Waiting for next batch [AMZ US Available Now] $49.99 Sofirn SP36 Anduril Version

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Tally-ho
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Interested in a NO GLUE 4000K 90CRI

Trb5p
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Interested in NW or WW for one.

Sherbona
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Interested in 4000K or warmer

ToyKeeper
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About the no-glue thing, it’s worth pointing out that the SP36 would need host modifications to make it work without glue. It would need screws or a retaining ring or something. Because without glue, the driver falls out every time the body tube is unscrewed. And then if it’s in the wrong place while putting the light back together, it can cause a short and turn its own wires into smoke. I know this because it happened while I was testing an unglued sample.

So it’s not a simple matter of just skipping the glue during assembly.

I hope some sort of solution can be found though. It’s a really nice light, but the glue seriously limits the potential.

tundraotto
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ToyKeeper wrote:
About the no-glue thing, it’s worth pointing out that the SP36 would need host modifications to make it work without glue. It would need screws or a retaining ring or something. Because without glue, the driver falls out every time the body tube is unscrewed. And then if it’s in the wrong place while putting the light back together, it can cause a short and turn its own wires into smoke. I know this because it happened while I was testing an unglued sample.

So it’s not a simple matter of just skipping the glue during assembly.

I hope some sort of solution can be found though. It’s a really nice light, but the glue seriously limits the potential.

Understood. But as you pointed out – replacing the glue with a screw on the driver should be rather trivial.

djozz
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^ the screws need to go somewhere. Like in the Q8, the driver cavity must be reduced in favor of two extensions of the shell that house the screw holes. That implies that the driver cavity must be machined instead of turned (it is not round anymore) which is a bit more expensive. Also the driver lay-out must be re-designed to clear the areas where the driver sits on the protrusions from components.

The thickening of the shell walls where the driver screws go do provide the opportunity to add the tripod hole btw, 90 degrees from switch and USB-port.

jdh00
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Interested in one with LH351D 5000K W6.

ToyKeeper
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tundraotto wrote:
replacing the glue with a screw on the driver should be rather trivial.

As djozz explained, it’s not trivial. Eliminating the glue is actually a pretty big request.

netprince
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I am interested.

Sidney Stratton
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Interested. (very)
Prefered form factor plus with Anduril – checks;
Glued driver – negative.
Will see to mod this problem. Not many lights check all my requirements.

fluke
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I am interested, got the original but that wont stop me.

SKV89
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Orange or red switch LEDs would be great!

Also what tint bin will it be? We want below the BBL tint. Most of the Samsung LH351D are above the BBL and too green for my taste.

djozz wrote:
I like that and I’m interested. I would like to know the tint bin of the used leds.

Extra ideas:
*Stainless steel bezel
*Tripod mount (although I know it does not easily fit in the current design).
*orange or red switch leds instead of green
*and of course a removable driver, i.e. screwed down like the Q8

Diomedes
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Interested. Thanks!

derivepower
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Interested in a lower moonlight…

WJC

SKY69
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Definitely interested

Kourtinoksylo
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Also interested. The reason I still didnt buy the SP36 is because of the emitters. High CRI and 4-5000K and I buy it.

-Air cooled 4x XHP50.2: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56829
-SkyRay King 4x XPL HI, TN40 clone: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55195
-XHP70.2 Maglite 2D: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54791
-SkyRay King 7x XML2, TIR, 8x 18650: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54886

hank
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Interested in any ‘Makes TK happy’ product from Sofirn.

ToyKeeper
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hank wrote:
Interested in any ‘Makes TK happy’ product from Sofirn.

To be clear, I don’t use soda-can lights as much as single-cell lights, because of the increased size and weight. It’s not often I need the extra power and runtime. But size is kind of a relative thing… my mother refers to her Skyray King as “the small one”, even though I consider it pretty large.

Anyway, for a soda-can light, this one is pretty decent. It’s a lot like a Q8, but narrower and has a built-in charger. Plus, with the LH351D I expect it’ll have a nicer beam too. It’d be a good choice for people who frequently want a lot of light for a long time, without having to take the batteries out all the time to charge them.

erlebo
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ToyKeeper wrote:
It’d be a good choice for people who frequently want a lot of light for a long time, without having to take the batteries out all the time to charge them.

That’s right. I will be using mine at work, where I can’t be fiddling around with a charger.

aswang
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Interested in LH351D version as long as they’re not uberly greenish. How about SP36 with BLF lantern style CCT ramping? Those would be nice to have and quite unique for a flashlight.

HONDARIDER
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Interested in a 4000K version only.

AK4
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Заинтересован.

misterpearguy
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Interested in a 4-5000k one.

kkib
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Nguyen wrote:
Interested Tripod socket or lanyard attachment please.

+1

charwinger21
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More interested in the high CRI LH351D.

P220C
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I’m interested in an SP36 with Anduril and an LH351D emitter. Don’t care about the glue.

5000K LH351D 80 CRI = probably buy
4000K LH351D 90 CRI = instabuy

Kalpn
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Interested. This could be my first sofirn.

Yokiamy
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Interested !

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

 

WTS BLF GT

 

voltron88
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Interested in 5000k

joechina
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djozz wrote:
^ the screws need to go somewhere. Like in the Q8, the driver cavity must be reduced in favor of two extensions of the shell that house the screw holes. That implies that the driver cavity must be machined instead of turned (it is not round anymore) which is a bit more expensive. Also the driver lay-out must be re-designed to clear the areas where the driver sits on the protrusions from components.

The thickening of the shell walls where the driver screws go do provide the opportunity to add the tripod hole btw, 90 degrees from switch and USB-port.

What about using long screws going down to the LED shelf without the extensions on the wall? Or using stand offs.
Then you can turn the head.

(Off course not as nice as extensions)

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