Emisar D18 introduction

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Yosue
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SP36 is taller, narrower, and much more throwy. Also heats up less so it stays up at high levels longer. Has a built-in charger. Costs significantly less.

D18 is smaller overall, makes a lot more light, comes in much better tints, has a much nicer-looking beam, and is generally higher quality. Also more mod-friendly.

They’re both good; it just depends on what you’re looking for

Thanks TK, you gave me an idea of the differences and usages. I will have to pick either sell the sp36 and get this d18 or keep it and dont buy the d18. If it was your very first “soda can” and dont have more than a zebralight sc63 and a olight s2 baton, which would you choose?

contactcr
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Anyone else’s bezel stick out slightly? On one side of my light for about an inch or 2 the edge of the bezel sticks out enough to catch your finger on the sharp underside.

It also seems like the lens gets some slight wear on it from the optics rubbing against it when the bezel is fully tightened.

Relampago
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contactcr wrote:
Anyone else’s bezel stick out slightly? On one side of my light for about an inch or 2 the edge of the bezel sticks out enough to catch your finger on the sharp underside.

It also seems like the lens gets some slight wear on it from the optics rubbing against it when the bezel is fully tightened.

Just checked mine, and also found that edge of bezel you speak of. I hadn’t noticed it until you mentioned it. I know there has been mention of the lanyard hole placement, I find it to be in the perfect spot. I actually use both pocket clips and lanyards on my lights, one problem I have found is that the alignments don’t very often match thumb placement to the button. The D18 has perfect lanyard to thumb alignment for the way I carry.

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Stereodude
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Has anyone tested the D18 with Sanyo NCR18650GA? I know it will have less initial output, but it shouldn’t heat up as fast and thereby hold it’s output longer.

amars7
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G.P. wrote:
It appears to me that the misalignment is so that the lanyard is positioned nicely if you are using it with your right hand.

Interesting, mine is positioned nicely for left hand use. If only I were left handed…

amars7
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contactcr wrote:
Can anyone confirm exactly which Lisa model of optic is used? I’m considering putting 18× 219b in one. Better still if someone could test fit one

I am 99% positive they are Lisa2 optics, though I can’t figure out which specific model the “standard” throwy optic is. One of them out of my D18 measures 9.9mm diameter by 7.0mm height, not including pins.

The wide optic is, I believe, the 10997 model, or perhaps 11429. I ordered 6 from Hank to mix a little more flood in, but there is no part number or anything.

contactcr
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amars7 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Can anyone confirm exactly which Lisa model of optic is used? I’m considering putting 18× 219b in one. Better still if someone could test fit one

I am 99% positive they are Lisa2 optics, though I can’t figure out which specific model the “standard” throwy optic is. One of them out of my D18 measures 9.9mm diameter by 7.0mm height, not including pins.

The wide optic is, I believe, the 10997 model, or perhaps 11429. I ordered 6 from Hank to mix a little more flood in, but there is no part number or anything.

I ordered 2 different Lisa2 models from Arrow I’ll see if I can tell which the stock one is

contactcr
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From left to right:

  • Stock optic
  • FP13028_LISA2-M-PIN (~20 degree)
  • FP13025_LISA2-W-PIN (~35 degree)

The two I ordered fit 219B with room to spare but still no LH351D. I suspect an XP-L HI, though not supported by ANY Lisa optics, would do better with this optic versus the stock one. I will try to compare a full set of stock optics VS a full set of FP13028_LISA2-M-PIN. The fit looks better even for the SST-20 to be honest..

abbazaba
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Stereodude wrote:
Has anyone tested the D18 with Sanyo NCR18650GA? I know it will have less initial output, but it shouldn’t heat up as fast and thereby hold it’s output longer.

Yes, and they powered the light without issue. I’ve been buying the flattops from Zebralight for years and they worked because the top protrudes past the label.

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abbazaba wrote:
Stereodude wrote:
Has anyone tested the D18 with Sanyo NCR18650GA? I know it will have less initial output, but it shouldn’t heat up as fast and thereby hold it’s output longer.

Yes, and they powered the light without issue. I’ve been buying the flattops from Zebralight for years and they worked because the top protrudes past the label.

This is not a good choice. The current consumption from each battery is 15A (in turbo). This is the voltage drop with this load compared to Samsung 30Q.

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komeko wrote:
abbazaba wrote:
Stereodude wrote:
Has anyone tested the D18 with Sanyo NCR18650GA? I know it will have less initial output, but it shouldn’t heat up as fast and thereby hold it’s output longer.

Yes, and they powered the light without issue. I’ve been buying the flattops from Zebralight for years and they worked because the top protrudes past the label.

This is not a good choice.


It seems a good choice for his requirements which is longer, but slightly lower turbo output which heats up slower. Plus it has extra capacity to run longer at lower levels. Maybe he wants this?

