I am thinking about printing driver circuit @ home. Am I crazy?

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YuvalS
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I am thinking about printing driver circuit @ home. Am I crazy?

I am planning to DIY print driver circuit, using acids.
Have you ever tried it? 
Can you share some tips? mainly regarding the layout (width of wires etc.) 

mrheosuper
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Why do you think it’s crazy?

People have been making PCB at home for years.

There are a lot of methods, but my favorite one is toner transfer and using CNC

Forgot my pen

YuvalS
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Unfortunately I don't have CNC.
I don't think it is crazy but also not sure if the thin copper layer is enough for high currents.  

bansuri
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long ago I’d make PCBs from copper clad panels from radio shack. There was a “magic” marker (like a Sharpie) you’d use to cover the sections you wanted to be your traces then you’d use acid to remove the rest of the copper. Modern methods probably are much different but may still rely on removal rather than addition.
Watching this thread with interest because I too have wondered if I was crazy to think such things. There are LOTS of flashlight related PCBs I’d like to make.
Thanks for putting this thread out there!

BlueSwordM
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Eh, it’s actually not very hard.

What you need:

1. Copper chloride.
2. A chemically resistant marker to trace the PCB, or something else, like a laser printer etch.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

patmurris
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Nothing crazy about making your own PCB at home with chemicals… that was common a couple decades ago.

However, it might prove challenging to hand draw fine and precise traces to accommodate modern surface mounted components, not mentioning double sided boards. Still, if you can use some digital transfer/printing it would be doable. Cutting the board round and clean is another part of the challenge.

Did you search YT and else?

Lexel
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patmurris wrote:
Nothing crazy about making your own PCB at home with chemicals… that was common a couple decades ago.

However, it might prove challenging to hand draw fine and precise traces to accommodate modern surface mounted components, not mentioning double sided boards. Still, if you can use some digital transfer/printing it would be doable. Did you search YT and else?

no hand drawing you can do toner transfer method

problem is its one layer without viases or holes

and most drivers have to be double sided one side spring and ground ring other components

moderator007
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I seen a few people here make their own boards at home. I remember one being a 17mm board that was amazing for a homemade PCB. I don’t remember where it was though. I was going to try this method but I never got around to it.

YuvalS
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patmurris wrote:
Cutting the board round and clean is another part of the challenge

 

Lexel wrote:
problem is its one layer without viases or holes

 

It is for headlamp so no need to be round and I think I can use only one layer since I have a lot of area.
Still my question is how wide the wires should be.

kikkoman
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YuvalS wrote:
Still my question is how wide the wires should be.

Signal traces can be as thin as you manage to print/transfer/etch them reliably, imperfect toner coverage and sharp corners can mess with very thin traces.
Current-carrying traces – as wide as the layout permits. I try not to go below 2mm for 3A loads (and I usually tin-plate everything).

You should look up one of those dos-and-don’ts for good layout practice to save you some trouble

YuvalS
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Thx Kikkoman

Lexel
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usually fab can do 150mil very reliable, for hand edging I would use 250mil

YuvalS
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Lexel wrote:
usually fab can do 150mil very reliable, for hand edging I would use 250mil

 

Is it the same thickness? 

Lexel
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YuvalS wrote:

Lexel wrote:
usually fab can do 150mil very reliable, for hand edging I would use 250mil

 


Is it the same thickness? 

this is 1OZ copper thickness ro 35um

2 Oz or 3 Oz copper would need a bit more

kikkoman
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Lexel wrote:
usually fab can do 150mil very reliable, for hand edging I would use 250mil

Wait, you mean µm.
mil = thou(sandth of an inch) = 25,4µm

Yes 250µm is totally possible and sometimes needed for routing out packages like 0,5mm pitch SON, although if you don’t have to obey the fab’s design rules like minimum clearances you can easily run 0,4mm traces under 0603 resistors, so you don’t have to make things too hard for yourself.

Lexel
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kikkoman wrote:
Lexel wrote:
usually fab can do 150mil very reliable, for hand edging I would use 250mil

Wait, you mean µm.
mil = thou(sandth of an inch) = 25,4µm

Yes 250µm is totally possible and sometimes needed for routing out packages like 0,5mm pitch SON, although if you don’t have to obey the fab’s design rules like minimum clearances you can easily run 0,4mm traces under 0603 resistors, so you don’t have to make things too hard for yourself.

250µm