[SALE] - Attiny85 MCU's Flashed with host-specific Andúril, with made to order modifications

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

EDIT: I am now offering this service to all those interested. Please PM me.

Hello all, I want to get Anduril in the hands of as many people as possible, because I think it is amazing. When I was first starting out I was so happy to have this community help me figure out how to flash all of my lights to Anduril.

Now I'd like to return the favor, in a few ways.

First, I will help anyone who feels up to flashing their own lights, figure it out. There are plenty of good guides out there, so I won't reinvent the wheel, but feel free to ask me here if you get stuck, and if I or any others can help you, we will.

Second, and perhaps more simple for some people, my personal friends included, I'm providing a service to those who are more comfortable soldering and re-flowing emitters than they are fighting computers and customizing/flashing firmware. I'm offering Attiny85 MCU's, pre-flashed with an Andúril version that is specific to the light you are putting it in. Complete with certain modifications like custom flashing patterns for any auxiliary emitters during lockout, disabling "THERM_HARD_TURBO_DROP", changing the number of clicks to access certain functions, removing certain functions you don't use like strobes and such so you don't have to cycle through them, or any other number of things you might want to change and I can figure out how to change easily enough. I have made some videos describing or showcasing these options in more detail.

It should be noted that none of this would be possible without ToyKeeper and the excellent code she has written. I do not know how to code, I've always wanted to learn. The code she has written is very well laid out, commented frequently, and very clean. This is the only reason I can offer this service, I am merely finding the tidbits she has noted can be changed, and changing them. Or finding other notations of bits that make sense to change around, as I learn more. In order to satisfy the GPL, all source code will be available on Launchpad, please check for your username to find the source files for the MCU's you receive, thank you.

Currently I am only offering this service on the stock lights that are officially supported, as far as I can tell, namely the following:

SUPPORTED LIGHTS:

BLF GT
BLF GT MINI
BLF Q8
EMISAR D1
EMISAR D1S
EMISAR D1S W/ LEXEL AUX BOARD
EMISAR D4
EMISAR D4 219C
EMISAR D4 W/ LEXEL AUX BOARD
EMISAR D4S
EMISAR D4S 219C
FIREFLYS PL47
FIREFLYS ROT66
FIREFLYS ROT66 219C
TLF/BLF FW3A
SKILHUNT H03 W/ LEXEL TA DRIVER

My logic is this: If you can tear apart your light and swap the driver out, or re-flow emitters, you can handle swapping out an MCU. You don't need a hot air station to do it, in fact I've never used mine to do it, although it would probably be easier. I just use a toothpick because it doesn't conduct heat well, stick it under each leg of the MCU one at a time, and gently pry up while applying some heat with a fine tip soldering iron. Once all the legs are up, the MCU is removed. Then you just flux and tin the pads where it was, plop the new MCU down, and tack each leg down with the iron until they are all connected again. It's very easy to do, here is a video as well for anyone who is unsure.

So, you decide what modifications you want on your Anduril light, if any, and I whip up an MCU for you, ship it off to you, and you just swap it in and BOOM: Anduril on your light. MCU's are relatively cheap, so you could technically get a few different versions/types of modifications for your light, and then swap them around until you find the exact one you want. Especially on easy to disassemble lights like the Q8.

CURRENT CONFIG OPTIONS:

LOCKOUT INDICATOR SEQUENCES
HEARTBEAT [DEFAULT]
SOS
CUSTOM MORSE CODE [NAME, INITIALS, OTHER WORDS]
POLICE FLASHERS
4 SIMPLE FLASHES [TO HINT AT UNLOCK SEQUENCE]
CPR BPM [100-120 BPM, TO HELP WITH CPR IN EMERGENCIES]
SHAVE AND A HAIR CUT [TWO BITS]
+ ANY CUSTOM FLASH PATTERN YOU CAN THINK OF, IF IT FITS
OTHER OPTIONS
REMOVE THERM_HARD_TURBO_DROP
REMOVE SPECIFIC STROBE MODES
CHANGE SUNSET MODE TIMER [DEFAULT 60MIN]
CHANGE WHETHER THE AUX EMITTERS ARE ON WHILE MAIN EMITTERS ARE ON
GET RID OF THE BLIPS WHEN RAMPING AND PASSING CHANNEL BOUNDARIES [REGULATED TO UNREGULATED, ETC]
CHANGE AUX EMITTER DEFAULT ACTIVITY. EG: MAKE ROT66 USE AUX EMITTERS IN LOCKOUT MODE, ENABLING FANCY BLINKING
FANCY MOOD MODE FOR LOCKOUT MODE
LANTERN MODE, LIGHT STARTS IN CANDLE MODE BY DEFAULT
+ MORE IN THE FUTURE HOPEFULLY

PRICING:

STOCK ANDURIL FOR SUPPORTED LIGHT, NO CHANGES, PER LIGHT 1+: $4 ea
5+: $3 ea
10+: PM ME
ANDURIL WITH SIMPLE MODIFICATIONS, PER LIGHT/SAME MOD COPIED TO EACH 1+: $5 ea
5+: $4 ea
10+: PM ME
ANDURIL WITH COMPLEX/UNLISTED MODIFICATIONS PM ME

I will test all MCU's with my breadboard driver test bed to ensure that they are fully functional before I send them out.

