FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

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micknatt
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When I bought the smaller battery tubes, they came with a couple of white O-rings for each.

mattlward
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I picked up an 18350 tube and it came without one. That was how I broke the first one.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

micknatt
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mattlward wrote:
I picked up an 18350 tube and it came without one. That was how I broke the first one.

I bought my from Lumintoplighting. Where did you get yours?
mattlward
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Direct from Neal.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

micknatt
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When I bought some deep carry clip from Neal, I thought it was supposed to come with some white O-rings too but it did not. Either I got lucky with Lumintoplighting or Neal just doesn’t put them in the box.

atobe
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No O-ring with deep clip from neal also. I guess it only comes with the short tubes?

ᕦ(ò_óˇ)ᕤ

JaredM
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Firelight2 wrote:
I wonder if we can get more resistance in the switch by taking off the spring-steel dome on the switch and bending the 3 wings slightly inward.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1580576#comment-1580576

Check out the discussion here if you’re interested in stiffening up the switch actuation.

trailhunter
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JaredM wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
I wonder if we can get more resistance in the switch by taking off the spring-steel dome on the switch and bending the 3 wings slightly inward.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1580576#comment-1580576

Check out the discussion here if you’re interested in stiffening up the switch actuation.

Thanks, ordered them from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMWLR8?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

hank
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What kind of color is applied to the flashlight?
I’ve noticed the gray color coating is disappearing around the edges of the tailcap and bezel

I wouldn’t mind being able to get the extra hard anodizing, even though I think it only comes in black.

trailhunter
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trailhunter wrote:
JaredM wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
I wonder if we can get more resistance in the switch by taking off the spring-steel dome on the switch and bending the 3 wings slightly inward.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1580576#comment-1580576

Check out the discussion here if you’re interested in stiffening up the switch actuation.

Thanks, ordered them from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMWLR8?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

!https://i.imgur.com/sfczJjy_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium!

Heads up, these work like a charm, gives a good tactical feel.

StormRider
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Got my FW3A yesterday from the Amazon sale. I have a few new Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top unprotected cells. After I inserted the cell from the head, the light briefly flashed to indicate contact. However, when I clicked on the e-switch, nothing happens, no light came up, holding down the e-switch doesn’t ramp up to down (no light came out at all).

I emailed Lumintop through Amazon, but haven’t heard back. In the meantime, I just remembered that I have some harvested flattop Samsung 24E unprotected from a laptop battery, so I popped one in, and the FW3A worked like a charm.

I plan to order some higher capacity flat top unprotected LG MJ1 to see if they work. So far, I think unprotected flat top is probably my best bet.

trailhunter
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StormRider wrote:
Got my FW3A yesterday from the Amazon sale. I have a few new Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top unprotected cells. After I inserted the cell from the head, the light briefly flashed to indicate contact. However, when I clicked on the e-switch, nothing happens, no light came up, holding down the e-switch doesn’t ramp up to down (no light came out at all).

I emailed Lumintop through Amazon, but haven’t heard back. In the meantime, I just remembered that I have some harvested flattop Samsung 24E unprotected from a laptop battery, so I popped one in, and the FW3A worked like a charm.

I plan to order some higher capacity flat top unprotected LG MJ1 to see if they work. So far, I think unprotected flat top is probably my best bet.

Order yourself a couple Sanyo 30Q’s

JasonWW
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StormRider wrote:
Got my FW3A yesterday from the Amazon sale. I have a few new Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top unprotected cells. After I inserted the cell from the head, the light briefly flashed to indicate contact. However, when I clicked on the e-switch, nothing happens, no light came up, holding down the e-switch doesn’t ramp up to down (no light came out at all).

I emailed Lumintop through Amazon, but haven’t heard back. In the meantime, I just remembered that I have some harvested flattop Samsung 24E unprotected from a laptop battery, so I popped one in, and the FW3A worked like a charm.

I plan to order some higher capacity flat top unprotected LG MJ1 to see if they work. So far, I think unprotected flat top is probably my best bet.


Some button top work and some don’t. The heights vary. You could remove the button top if your careful.

trailhunter wrote:

Order yourself a couple Sanyo 30Q’s

Sanyo? That would be Samsung.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

grin
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I have noticed that the driver shelf has not been cut out completely on a copper version. This puts the driver out of alignment.

JasonWW
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grin wrote:
I have noticed that the driver shelf has not been cut out completely on a copper version. This puts the driver out of alignment.


That’s normal. The notch on the driver fits there.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

grin
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JasonWW wrote:
grin wrote:
I have noticed that the driver shelf has not been cut out completely on a copper version. This puts the driver out of alignment.


That’s normal. The notch on the driver fits there.

Doh that makes sense
BOO5TED
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StormRider wrote:
Got my FW3A yesterday from the Amazon sale. I have a few new Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top unprotected cells. After I inserted the cell from the head, the light briefly flashed to indicate contact. However, when I clicked on the e-switch, nothing happens, no light came up, holding down the e-switch doesn’t ramp up to down (no light came out at all).

I emailed Lumintop through Amazon, but haven’t heard back. In the meantime, I just remembered that I have some harvested flattop Samsung 24E unprotected from a laptop battery, so I popped one in, and the FW3A worked like a charm.

I plan to order some higher capacity flat top unprotected LG MJ1 to see if they work. So far, I think unprotected flat top is probably my best bet.

