4/11/19 Important UPDATE! Cree XHP50.2 Three Volt!! Convoy C8+ 3000 Lumen

EDIT: Important update. On 4/5/19 the output and CD (range) testing I did were flawed. The battery in my light meter was very low and I did not catch it until now. This caused the readings I took to be significantly off. After changing the battery in the meter, double checking calibration and retesting the lights I am posting the updated lumen outputs below. I do not have updated CD testing at this time, however because of the meter issue it is likely that those readings were high also. I am unable to change the title or original description in my Ebay Auction listist for the lights, but I added this information to the “edit” section. I greatly apologize for the mistake and any inconvenience this has caused.

Light…………….Mistake Lumens………….Revised Lumens……………………%Out of wack
Factory C8+…………………….998…………………………….818………………………………19.80%
C8+ Mosfet……………………1688……………………………1216………………………………32.50%
50.2 Mosfet……………………3441……………………………2991………………………………11.00%
50.2 Mos dedome……………2943……………………………2581………………………………13.10%

Again I am very sorry for any confusion or trouble this has caused!

Matt

Hi all,
.
.

The awesomeness of an XHP50.2 is now available in 3 volt, so I thought I’d build out a few lights. This LED is amazing!

.
.
What would you like to see this emitter in?

Do you have any other tail switch recommendations that will work for a longer life span? A drop in type.

I’d like to see it in some small lights, all the way down to 10180. :slight_smile:

What is a driver used? MCPCB?
Thx,
Mike

Well, this LED is justified when you reach 8+ Amps… So it doesn’t really make sense.
If you want a 10180 hotrod light, an SST40 is enough

I would love to see XHP 70.2 in Convoy S11.

I would love to see XHP 70.2 in 3V versions

If you want a true drop in no soldering required then get the above. It’s basically the same thing but it has a genuine Omten switch (a non-convoy C8 clone may not) and it’s bypassed already so no spring problems.

Nah, lower Vf of XHP50.2 will overdrive the cell more resulting in significantly more power. From djozz SST-40 has 3V at 2A while XHP50.2 has 3V at 4A (calculated down from 6V).
A tad higher efficacy won’t hurt either. At 1A SST-40 does about 500 lm while XHP50.2 about 550.

Excellent,Evolving,Educational,Entertaining and Enjoyable! :+1: :smiley: :sunglasses:

I have some on the way from Cutter to go in an S2+.

s2+ needs some current limiting to be “useful”, IMHO. Way too hot, way too quick. It’s similar to a triple XPL build, fet driven, in the same host.

Not that I say don’t do it, i’m not taking mine apart, but… I promptly put it in the box next to my triple s2+ and triple s6, which never get used.

Nice mod, thanks for sharing, I wonder how would that look on the new FT03…

Do you have a recomendation that requires assembly that would be better?

Not really. Myself and other modders use Omten switches bypassed at high current often without much trouble.

I really want one in an Eagle Eye X6 host, but I know it would get very hot.

You can put high current over those switches for a while(not sure if genuine otman es better than factory c8+ or not), and the bypass does help (keeps the spring from loosing is stretch). Most of the time when your running this light it would not be at 13.5 amps, and when it was, only in short bursts. So if your not depending on that light for life or death it might be worth a shot. I don’t know of a better “easy” switch option this small. Making a switch out of a Judco like DellSuperman does for surefire would be the closest thing I can think of. Available: Judco 10 amp Switch for Surefire Z41 tailcaps | Candle Power Flashlight Forum

I have some springs from BlueSwordM that I could put on it. May handle the current for a little longer. Your right, I wouldn’t be running this on high too often. So it should be ok.

The springs are not the limiting factor here, but the switch.
Even if you were to put dual BeCu springs on the PCB, the

You could try and bypass the switch itself with some 24/22AWG wire, but you would lose selection outside of turning the tailcap.

That’s the only other way, other than building a FET switch.

One thing to be careful of when u swap the spring is getting the switch too hot. It will melt if u heat the board too much.

You can desolder the switch before if you want to be extra careful or put metal clips on the switch legs to soak some heat