Reylight Lan Mokume Gane XP-L HI 5000K - Electronic Tail Switch

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CRX
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Reylight Lan Mokume Gane XP-L HI 5000K - Electronic Tail Switch

LAN Mokume Gane XP-L HI v2 5000K - FET 15+1 D4v2 - 14500 - Electronic Tail Sw - 1300lm.NiMokume Gane copper, brass & nickel body
Cree XP-L HI v2 3A 5000K on copper DTP MCPCB
Hand made glow gasket
OP reflector
ARC glass
Brass pill with added copper heatsink
MTN 15+1 FET driver with D4 ramping firmware
Electronic tail switch
Installed ten 6mm x 1.5mm red tritium vials
Carbon fibre protective case

Length - 96mm
Width - 21mm
Weight - 123g (With 14500 cell)
Max - 1300lm OTF
Max cd - 7700 - (175m Throw)

Runtime graphs using a Windyfire 14500 600mAh cell and a new Vapcell 14500 1000mAh.
Two runs of each cell, one starting on maximum output and another starting around 600lm.

Mokume LAN runtime graph 60°C

Mokume LAN runtime graph

LAN Mokume Gane XP-L HI v2 5000K - FET 15+1 D4v2 - 14500 - Electronic Tail Sw - 1300lm.Ni

I also made a protective carbon fibre felt lined holster & spare cell carrier/ charger for the Mokume LAN.

Lan Mokume Gane & CRX Rotary.LAN Mokume Gane & CRX Rotary

Edited by: CRX on 09/22/2019 - 08:57
pinkpanda3310
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Very cool light Love

What is the electronic tail switch you used?

CRX
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Just one of these momentary fellas from an old laser pointer.

pinkpanda3310
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I don’t really understand. How did you get -bat back to the driver as well as signal from the switch?

CRX
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I have an insulated copper strip running down inside the battery tube, one switch terminal connected to it in the tail and the other connected to the flashlight body. I didn’t have the right materials to make a tube yet.

If you look at the driver pic you will see an additional brass ring sitting on top of it, this has the e.switch wire soldered to it and is insulated from everything else and epoxied in place.
The copper strip (you can see the end of it just poking out) running from the tail connects with this when the head is screwed on.
Here’s a Novatac 18350 mod with the same principle.

pinkpanda3310
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Ah, so skinny (unprotected) batteries fit but not the fatter ones? Nice concept. I should have a go at something like that one day.

Thanks Beer

CRX
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I don’t need protected in the LAN and you could probably fit a protected in the Novatacs with the strips running side by side as there is a gap. Not sure about length though, can’t remember.
It’s quite simple, just a matter of making things the right size

Slayer1
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This is a keeper mate! Thumbs Up Beer

MtnDon
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Very nice. Thanks for the pictures.

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Love the light and the mod CRX. Beer

pp, you should have a go. Smile

 

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Nice Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

CRX
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MtnDon wrote:
Very nice. Thanks for the pictures.

My pleasure Thumbs Up
MRsDNF wrote:
Love the light and the mod CRX. Beer
pp, you should have a go. Smile

Thanks mate Beer
MascaratumB wrote:
Nice Thumbs Up

Yeah, so that is the sort of setup we were talking about the D10 with the e-switch connection going to a contact disc on the driver.

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CRX wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Nice Thumbs Up

Yeah, so that is the sort of setup we were talking about the D10 with the e-switch connection going to a contact disc on the driver.

I looked at the brass ring in the driver and thought of that, but then remembered the Novatac and maybe other mods you’ve made and left me a doubt, as you use the copper sheet throughout the body!
Still, once you used a switch instead and not a Piston Driver System, how did you do it in the pill/driver/ring side?
That still bothers me in the intention of modding my D10, as I’m afraid I can’t make the right connection on the “head side” Oops

This is definitely a keeper, the light is gorgeous Love

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

CRX
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From how I’m building the D10 with e-switch in my mind you would do the same as I have done here with the thin e-switch contact ring fixed on top of your new driver, you would have the switch contact ring made so it sits under the movable sprung split ring, insulated from everything else so only when you press the piston, it presses down on the sprung split ring until it contacts the e-switch disc thus connecting to ground.
Should work I think, but I could be missing something as I don’t have the light to ponder over, like I said it is tricky and you would need to watch how much reduced piston switch travel there is due to the extra contact ring on the driver which is why I suggested stripping the original driver, but you will have a better idea when you have the light.
The stock D10 is working in the exact same way with a separate switch contact ring under the moving split ring.

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Nice mod with the E-switch Thumbs Up

CRX wrote:
I didn’t have the right materials to make a tube yet.

So you are up for the challenge?? Innocent Silly

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Thanks for the answer CRX! I already have the light, but I didn’t have the time (nor the driver yet) to mess with it!
When I “dismantle” it, I’ll test and take some photos so that I can manage to see if I got the “whole picture” you’ve mentioned to me!
I will not bother you more with this till then Silly
And thanks for your hints and inspiration with these mods Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

CRX
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FmC wrote:
Nice mod with the E-switch Thumbs Up

CRX wrote:
I didn’t have the right materials to make a tube yet.

