TK's Emisar D18 review -- 3x18650 photon grenade

277 posts / 0 new
Last post
ohbreeeezy
ohbreeeezy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 09/26/2017 - 16:07
Posts: 167
Location: California

Does this need a high drain battery?

beastlykings
beastlykings's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/29/2017 - 17:06
Posts: 193
Location: Michigan, USA
ohbreeeezy wrote:
Does this need a high drain battery?

For the best performance, yes. I believe 30Qs or VTC6s are recommended. I went with VTC6s, my first set ever.

ichoderso
ichoderso's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 6 hours ago
Joined: 09/12/2011 - 05:18
Posts: 105
Location: Germany

have published some pictures in the german forum:

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/neu-emisar-d18-mit-14-000-lum...

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6308
Location: Holland

None of my batteries fit... lol.. You really need a high positive nipple otherwise it doesnt make contact.. I'm not a fan of doing it this way! But I guess that is the only cheap solution to reverse polarity protection? 

HONDARIDER
HONDARIDER's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/22/2018 - 11:45
Posts: 933
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas

I will have one of these but it may take a while for me since my wife continuously gripes about me buying lights. May have to go a month without a purchase just so it doesn’t seem so bad to her. She doesn’t understand.

AEDe
AEDe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 12/01/2016 - 12:07
Posts: 594
Location: Moscow

ChibiM wrote:

But I guess that is the only cheap solution to reverse polarity protection? 


It is almost the only posible protection for parallel battery connection.
ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6308
Location: Holland

AEDe wrote:
ChibiM wrote:

But I guess that is the only cheap solution to reverse polarity protection? 

It is almost the only posible protection for parallel battery connection.

Ok.. Just sad that not even my "normal button top" batteries work.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 10 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10310
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

I don’t have many unprotected button-top cells, so I did the same thing I usually do when I need something like that… solder-blob the top of flat-top cells.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

Chibi, solder blob the pad so the button top will work. Wink

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3987
Location: California

To make button tops usually I cut up some copper sheet into a tiny disk and solder that on top with solder paste. I leave the iron on just long enough for the paste to melt.

I find that copper wears better than bare solder when its rubbing against springs and other parts of a battery compartment.

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6308
Location: Holland

Good stuff.. 

TK says: solder cells

DB says: solder the pad of the driver?

Firelight says: solder copper discs unto the battery.

 

I damaged the red ring already... but might go the solder blob way/copper disc Smile

 

btw: what did you guys measure in max output?

 

Mine goes up to 7500 Lumens.. I have the 4000K version (NW). 

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12478
Location: Houston Texas

ChibiM wrote:

DB says: solder the pad of the driver?

I don’t think he means solder the giant brass ring. That’s too big for most soldering irons. Plus it would need to be filed flat afterwards (I assume) and that requires even more unnecessary work.

Perhaps it’s best to remove the plastic(?) rings and sand them down just a little. It sounds like they may be a bit too tall.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

komeko
komeko's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 394
Location: Poland

My will have this mix:
XP-L HI 3A 6 pieces
XP-L HI 5D 3 pieces
XP-L HI 1A 1 piece
Nichia 219CT 4 pieces
XP-G2 S4 3D 4 pieces
I would like to achieve the color of 4800K and Duv zero or slightly under BBL.

I wonder how many lumens it will generate. I invented such a system:

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6308
Location: Holland

JasonWW wrote:
ChibiM wrote:
DB says: solder the pad of the driver?
I don't think he means solder the giant brass ring. That's too big for most soldering irons. Plus it would need to be filed flat afterwards (I assume) and that requires even more unnecessary work. Perhaps it's best to remove the plastic(?) rings and sand them down just a little. It sounds like they may be a bit too tall.

I might just remove the whole red ring. 

If more people have problems with this I feel Hank should take some action and lessen the height of the ring.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2955
Location: US
komeko wrote:
My will have this mix: XP-L HI 3A 6 pieces XP-L HI 5D 3 pieces XP-L HI 1A 1 piece Nichia 219CT 4 pieces XP-G2 S4 3D 4 pieces

Will the Vf in these be close enough to operate correctly?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

I was thinking of a carrier when I said to solder blob the pads, sorry.

TK showed how to pop the ring off the battery contact side of the driver to gain access to the screws, if this ring is removed and sanded down some the cells should work fine (you’ll have to monitor the height as you sand) the ring is made from the same fiberglass style material as the pcb of the driver. It can be left off, disabling reverse cell protection. You would then have to make absolutely certain you never drop a cell in the tube backwards.

komeko
komeko's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 394
Location: Poland

Only nichia stands out from the rest, so if there is a problem with her, I will put something else. I have all the LEDs, so I do not risk anything. It is worth a try.

