FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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contactcr
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Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.

Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)

Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv -0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)

Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv -0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6

UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6

MascaratumB
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djozz wrote:
got it, no pic needed Thumbs Up

So, I arrived home and made some experiences.
Here’s the first video with the normal configuration of the FW3A in the tailcap:

Here’s the video with the inverted silicone cap, and nubbin towards the metal cap, as mentioned above.

And this was the last thing i’ve done to make it a “silent-stealth-tactical-decent” switch Big Smile

with the help of these Big Smile

I applied some white Scotch tape (adhesive) in the edges of the metal cap to avoid the metal “scratch” after clicking or pressing&hold. And inverted/flipped the silicon cap + nubbin Wink
It is silent now! Innocent

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

KawiBoy1428
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FW3A Tritanium switch button…. Wink

A WIP…..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

trakcon
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
FW3A Tritanium switch button…. Wink

A WIP…..

Nice.

JaredM
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The bezel was made to ideally accept a Convoy S21a reflector. Currently I’m using the same S2+ SMO, which is too small and looks silly. Also, I ran out of time machining the part and didn’t get a chamfer on the outer edge. I made this of 7075 in hopes that it’ll stand up to drops better than 6061. Lastly, I’m going to dip the new part in an NaOH bath to try and match the surface finish of the rest of the light that was stripped.

If anyone has any suggestions to reflectors or single optics in the 22-23mm range and very shallow (10-12mm) let me know please. I’m hoping Simon makes available the S21a reflectors like he does with most models but as of yet haven’t heard back

cayman
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The FW1A is for real?

edit: just read your text. what a wonderful creation.

JaredM
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cayman wrote:
The FW1A is for real?

It should be. But I had to make my own. Requires only a new bezel, two off-center holes on the emitter shelf, and a suitable reflector.

cayman
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I hope that someone will create and sell this bezel. The other parts should be easy to get.

cabfrank
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It’s great, we need one. A single TIR optic would be fine too, and there wouldn’t be more length.

teacher
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Nice job, I like that. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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dragunbayne
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contactcr wrote:
Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.

Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)

Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv -0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)

Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv -0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6

UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6

Which size UCL lens? 22.6 × 1.9? Sounds like a good fit with the SST20.

JaredM
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cabfrank wrote:
It’s great, we need one. A single TIR optic would be fine too, and there wouldn’t be more length.

Call me crazy but I actually like it a bit longer. Maybe it’s just because I have larger hands, but it feels a lot better now and that 5-6mm extra is unnoticeable in my pocket.

Diameter however is another story. You notice every millimeter there. I like the girth of the FW3A in hand (seems just right), but in the pocket it could stand to loose a mm or two.

Firelight2
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cabfrank wrote:
It’s great, we need one. A single TIR optic would be fine too, and there wouldn’t be more length.

Single TIR optic is still going to be longer than the stock triple TIR. Unless you use a very tiny single-TIR optic that only uses a fraction of the width of the light.

One advantage of the Carclo triple TIR is that it’s really shallow. Just 7mm. You’re not going to find any single-TIR optics that are 20mm wide and only 7mm deep.

cabfrank
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Maybe a little longer, but probably still shorter than a reflector? Either or both would still be small and great.

KawiBoy1428
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cabfrank wrote:
Maybe a little longer, but probably still shorter than a reflector? Either or both would still be small and great.

Lumintop can have anything made….. Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Minocc
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I got the spool of Chaos Red that I’ve been waiting for, and it looks nice, but is not as translucent as I’d hoped.


Prints up nice, has a slightly rough finish.

Like the Plum Purple, I don’t think it is the best for diffusers, but it’ll be used for other things.

teacher
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/\ … I kinda like it. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Tldd
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MascaratumB wrote:
I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking.
It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.

Delayed off is a feature of ToyKeeper’s Anduríl firmware. You can see her rationale for it here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/flashlight-firmware/+bug/1803001

There’s also a repo branch there for instant off as a compile time option, but I found that it breaks some ramping features. If you want I can post my changes to the code to make it work better.

