FW3A Useful Information.....

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teacher
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@ Sudsy & Tally-ho….

Thank you both for the info, I got it posted. Thumbs Up . Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Coscar
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Good Job Teach………. Thank You!!

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience


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Bob_McBob
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The thermal config is the first thing you should do with every FW3A since they aren’t calibrated at the factory and have a very low default limit set. The two lights I’ve tested so far both throttled down to the bare minimum 1×7135 level (about 135 lumens) because they thought room temperature was too high.

TheOnlyDocc
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I already have 3 LH351D here to replace the original leds. Now i want to order a new optic.
I want thelight to be as floody as possible. Will the Carlclo 10509 also fit the LH351D?

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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
I already have 3 LH351D here to replace the original leds. Now i want to order a new optic.
I want thelight to be as floody as possible. Will the Carlclo 10509 also fit the LH351D?

Yes.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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 I put some diffuser film on The 3D FW3A Because I was curious if I could change the tint a little and clean up the beam .I used something other than film with adhesive .Cut it pretty close to perfect and slipped it between the O-ring and the bezel .Just thinking that it would be a temporary thing. Odds are I'll just leave it as is since it cleaned up the beam and knocked out some tint shifting .Without the big  machine who knows. Only problem I see is the 3D tint FW3A has low enough CRI that you can actually notice how bad it really is .For me it just feels like there's "something missing " Kind of like you're hungry and don't know what you want .The tint isn't the issue.

  I'm looking forward to the second round of FW3A's before I start tearing into them to fix cri.

Great light !

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

id30209
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Thank you for the info!

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Coscar
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Bump……… because this info needs to be upfront, at least for a while longer

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience


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teacher
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/\Thumbs Up .. Yep, if read & followed; it will sort out most of the quote “problems” with the FW3A. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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raccoon city
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My FW3A is too awesome for words.

It makes my other lights pale in comparison.

I want all of my flashlights to be great... not just my FW3A.

How do I fix this horrible problem?

SIGShooter
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raccoon city wrote:

My FW3A is too awesome for words.


It makes my other lights pale in comparison.


I want all of my flashlights to be great… not just my FW3A.


How do I fix this horrible problem?


Get rid of all your other flashlights. Then all your flashlights will be great since you will only have the FW3A Smile

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Pure logic Smile Thumbs Up

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teacher
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/\Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

jimmy yang
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I found on the Youtube -LUMINTOP FW3A / 3x CREE XP-L Hi (CW) / How to Andúril-UI Operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1PRnzNzkNI


This ultra-detailed operation description is really amazing! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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raccoon city wrote:

My FW3A is too awesome for words.
It makes my other lights pale in comparison.
I want all of my flashlights to be great… not just my FW3A.
How do I fix this horrible problem?

One thing really good about this — it has helped curtail buying more flashlights. The Anduril UI has spoiled me. Bistro looks good, as it’s also a TK creation… but I prefer the Anduril menu. Also, the FW3A form factor is really great. HDS/NovaTac were really onto something back in the early 2000’s. Wink
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Great work, thank you!

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jimmy yang wrote:
I found on the Youtube -LUMINTOP FW3A / 3x CREE XP-L Hi (CW) / How to Andúril-UI Operation.

I like how it shows what’s happening on the UI diagram. It seems like that could really help people understand better. Smile

However, it didn’t actually show how to change any settings. The light in the video had a badly calibrated temperature sensor, so it would have been a great opportunity to show how to fix that… but it didn’t. And the light won’t really work right when the sensor is so far off.

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This is just what we needed, all the intructions/info condensed into one thread not spread over multiple ones.

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BabyDoc
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Bob_McBob wrote:
The thermal config is the first thing you should do with every FW3A since they aren’t calibrated at the factory and have a very low default limit set. The two lights I’ve tested so far both throttled down to the bare minimum 1×7135 level (about 135 lumens) because they thought room temperature was too high.

Apparently, illumn.com, from whom I just purchased my FW3A, agrees with you. In fact, when I received mine, there was a slip inside the box saying illumn.com had already calibrated the sensor. In the process,I am sure they would have picked up and corrected any problems before shipping out the light. Mine was perfect.
cabfrank
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I agree too. I calibrated mine right away. They get warm, but not uncomfortably so, and they haven’t stepped down at all yet. I guess that means I am still using them very conservatively.

teacher
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cabfrank wrote:
I agree too. I calibrated mine right away. They get warm, but not uncomfortably so, and they haven’t stepped down at all yet. I guess that means I am still using them very conservatively.
Just for clarification, your not talking about using them on Turbo are you cabfrank??

On Turbo my XP-L HI starts stepping down at about 12 seconds.

It has also been calibrated.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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cabfrank
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Usually turbo for just a few seconds, probably not 12.

I just checked mine, and yeah, step down at about 12ish seconds. We’re probably calibrated similarly. I do have a LG HG2 in right now. Step down occurs later with a Samsung 35E. I like the slightly higher capacity, lower drain cells better for these lights. They do work well with both though.

teacher
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/\ OK, thanks cabfrank. I like the higher capacity cells for the FW3A too. It does sound like ours are calibrated about the same…. Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

cabfrank
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You got me thinking, and I just rechecked. Two of my lights, a XPL and a SST, do not step down that quickly. My other XPL does. I think I have to recalibrate that one, as it steps down before it seems very hot when starting from room temp. Of course when it has been on and is already warm, it gets hot on turbo quicker. I’m going to reset it tomorrow.

teacher
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Sounds like a plan.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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Hey, teach – recently received my FW3C and wanted to thank you for organizing this Useful Information into one compilation.
Well done Thumbs Up
Thank you again,
OG

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Click happy muggles! Gifted my son in law FW3A. My mistake.

Have had to reset the ramp ceiling a couple times for him and his itchy switch fingers.

He gave me the light to check and it was acting really strange in the ramp with different intensity levels.

I couldn’t get into any adjustment settings and really was thinking light had a real problem. Nope muggle had put it in muggle mode on his own.

I did not recognize muggle mode because I think he managed to change the levels in muggle also. I haven’t actually checked that yet.
After I exited muggle I did have to reset the ramp ceilings again though.

I may have to take his away. Funny my daughter never has a problem with hers. And I still love my 2.

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Seeker1 wrote:
Click happy muggles! Gifted my son in law FW3A. My mistake.

Have had to reset the ramp ceiling a couple times for him and his itchy switch fingers.

He gave me the light to check and it was acting really strange in the ramp with different intensity levels.

I couldn’t get into any adjustment settings and really was thinking light had a real problem. Nope muggle had put it in muggle mode on his own.

I did not recognize muggle mode because I think he managed to change the levels in muggle also. I haven’t actually checked that yet.
After I exited muggle I did have to reset the ramp ceilings again though.

I may have to take his away. Funny my daughter never has a problem with hers. And I still love my 2.

Yeah, it’s too easy to get into configuration modes accidentally, in Anduril. IMO, they should be tricky to get into; but once you’re in, easy to configure. Okay, we’ll never get “easy to configure” in a complex UI. But, at least, it should be difficult to accidentally configure.

IIRC, a reset feature was recently added. It was difficult to do accidentally, because I think you had to hold the button when inserting a battery. Something like that. I think all the configuration menus should only be activated that way.

wle
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yeah i have done that once or twice, reconfigured something accidentally, then have to wade through levels again (the most tedious config)

so i would sort of agree with that

also i can;t remember the muggle and lockout sequences, since i don;t do them much

wle

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Ah, for the days when such lights connected by USB would allow for programmatic access, and a backup of settings. This way if the config ever got screwed up, you reset and simply reload your backup. Thumbs Up

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