Kpfeifle wrote:

teacher wrote:

If you want a great diffuser that is snug fitting & will stay on get THESE , they are great!! They fit perfectly, stay on, and diffuse great.

They fit as they come… no adjustment or tape needs to be used. They fit perfectly.

KB posted about them… I have quoted it below. I have the same colors as in the picture. I love em’…..

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1503418#comment-1503418

Thanks teacher, I sent him a PM.

Your welcome!!

teacher wrote:

Kpfeifle wrote:

teacher wrote:

If you want a great diffuser that is snug fitting & will stay on get THESE , they are great!! They fit perfectly, stay on, and diffuse great.

They fit as they come… no adjustment or tape needs to be used. They fit perfectly.

KB posted about them… I have quoted it below. I have the same colors as in the picture. I love em’…..

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1503418#comment-1503418

Thanks teacher, I sent him a PM.

Your welcome!!

I was wondering where the sudden bump in interest came from…

I have 3d printed diffusers available, in these colors:

Everything in the top row, and the last one on the bottom, are the colors I’ve printed a lot of diffusers with.
The first one on the bottom row is a clearer, darker green. It is an old spool, haven’t done anything with it for a few years, I’m going to try printing a diffuser with it tomorrow.
Second one is glow in the dark, doesn’t last that long, but it is neat when using lightning mode.
Third is opaque yellow, which works really well.

I’ve also printed the orange one thicker, that turned out well.

I think it would work well for any of the translucents.
I test fit every one on my FW3A before they get boxed up.
I have a spool of an interesting red ordered, should be arriving any time now.

Long post, I know, but it’s almost over.

If you want any diffusers, regular ones are $1.50, thicker ones are $1.75, shipping is $4 within the US.

If you have access to a 3d printer, the stl file is available here.

Top picture, top row, second from left…. what color is that??

I see some new colors have been added… along with a double thick Orange.

Time to order some more soon!!

Thanks for the update Minocc!!

teacher wrote:

Top picture, top row, second from left…. what color is that??

I see some new colors have been added… along with a double thick Orange.

Time to order some more soon!!

Thanks for the update Minocc!!

That would be the red-ish one.

I should be getting a spool of this soon.

Also, if anyone wants other colors, this is the company I usually buy filament from, so if you see something there that you like, I’m sure we could work something out.

Minocc wrote:

teacher wrote:

Top picture, top row, second from left…. what color is that??

I see some new colors have been added… along with a double thick Orange.

Time to order some more soon!!

Thanks for the update Minocc!!

That would be the red-ish one.

I should be getting a spool of this soon.

Also, if anyone wants other colors, this is the company I usually buy filament from, so if you see something there that you like, I’m sure we could work something out.

The one below you are getting soon looks interesting…. I’ll be getting one of those for sure.

Garrett’s Chaos Red

.

These look pretty good too.

Sean’s Cotton Candy State Faire

.
Chelsey’s Powder Puff Unicorn

Okay, I ended up printing with the “Christmas tree” green, and it looks nice.
The filament needs drying, as it has absorbed moisture over the years, so that is why it has that surface finish.

I’ll start the drying process tomorrow.

That “Christmas Tree Green” looks nice.

I like how you do the ‘example pictures’ in the same room each time. That eliminates many variables.

A member had a problem, his light was turning on and doing funky things when he screwed the head on?

It happened 2-3 times with the XP-L HI I have and I traced it back to the nubin….well actually the rubber boot and nubin..

. Then I took one of the Nichia’s apart…..and found I could re-create the problem of the light turning ON simply by screwing the head back on due to the amount of slop in the driver pocket to driver board…

That driver looks off centered. When mine was off centered like that , I had weird issues.

That’s why he champhered the retaining ring, if I read correctly…. to eliminate those weird issues.

teacher wrote:

That’s why he champhered the retaining ring, if I read correctly…. to eliminate those weird issues.

Oh I see, makes sense. One final photo of the centering would have been good to see. I like the chamfering idea.

I dried the green, much better results.

Had to swing by the filament supplier for work, ended up getting three new colors.

Red, Aqua, and Plum Purple.

The red is not the Chaos Red that I’m still waiting on.

More pics!

The Aqua looks blue-er that this pic shows

And the Plum is quite opaque.

Experimentation is fun!

@ Minocc… Nice colors.

Which one is this?? Is it a new one?

Yeah, that is the plum purple. It looks almost UV-like, but doesn’t charge glow-in-the-dark stuff. Not that effective, but it looks cool.

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Then I took one of the Nichia’s apart…..and found I could re-create the problem of the light turning ON simply by screwing the head back on due to the amount of slop in the driver pocket to driver board…

That looks like the driver is probably not rotated correctly, which throws off the centering. It may have just needed to be rotated to align the flat edge.

Minocc wrote:

Yeah, that is the plum purple. It looks almost UV-like, but doesn’t charge glow-in-the-dark stuff. Not that effective, but it looks cool.

ToyKeeper wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Then I took one of the Nichia’s apart…..and found I could re-create the problem of the light turning ON simply by screwing the head back on due to the amount of slop in the driver pocket to driver board…

That looks like the driver is probably not rotated correctly, which throws off the centering. It may have just needed to be rotated to align the flat edge.

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

the driver is too small for the pocket. This shows how much I can rotate the driver in the pocket.

I don’t suppose you can hold the driver in a centered position while tightening the retaining ring? I’ve had to do that sometimes, especially on the tail PCB. Once it’s tightened in position though, it should stay pretty well.

These mods are unbelievable. really creative and crafty.

ToyKeeper wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

the driver is too small for the pocket. This shows how much I can rotate the driver in the pocket.

I don’t suppose you can hold the driver in a centered position while tightening the retaining ring? I’ve had to do that sometimes, especially on the tail PCB. Once it’s tightened in position though, it should stay pretty well.

I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking.
It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.

that almost needs a picture, did you flip the siliconcap+nubbin?, with the nubbin now touching the metal cap?

djozz wrote:

that almost needs a picture, did you flip the siliconcap+nubbin?, with the nubbin now touching the metal cap?

If so, yes, that is what I did
I flipped the silicon cap and the nubbin is now touching the metal cap.
I found out that, at least on mine, the curve (dome) on the silicon cap needed to be pushed down to make pressure more evenly to avoid noise due to a single pressure point.
After trying several “normal” silicon buttons, with and without the original below them, it was that solution what helped.

Later I may try to take a photo if needed, as I don’t have the FW3A with me atm!

got it, no pic needed

djozz wrote:

got it, no pic needed

Nice
Later I will try to capture de sound differences in video, just in case it helps anyone

BlueSwordM wrote:

Still waiting on mine, hopefully get the tracking soon.

MascaratumB wrote:

I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking.
It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.

pennzy wrote:

MascaratumB wrote:

I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking. It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.

Delayed off is normal.

Hum, I guess I didn’t noticed it much before, then!
I started messing up with the switch/caps, and thought it was because of that (and I guess it happened for a while, as the metal “activator” on the switch seemed to recover slowlyer), but it is a “feature”, not an error of my light!
Thanks for clarifying!

You are welcome. TK has shortened the delay in newer versions.