FW3A Useful Information.....

85 posts / 0 new
Last post
MonkeyLight
MonkeyLight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 07/07/2018 - 13:24
Posts: 38
Location: South Africa

Thanks Teacher and all other contributors.

Just thinking

How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?

I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?

likevvii
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 04/28/2014 - 10:12
Posts: 394
Location: USA, California

I want to purchase a few extra FW3A drivers because I mod and break things often. I have FW3A comming soon in the mail so I am unfamiliar with how it works.
I am unable to find where to purchase the drivers directly.

Also, are there other drivers that are compatible? The drivers I have are only the click ON/OFF tail switches.

I dont know what type of switch the FW3A uses. Is it always connected with momentary clicking, or direct ON/OFF, or something else entirely.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2950
Location: US

likevvii wrote:
I want to purchase a few extra FW3A drivers because I mod and break things often. I have FW3A comming soon in the mail so I am unfamiliar with how it works.
I am unable to find where to purchase the drivers directly.

Also, are there other drivers that are compatible? The drivers I have are only the click ON/OFF tail switches.

I dont know what type of switch the FW3A uses. Is it always connected with momentary clicking, or direct ON/OFF, or something else entirely.

You would have to go to Neal or Lumintop directly for this. The driver is eswitch (“direct on/off” = mechanical switch) and an unusual size and placement of the eswitch area since it is not connected via a wire like most eswitch drivers.

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 6 hours ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 7699
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

xevious wrote:
Ah, for the days when such lights connected by USB would allow for programmatic access, and a backup of settings. This way if the config ever got screwed up, you reset and simply reload your backup. Thumbs Up

Wait, doesn’t FW3A Andúril already have a ‘factory reset’ option? I know a lot of Narsil lights have that. I don’t own a FW3A, so I can’t test.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

WalkIntoTheLight
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 12/05/2015 - 10:26
Posts: 2153
Location: Canada
DavidEF wrote:
xevious wrote:
Ah, for the days when such lights connected by USB would allow for programmatic access, and a backup of settings. This way if the config ever got screwed up, you reset and simply reload your backup. Thumbs Up
Wait, doesn’t FW3A Andúril already have a ‘factory reset’ option? I know a lot of Narsil lights have that. I don’t own a FW3A, so I can’t test.

I believe it does now, but the original FW3A’s don’t have it. I’m not sure if the ones shipping now have the updated firmware with the reset function. Probably, but get confirmation before ordering if it’s important to you.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10292
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
BabyDoc wrote:
when I received mine, there was a slip inside the box saying illumn.com had already calibrated the sensor. In the process,I am sure they would have picked up and corrected any problems before shipping out the light. Mine was perfect.

Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do, but it’d be really nice if the factory would do it instead.

In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.

goshdogit
goshdogit's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 21:28
Posts: 1099

MonkeyLight wrote:
How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?

I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?

Not that simple. Smile

There is a ‘shelf’ between the driver and LED MCPCB. This light is not a ‘pill’ design.

Remove bezel, lens, and optic from head.

Unsolder red and black wires from LED MCPCB.

Remove LED MCPCB.

If you are swapping just the LEDs, you can leave the driver in place. Otherwise, remove driver ring and remove driver.

Clean the old thermal compound from the shelf and the MCPCB. Use a small amount of new thermal compound.

Be careful not to twist the red and black wires when reinstalling the optic/lens/bezel.

Here is a photo from CRX’s FW3A Mods & Teardown thread:

freq
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 5 days ago
Joined: 07/05/2019 - 10:05
Posts: 34
Location: Pacific NW
ToyKeeper wrote:
… Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do… In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.

and thank you for that heads up… most helpful regarding this noob’s purchasing decision…

Paladin007
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/21/2019 - 19:13
Posts: 6
Location: Australia

Thank you for great info. Is anyone able to help which emitters should I pick. What are the pro and cons between XP-L HI 3D , SST 20, Nichia 219c for this beast?

Would like to have high lumen, high cri (will this matter?), good flood with enough throw, and keep it low temperature. But I know I cannot have it all.
I don’t have any experience other than XP-G2 S3 with my Mecarmy SGN5.

What is the good balance for overall EDC around the house and night street walk?

Man Without Shadow
Man Without Shadow's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 02/20/2017 - 18:17
Posts: 455
Location: Wisconsin

I sure do like the xp-l HI 3d’s…brightest of the bunch, “least” heat…

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

cabfrank
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 59 min ago
Joined: 11/19/2010 - 17:25
Posts: 3042
Location: healdsburg, california usa earth

The XPL 3D is not high CRI, but to me, it is the best emitter for this light.

xevious
xevious's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 02/27/2013 - 21:55
Posts: 1458
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA

cabfrank wrote:
The XPL 3D is not high CRI, but to me, it is the best emitter for this light.
Yes, it’s more neutral white, but a very “clean” tint without being clinical. I find it very powerful and considering the turbo output plus form factor, it performs very well.
BabyDoc
BabyDoc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 9 hours ago
Joined: 05/29/2019 - 09:37
Posts: 141
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
freq wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
… Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do… In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.

and thank you for that heads up… most helpful regarding this noob’s purchasing decision…


I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.
freq
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 5 days ago
Joined: 07/05/2019 - 10:05
Posts: 34
Location: Pacific NW

ok… thank you for that referral as well, BabyDoc…

scosgt
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 5 hours ago
Joined: 07/03/2019 - 22:32
Posts: 544
Location: New York
BabyDoc wrote:
freq wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
… Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do… In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.

and thank you for that heads up… most helpful regarding this noob’s purchasing decision…


I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.

