FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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Scallywag
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Firelight2 wrote:
F.i.l.a.s wrote:
I swapped the leds to SST20 3500K, really nice tint. But I am getting short somewhere, there is only turbo. I was checking the both sides of driver under stereomicroscope and didn ´t find anything. First I tested leds with a power supply on low miliamps and everything worked as expected. I really have to figure this out :D. Maybe some driver components are touching a flashlight body, don´t know.
Only turbo?

This happened to me on my polished FW3T after I tried swapping in the optics and the new optic pressed too firmly against the emitter.

The problem wasn’t the driver. Rather it was a bad solder job under one of the LEDs. There was a short between the negative contact pad of one LED and the center ground pad. You can test for this as follows:

  • remove the star from the light
  • connect one probe from your DMM to the negative driver wire pad on the top of the star.
  • connect the other probe from your DMM to the side or bottom of the star.

If you get a connection, then you have a short. This short causes the light to bypass the driver completely. The only output you get is max turbo and the switch does nothing. It will turn on in max turbo the instant the battery tube is halfway screwed in.

If you have the same problem, the solution is to reflow the LEDs and check the solder under each one. I did that on mine and it completely fixed the problem.

When you assemble the light, is it instantly turbo or does it ramp up first? Mine did the second after I dis- and re-assembled the switch, and I had to take it all apart and re-assemble carefully according to… There’s instructions somewhere, let me re-find them… The FW3A useful information thread

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Firelight2
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Scallywag wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
F.i.l.a.s wrote:
I swapped the leds to SST20 3500K, really nice tint. But I am getting short somewhere, there is only turbo. I was checking the both sides of driver under stereomicroscope and didn ´t find anything. First I tested leds with a power supply on low miliamps and everything worked as expected. I really have to figure this out :D. Maybe some driver components are touching a flashlight body, don´t know.
Only turbo?

This happened to me on my polished FW3T after I tried swapping in the optics and the new optic pressed too firmly against the emitter.

The problem wasn’t the driver. Rather it was a bad solder job under one of the LEDs. There was a short between the negative contact pad of one LED and the center ground pad. You can test for this as follows:

  • remove the star from the light
  • connect one probe from your DMM to the negative driver wire pad on the top of the star.
  • connect the other probe from your DMM to the side or bottom of the star.

If you get a connection, then you have a short. This short causes the light to bypass the driver completely. The only output you get is max turbo and the switch does nothing. It will turn on in max turbo the instant the battery tube is halfway screwed in.

If you have the same problem, the solution is to reflow the LEDs and check the solder under each one. I did that on mine and it completely fixed the problem.

When you assemble the light, is it instantly turbo or does it ramp up first? Mine did the second after I dis- and re-assembled the switch, and I had to take it all apart and re-assemble carefully according to… There’s instructions somewhere, let me re-find them… The FW3A useful information thread

If it’s instantly on turbo and the switch does nothing the driver is probably being bypassed.

If it actually ramps up then the problem is probably a short in the battery compartment between the inner tube and the outer casing.

JaredM
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I love the look of the hammered copper this guy did !{width:80%}https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GWEGFNawkwWW8LwCafrgRAPMO9iFjtTdddViwD...!

Dang. That’s some artwork.

Also, couldn’t help but notice how nice the non-tapered battery tube looks.. (sorry in advance)

F.i.l.a.s
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Firelight2, you were right, I resoldered the leds and problem was solved. I should check if leds are grounded sooner with a power supply Facepalm Big Smile . Thanks for help, as always nice advices here.

BOO5TED
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JaredM wrote:
Also, couldn’t help but notice how nice the non-tapered battery tube looks.. (sorry in advance)

That’ the first thing I noticed lol, really like the look of it.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

Firelight2
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F.i.l.a.s wrote:
Firelight2, you were right, I resoldered the leds and problem was solved. I should check if leds are grounded sooner with a power supply Facepalm Big Smile . Thanks for help, as always nice advices here.

Happy to help! Thumbs Up Cool
Firelight2
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My o-rings arrived for the FW3A.

Very quick mod. Disassemble the switch, pull out the nubbin, install the o-ring. Reassemble.

The difference is absolutely amazing! The switch still has a nice distinct click, but now requires much more pressure to activate. This is the way it should have shipped out of the box! Love

xevious
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Firelight2 wrote:
My o-rings arrived for the FW3A.

Very quick mod. Disassemble the switch, pull out the nubbin, install the o-ring. Reassemble.

The difference is absolutely amazing! The switch still has a nice distinct click, but now requires much more pressure to activate. This is the way it should have shipped out of the box! Love

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Which size did you use?
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xevious wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
My o-rings arrived for the FW3A.

Very quick mod. Disassemble the switch, pull out the nubbin, install the o-ring. Reassemble.

The difference is absolutely amazing! The switch still has a nice distinct click, but now requires much more pressure to activate. This is the way it should have shipped out of the box! Love

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Which size did you use?

I bought these o-rings from Amazon. The link was from someone else earlier in this thread. They work great!

xevious
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I didn’t like those 3D printed diffusers made for the FW3A, so I looked around and found a 25.4mm one by Nitecore that fits perfectly. A good snug fit that is nicely secure.


Installed the aqua GITD optic insert. It’s an attractive color, but unfortunately doesn’t radiate as long as the green one. The saturation below is a bit washed out in the photo, but in person it’s richer. The stainless steel bezel is nicely finished, worth the $4 USD.

cyclops
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Firelight2 wrote:
xevious wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
My o-rings arrived for the FW3A.

