FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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djozz
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TK wrote:
Anyway, for the time being, I basically optimized my EDC light to taste as much as possible. Time to go work on something else, I guess.

I was at that point 6 years ago Facepalm
JaredM
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teacher wrote:
JaredM wrote:
Updated the first post with pics of the latest work and beamshots.. hope ya’ll enjoy!
Thanks for the update, looking good too. Thumbs Up

Got a question: It that a fly tying vice holding the driver in this picture??

!{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/44mMW5Q.jpg!

Yes it is! I’ve been using it for years for reflows, dedoming, etc. When I was a young teenager I would use it to tie fly hooks but haven’t for many years.

cabfrank
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Man, I could use a weekend of fly tying, or something.

CRX
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Tally-ho wrote:
CRX wrote:

Still no light yet but I made these.

I had a little go at making some rigid glow gaskets using magnets Wink

LIT glow powder mixed with UV glue.

Good work ! "I knew": you would make something like this. :D

True. Here's how if anyone's interested Wink

First I made a template from an old 20mm triple MCPCB to match up with a Carclo 105xx optic. 65mm steel box lid.
This is the most difficult & time consuming part but only needs done once.

A piece of sticky tape placed on the steel surface sticky side up.
6mm x 2mm and 3mm x 2mm magnets, three of each for the optic & leg holes.

Place the 6mm magnets onto the sticky tape using the template.

Then add the 3mm magnets and remove the template, apply non stick grease carefully around the magnets & tape.

Template back in place and thin 20mm ID x 2mm outer ring fitted around the template with four large magnets to keep it from movement.

Carefully remove the template again and now we have a mould.
Mix up some GITD powder and UV setting glue.

Apply the mixture to the centre of the mould and allow it to slowly bleed out to the extremities on a flat surface until even.

Next is setting the glue mixture using a UV light source and then slide the tape and moud from the steel.

Carefully peel the tape from the back of the mould and press out the magnets with something like a thin screwdriver.

Remove the outer ring and sand down the surfaces of the gasket.

A little tidying up the well holes with a scalpel blade and it is just about done.CRX glow gaskets

I've found these to be superior to the tape method, although initially more effort.CRX glow gaskets

CRX glow gaskets

teacher
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Very impressive CRX… Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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CRX
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G0OSE
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^ Patience of a saint. Crown

CRX
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Most of the time Innocent

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I got impatient, so I modded a FW3A XP-L HI to use 219B instead. It’s a sw45k triple now, and it’ll probably be my daily carry light for a long time…
Awesome!

I’m waiting for the $30 model because I’ll be immediately swapping to rosy Nichia emitters too. Smile

Umpi2000
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Lexel wrote:

anything I missed?

should fit, I am not super confident the MCPCB solder points fit excactly as I can only guess from pictures, while I have the measurtements from the optic

Will you be offering these for sure Lexel?

Tally-ho
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ToyKeeper wrote:
it’s awfully hard to beat 219B for tint and general beam quality.

How about colors rendition ?
Don’t you see a huge difference between a CRI70 XP-L HI and a 219B ? I’m a little worried for your retinas. Silly

CRX wrote:

True. Here’s how if anyone’s interested Wink


I was planning to make a mold with an external ring and fill it with epoxy charged with glow powder and then use a guide (from carclo datasheet) printed on paper to drill holes.
The mold with magnets for making several is clever, this is the true CRX’s touch.
Firelight2
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Where is the best place to get 90+ CRI 219B?

id30209
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Firelight2 wrote:
Where is the best place to get 90+ CRI 219B?

Guy called azhu (BLF name) or Andy Zhu on Facebook has it. But they are going fast and no resupply planed…:/

Tally-ho
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Firelight2 wrote:
Where is the best place to get 90+ CRI 219B?

The Nichia 219B SW45K D220 (link to AnhTran’s sell thread) has a destinctive rosy tint that you may like or dislike but is something that every flashaholics into high CRI neutral white LED should try to have a reference point.
You could also wait for Clemence’s triple for Nichia E21A LED that will show up in his store one day.
Both will need an FW3A firmware modification to not burn LEDs.

