FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

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Nev
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It would be good if it were just that , I haven’t bothered soldering it back on because only two leds are working properly ,so I’m waiting on Neal to see if he can send me a new head.

teacher
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Unloco wrote:
Fubs261 wrote:
I’m not quite sure how I can post pictures on here, but here’s pictures of a comparison of the two heads.

https://imgur.com/a/VGJHcgc

I think I may have found the reason why one isn’t working.

OMG!! Who made them?


:?: :?: Question
“Who made” what??

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Nev
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Unloco wrote:
Fubs261 wrote:
I’m not quite sure how I can post pictures on here, but here’s pictures of a comparison of the two heads.

https://imgur.com/a/VGJHcgc

I think I may have found the reason why one isn’t working.


OMG!! Who made them?

A chineese person

hank
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“blinky” memory. Shut off on bike strobe…turns on in bike strobe

Huh. For me that would be a valued optional feature, please post if you find there’s a way to set that up.
Not that it should always do that, but for pedestrian safety in crosswalks I do that “strobe on … stun oncoming drivers …. scuttle across the street …. strobe off ….” a lot.

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hank wrote:
Quote:
“blinky” memory. Shut off on bike strobe…turns on in bike strobe

Huh. For me that would be a valued optional feature, please post if you find there’s a way to set that up.

That’s the default. It remembers which strobe was used last, so a “click, click, hold” from off goes back to whichever strobe-group mode you left it in.

For street-crossing purposes, the bike flasher is probably appropriate… and it can be accessed from off within about a second if it was the last strobe-group mode used.

teacher
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CRX wrote:
Looks like the old twist & break.
There is no real play in the wires with the FW3A so when screwing the head (bezel) on you need to make sure the optic/ MCPCB stays put and doesn’t rotate with the part you’re screwing on.
+1 …. Quoted with picture so this good info won’t be lost right away in the thread.

.

EDIT: head (bezel)

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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saypat
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so, we need another warning card now?

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saypat wrote:
so, we need another warning card now?
Not really. This applies to any single, triple, quad, or other MCPCB if it is not fixed in place.
This is not just a FW3A phenomenon.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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saypat
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is the MCPCB on the FW3A fixed in place? Do I need to worry about anything when unscrewing the head? If the retaining ring is tight, do I need to worry about anything? We shouldn’t have to worry about taking the tailcap off, or changing cells, or, or ….. in my opinion. I don’t worry about that on any other lights I have.

JasonWW
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saypat wrote:
is the MCPCB on the FW3A fixed in place? Do I need to worry about anything when unscrewing the head? If the retaining ring is tight, do I need to worry about anything? We shouldn’t have to worry about taking the tailcap off, or changing cells, or, or ….. in my opinion. I don’t worry about that on any other lights I have.

The mcpcb is not fixed in place, there are no anti rotation screws.
Head is fine to unscrew.
The tail cap should not be unscrewed.
Change the battery by unscrewing the head.

BTW, the optics and mcpcb are only effected if you try to unscrew the bezel on the head, which is not recommended. This is seperate from the head itself. You might be confusing these two things.

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teacher
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saypat wrote:

1. is the MCPCB on the FW3A fixed in place?
2. Do I need to worry about anything when unscrewing the head?
3. If the retaining ring is tight, do I need to worry about anything?
4. We shouldn’t have to worry about taking the tailcap off,
5. or changing cells,
6. or, or ….. in my opinion.
7. I don’t worry about that on any other lights I have.

1. No
2. No
3. No
4. Nothing to “worry” about. Just keep it tight & leave it alone. If you do take it off, put it back on and tighten it… as with any light.
5. Not a thing to worry about here either. Take the head off, change the battery, put the head back on, tighten the head.
6. Not sure what you mean in this one???
7. Nothing to worry about in the FW3A either.

A mountain is being made of a molehill by some concerning the FW3A.

It is the same as any other light:

  • If the tailcap in not tight….. it will not work.
  • If the head is not tight…. it will not work.
  • If you put the battery in correctly….. the light will work.
  • Sometimes a True DOA happens.

  • As with any light, if you remove the bezel & the MCPCB is not fixed; when you screw the bezel back on if the MCPCB &/or Optic turn with the bezel… a wire may well be pulled loose.
  • If the bezel is fixed on a light and certain type centering rings turn while tightening the bezel…. the LED may be sheared from the MCPCB.

This is just all normal stuff that applies to ANY light, nothing more.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Fubs261
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Yes, that would definitely make it not work. I’ve now seen two like that.

I can’t quite tell from the picture if the solder came off the pad, or if the pad came off the PCB. In the former case, it should be easy to fix with a soldering iron. In the latter case, you probably need a new PCB. But in any case, this would probably be a good time to ask Neal for a replacement.

I sent Neal an email yesterday but haven’t received a response yet. I’ll make sure to request for replacement/return when he does reply, now that I’ve found the problem. This is the first time I’ve taken apart the head like that. It must have arrived like that, since it was never operational.

