FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

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peg matite
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JasonWW][quote=hank wrote:
It seems the vast majority of buyers have no issues at all. If we actually count up the ones that seem to have some actual flaw that makes them not work right we only get 20 to 30 or so? That’s not many considering that thousands have been sold.

I have a gray Nichia and Green SST-20.

Both needed fiddling with. Cleaning, adjusting, pitching spurious components, etc. Gray seems stable now. Green seems to have mind of its own at times. Won’t turn on. Stays on, etc. – even when adjusted, tested and just left to sit for a few days.

Not enough mfr tolerance design into it by engineers. They are lovable but not QC’d well enough.

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If you’re in the US I can send you O rings for $1 to cover envelope and postage. Send PM

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How do I get turbo off of the top of the ramp? I accidentaly turned that configuration on. Thanks

JasonWW
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Blackbeard wrote:
How do I get turbo off of the top of the ramp? I accidentaly turned that configuration on. Thanks

With light turned On, click 4 times fast to enter ramp config mode. At the prompts (fluttering light), respectively, click 1 time, then 21 times. If there is a 3rd prompt, click 7 times (this is seen when in stepped ramping mode).

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Blackbeard
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JasonWW wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
How do I get turbo off of the top of the ramp? I accidentaly turned that configuration on. Thanks

With light turned On, click 4 times fast to enter ramp config mode. At the prompts (fluttering light), respectively, click 1 time, then 21 times. If there is a 3rd prompt, click 7 times (this is seen when in stepped ramping mode).

I think I did it with light on, 4 clicks then maybe 1 after flutter, is that what turns turbo to ramp top? I didnt do 20ish clicks to enable it, seems odd to disenable with 21 clicks lol. Lesson is don’t play with this light while half asleep.

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Blackbeard wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
How do I get turbo off of the top of the ramp? I accidentaly turned that configuration on. Thanks

With light turned On, click 4 times fast to enter ramp config mode. At the prompts (fluttering light), respectively, click 1 time, then 21 times. If there is a 3rd prompt, click 7 times (this is seen when in stepped ramping mode).

I think I did it with light on, 4 clicks then maybe 1 after flutter, is that what turns turbo to ramp top? I didnt do 20ish clicks to enable it, seems odd to disenable with 21 clicks lol. Lesson is don’t play with this light while half asleep.


The first flutter is were you set the ramp floor. 1 click sets the lowest level.

The second flutter sets the ramp upper level. 21 clicks means 20 levels below max. Max level (Turbo) is 150. Level 130 is max regulated (stock).

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Blackbeard
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I’m still confused, I somehow added turbo to the ramp max with just one or 2 clicks after one of the flutters. I would just like to put it back to the factory default, thats what I was used to using, that is the top of the ramp was high (I think lol) and then still need double click for turbo. Thanks for help Jason, if you could confirm your previous instructions are what I need to do before I fudge it up anymore.

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Blackbeard wrote:
I’m still confused, I somehow added turbo to the ramp max with just one or 2 clicks after one of the flutters. I would just like to put it back to the factory default, thats what I was used to using, that is the top of the ramp was high (I think lol) and then still need double click for turbo. Thanks for help Jason, if you could confirm your previous instructions are what I need to do before I fudge it up anymore.

Assuming you are in smooth ramping mode, you can set the ramp floor minimum and maximum.

With light turned On, click 4 times fast. At the prompts (fluttering light) click 1 time it will respond and then then flutter a second time. This second flutter is where it sets the ramp max. Default is 21 clicks. If you click 1 time ramp max will be Turbo, so don’t do that, click 21 times. 

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
I’m still confused, I somehow added turbo to the ramp max with just one or 2 clicks after one of the flutters. I would just like to put it back to the factory default, thats what I was used to using, that is the top of the ramp was high (I think lol) and then still need double click for turbo. Thanks for help Jason, if you could confirm your previous instructions are what I need to do before I fudge it up anymore.

Assuming you are in smooth ramping mode, you can set the ramp floor minimum and maximum.

With light turned On, click 4 times fast. At the prompts (fluttering light) click 1 time it will respond and then then flutter a second time. This second flutter is where it sets the ramp max. Default is 21 clicks. If you click 1 time ramp max will be Turbo, so don’t do that, click 21 times. 

Thanks a lot Jason, that worked, appreciate the help, the manual is kinda confusing.

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Anduril is a little too easy to get into the menu settings, Imho.

You can also set the ramp min and max in stepped ramping. It has seperate settings. Same procedure except you make sure your in stepped ramping mode. It has a 3rd flutter which is the number of steps you want. Default is 7.

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Nav88
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JasonWW wrote:
You can also set the ramp min and max in stepped ramping. It has seperate settings.
This also allows for two different momentary moon modes when the light is locked out. Hold gives you the floor for the current ramp and click, hold gives you the floor for the other ramp. Pretty cool, and one of the more obscure features.
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JaredM wrote:
It surely does cause wear to any surfaces in contact. Ever notice how dirty the threads/grease gets on the side you regularly use vs one that you don’t? Aluminum over aluminum is highly abrasive due to the oxides inherent the metal. This means that every time these surfaces shear across one another, a huge amount of nano-scale particulates of Aluminum oxide are produced. This is why thread grease turns grey/black, similar to what happens while using a polishing compound on Al wheels. These Al2O3 particles can migrate to other contact surfaces in the light and accelerate abrasion and wear, in addition to causing very high contact resistance. It’s very important to keep threads clean and regreased as often as possible.

