FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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Umpi2000
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KB the new beam profile is definitely better after your work, I may need to pick your brain So I can do this mod too

Firelight2
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Umpi2000 wrote:
KB the new beam profile is definitely better after your work, I may need to pick your brain So I can do this mod too

Agreed. The new quad beam profile looks better after working on it.

I’m not sure making this light a quad is any better than keeping it a triple though.

xevious
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ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile
JaredM
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xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile

Good point. I don’t wear caps, but for those that do Thumbs Up

I’ve always preferred bezel down carry, and actually never have used a bezel-up clip. But with the FW3A’s lack of a deep carry clip plus the sensitive, lightly recessed, and large switch often results in accidental activation (without my knowledge mostly). Lockout works, but 5 clicks to turn on the light all the time hasn’t won me over yet. I either always forget to lock it out or when I do then I’m surprised that it isn’t turning on.That’s not to say I’m unhappy with it, as I’m still adapting to the UI and ergonomics.

My thoughts on bezel-up here is that I think the switch might actually be safer from accidental activation inside my pocket (definitely debatable) and if/when it does happen, I can see that it happened quickly. Ergo is a wash for me, either way is fine. Downsides (pun?) are the your lens/optic is exposed and that the direction of the body taper would be reversed relative to the clip.

In short, I’m curious Smile

cabfrank
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xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile

This for me too. It works great for grilling out in the evening.
djozz
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JaredM wrote:
xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile

Good point. I don’t wear caps, but for those that do Thumbs Up

I’ve always preferred bezel down carry, and actually never have used a bezel-up clip. But with the FW3A’s lack of a deep carry clip plus the sensitive, lightly recessed, and large switch often results in accidental activation (without my knowledge mostly). Lockout works, but 5 clicks to turn on the light all the time hasn’t won me over yet. I either always forget to lock it out or when I do then I’m surprised that it isn’t turning on.That’s not to say I’m unhappy with it, as I’m still adapting to the UI and ergonomics.

My thoughts on bezel-up here is that I think the switch might actually be safer from accidental activation inside my pocket (definitely debatable) and if/when it does happen, I can see that it happened quickly. Ergo is a wash for me, either way is fine. Downsides (pun?) are the your lens/optic is exposed and that the direction of the body taper would be reversed relative to the clip.

In short, I’m curious Smile


I found that the muggle mode makes the FW3A very safe in my pocket, if activated accidentally, it never gets hot. And the brightness range is adequate for 95% of my EDC-needs.
djozz
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TK wrote:
I haven’t tried a SST-20 FA3 yet though. I might like that one.

I think that you do not like it because it is still a very clean white with nothing rosy in it. It is not green by itself but looks “green” next to the high CRI 4000K 219B, and even next to a (70CRI) 4000K Luxeon V.
JaredM
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djozz wrote:
I found that the muggle mode makes the FW3A very safe in my pocket, if activated accidentally, it never gets hot. And the brightness range is adequate for 95% of my EDC-needs.

I always have the memorized mode set to the first flash in the ramp sequence, so it doesn’t get hot if it does turn on. That’s good for obvious reasons, but at the same time bad since it can drain a cell for hours before I notice.

djozz
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JaredM wrote:
djozz wrote:
I found that the muggle mode makes the FW3A very safe in my pocket, if activated accidentally, it never gets hot. And the brightness range is adequate for 95% of my EDC-needs.

I always have the memorized mode set to the first flash in the ramp sequence, so it doesn’t get hot if it does turn on. That’s good for obvious reasons, but at the same time bad since it can drain a cell for hours before I notice.


Yep, that is the downside. The FW3A draws about 600mA in maximum muggle, so if stuck in max it drains a 3000mAh cell in 5 hours.
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Tally-ho wrote:
You could also wait for Clemence’s triple for Nichia E21A LED that will show up in his store one day. Both will need an FW3A firmware modification to not burn LEDs.

Has he stated he’ll be making one for 100%? And wasn’t it supposed to be 21mm instead of 20mm? I’d love to see E21A’s in this light.

Has anyone measured the current draw with the 219 50% fet firmware Toykeeper made? Three E21A’s could handle around 6A max.

djozz wrote:
I think that you do not like it because it is still a very clean white with nothing rosy in it. It is not green by itself but looks “green” next to the high CRI 4000K 219B, and even next to a (70CRI) 4000K Luxeon V.

This will also happen with d240 4000K Nichia E21A’s.

good tint: Nichia E21A 2000K-7500K except d240 bin, Nichia 219B sw40/sw45, 219C sw303, Cree XPL-HI A/D bins, XHP70.2 5A, Samsung shaved LH351D's, Luminus shaved SST-20's.

