is more physical than current related.

!!

No, the copper pills are oversize and then they are hand fit to a press fit, no copper wrapping, and are very labor intensive.

There is just an o-ring that seats/holds the switch into the brass adapter (IIRC) then the boot on top of it all. It’s all held together by the press against the inside of the cap really. Maybe the brass adapter is too tight? The switch itself is really only good for about 3amps maybe, after that the plastic starts to melt, 4-5amps of continuous use, the switch usually comes apart on its own, had a couple just fall into pieces, the little actuator/plunger spring came flying out.

That is exactly what happened.
I pushed the switch to turn on and nothing happened - pushed again and the boot basically collapsed.
All the gut had pushed out.
I reassembled it according to images I found on this interweb.