You could also wait for the FW3A SST-20 4000°K that will have a different tint and colors rendition but with comparable high level of colors rendition than the 219B, if not slightly better but above and on BBL.

djozz
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Swapped the leds of my FW3A to FA3 bin SST-20 leds that I got a few from to test from Texas_Ace. Really nice tint and 1550 lumen just before stepdown (10 or so seconds). (tint evaluation here)

It is a pity that this tint will not be freely for sale at the moment.

chesterqw
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omg that glow in dark insert…
want

Johm
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How would the Luxeon V2’s work in the FW3A?

I mean, can the V2s take direct drive? or will they die?
Does anyone have experience with direct driving the Luxeon V2 leds?

M3CSL
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I have plenty of DD Luxeon V2 in my lights, mainly the L1V2-3070000000000 and the L1V2-5070000000000 (arrow.com). Not a problem. Best beam outcome was with tint mixing (3/4 and 5K mixed).
edit: all on copper dtp boards, of course

Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t

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Thank you M3CSL.

I also have some 5000K V2 from arrow and really like them.
It’s good to know I can use them in DD.

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FW4A I wanted the clip at the head for bezel up carry, opened the front bezel opening about half of what it was, tuned up everything, it’s pumping out over 4000lms in the T/A Maukka Tube. Thumbs Up

.

.

Drilled out the legs on the triple for Ice Blue Trits for the wifes light, too cheap to buy them already done up, saved a few bucks, (BLF right?) I was thinking on doing trit’s for the quad too…. maybe….

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

teacher
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Nice work KB. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JaredM
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Awesome KawiBoy!

It’s crazy, just an hour ago I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this. I was going to put it under the bezel ring but the threads are too large for the clip to slide over.. I didn’t feel like diving into grinding out the clip today. Gotta get real stuff done today Facepalm

Umpi2000
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KB, so is the quad sticking around now? Did you machine the bezel opening bigger for the quad?
The polished look is incredible

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Umpi2000 wrote:
KB, so is the quad sticking around now? Did you machine the bezel opening bigger for the quad?
The polished look is incredible

Thanks!

. Thanks everyone who commented too! Thumbs Up

. Is it sticking around? Dunno… it isn’t done yet….

. I opened the lens aperture up about 1.5mm from stock with an air grinder and tootsie roll, then opened up the bezel bevel with a large chamfer tool in the drill press till it cleaned up, then sand/polished.. the spot is a bit cleaner….left pic is the latest….what do you think…. better?

. I have a couple more idea’s I want to kick around, trits in the tail cap, finish the copper spacer in between the driver ring/7135’s to offset the signal tube and close the gap at the tail cap, more or less finish and fit….

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

CRX
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Looks better.

M3CSL
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In my opinion, the left (latest) beam shot is better than before. Looks a bit like a zoomie light in the medium focus setting.
I think you bring a lot of attention to detail and I am looking forward to seeing the end result.

Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t

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Tally-ho wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
it’s awfully hard to beat 219B for tint and general beam quality.
How about colors rendition ? Don’t you see a huge difference between a CRI70 XP-L HI and a 219B ? I’m a little worried for your retinas. Silly

There’s a big difference. That’s why I put 219B in it. Smile

Unfortunately, I also see a difference between older XP-L HI 3D emitters and the ones the FW3A uses. The older ones seem to look better, even side by side.

However, I’d still take this newer 3D tint over most of the SST-20s and LH351Ds I’ve seen. I haven’t tried a SST-20 FA3 yet though. I might like that one. And I haven’t scrubbed the AR coating off my lens yet. Still need to do that.

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JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?

Usually I go for button-up carry. So, on the FW3A that means bezel down, and on an Olight S-Mini, it means bezel up. In both cases, it places the button right where I need it to turn on the light without flipping it around.

KawiBoy1428
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ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?

Usually I go for button-up carry. So, on the FW3A that means bezel down, and on an Olight S-Mini, it means bezel up. In both cases, it places the button right where I need it to turn on the light without flipping it around.


Not just the FW3A any light I carry… specially High Powered lights I carry… I have had HOT Pockets before….Great Balls of/on Fire… Doing the Mexican Hat Dance in the middle of the Isle at work… ect. ect.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

CRX
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Too funny Big Smile

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