Of course, you’d also need a USBasp, SOIC clip, and soldering iron to flash your driver.

pennzy
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I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ789W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

Coscar
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teacher wrote:
@ Tom E

Neal lists a “Sky Blue” and an “Aqua”…. (no Icy Blue).

Which is yours?

It looks great!! Beer
___________

Neal wrote:

these what I have found, turbo glow gasket

Link: https://www.nealsgadgets.com/products/htp-works-turbo-glow-gasket-for-fw3a

Coupon:HTPGLOW
20% OFF

Tom E wrote:

The ice blue/aqua definitely is brighter and lasts longer than orange:



ice blue trits in there as well smile

Tom E wrote:

cabfrank wrote:
Tom, about how long does it last?

Oh boy, the ice blue for hours, but no, don’t have a definite time. I’m thinking though it was still glowing at 5-6 hours, but not certain.


It’s a huge difference – sorry I spent that kind of money on orange – not worth anything to me, actually. We, or I, should tell Neal.

Glow Gaskets @ Neals Gadgets


.

Brand: HTP WORKS
Material: TurboGlow (Best now)
Color:
Sky Blue
— Green
Aqua
— Orange
— Yellow
— Lava
— Pink
___________
_______
_______
___________
.
GITD Brightness Chart

!{width:40%}https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/n-d57o0b/yrlwgha/product_images/uploaded_im...?!

Has anyone tried the Green. Does it last longer/brighter than the Aqua?

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

MikeMacD
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I’m looking to add some Aux Lights to my FW3A. I know I’ll need to flash Andruil with them turned on (which I’m in the process of learning). Would it be possible to use this and add some 0805 leds along with the appropriate resistor to control their output?

dragunbayne
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I have ordered mine with green. I will give feedback when I get it if no one else has.

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I have 351D 4000k 90CRI and copper noctigon in the drawer.
Is it worth swapping if I have hi 7a currently and not happy about colour rendering.
What do you think? Maybe you could suggest other high cri led’s to put in?
Mike

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shirnask
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I swapped out the 7A’s for 351D’s (4000k) in my wife’s FW3A and she is much happier with the result. It’s very floody but she likes that.

sp5it
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Floody is what I need too. Too many tight hotspot lights.
Thanks, Mike

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trakcon
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Has anyone tried the glow button caps listed at Neal’s?
Glow Button Cap for FW3A

I know it would mean removing the pretty metal button, but I was thinking they may be useful to tell multiple FW3A’s apart, and also may quiet down the switch a bit.

Firelight2
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Wow that’s pretty neat.

Every time we turn around more accessories are available to customize the FW3A!!! Love Love Love

Being plastic, these new glow button caps are probably a lot easier to modify to allow a trit. You can probably carve a slot in them with an exacto knife…. much easier than the metal button.

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When it is cold outside it is easy: there is always a light in my coat. And it stays there.
Now it is summer, and the light goes from shirt to pants to coat. Never one night the same.
To protect it from too much wear, I looked in my box of spare parts for a holster.
And I found a suitable one, that belonged to the very-low-budget Utorch SF-01. But never used as such.

But it had a flaw. The flexible part that goes over the button does not prevent unwanted activation of the light.
Amazing switch, but hair trigger. So I went looking for something that would prevent that from happening.
Then I came across the dog-tag of my beloved dog that I miss dearly, even after almost 10 years. I unpicked the seam of the flap and put the tag there. Giving it a bit of room to wiggle it in the right spot.
And stitched it up again. No more unwanted activation of the light. Now I can leave it “on” all of the time.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

teacher
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/\ . Great solution! Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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KevinZA1988
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Does anyone have knowledge or experience with the 3000K 90CRI XP-L HI’s that Kaidomain sells? My 3000K 95CRI SST-20’s will be moving to my FW3C, so I thought about getting the same original floody beam but with warm high CRI emitters and stock Carclo 10511 for my FW3A, which is used around the house a lot. (The FW3C with the throwy beam of the SST-20’s and Carclo 10507 will be used when I go out):

http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/CREE-XP-L-Series-LEDs/Cree-XP-L-HI-T5-7C1-Warm-White-3000K-CRI90-LED-Emitter

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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