Very quick mod. Disassemble the switch, pull out the nubbin, install the o-ring. Reassemble.

The difference is absolutely amazing! The switch still has a nice distinct click, but now requires much more pressure to activate. This is the way it should have shipped out of the box! Love

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Which size did you use?

I bought these o-rings from Amazon. The link was from someone else earlier in this thread. They work great!

I was thinking of ordering this from Amazon but will try to find some local store. Even though it does not costs much, I hate to waste the remaining 99 and them taking space in my already overflowing drawer!

ttylamg
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With the o ring my still accidentally turned on. I wish the o ring would give was just a tiny bit more firmness

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

Firelight2
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cyclops wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
I bought these o-rings from Amazon. The link was from someone else earlier in this thread. They work great!

I was thinking of ordering this from Amazon but will try to find some local store. Even though it does not costs much, I hate to waste the remaining 99 and them taking space in my already overflowing drawer!


Think of it this way:

When you trip and spill 99 of them on the floor, you won’t have to bend down, because there will still be one in the bag! Ughh

Firelight2
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ttylamg wrote:
With the o ring my still accidentally turned on. I wish the o ring would give was just a tiny bit more firmness
Did you remove the nubbin? Adding the o-ring without removing the nubbin doesn’t help.

Still… even with the o-ring mod there is still a risk of accidental activation. If you want to reduce the risk further you might want to try gluing a washer on the end of the light in addition to the o-ring mod.

ttylamg
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Firelight2 wrote:
Did you remove the nubbin? Adding the o-ring without removing the nubbin doesn’t help.

Still… even with the o-ring mod there is still a risk of accidental activation. If you want to reduce the risk further you might want to try gluing a washer on the end of the light in addition to the o-ring mod.


Ah yes that explains it, it feels totally different now. When you say washer do you mean externally? I don’t want to add to it’s bulk, any other easy mod inside to help this?

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

anonymous_user
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I just did the washer mod for the switch on my FW3T and the difference seems like night and day. It is stiffer and seems clicky now. I can’t wait to see if it helps with accidental activations.

xevious
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For the GITD insert, I started with the green. I liked the tint of the aqua better, so I got it. It looks nice, but it’s not as bright as the green. I took some photos. And actually, the photos make the aqua appear a little brighter than it is. Green is noticeably more radiant.

Approx. 3 hours later, it’s obvious green is still better. The aqua is still visible, barely. But both relative to tritium are dimmer.

treellama
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Got some O-rings and modded two of my three FW3As. The third one has the original (and greatest) switch and with the O-ring it is way too firm.

I notice that the O-ring switches are a little bouncy now: sometimes clicking four times to lock out puts it in momentary mode (five clicks) instead. Putting it in momentary mode, I can see that occasionally it bounces when I release the switch.

I’m still carrying it with the O-ring and trying to slow down and be more deliberate about locking/unlocking. Because it’s way better than the unmodified switch. But the bounciness may eventually cause me to reinstall the nubbin.

JaredM
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Bounciness sounds like preload to me. Make sure the o-ring slid/squeezed out of place. Disassemble and reinstall if you haven’t already. Good luck!

Jan_Ds
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Hi folks,
Thinking about a swap to SW45k 219b.

Stupid question:
Does the 219c stock version already have the 50% FET Firmware flashed from factory?
Or do I need to reflash when swapping the 219c for a 219b?
Thx

trakcon
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Jan_Ds wrote:
Hi folks,
Thinking about a swap to SW45k 219b.

Stupid question:
Does the 219c stock version already have the 50% FET Firmware flashed from factory?
Or do I need to reflash when swapping the 219c for a 219b?
Thx

I’m pretty sure it does not have the reduced FET firmware from the factory.
I’m planning to swap 219B into some of mine and will be flashing the firmware as I go.

treellama
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Hmm, it’s centered around the circle where the nubbin used to be. In addition to the bounciness what has bothered me more after more use is sometimes it clicks but doesn’t activate the light.

This is with the 3/16” ID; I might try to track down some 5/32” and try those, because I love the feel. But, it needs to turn on every time I click it.

JaredM
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grin wrote:
FW21 !{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/pZrkHS5.jpg!

Very cool! Which reflector did you utilize in this? More pics? Beamshots? Are we there yet? LOL

pinkpanda3310
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Wow, nice work grin Thumbs Up

grin
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Thanks Woke at 2.30am and couldnt sleep so I went out to the lathe. It is a bit rough and i dont have oring for the bezel. Kaidomain reflector 38mm diameter 42mm deep, I put a 1mm2 osram in it that was sitting on my table but turned angry blue on turbo so I put xpl hi in.


mk2rocco
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Lots of great info here! I did the oring tailcap mod and am very happy with the new stiffer feel.

I ordered a new pocket clip made for a HDS, looks at though it’s gonna be a perfect fit. I’ll report back when it arrives.

https://darksucks.com/collections/titanium-pocket-clips-1/products/hds-t...

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Did the DarkSucks clip fit?

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

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Hope you like it an hit the button as hard as i need now Wink
 

 

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Nice before and after comparison M4D M4X Thumbs Up

After watching that I’m curious to know how much pressure is needed for the o-ring mod.

cyclops
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Why copper wire though? Does current passes through? I was wondering if I can use a paper clip! Smile

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