FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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BOO5TED
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DoubleU wrote:
BOO5TED wrote:
So, deep carry pocket clips. Anyone make them?

I’m not aware of any production clips. I’d be interested if anyone else knows of one.

I designed a clip and had it cut by a local waterjet company – unfortunately, I used the wrong material, it isn’t stiff enough. I’m not extremely happy with the shape either. I might remake one using stainless steel or a higher grade of titanium.


I have been using the clip from my Emisar D4 until I design a new version

!{width:75%}https://i.imgur.com/VI3U14c.jpg!

That looks great!! I’d be down to buy one from you if you decide to have another go at it. I’ve got a polished titanium FW3 hopefully on the way soon that will be perfect for it.

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mattlward
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That is the one real thing missing on the FW3A, a decent deep carry clip. The stock clip, both V1 and V2 seem to be plenty strong. They do get caught on a seat belt from time to time and I have not killed either one.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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I only hope to add to this thread, not take away from the custom diffusers.

Both the Felix AOD-S and NiteCore NDF25 diffusers fit very, very snugly on the FW3A. They are very useful with candle mode. Of the two, I prefer the AOD-S, as it can be used either tail standing or diffuser down.

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

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LedTed wrote:
I only hope to add to this thread, not take away from the custom diffusers.

Both the Felix AOD-S and NiteCore NDF25 diffusers fit very, very snugly on the FW3A. They are very useful with candle mode. Of the two, I prefer the AOD-S, as it can be used either tail standing or diffuser down.

Thanks for the info. I like the look of the AOD-S.

mattlward
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The AOD-S does not look to bad. I am not a fan of rigid diffusers, they do not pocket well. I really hope to find one of the smallish silicone ones that will fit, none of my selection will fit. The ideal one, for me, would be similar to the one that fits the TiTool. I may try to make a form and form one up, not sure how well that will go.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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SKV89 wrote:
I received the two FW3A, standard dark gray aluminum and the copper. The copper is drop dead gorgeous! The finish is very shiny, almost mirror like. It is the most beautiful copper light I’ve seen yet. Below are my test results:

Copper SST-20 4000K w/ stock Carclo and glass lens
lumens: 1,974
CCT: 3972
DUV: -0.0012
CRI: 95.2
R9: 83.8
Rf: 93
Rg: 102

Copper SST-20 4000K w/ UCL glass lens
lumens: 2,051
CCT: 3960
DUV: -0.0024
CRI: 95.6
R9: 86.0
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with stock non-Carclo optics (no glass lens)
lumens: 1,819
CCT: 3898K
DUV: -0.0025
CRI: 95.8
R9: 86.9
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with Carclo 10509 optics (no glass lens)
lumens: 1,767
CCT: 3982K
DUV: -0.0031
CRI: 96.2
R9: 88.6
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with Carclo 10509 optics (w/ UCL glass lens)
lumens: 1,802
CCT: 3904K
DUV: -0.0029
CRI: 96.3
R9: 87.7
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with Carclo 10509 optics (w/ UCL glass lens) at low output (first blink)
lumens: 99
CCT: 4052K
DUV: 0.0014
CRI: 96.4
R9: 93.4
Rf: 89
Rg: 98

E07 SST-20 4000K FB4 tint bin for comparison:
CCT: 3822K
DUV: 0.0028
CRI: 93.7
R9: 76.5
Rf: 93
Rg: 101

The SST-20 4000k in the FW3A matches the FD2 tint bin. It looks much better than the widely used FB4 tint or 219C 90CRI and high output is almost as good as Cree 5A/5D tint.

Copper version with optic and glass removed on turbo.
CCT: 4556K
DUV: -0.0096
CRI: 95.2

Gray aluminum with optic and glass removed on turbo.
CCT: 4404K
DUV: -0.0109
CRI: 95.7

MF01S with optic and glass removed on turbo
CCT: 4355K
DUV: -0.0096

I have a feeling both of these are FD2 tint bin because from what TA said, there was an extremely limited number of FA3 tint bin on the market in the range of 1,000 pieces only. Fireflies said Luminus recently wanted to make some more FA3 tint bins so there should be more.

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Like the style of the Fenix diffusor, looked it up and ordered it for 4EUR locally, thanks for that!

dragunbayne
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mattlward wrote:
The AOD-S does not look to bad. I am not a fan of rigid diffusers, they do not pocket well. I really hope to find one of the smallish silicone ones that will fit, none of my selection will fit. The ideal one, for me, would be similar to the one that fits the TiTool. I may try to make a form and form one up, not sure how well that will go.

I have yet to find a decent 1” silicone diffuser. That’s what I would prefer also. The Fenix will be for my nightstand.

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Finally got around to modifying Anduril and flashing it with an update that has manual memory and removing a couple modes I never use like some blinkies and muggle mode.

Main alteration which was fairly simple: set it up so that when locked out, instead of going to the second ramp’s floor on the double click it goes to what’s set for manual memory. Much nicer to use for my case, I always accidentally activate it so it sits in lockout most of the time.

This just means I now have a preset double-click momentary in lockout for when I need light for a couple seconds, but don’t have to raise either ramp’s floor. Only drawback is manual memory needs to be activated in order for said function to work.