I agree . I was the one with the problem, and it got resolved in a couple of hours.
They are in the USA and ship quickly.
I am certain the copper is not calibrated by them because it is indeed vacuum sealed.
In fact, the clip corroded the copper a bit on the tube. I cleaned it up with a salt/vinegar combo, and a little toothpaste!
I have not calibrated the heat, but it gets so hot so fast you can not keep it above 800 lumens for more than a few seconds.

MonkeyLight
MonkeyLight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 07/07/2018 - 13:24
Posts: 38
Location: South Africa

goshdogit wrote:
MonkeyLight wrote:
How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?

I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?

Not that simple. Smile

There is a ‘shelf’ between the driver and LED MCPCB. This light is not a ‘pill’ design.

Remove bezel, lens, and optic from head.

Unsolder red and black wires from LED MCPCB.

Remove LED MCPCB.

If you are swapping just the LEDs, you can leave the driver in place. Otherwise, remove driver ring and remove driver.

Clean the old thermal compound from the shelf and the MCPCB. Use a small amount of new thermal compound.

Be careful not to twist the red and black wires when reinstalling the optic/lens/bezel.

Here is a photo from CRX’s FW3A Mods & Teardown thread:


.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

Thank you very much for the helpfull info and instructions.

Exactly the advice I was looking for without trying pushing it first and damage the LED MCPCB and the driver in the process.

Much appreciated :-)MonkeyLight

CalvinIS
CalvinIS's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 11/29/2012 - 03:29
Posts: 987
Location: San Jose, CA

BabyDoc wrote:
I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.

scosgt wrote:
I agree . I was the one with the problem, and it got resolved in a couple of hours. They are in the USA and ship quickly. I am certain the copper is not calibrated by them because it is indeed vacuum sealed. In fact, the clip corroded the copper a bit on the tube. I cleaned it up with a salt/vinegar combo, and a little toothpaste! I have not calibrated the heat, but it gets so hot so fast you can not keep it above 800 lumens for more than a few seconds.

That's correct, we are NOT calibrating copper models to preserve the seal on the light. There should have been a note in each box saying so.

USA based seller of flashlights, batteries, and chargers.
Illumn Webstore
 /// Instagram /// BLF DEAL THREAD

Chinaheart
Chinaheart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 20 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 07/19/2019 - 22:56
Posts: 206
Location: Philippines

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 9002
Location: Berkeley, California

Calvin, can we tell by our order date/order number which version of Anduil is installed on a flashligh?

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 9002
Location: Berkeley, California

No answer to that question. Oh well.

Here’s a lanyard ring:
https://jc-customflashlights.com/collections/accessories/products/fw3a-f...

wle
wle's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 01/07/2015 - 13:49
Posts: 1768
Location: atlanta ga

you can do that with rope

google ‘constrictor knot’

wle

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
    Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster.   
-Greg Lemond.
       ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸

xevious
xevious's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 02/27/2013 - 21:55
Posts: 1458
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA

wle wrote:
you can do that with rope

google ‘constrictor knot’

Do you know of any good sites or videos for showing some excellent lanyard making?
Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 51 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 970
Location: Germany - TLF

hank wrote:
Calvin, can we tell by our order date/order number which version of Anduil is installed on a flashligh?

You can look at toykeepers changelog and test what added feature is in your light.
ahirshy
Online
Last seen: 9 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 17:07
Posts: 305
Location: London
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
hank wrote:
Calvin, can we tell by our order date/order number which version of Anduil is installed on a flashligh?
You can look at toykeepers changelog and test what added feature is in your light.

hank wrote:
No answer to that question.  Oh well.
 
Hank - USLight coincidentally started a thread asking the exact same question on the same day you did.
 
Assume you came across this already by now, but just in case you didn't here is a link for completeness in this Useful Information.
 
 
Summary:

anonymous_user wrote:
If your Andruil is new enough to have the version check, then you can access it by doing 15 clicks from off. It will blink the version number in the format YYYY MM DD.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrAM7HylEA8 


Noir wrote:
For older Andúril versions that don't have the version check function yet, it's possible to determine the version with the help of the features it has.
Here is a very helpful post made by d_t_a which lists features and the firmware dates when they were introduced
Lumintop currently seems to be shipping lights with 2019-06-27 firmware, the FWxx lights that I bought in the last three months all came with that version (i.e. with reset function, but without version check function). I have had older lights, like my FW3C, that came with 2019-05-22 firmware, and of course the very first FW3A lights came with an even older firmware (without 2-level lockout).

d_t_a wrote:
atobe wrote:
It was added to Anduril after (Oct, 2019), FW3A was released in summer 2019 time frame I think. I don't think lumintop is doing new firmware on current productions either. So they should all have the same firmware.

I've tested FW3A with different Anduril versions -- I can't be too sure which exact Anduril firmware, but they are by trying out Anduril functions that were added.
Eg. my first FW3A doesn't have the manual/automatic memory toggle (I believe this is the 2019-05-22 firmware).
Next FW3A has manual/automatic memory toggle (so it's newer), but doesn't have the "factory reset" function.
The latest FW3A I ordered now has the "factory reset" function (via 13 clicks-hold), but doesn't have "firmware version check" function).
So it looks like Lumintop does install new firmware when it's available (as Toykeeper mentioned when I asked her). (Installed Anduril version may not always be the very very latest available firmware, but at least they do update it regularly)...

Pages