If you guys need better photos or the original, unedited photos for reference in this thread, I can go ahead and post/send them to you guys!

hank
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Quote:
no anti rotation screws

Alas, those used to be a feature, which some of y’all are too young to recollect.

EDIT: djozz described one here, around the time the assemblers forgot what the holes were for; they started showing up misplaced and eventually not even threaded, then quit appearing at all.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1456435#comment-1456435

Circuit boards used to come with notches, the screwheads appeared in the notches, and the board wouldn’t turn.

Saved a nickel apiece by eliminating that step of the construction, perhaps trusting the thermal goop to be glue.

Ah, I know I’m a fossil remembering back when they used to build these things by hand.

JasonWW
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hank wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
no anti rotation screws

Alas, those used to be a feature, which some of y’all are too young to recollect.

Circuit boards used to come with notches, the screwheads appeared in the notches, and the board wouldn’t turn.

Saved a nickel apiece by eliminating that step of the construction, perhaps trusting the thermal goop to be glue.

Ah, I know I’m a fossil remembering back when they used to build these things by hand.


This is sarcasm, in case anyone thought he was serious. Party

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JasonWW wrote:
BTW, the optics and mcpcb are only effected if you try to unscrew the bezel on the head, which is not recommended. This is seperate from the head itself. You might be confusing these two things.

Wait… by “bezel” I understand this to be the front most piece on the light. You need to remove that to get access to the optic. So why would it be not recommended? I’ve removed it about a dozen times thus far to experiment with different optics. No problems. I do not get any MCPCB rotation going on.
hank
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> anti-rotation screws
as described by djozz here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1456435#comment-1456435

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xevious wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BTW, the optics and mcpcb are only effected if you try to unscrew the bezel on the head, which is not recommended. This is seperate from the head itself. You might be confusing these two things.

Wait… by “bezel” I understand this to be the front most piece on the light. You need to remove that to get access to the optic. So why would it be not recommended? I’ve removed it about a dozen times thus far to experiment with different optics. No problems. I do not get any MCPCB rotation going on.

This front bezel gets a lot of folks in trouble. It depends on the light, though so some companies just glue it shut. Some lights have optics that sit on top of the mcpcb and if the optics get twisted you can dedome all your leds.

In the case of the FW3A, removing the bezel can twist the wires off the mcpcb. I didn’t know this was a possibility until just now. So we should all use caution when loosening and tightening the bezel and it’s probably a good idea to apply some downward pressure on the lens to keep it from rotating.

It’s like TK says, the more you take a light apart and put it back together the greater the chance you’ll break it. Silly

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hank wrote:
Ah, I know I’m a fossil remembering back when they used to build these things by hand.

Ah, just noticed Berkley……….. spent a few months there in ….. probably ’68. ‘Spare changing’ on Telegraph Ave and sleeping in Peoples Park in a ’59 Pontiac someone gave me in Huntington Beach. Those were the days~~

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

teacher
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xevious wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BTW, the optics and mcpcb are only effected if you try to unscrew the bezel on the head, which is not recommended. This is seperate from the head itself. You might be confusing these two things.

1. Wait… by “bezel” I understand this to be the front most piece on the light.
2. You need to remove that to get access to the optic.
3. So why would it be not recommended?
4.I’ve removed it about a dozen times thus far to experiment with different optics.
5. No problems.
6. I do not get any MCPCB rotation going on.
1. Yes, correct.
2. Yes, correct.
3. Because some people never pay attention to any detail & would screw it up. So.. it is “not recommended”. If you do it anyway:
……. a. You hopefully know how to properly do the simple procedure.
……. b. If you break something, that is on you.
4. OK… good deal.
5. Even better.
6. Great! But just because ‘you’ got no rotation of the MCPCB, Does Not mean it cannot happen.
And when it does happen, and ‘you’ are not aware of it…. things can & will break.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Coscar wrote:
hank wrote:
Ah, I know I’m a fossil remembering back when they used to build these things by hand.

Ah, just noticed Berkley……….. spent a few months there in ….. probably ’68. ‘Spare changing’ on Telegraph Ave and sleeping in Peoples Park in a ’59 Pontiac someone gave me in Huntington Beach. Those were the days~~


Berkeley was interesting back then. I still remember going to classes with all the National Guard and police walking around. And being teargassed was…….interesting; especially when they used a jeep spraying teargas out of it and being stuck in traffic.

9mm/40cal/45cal bullets and large/small pistol primers available for sale in San Francisco Bay area

teacher
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SIGShooter wrote:
Coscar wrote:
hank wrote:
Ah, I know I’m a fossil remembering back when they used to build these things by hand.