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Ooop’s I did it again Facepalm

Baby Ti….

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ooop’s I did it again Facepalm

Were you playing around with dad’s shrink ray again? LOL Big Smile Thumbs Up

 

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ooop’s I did it again

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That’s pretty darn cool. Btw. How is the weight of ti vs ti/cu? Is it head heavy?

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ooop’s I did it again Facepalm

Were you playing around with dad’s shrink ray again? LOL Big Smile Thumbs Up
Big Smile Yep….and now I get to play with a Laser/Spot welder..at the local jewelry store/shop.. maybe..

The wife has a friend who owns the store, they make their own jewelry/repair, he has a welder that welds Ti. Love

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contactcr wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ooop’s I did it again

!https://i.gifer.com/5Bzx.gif!


I knew somebody would get it! Wink Thumbs Up

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Gunga wrote:
That’s pretty darn cool. Btw. How is the weight of ti vs ti/cu? Is it head heavy?

Yes…awkwardly so (head) heavy…

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Family group shot…

Shimmed the hole switch package down on the little Ti to make the button almost flush…

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Family group shot… Shimmed the hole switch package down on the little Ti to make the button almost flush… !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/vH82KMn5/IMG-1009.jpg!

Whhhoooaaa!! Nice family…

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ooop’s I did it again Facepalm

Were you playing around with dad’s shrink ray again? LOL Big Smile Thumbs Up
Big Smile Yep….and now I get to play with a Laser/Spot welder..at the local jewelry store/shop.. maybe..

The wife has a friend who owns the store, they make their own jewelry/repair, he has a welder that welds Ti. Love


Wow that baby ti is shorter than the baby al Shocked ….and it will be welded Shocked Shocked ….so if it’s a laser does that mean it can engrave/etch your ti as well? Shocked Shocked Shocked Super nice mod Love

Gunga wrote:
That’s pretty darn cool. Btw. How is the weight of ti vs ti/cu? Is it head heavy?

I was initially surprised at how light the aluminium version was when I first got it. The ti version is noticeably heavier. I realise you’re asking about ti vs ti/cu but I don’t have a plain ti version. I took some measurements of weight. The head has most of the extra weight but not all of it.

Alu version

Ti/cu version

While I was at it I weighed my D4ti with v2 head (aluminium)

 

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Thanks! Great info. So do you find it head heavy too? Also, your d4 has the aluminum heatsink right? I remember the cu/Ti d4 to be tank like. It was too heavy for me.

Edit: sorry reread your post about the d4 v2 head. How much does the full ti/cu d4 weigh?

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Nice work Thumbs Up

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Gunga wrote:
Thanks! Great info. So do you find it head heavy too? Also, your d4 has the aluminum heatsink right? I remember the cu/Ti d4 to be tank like. It was too heavy for me.

Edit: sorry reread your post about the d4 v2 head. How much does the full ti/cu d4 weigh?


Yes the fw3 ti/cu feels a little head heavy but I don’t feel it’s awkwardly so as kawiboy puts it.

The D4ti is a tank. Stock weight 126g nearly half of the weight is in the head 62g.

The D4v2 is 71g and 27g respectively.

Note – the Lego only works one way. By that I mean the V2 head fits the ti body but the cu head does not fit the Al body. Reason being different thread profile, the older being v-cut the newer being square or trapezoid.

 

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Shimmed the hole switch package down on the little Ti to make the button almost flush…

Any pics of that operation ? I’d love to make the switch flush on mine

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X3 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Shimmed the hole switch package down on the little Ti to make the button almost flush…

Any pics of that operation ? I’d love to make the switch flush on mine

It is just a copper spacer/sealing ring(s) that were laying around, I pounded it flat enough to the size of the switch pcb… I made 2 of them 1mm thick.

. I packed the button with a little bit of NO-OX-ID, (the cap/button jiggles a little) set the rubber boot in and then the copper spacer, switch and retaining ring, it works with out the retaining ring also…

. Just tried it on my Ti/Cu …..it works just the same…

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KawiBoy1428, I’m still praying Wink

Nice work on the Ti version Love

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Does the spacer increase the gap between tailcap and body? So the clip no longer works?

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Posted my fw3t mod in the other thread. Wanted to mention here also that the mcpcb of the ti version is very thick. So no easy mcpcb swapping.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1547996#comment-1547996

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Gunga wrote:
Does the spacer increase the gap between tailcap and body? So the clip no longer works?

It is a tad loose, it will rotate with some effort, i used one of those white FW3A gen 1 white o-rings and it tightened it up.

. But now the trade off, it leaves a bit of a gap between the head and battery tube, because it pushes the signal tube forward some.

. you could shave the front of the battery tube to lessen the gap..

. or throw an o-ring in between the head and body….

. or leave as it be with the gap between body/head…

. or don’t attempt it, just leave it stock Thumbs Up

. Here is a couple pics….

White o-ring installed… Gap at body/head…

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FW3A (gen 1) An attempt to MUGGLE PROOF the FW3A for those that can’t READ the card Big Smile

Going to need the right size Torx bit to get that tail cap off…MUG’s! Wink

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Very nice!

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