FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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djozz
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I must have posted it somewhere a few months ago, what I recall the tint is not nice, yellow and I measured it well above the BBL.

KevinZA1988
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Thanks djozz

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

SKV89
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Great test! Thanks! Which size did you order for the FW3A?

contactcr wrote:
Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.

Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)

Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv -0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)

Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv -0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6

UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6

contactcr
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UCL Size: 22.61mm x 1.90mm

I also have a similar one coming from Kaidomain which should be here soon. It’s 22.7×2mm I think

dragunbayne
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Thanks for the size. I just ordered one. I can’t wait for my light!

SKV89
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contactcr wrote:
UCL Size: 22.61mm x 1.90mm

I also have a similar one coming from Kaidomain which should be here soon. It’s 22.7×2mm I think

Thanks for the size and test results. I just ordered some! Smile

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My second, fully buffed/polished FW3A but with Spiral Tritanium Tailcap button and 8 trits

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Bravo Kawi!
That 3rd pic looks awesome.

djozz
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The button looks nice!

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That looks awesome!

teacher
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
My second, fully buffed/polished FW3A but with Spiral Tritanium Tailcap button and 8 trits


“Tritanium”…. I love it!! . Beer

That light looks amazing KB….. Thumbs Up

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Hobo
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Modded my FW3A with GITD gasket and carclo 10507 with trit holes from azhu. Turned out pretty good!


8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

teacher
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@ Hobo…. That looks good. Is the ‘Glow Gasket’ the AQUA one??

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Hobo
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teacher wrote:
@ Hobo…. That looks good. Is the ‘Glow Gasket’ the AQUA one??

Thanks! Yeah it’s aqua. I like how it just looks white in daylight, one has to look closely to notice it at all.
I also have a lava one in my SST-20 FW3A. Looks good too, but doesn’t glow as long. Also the whole optic looks very pink in daylight with it in place.
IMHO aqua is the color of choice.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

teacher
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Hobo wrote:
teacher wrote:
@ Hobo…. That looks good. Is the ‘Glow Gasket’ the AQUA one??
Thanks! Yeah it’s aqua. I like how it just looks white in daylight, one has to look closely to notice it at all.
I also have a lava one in my SST-20 FW3A. Looks good too, but doesn’t glow as long. Also the whole optic looks very pink in daylight with it in place.
IMHO aqua is the color of choice.
Your welcome, thanks for the info. Beer
I have an AQUA & was thinking yours was too. I really like the green Trits with it!! I am gonna copy you on that. Big Smile

I agree with what you said about the AQUA too… it is all but invisible when not charged up.

I almost got a LAVA… but got a SKY BLUE instead. It does not glow very long either. It also looks good when it’s glowing but not a long glow time. And shows Blue in daylight when not activated.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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fluke
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pennzy wrote:
I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ789W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

How did you attach them,its a great idea.

pennzy
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fluke wrote:

pennzy wrote:
I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ789W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

How did you attach them,its a great idea.


I use E6800 . In the D4V2 thread there is a picture
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1523998#comment-1523998
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Does anyone have knowledge or experience with the 3000K 90CRI XP-L HI’s that Kaidomain sells? My 3000K 95CRI SST-20’s will be moving to my FW3C, so I thought about getting the same original floody beam but with warm high CRI emitters and stock Carclo 10511 for my FW3A, which is used around the house a lot. (The FW3C with the throwy beam of the SST-20’s and Carclo 10507 will be used when I go out):

http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/CREE-XP-L-Series-LEDs/Cree-XP-L-HI-T5-7C1-Warm-White-3000K-CRI90-LED-Emitter

I have one and it’s too yellow. I have a roll of 219b sw30 that I’m going to use to replace for a more beautiful warm tint.
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UV Band Pass film…. 1 tiny little 0603 UV emitter/resistor and 3 trits… cleaned it up some….

Going to try and reduce the size or fit the glass BP lens to the triple optic… Cool

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

teacher
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pennzy wrote:
fluke wrote:

pennzy wrote:
I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ789W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

How did you attach them,its a great idea.

I use E6800 . In the D4V2 thread there is a picture
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1523998#comment-1523998
Since it seems pennzy does not do pictures… let’s see if we can’t decipher & actually see what he did with these three pictures….. All lined up in a row in one easy to locate place… Right Here in THIS Post…..Big Smile
.
SS Flat Washers from Amazon


.

E6800 Industrial Adhesive

.
FW3A with SS Washer attached with E6800

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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fluke
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Thank you.

Seems adhesive not available in UK, would expoxy resin or UV cure glue be OK? 

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fluke wrote:

Thank you.


Seems adhesive not available in UK, would expoxy resin or UV cure glue be OK? 

I think anything would work that would stick Stainless Steel to Aluminum.
  • 3M 5200
  • JB Weld
  • Epoxy might work long term… might not??
  • UV Cure maybe??… I don’t know for sure.
  • ?
  • ??
  • ???

The stuff he used (E6800) appears to be ‘clear’, so you ‘might not’ have to be as particular with exact application so as not to create aj eyesore. Big Smile

Experiment with what you think might work. Worse that can happen is it comes off & you have to try again with something else. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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SKV89
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trailhunter wrote:
I have one and it’s too yellow. I have a roll of 219b sw30 that I’m going to use to replace for a more beautiful warm tint.

Where did you get the sw30 219B? I bought some 219B 3000K 9080 from LEDRISE.EU and to my surprise they are very positive DUV instead of negative like how we know them. Even the 219B 3000K 9050 version is less green yellow than the 9080 I got.
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Somewhere in China:

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AMAZING!!

How are the images etched into the body and the lens ring?

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Thanks Teacher . I’m working on pictures. Big Smile The E6800 is very strong yet the washer can be removed without any damage to the finish if the switch needs to be removed or you want to try something different. Trick is to apply very small amount with a toothpick then stick the washer down and let it sit overnight. I use this glue for many different tasks. Makes great strain relief for wires or power tool cords. Epoxy dries hard and strong and has it’s uses too but E6800 can be molded into flexible, vibration resistant , waterproof apps.
All the Goop Glues are basically the same product.

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pennzy wrote:
Thanks Teacher . I’m working on pictures. Big Smile The E6800 is very strong yet the washer can be removed without any damage to the finish if the switch needs to be removed or you want to try something different. Trick is to apply very small amount with a toothpick then stick the washer down and let it sit overnight. I use this glue for many different tasks. Makes great strain relief for wires or power tool cords. Epoxy dries hard and strong and has it’s uses too but E6800 can be molded into flexible, vibration resistant , waterproof apps.
My pleasure pennzy, glad to do it. It took me a while to get the hang of pictures too. Facepalm . Big Smile
Once you get the basics though it is pretty easy.

Thanks for the additional info on the E6800 also, it sounds like some handy stuff in/for many different applications. I gotta get some & try it out. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?

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Nite Shadow wrote:
Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?

I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.

Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (。◕‿◕。)

“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5

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Does a red noctigon mcpcb make lights rosy? I wish it did so people would stop complaining about green Smile

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