That’s because the FWXX series lights are designed to work on unprotected cells.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

LedTed
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I had to buy a large tweezers and tighten all the retaining rings on my FW3X V2s.

A few days ago, the switch started acting up on my FW3A bare. Today, I took apart the switch to find pieces of what appeared to be the flat black rubber spacer; not the nub. The pieces were not from the spacer in the light. I used canned compressed air to clean the circuit board mounted switch. The switch is now back to behaving.

Wish I would have checked the switch before I originally tightened up the associated retaining ring.

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

hank
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OK, for the record I will go back and take all the troubleshooting steps recommended.

Here’s why. I’ve been using the FW3A every evening walking the dog in the dark.

Tonight was different.

As usual, started from a low setting and ramped up.
Got one blink then the light went out.

Clicked once and it started again in low, ramped up, and went out

Clicked once, started in low, ramped up, flickered several times and went out

Repeated and again got ramp to flicker to out

Clicked again, started in low, got a normal ramp up and turbo bright

Clicked off, back on low, again normal ramp up and turbo bright

Clicked off, clicked on, no ramp or response to clicks, light went out.

Clicked off, back on low, ramped up and went out

Clicked off, back on low, ramped up and got the voltage report (4 blinks then 1 blink)

I think I have an intermittent, and will go looking for anything suggested (retightening, cleaning).

G’night.

xevious
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hank wrote:
OK, for the record I will go back and take all the troubleshooting steps recommended.

Here’s why. I’ve been using the FW3A every evening walking the dog in the dark.

Tonight was different.

As usual, started from a low setting and ramped up.
Got one blink then the light went out.

Clicked once and it started again in low, ramped up, and went out

Clicked once, started in low, ramped up, flickered several times and went out

Repeated and again got ramp to flicker to out

Clicked again, started in low, got a normal ramp up and turbo bright

Clicked off, back on low, again normal ramp up and turbo bright

Clicked off, clicked on, no ramp or response to clicks, light went out.

Clicked off, back on low, ramped up and went out

Clicked off, back on low, ramped up and got the voltage report (4 blinks then 1 blink)

I think I have an intermittent, and will go looking for anything suggested (retightening, cleaning).

G’night.

The only time this has happened to me was when the tail cap was loose. I modified the switch, removing the nubbin & inserting a 5/32” o-ring, to firm up the button. It works great. But for some reason, it’s a little more prone to loosening when I partially unscrew the head for lockout. The symptom is the light going out while ramping up. Tightening the tail cap fixes it every time.
xevious
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Does anyone know if the retaining ring for the tail cap can be purchased separately and if it will work in a 1st release FW3A?

hank
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Hm, tailcap on mine did not budge noticeably when I tried clamping down on it, but the intermittent problem seems to have cleared up.

I would gladly buy the revised model tailcap with retaining ring, if they made enough of them to sell them as spares. It seems a weak spot to fix.

shirnask
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hank wrote:
Hm, tailcap on mine did not budge noticeably when I tried clamping down on it, but the intermittent problem seems to have cleared up.

I would gladly buy the revised model tailcap with retaining ring, if they made enough of them to sell them as spares. It seems a weak spot to fix.

Well not always., out of more than a dozen first and second run lights (no not all for me) I had one light that the only way I could get it to work reliably was to remove the retaining ring from the tail cap.

hank
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OK, I had crud in the threads somewhere. Screwing the head and tailcap back and forth released some grinding/sticking points, then adding a bit of Nyogel conductive lube to the threads, seems to have eliminated the intermittency problem for now.

I’d still like to get one of the new version tailcaps with retaining ring, if they come available.

hank
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Cross-reference: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70380

FW3A Turns On and Becomes Stuck When Tail and Head Tightened

And here’s another case that sounds exactly like the problem I was having:

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/e3svp6/fixed_fw3a_rebooting...

and that Reddit thread pointed to this one:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1524636#comment-1524636

Firelight2
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BOO5TED][quote=StormRider wrote:
Got my FW3A yesterday from the Amazon sale. I have a few new Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top unprotected cells. After I inserted the cell from the head, the light briefly flashed to indicate contact. However, when I clicked on the e-switch, nothing happens, no light came up, holding down the e-switch doesn’t ramp up to down (no light came out at all).

I emailed Lumintop through Amazon, but haven’t heard back. In the meantime, I just remembered that I have some harvested flattop Samsung 24E unprotected from a laptop battery, so I popped one in, and the FW3A worked like a charm.

The cell you tried is probably too long. As a result, the light is not firmly closing the circuit on both sides of the inner tube. Try Sony VTC5, VTC5A or VTC6, or Samsun 30q. All should work fine.

Rayoui
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I also had a similar issue with one of my FW3As. When I disassembled the tailcap I discovered that the “nubbin” was about 1/3 longer than my other FW3Xs. I replaced it with a shorter nubbin (I cut a piece off of a spare o-ring of the correct diameter) and the problem went away. It also made the switch feel very nice and tactile.

Fargus
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Just received my FW3a. How water proof is it says ipx8 can it be submerged a few feet?

WalkIntoTheLight
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Fargus wrote:
Just received my FW3a. How water proof is it says ipx8 can it be submerged a few feet?

Yes. IPx8 usually means submerged for 30 minutes up to 2 meters (6 feet) depth. It could be better than that, but I wouldn’t count on it.

Firelight2
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If you’re planning to submerge your light, it might not be a bad idea to disassemble it and lubricate the o-rings. It’s probably good enough as-is, but you never know.

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