With GA’s, the load on each battery will probably be less than 15A each.

I don’t think GA’s will hurt anything as long as you don’t care about measuring the max turbo lumens.

Stereodude
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komeko wrote:
This is not a good choice. The current consumption from each battery is 15A (in turbo). This is the voltage drop with this load compared to Samsung 30Q.

Yes, I agree it’s not a good choice if I’m bench racing for lumens. I’m curious how much lower the output would be with the GA’s. I’d love to see an output graph of with the GA to see what is given up in Turbo (which I’d rarely use aside from wowing people) in exchange for longer runtime at lower levels.

contactcr
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If you aren’t wowing people with turbo then don’t worry about using a GA. In reality I think the light is capable of pulling 15A per cell like komeko says but in my testing my light is only hitting 10K lumens briefly with a 30Q. So 15A is pretty much the upper limit with a 30Q using this light.

amars7
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Interesting, the flood optics I got from Hank look different than both of those. They seem to be somewhere in the neighborhood of ~60 degrees?

contactcr
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There were wider ones for sure but I got the narrowest two that would fit 219b LEDs

contactcr
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I did this for science but the results are so similar i’m not sure it’s helpful to anyone. The hotspot appears to be ever so slightly less defined and edge of spill slightly cleaner. I thought the efficiency might go up but it appears to produce more or less the same lumens with both optics. I still think XP-L HI might benefit from this larger LED opening but i’m only going to try 219B.

https://www.ledil.com/data/prod/Lisa/13028/13028-ds.pdf

Datasheet has support for other small-ish die emitters: XPG2/3, 219B/C, Oslon Square, E21A, LH351B

OEM / FP13028_LISA2-M-PIN

OEM / FP13028_LISA2-M-PIN

contactcr
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Finished up my D18 219B 45K mod:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1507099#comment-1507099

When is Clemence making a E21A MCPCB for this thing so I can have a floody version?

JasonWW
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contactcr wrote:
Finished up my D18 219B 45K mod:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1507099#comment-1507099

When is Clemence making a E21A MCPCB for this thing so I can have a floody version?


What does 45K stand for? Do you mean 4500° Kelvin? It can’t be 45 thousand lumen.
contactcr
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yes 4500K

I guess a lot of Nichia fans use their terms like this, I left out the ‘sw’:

Nichia 219B R9080 sw45k

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Nice mod, contactcr! Thumbs Up That’s a lot of rosy goodness!

Yes, ‘sw45k’ is Nichia-speak for 4500 Kelvin.

It’s part of the emitter’s ‘color rank’ specification.

Here’s a label from one of the last boxes of 219B emitters from Clemence’s group buy nearly a year ago. Crying

I was fortunate enough to stock up then, and I have about six lights using them. I still have some to spare for future projects, but I still get weepy thinking about my favorite LED being discontinued.

I think I’ll turn on my 219B sw45k Emisar D4 to cheer myself up. Party

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There’s very little Nichia data in my head. I can barely remember all the Cree related data. Lol

Chatika vas Paus
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Has anyone ordered a D18 without LEDs? I am curious about the price.
I would like to put 18× 319A 5000k into it.

contactcr
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Has anyone ordered a D18 without LEDs? I am curious about the price. I would like to put 18× 319A 5000k into it.

First you need to see what replacement optics will fit. The stock ones have such small LED opening almost nothing besides sst fits

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Someone got a quote from Hank without leds, I think they posted it in this thread. It wasn’t a big reduction, $10 less I think.

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I got my emisar d18vn with the osram white 2 mm.. this light is perfect. No green tint at lower mode.. I got 14740 lumen @ turn on. Amazing! Throw is 140Kcd.

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contactcr
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That must have been a nightmare to reflow

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Stereodude wrote:
Has anyone tested the D18 with Sanyo NCR18650GA? I know it will have less initial output, but it shouldn't heat up as fast and thereby hold it's output longer.

When I first got the Emisar D18, I didn't have enough high-drain button-top 18650s to test the D18 with, so I used Sanyo NCR18650GA, which fortunately worked on the D18.

I have since then been able to get a few button-top VTC6, and re-tested the D18.

On an uncalibrated lux meter and doing a simple ceiling bounce test (with fully-charged 3x GA and fully-charged 3x button-top VTC6), the button-top VTC6 has higher lux reading.

 

Below are video beamshots of the D18 (but taken on different nights), using 3x raised-flat-top NCR18650GA, and 3x button-top VTC6 

 

Emisar D18 (custom mixed tint, using 3x Sanyo NCR18650GA medium-drain raised-flat-top 18650)

 

 

Emisar D18 (custom mixed-tint version, using 3x Sony VTC6 high-drain button-top 18650)

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Anyone know if hank will be releasing these with aux lights or lighted switch?

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Hank Wang wrote:

This is how the 3*18350 tube look in the 3D file, short and thick, what do you guys think?


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