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pinkpanda3310
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Monkey King staff

Just so you know where the name came from – Thanks CRX Davie

A little while back I found a pic of a CWF Pele paisley….

OMG! I loved the look of it Love … but not enough to pay that sort of money Sick

I don’t have a 4th axis (but I dream about it) and I don’t reckon I could do any kind of etching that would be up to par so the paisley light remained out of reach for me.

Until now!! I found a ready made tube that can be machined into a torch. I’ve converted 1-2 mechanical mods before but wasn’t intending on going that route again. With the discovery of this one I couldn’t help myself and bought one in gold and one in brass.

Items arrived. I’m gonna work on the gold one first. I’ve since discovered the driver pictured is e-switch and I’ll need to order up some clicky compatible drivers as I’m all out at the moment.

One end will need boring out

While the other end has a rather deep threaded section (to suit the switch they used)

The top section of the vape (I don’t know the techy terminology) seems to have the paisley etched in a different scale, and possibly a stretched/distorted pattern. I’ll try and use it if I can.

After some head scratching and chicken scratching I came up with a plan. No need to see that so I’ll move onto the lathe work. For making the head I’m showing each step with a pic so this might get a bit slow and tedious.

Titanium bar stock

Cut

Thread

O-ring groove

Cooling fins

Drill the end

Bore it out with a step for the driver to sit in

Thread for a driver retaining ring

Roughly work out how where to cut the other end and give it a quick cut

Cut off

Spin it around and mount it to work the other end

Drill it

Because the boring out is not very deep but kind of wide I used tungsten carbide router bit. This makes the base of the hole relatively flat (compared to a conventional drill bit) and much easier to clean up with the boring bar.

You can see I had a little bit of chatter but I was going nice and slow at low revs so it looks worse than it sounded

Finish boring out with the boring bar

Press fit the top section of the vaper. It had a little step part way down the inside so I had to press it on halfway and bore it out some then press it the rest of the way.

Cut it back and think about how to do the next part. This isn’t really a step but I took a pic anyway.

I might’ve missed a pic here. The gold ring was cut back enough to make a thread and o-ring groove. I went with the slightly finer thread of 0.7mm here.

Main part of the head is finished. Still need to make a bezel and driver retaining ring to finish the head.

Edited by: pinkpanda3310 on 03/21/2019 - 07:59
Paul321
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Excellent work! Thumbs Up You may have created a new market, income stream for yourself.

Paul-

Dougiestyle
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I can’t wait to see the final build. Very awesome idea! Good luck with the build. We’re watching…

Ford Prefect
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WOW,
very nice work! will be following this to see the final product.

pinkpanda3310
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Cheers Beer

CRX
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Knew I was good for something Big Smile
Ruyi Jingu Bang Wink

MRsDNF
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Simply orsm. Now we know what we were waiting for and it was worth it. Looking forward to the finish. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Yokiamy
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Pinkpanda, that looks seriously cool. Also it is always nice to see those detailed machining pics and show us your skills as well as the results.

Looking foward for more pictures !

Edited by: sb56637

Spartan
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That looks great. Wish I had your lathe skills!

Why steel?

Moses came from the mountaintop carrying a tablet. The Words were....WITH GREAT LUMENS COMES GREAT REPONSIBILITY.

Firelight2
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Awesome work PinkPanda!!!

Where’s the group buy for the completed light? Grad

pinkpanda3310
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CRX wrote:
Knew I was good for something Big Smile
Ruyi Jingu Bang Wink

Are you saying you’re no good at making/modding lights?? Is that why you need to practice so much ? LOLLOLLOL

Firelight2 wrote:
Awesome work PinkPanda!!!

Where’s the group buy for the completed light? Grad


…and you’re saying you’re gettting a group together to buy one light…? LOLLOLLOL

Lol, just jokes. Thanks guys Beer

.
.
.
.
EDIT- I missed this first time round….

Spartan wrote:
Why steel?

Titanium Crown
gchart
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Daaaayum! That’s beautiful, PP. Can’t wait to see more.

CRX
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
CRX wrote:
Knew I was good for something Big Smile
Ruyi Jingu Bang Wink

Are you saying you’re no good at making/modding lights?? Is that why you need to practice so much ? LOLLOLLOL

I resent that fact! Big Smile
This light should be interesting Thumbs Up
pinkpanda3310
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A little more done today.

I mounted the main tube and was about to start boring when I thought I probably should take a pic

Bored out with the router bit first

Finish boring with the boring bar

Cut the thread and step for the o-ring. I almost had a disaster here. I said to myself ‘remember to change the thread gearing back to 1mm as it’s on 0.7mm from last time’ but I just had to change the cutting bits and set the other stuff and, of course, forgot to change the gearing. DOH! Facepalm So the first pass was at 0.7mm, as it was cutting I could tell something was different by the number of revs it took to move 1mm on the Z axis DRO (digital read out). I have a rough idea of the revs because when I thread I turn at the lowest speed my lathe allows for (80rpm) whilst having a handle mounted to the back end of the spindle. I thread under power until it gets close to the end of thread then I finish by turning the spindle by hand. After changing back to 1mm there was luckily still enough meat on the tube to not affect the final thread.