KawiBoy1428
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xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile

Yep that too, I have a cute little Quark 123 that I modded that fits the “bill” perfectly.

. But also way back in the beginning of the FW3A thread, I asked if the clip could be bezel up mounted also, somebody said it couldn’t be done, the way the light was designed, I never forgot that…. Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

KawiBoy1428
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Firelight2 wrote:
Umpi2000 wrote:
KB the new beam profile is definitely better after your work, I may need to pick your brain So I can do this mod too

Agreed. The new quad beam profile looks better after working on it.

I’m not sure making this light a quad is any better than keeping it a triple though.


It’s not, hard to beat the stock light, it was something to do, thats all. I’ll probably have 5 of these FW3A’s when all is said and done, this one will be different then the rest.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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Umpi2000 wrote:
KB the new beam profile is definitely better after your work, I may need to pick your brain So I can do this mod too

OK, fitting the optic and fitting the optic to the light engine were the most time consuming task’s.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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cabfrank wrote:
xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile

This for me too. It works great for grilling out in the evening.

…..BBQ by Candle or Lightening storm… Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

djozz
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Improved the grip and the looks of my FW3A with a piece of bicycle inner tire (narrow racing bicycle type).

PBWilson
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Nice!

Bike inner tubes are really helpful items. They can be used as large rubber bands and even firestarters (gross smoke, but it works). I’ve used an inner tube to clamp some laminates of wood for a project where clamps wouldn’t be practical.

cabfrank
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Great idea, KB. I miss the summer storms of the Midwest anyway. I will probably look crazy, but I will give it a try.

christoph
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How hard is it to replace the optic? Do I have to keep the optic and lens still so as not twist off the wires? If so how is the best way to do that with a piece of tape?

Chris

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christoph wrote:
How hard is it to replace the optic? Do I have to keep the optic and lens still so as not twist off the wires? If so how is the best way to do that with a piece of tape?

I replaced the leds so I had the optic (and board) off, and did not worry about twisting the ledwires because they come through the middle hole and seemed long enough to allow one or two extra twists around each other. Everything went well.
CRX
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Detailed thread in the link.

JaredM
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Nice work CRX. Good idea on the signal/inner body tube wrapping and lining. I’ve been using cells that have an extra clear layer of heat-shrink to take the rattle out of the batteries. The less the battery contacts scrub the better..

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Yeah I really don’t like battery rattle so usually line the battery tubes with thin sticky back felt if there is space or use the CF wrap if it’s a bit tighter.

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christoph wrote:
How hard is it to replace the optic? Do I have to keep the optic and lens still so as not twist off the wires? If so how is the best way to do that with a piece of tape?

My optic was stuck in quite firmly by the legs, was a bugger to get out as it pulled up the MCPCB with it so be careful with that.
Firelight2
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CRX wrote:
christoph wrote:
How hard is it to replace the optic? Do I have to keep the optic and lens still so as not twist off the wires? If so how is the best way to do that with a piece of tape?

My optic was stuck in quite firmly by the legs, was a bugger to get out as it pulled up the MCPCB with it so be careful with that.

Replacing the optic in the FW3A isn’t hard. Simply unscrew and remove the bezel. The lens comes with it. The optic is then revealed on top of the star.

The only difficult part is that the top edge of the optic lines up with the top of the head. You’ll need a tool of some kind to reach under the edge of the optic to lever it up. I use a tool that looks similar to a dental pick for this. Just lever it up and work your way around the edges. The optic should come right out.

CRX
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This is true, they usually fall right out but what I’m saying is my one was fairly well stuck into the MCPCB.
Just be wary of that as it will not be the only one like that.
I have changed a few in my time Innocent

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CRX wrote:
This is true, they usually fall right out but what I’m saying is my one was fairly well stuck into the MCPCB.
Just be wary of that as it will not be the only one like that.
I have changed a few in my time Innocent
Yeah, mine was stuck pretty good too… it did not come out easy. But it did come out…. with no broken legs to boot. Wink

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CRX
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I actually had to hold down the MCPCB with a toothpick and pry off the optic, never had one that stuck before.

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The Carclo triple in my Jaxman E2L was stuck so hard that I had to resort to pliers. Believe it or not I didn’t break the optic.. So yeah, these things can be hard to remove.

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CRX wrote:
I actually had to hold down the MCPCB with a toothpick and pry off the optic, never had one that stuck before.

One of mine wanted to stick, and I think it was caused by flux in places where it’s not supposed to be. So it may be a good idea to clean the MCPCB if you open it up… or at least check to see if it’s clean.

CRX
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Yeah I want to check the head out anyway, possibly fit a Noctigon as these MCPCBs look a little rough.

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