And I will ship them via USPS. Shipping is included in the price for CONUS. I don't have much experience shipping internationally but please PM me if you are interested in international purchases.

Additionally, please PM me for all purchases.

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I would definitely love a video of just being done. interested in getting into modifying and would love suggestions for a good soldering iron and possibly a kit to start with?

3

Lots of good recommendations here: soldering iron recommendation for simple work

4

I might be interested in BLF Q8 MCU flashed with Andúril. I don’t have any equipment to flash firmware to a MCU. I’ve been meaning to one day buy the stuff and learn how, but it hasn’t happened yet. I may also buy some other versions for future self-built lights. I guess the best way to do that is first decide which flashlight version that you’re offering will be closest to what I’m hoping to build. I don’t have any builds even in planning yet, so no hurry I suppose.

So, is this thread just to gauge interest, or will you be actually flashing and mailing chips soon?

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I'll get one up ASAP! Lots of soldering iron recommendations out there, and I won't claim to have the best answer for you. But I've used this iron for almost two years, and it works great for me. It is compatible with hakko replacement tips, which means you can get cheap replacement tips from China.

Just last month though, I got this iron, and wow do I love it! It's more expensive, but packed with fancy features. The aoyue is just about as good at actually soldering, but the temp control, idle accelerometer, heater molded into the tip, and other good features make it nice to use. Though veterans may balk at the low power or apparent travel size vs desk size nature of the thing, I really like it, and I think its just fine for our purposes. In my humble opinion, of course.

I will update this post with some soldering kit suggestions when I get home tonight!

UPDATE:

Ok, these are a couple of the kits I've done myself, they are very fun. One. Two. They are a little more advanced for beginners though, only because the instructions are horrible, and the picture isn't even right haha.

And these I haven't personally tried, but I would recommend beginning with these, or something like these, to get your skills honed. One. Two. Three. Four. I'm actually buying these right now, they seem fun.

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That’s great! And it’s never too late to learn, once you get everything set up, flashing basic prebuilt Anduril versions isn’t that hard at all.

If you build a light, I may very well be able to mod a firmware for you. Or at least I’d be interested in trying.
If you use a 3 channel TA type driver, like I got from lexel and put in my H03, then it shouldn’t be too hard to modify the FW3A firmware to make it work. At least I don’t think so anyway. Zeroflow showed me how to do it for my H03.

I will update the op to be more clear, yes I am ready to start flashing right away. I’ve only got a half dozen MCUs, but more on the way!

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I would be interested in 6 for BLF Q8 and 3 for EMISAR D4 and 3 for FIREFLYS ROT66 - probably just remove all blinkies except candle & lightening modes

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Interesting. It’s kind of amazing to me that it would be easier to remove and replace an 8-leg chip than to flash new firmware to it.

Anyway, if you’re distributing hardware with open-source firmware on it, it would be a good idea to read the license. Most of it is specifically for distributors.

https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl-3.0.en.html

It’s mostly sections 4, 5, and 6. In a nutshell, it means the sources (including any modified versions) should be available somehow. For verbatim copies it’s usually pretty easy, but for modified versions it can get a little tricky.

9

I can understand it, I remember feeling the same way before learning and being helped to learn by others, how to flash. And now it’s not so daunting anymore, but it certainly was.

Oh I didn’t even think about any of that! Thanks for the heads up, I’m going to read this over and see what I need to do.

Would the entire source need to be available? Or only the modified portions?

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I have updated the OP with a video tutorial for you, and others, so you can see how easy it is to swap an MCU out. Let me know what you think! First time narrating to a camera.

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It depends. For totally unmodified versions, it’s typically sufficient to note that it uses open-source code and link back to the upstream copy in my repository. But for modified versions, it needs all the modifications plus some way to get the rest. It really is up to you, how you want to organize things and how you want to make changes available.

I don’t know what your thoughts are on revision control tools, but using bzr can help a lot with these things because tracking changes is what it’s designed for. It just depends on how you want to do it.

12

Thanks, BeastlyKings, for converting my Q8 to the magnificent current Andúril UI. I now Love this photon bomb. The Tac Strobe in Momentary Mode is the true Light Saber T/K promised!