As for accidental activation, I would highly recommend trying the o-ring switch mod if you haven’t already. Really eliminates the need for any kind of lockout.

Cheers

Try soft candle wax, like from scented candles for example.
It doesn’t cause grey gunk grease and really helps smoothening the threads.

cabfrank
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One of mine no longer stops at the top of the ramp before turbo, meaning it no longer takes a double click to reach turbo. Did I accidentally re-configure it that way, or is it a quirk?

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cabfrank wrote:
One of mine no longer stops at the top of the ramp before turbo, meaning it no longer takes a double click to reach turbo. Did I accidentally re-configure it that way, or is it a quirk?

That is the default behavior. Top of the ramp is the highest brightness for LT1.

cabfrank
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This is for the FW3A. All three originally required a double click to turbo, and now one of them doesn’t. It just ramps to turbo without a double click.

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cabfrank wrote:
One of mine no longer stops at the top of the ramp before turbo, meaning it no longer takes a double click to reach turbo. Did I accidentally re-configure it that way, or is it a quirk?

You may have accidentally clicked 4 times while on and reset the ramp levels. Look a few posts above to reset it.

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cabfrank
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It worked, Jason. You are a genius! Thanks for the help.

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cabfrank wrote:
This is for the FW3A. All three originally required a double click to turbo, and now one of them doesn’t. It just ramps to turbo without a double click.

Whoops, wrong thread.

Mike89
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All of a sudden my button is starting to feel a little crunchy. I’ve never been brave enough to take the bottom cap off to check anything.

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Mike89 wrote:
All of a sudden my button is starting to feel a little crunchy. I’ve never been brave enough to take the bottom cap off to check anything.

It’s very easy. Just make sure you don’t loose the little black nub. There are videos showing how it goes together.

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cabfrank
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Yeah, just keep it facing up when you take it apart so nothing falls out. A white cloth underneath helps, and a tweezers for the nubbin.

Mike89
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I haven’t had mine very long so hopefully I got one with the retaining ring. Aren’t all models now supposed to have them?

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Mike89 wrote:
I haven’t had mine very long so hopefully I got one with the retaining ring. Aren’t all models now supposed to have them?

It is a production change, but they don’t just throw away old inventory. So there might be a chance someone gets an older version.

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So I just got an 18350 tube from Illumn for my first production run FW3A, and can’t get the light to work with the short tube, I’ve taken it completely apart and cleaned everything before reassembling to no avail.

Wondering if anyone else has seen this and maybe an easy fix like lapping the inner tube a bit shorter or adding a small spacer in the threads to fix length issues?

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cujo255 wrote:
So I just got an 18350 tube from Illumn for my first production run FW3A, and can’t get the light to work with the short tube, I’ve taken it completely apart and cleaned everything before reassembling to no avail.

Wondering if anyone else has seen this and maybe an easy fix like lapping the inner tube a bit shorter or adding a small spacer in the threads to fix length issues?


Is there a battery length issue?

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JasonWW wrote:
Is there a battery length issue?

Not that I can tell at least, I only have unprotected 18350 (the black keeppower high drain ones), the light does the ‘I’m connected’ quick flash when the head is screwed on about half way, but once tightened there is no response from the switch.

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cujo255 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Is there a battery length issue?

Not that I can tell at least, I only have unprotected 18350 (the black keeppower high drain ones), the light does the ‘I’m connected’ quick flash when the head is screwed on about half way, but once tightened there is no response from the switch.


Make sure to loosen the head, then tighten the tail firmly, then tighten the head.

If still no switch contact, the battery might be a bit too long. Does it have a button top? Does it look like the button is being smashed in?

I don’t know what battery length they recommend, but you might try measuring your cell to see if it’s too long. I’m guessing someone knows the recommended 18350 length. You might try a 16340 cell if you have one.

Maybe others have tried that cell and can comment if it works or not.

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rom
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I had the same issue with my 18650 battery. Contrary to what for most helps, I had to loosen the inner tail retaining ring (which holds down the switch) around one turn (360°). Now the light works fine and very stable.

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I was wondering if anyone knows if this is normal.
If I leave my FW3T off for a period of time (overnight) it becomes non responsive. I have to remove and replace the head and it works fine for the rest of the day.
Not a big deal but kind of weird.

Thanks.

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Whyaskus wrote:
I was wondering if anyone knows if this is normal.
If I leave my FW3T off for a period of time (overnight) it becomes non responsive. I have to remove and replace the head and it works fine for the rest of the day.
Not a big deal but kind of weird.

Thanks.


Loosen or remove?

“Loosen” might mean the contacts are a bit dirty or just barely touching. Cleaning all threads (remove lube on threads maybe?) and the ends of the inner tube might help. Tightening the head a bit more may also help.

“Remove” means the power needs to be reset.

It is not normal.

I’m not too familiar with the cause of that. Maybe a MCU issue? IDK.

This is the titanium version, right? I’m assuming titanium has good electrical conductivity and doesn’t easily oxidize. I don’t know much about that version.

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