Ah, just noticed Berkley……….. spent a few months there in ….. probably ’68. ‘Spare changing’ on Telegraph Ave and sleeping in Peoples Park in a ’59 Pontiac someone gave me in Huntington Beach. Those were the days~~


Berkeley was interesting back then. I still remember going to classes with all the National Guard and police walking around. And being teargassed was…….interesting; especially when they used a jeep spraying teargas out of it and being stuck in traffic.

I guess “interesting” is one word for that….. ‘sucks’ seems more appropiate to me however. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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SIGShooter
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teacher wrote:
SIGShooter wrote:
Coscar wrote:
hank wrote:
Ah, I know I’m a fossil remembering back when they used to build these things by hand.

Ah, just noticed Berkley……….. spent a few months there in ….. probably ’68. ‘Spare changing’ on Telegraph Ave and sleeping in Peoples Park in a ’59 Pontiac someone gave me in Huntington Beach. Those were the days~~


Berkeley was interesting back then. I still remember going to classes with all the National Guard and police walking around. And being teargassed was…….interesting; especially when they used a jeep spraying teargas out of it and being stuck in traffic.

I guess “interesting” is one word for that….. ‘sucks’ seems more appropiate to me however. Wink
Very true. Back then it was awful and really was a terrible experience. But now it doesn’t seem like it was all that bad since one tend to forget how bad things were long ago.

I won’t even go to how “interesting” it was getting shot by rubber bullets or how fast one can run when being chased by people with big clubs who had legal authority to use them Tired

9mm/40cal/45cal bullets and large/small pistol primers available for sale in San Francisco Bay area

teacher
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Ouch…. “rubber bullets & big clubs” could get “interesting” real fast!! Facepalm Thumbs Up
That really would “suck”. Wink

I guess looking back…. time does put a different perspective on things.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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xevious
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teacher wrote:
xevious wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BTW, the optics and mcpcb are only effected if you try to unscrew the bezel on the head, which is not recommended. This is seperate from the head itself. You might be confusing these two things.
1. Wait… by “bezel” I understand this to be the front most piece on the light. 2. You need to remove that to get access to the optic. 3. So why would it be not recommended? 4.I’ve removed it about a dozen times thus far to experiment with different optics. 5. No problems. 6. I do not get any MCPCB rotation going on.
1. Yes, correct. 2. Yes, correct. 3. Because some people never pay attention to any detail & would screw it up. So.. it is “not recommended”. If you do it anyway: ……. a. You hopefully know how to properly do the simple procedure. ……. b. If you break something, that is on you. 4. OK… good deal. 5. Even better. 6. Great! But just because ‘you’ got no rotation of the MCPCB, Does Not mean it cannot happen. And when it does happen, and ‘you’ are not aware of it…. things can & will break.

I figured that since the front bezel FW3A is attached using external screw threads on the body, unscrewing the bezel won’t affect anything internally. The counter-clockwise rotation to remove it might cause the front glass to rotate for a small amount, but the optic definitely doesn’t move. I pop it out, then put a replacement optic into the 3 peg holes, lay over the glass, then screw down the bezel. Nothing internally rotates. But I hear you, that it may not be true for every assembly.

I will follow your advice, though. The next time I do it, I’ll take a toothpick to the MCPCB and check to see if it’s well anchored in place or loose. I definitely don’t want to end up torquing the wires and cause them to detach!

teacher
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Hey… if you have not had any problems your obviously doing it right. I wouldn’t change anything. (And I did not suggest a “toothpick” for anything either.. Wink )

All I am saying is just because you have not experienced a problem does not mean someone else will not experience it.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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I have found that a little bit of pressure on the glass lens with my thumb when removing or tightening the bezel on lights where the MCPCB can rotate is enough to prevent a problem. (after the first time I ripped the wires loose on one) Facepalm

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/\ ….. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Unloco
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teacher wrote:
:?: :?: Question “Who made” what??

Atom00
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JasonWW wrote:
Atom00 wrote:
Atom00 wrote:
Anyone play around with the Group 2 – Strobe mode.

I can only go into the strobe mode for 1 time only after i received this light. I cycle from candle > bike flasher > party strobe > tactical strobe > lightning storm > off.

Problem : after that i click, click, hold it just respond by dim flash once and turn off by itself.

reinsert the battery still the same problem. dim flash once and turn off by itself.


Help needed here. I can’t go into strobe mode now. PM Neal already, while waiting his reply maybe someone in here have the solution.

It seems like we all missed your posts for some reason. Facepalm

Make sure your not in muggle mode and then report back what it’s doing. Maybe copy and paste if it’s doing what it did before. I’m still not sure what your describing. Are you trying to change the rate of the strobe?

I have double check to make sure i’m not in muggle mode.

I’m unable to go into Group 2 now.
When i perform click, click, hold ……it just respond by one dim flash/flicker and goes off.

I’m able to go into Group 2 the first time when i received this light and i was playing with all the Group 2 mode (candle, bike flasher, party strobe, tactical strobe, lightning storm). The last Group 2 mode i used was lightning storm.

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Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Steve Glasses Cool

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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