So you are up for the challenge?? Innocent Silly


Haha Big Smile Thumbs Up
I can make a tube for carrying a switch signal inside the battery tube from 0.2mm copper sheet no problem but I wouldn’t do it for making something like a hand made rotary controlled light made from 1.5mm titanium. Sheesh. Wink
You got yours yet?
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CRX wrote:
You got yours yet?

Still waiting Mail

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Congratulations, what a beautiful light. I’m curious how it’ll age too. I’m sure it’ll look better and better especially if its carried a lot.

lumenzilla
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CRX wrote:
From how I’m building the D10 with e-switch in my mind you would do the same as I have done here with the thin e-switch contact ring fixed on top of your new driver, you would have the switch contact ring made so it sits under the movable sprung split ring, insulated from everything else so only when you press the piston, it presses down on the sprung split ring until it contacts the e-switch disc thus connecting to ground. Should work I think, but I could be missing something as I don’t have the light to ponder over, like I said it is tricky and you would need to watch how much reduced piston switch travel there is due to the extra contact ring on the driver which is why I suggested stripping the original driver, but you will have a better idea when you have the light. The stock D10 is working in the exact same way with a separate switch contact ring under the moving split ring. !{width:99%}https://i.imgur.com/eJzQR7O.jpg!

can you advise what driver are you using?
thanks.

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Lovey light, and great mods as ever.

CRX
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lumenzilla wrote:
CRX wrote:
From how I’m building the D10 with e-switch in my mind you would do the same as I have done here with the thin e-switch contact ring fixed on top of your new driver, you would have the switch contact ring made so it sits under the movable sprung split ring, insulated from everything else so only when you press the piston, it presses down on the sprung split ring until it contacts the e-switch disc thus connecting to ground. Should work I think, but I could be missing something as I don’t have the light to ponder over, like I said it is tricky and you would need to watch how much reduced piston switch travel there is due to the extra contact ring on the driver which is why I suggested stripping the original driver, but you will have a better idea when you have the light. The stock D10 is working in the exact same way with a separate switch contact ring under the moving split ring. !{width:99%}https://i.imgur.com/eJzQR7O.jpg!

can you advise what driver are you using?
thanks.


This was a discussion about how to fit a new ramping driver into a Nitecore D10.

Essexman wrote:
Lovey light, and great mods as ever.

Wait, there is more… Big Smile
Protective carbon fibre felt lined holster & spare cell carrier/ charger.

pinkpanda3310
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Wow, that holster is way cool Love Thumbs Up

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Thanks Beer
Yeah I’m feared ae droppin this light Big Smile

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WoW !

Regards Xandre

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CRX wrote:
This was a discussion about how to fit a new ramping driver into a Nitecore D10.

I’ve been looking for D10 driver’s replacement but still no luck.
I thought you can advise the driver name so I can try it too.

Thanks.

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Just when you think you’ve seen all the awesome there is to see, you make something more awesome!

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Wow, fantastic work CRX! I wish I had the talent to do stuff like this. I am OK living vicariously through you, because you provide so many thorough details and photos. Also, love that holster you made for the Lan Mokume. Thumbs Up

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electricjelly wrote:
Congratulations, what a beautiful light. I'm curious how it'll age too. I'm sure it'll look better and better especially if its carried a lot.

After one week of me using & handling the light.LAN Mokume Gane XP-L HI v2 5000K - FET 15+1 D4v2 - 14500 - Electronic Tail Sw - 1300lm.7D

LAN Mokume Gane XP-L HI v2 5000K - FET 15+1 D4v2 - 14500 - Electronic Tail Sw - 1300lm.7D

LAN Mokume Gane XP-L HI v2 5000K - FET 15+1 D4v2 - 14500 - Electronic Tail Sw - 1300lm.7D

lumenzilla wrote:

I've been looking for D10 driver's replacement but still no luck.
I thought you can advise the driver name so I can try it too.

Thanks.

I don't know of a direct replacement, maybe a modified FET + 7135 Driver - 15mm - MTN-15DDm  would work but like I said you would need to add an e-switch contact on top of the board, this is what I installed in the Mokume LAN.

xevious wrote:
Wow, fantastic work CRX! I wish I had the talent to do stuff like this. I am OK living vicariously through you, because you provide so many thorough details and photos. Also, love that holster you made for the Lan Mokume. :THUMBS-UP:

Thanks mate Thumbs Up 

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CRX wrote:
I don’t know of a direct replacement, maybe a modified FET + 7135 Driver – 15mm – MTN-15DDm  would work but like I said you would need to add an e-switch contact on top of the board, this is what I installed in the Mokume LAN.

Thanks for your explanation. Loud and clear.