Damn, that was a lot of explaining. I hope it makes sense. If not the short story is I nearly stuffed it but didn’t Innocent

The reason the thread is all dirty is because of the way I get the male-female ends to match up. When it gets close to the right diameter I slow up and take fine passes, checking with the mating part each time. When it screws on 1 thread or so but is still too tight to go any further then I wipe grinding paste on the parts and work it on by hand. Having the other side mounted in the tail stock collet makes it easier to grab and to work it back and forward. This process is a little slow and tedious but it makes for a tight but smooth feeling thread. When both parts are titanium I have to get the tolerance between the parts closer before I can do this process.

Here it is wiped clean

…and the 2 parts together

Think I’ll work on the bezel next

teacher
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Amazing workmanship!!! . Thumbs Up . Thanks for sharing… Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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KeepingItLight
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Just beautiful!

Thanks for sharing your journey with this project.

MRsDNF
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Sweet. Beer
When I get a thread to start a thread or two I will take a couple of thou off the side of the thread which generally gets the threads nice and tight when screwed together.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

jf_smm
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Holy crap! I normally prefer plain jane work horse lights but this is amazing.

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WOW

 

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

find a short description about my idea here

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

Jack Kellar
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I could read your threads and CRX’s all day, Panda. This is art. For real, I’m already betting it’ll be even prettier than the Ti-Mo.

FmC
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Really nice work, love it! Beer

pinkpanda3310
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MRsDNF wrote:
Sweet. Beer
When I get a thread to start a thread or two I will take a couple of thou off the side of the thread which generally gets the threads nice and tight when screwed together.

So you give it a nudge on the compound slide for the last pass? I’ll give it a go next time.

I did a little more threading tonight (not with the moose method though) and the results weren’t quite what I was hoping for.

I got the titanium out again for the bezel. Bored out to smallest ID of the bezel

Secondary boring for the threaded section

Threading

Parts together

I couldn’t work out if it was the smaller thread (0.7mm) or because both parts were titanium or some other factor but the final thread came out a little loose and quite gritty. It made me wonder if the indexed bit I used was suitable (or too large) for 0.7mm threads. So I got out the thread gauge and put it against the cutting bit. It was only then that I could just make out the bit was chipped Sad

Now that I know I was working with a chipped bit I’ve got half a mind to make it again Sick There is nothing drastically wrong with the one I made, it works, I just think I can do better.

MRsDNF
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Bugger. Tired

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pinkpanda3310
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I wasn’t expecting it but I got time today to do some catch up.

I started afresh with the bezel and made it again. The threads are still not as tight as the head/tube connection but it’s better than before.

Cut-off

Mount it the other way and cut a bevel inside

A little sanding and polishing Love

Test fit. I think I have enough room to fit a glass lens in front of the optic but haven’t seriously measured it yet.

In retrospect I should’ve done a little polishing on the fins before fitting the gold ring but nevermind, I’ll just deal with working around the ring. Not sure if I’ll make the driver retaining ring or the tail next.

After seeing CRX’s E-tail switch I thought that would be perfect for this since I don’t currently have a clicky driver but it would need some head scratching and possibly redesigning the driver space. I don’t want to scrap this head if it doesn’t work out so I think I’ll try it on another light first. Keep this one as a clicky.

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Gustave Flaubert (1821-1880) said “Le bon Dieu est dans le detail.” Meaning that things seem simple at first but are more complex or require more time and effort than expected. The idea is that details are important; whatever one does should be done thoroughly.”

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

pinkpanda3310
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Been busy lately so haven’t had much time to work on this. I came across an issue with the tail. The thread is 0.75mm. My lathe is geared for 0.6 and 0.7 but not 0.75 Crying I measured it and figured there is enough room to fit a sleeve inside the existing tail cap threads.

Removed the original spring and packed it with spacers to hold the threaded section rigid

Mounted in the lathe

Difficult to see but I bored out a section as close to the thread as I dared.

I then cut a piece of titanium to the ID of the tail threads and press fit the two parts together

I then bored out the rest of the threaded section. Luckily the press fit was strong enough to hold it. I was very tentative when getting the ti to size.

Then pressed it the rest of the way

Bored out the ti to fit 18650 cells. Not much space left as you’ll see in the following pics

Protected Panasonic – sticks straight out

30Q – also sticks straight out

I didn’t measure it properly but I reckon the ti is about 0.5mm thick

That was as far as I got this weekend. I think I need to sit down and make a plan for the tail to make sure it can all fit the way I want it to.

Jack Kellar
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That’s gonna be tight, panda. In all senses of the word. Wink

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Good save Thumbs Up

MRsDNF
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Nice recovery. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pinkpanda3310
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Thanks Beer I was pretty worried I was going to screw it up. Firstly when it was only half pressed on it could’ve slipped while boring. Secondly when I pressed it all the way it could’ve over stretched the outside ring and snapped it. I’m pleased with the result otherwise I would be scratching my head thinking of plan C.

MRsDNF
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Plan C is 601 Loctite. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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