As for protection, I abolished it long ago. In M43, I got rid of the ring and cartridge in the central part. I do not have protection (as in all my other flashlights) but I can use any batteries.

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 10 sec ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10310
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

komeko wrote:
My will have this mix:
XP-L HI 3A 6 pieces
XP-L HI 5D 3 pieces
XP-L HI 1A 1 piece
Nichia 219CT 4 pieces
XP-G2 S4 3D 4 pieces
I would like to achieve the color of 4800K and Duv zero or slightly under BBL.

I wonder how many lumens it will generate. I invented such a system:

That’s probably three different Vf curves for the three different emitter types… and half of the emitters aren’t evenly spaced. You might get a better result by just mixing 12 × 3A and 6 × 5D.

komeko
komeko's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 394
Location: Poland

As the effect will be bad, I will do a mix with 9x XP-L HI 3A and 9x XP-L HI 5D

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

beastlykings
beastlykings's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/29/2017 - 17:06
Posts: 193
Location: Michigan, USA

As far as removing the ring goes, why not? The Q8 doesn’t have any reverse polarity protection, does it? Same thing, no? If my copper tabbed cells don’t fit, I may be removing that ring.

Flashaholics
Flashaholics's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 04/05/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 829
Location: Wakefield

I hated my Nichia M43, the UI was the worst I’ve ever used, the button glowed any colour it wanted and the tint was pure green nastiness.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

Omega_17
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 18 min ago
Joined: 06/02/2013 - 16:56
Posts: 989
Location: France

Why there is not a magnet and aux leds like on the D4S? Otherwise its an excellent light.
I understand the magnet would be very heavy and expensive.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?


Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…

komeko
komeko's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 12/21/2017 - 14:26
Posts: 394
Location: Poland

And I’m glad that there are no additional auxillary LED’s. I turned them off completely in D4s.

Click on:        ANSI WHITE

Click on:        MY COLLECTION

Click on:        Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w

G.P.
G.P.'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 days ago
Joined: 11/11/2018 - 12:49
Posts: 82
Location: Canada

DB Custom wrote:
With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?

Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…


Lexal has been able to squeeze aux LEDs into every other Emisar light. I’m sure it could be done on the biggest one, especially if it was designed into the board from the beginning. They would still glow up through the lenses, or use an unpainted clear or opaque material for the cover plate.
DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

The Optic is housed in a black plastic holder, an auxillary LED on the board would not bleed up into the TIR for this reason.

Hank uses a black anodized aluminum cover plate, again no light would escape through this. Machining a polycarbonate cover piece would be much trickier and prone to scratches that most people would surely complain about.

I would have thought everyone would at the very least look at the photo’s TK took…

chinooker
chinooker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 12/16/2015 - 13:27
Posts: 1668
Location: mid left coast

maybe have it pulse to your voice…or music?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

beastlykings
beastlykings's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/29/2017 - 17:06
Posts: 193
Location: Michigan, USA

Would aux have been nice as an option? Sure. But I bet it would’ve raised the price do to the extra difficulty already mentioned.

I’m sure someone will figure out a way to rig it up, or something similar anyway. Lexel is probably already contemplating how to do it.

If nobody comes up with anything, I’ll just do the HAL 9000 lol

G.P.
G.P.'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 days ago
Joined: 11/11/2018 - 12:49
Posts: 82
Location: Canada

DB Custom wrote:
The Optic is housed in a black plastic holder, an auxillary LED on the board would not bleed up into the TIR for this reason.

Hank uses a black anodized aluminum cover plate, again no light would escape through this. Machining a polycarbonate cover piece would be much trickier and prone to scratches that most people would surely complain about.

I would have thought everyone would at the very least look at the photo’s TK took…


In the pics it looked like G10 composite to me, not aluminum. G10 would allow aux LEDs to glow through nicely, and I don’t see how scratching would be an issue with it being under the lens. If aluminum has to be used for some reason, additional holes could be drilled for the AUX LEDs to shine through.

I’ve seen the pics. It’s hard to tell without a light in my hands, but it looks like some light would still get up between the lenses and the lens holder plate. Light could maybe get up into the lens reflectors too (like Lexel has done with the D1 and D1s). Can’t tell from pics how tight the tolerances are.

I get it if you don’t want/like aux LEDs, but these issues aren’t that difficult to overcome.

(Edit: taking an even closer look, the lens holder plate still looks like g10 to me. Review also states that it is “thin pcb”.)

Pages