FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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pinkpanda3310
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JaredM wrote:
That is it EXACTLY!!

Cool. I wasn’t sure because I don’t own any armytek lights. Looks low profile just like you said Thumbs Up

M4D M4X wrote:
Andreas Schilke from germany made a beautiful mod:


.
.
. This looks awesome. Though I wonder if he’s created weak points in the clip with all those trits??? And does the glue flex along with the clip??? To me it doesn’t look structurally sound. It does look good though Sushi

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i doubt his intention was to create a work light Wink

 

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M4D M4X wrote:

i doubt his intention was to create a work light Wink

M4D M4X is right it’s more art than anything else Wink

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M4D M4X wrote:

Andreas Schilke from germany made a beautiful mod:


That clip looks great! Thanks for sharing, Martin. Thumbs Up Not so sure about so many trit slots but I like the concept. Does Andreas sell those clips through a venue here?
pinkpanda3310
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I get that people have shelf queens but IMO the light still needs to be usable and not fragile. Of course, I don’t know how fragile that clip is. Hence I asked.

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JaredM wrote:
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I asked because that’s what it looked like to me. I don’t know exactly.

That is it EXACTLY!! For some reason I missed this image in your post prior to this. Which model was this from? I’ve bought 4 over the years, three wizards, and a predator back in the day.

EDIT: https://www.armytek.com/accessories/spare-parts/lanyards/lanyard-armytek...

Here it is! Thanks pinkpanda!

For anyone looking for a low profile lanyard ring and is willing/able to do some light modding to get it to fit, there probably aren’t many better options


Has the banggod lanyard ring been ruled out for some reason?

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
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The armytek one is just a low profile option

hodor
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pc_light wrote:
hodor wrote:
Quick question, are LH351D emitters ok in the FW3A running un-throttled firmware? I just swapped in some new sliced LH351D emitters (noctigon mcpcb) and two of them have burnt out Sad A bad reflow maybe?

I wonder if its the emitters themselves?

They’re “rated” /tested to take more but I also burned two out in an FW3A, just not at the same time. I did a reflow and after a while it burned one out. I replaced that one, ran a while, then a different one burned out Facepalm

I went back to the original triple XP-L and haven’t had issues since.

I got mine from Barry (Sofirn). They should be the same ones used in the SP36 Anduril and SP10S. I’ve checked a few now and the majority of them can’t handle many amps. Convoy S2+ (8×7135) for example turns blue on the highest mode. I’ve checked and rechecked the reflows. Ended up reflowing XPL-HIs and Nichia 219Cs and not had any problems. So all signs point towards suspect emitters atm.

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I haven’t kept up so forgive me if this has been done already.
The button was just too sensitive for me so I traded mine shortly after receiving, was recently gifted another and wanted to make it work for me.
I removed the nipple from the center of the rubber disc and replaced it with an o-ring with an I.D. slightly bigger than the O.D. of the nipple.
This isn’t a flashlight-style o-ring but one you’d get out of one of those kits you can buy at harbor freight.
The action is just stiff enough that I don’t turn it on when putting it back in my pocket.
O-ring seems to stay in place from friction so far. It fits into the dished area around the nipple mounting point.
Instead of the nipple pushing in the very center of the membrane switch, the o-ring pushes further out on the dome.
Works great for now, will update post if there are any issues.

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/\ Cool — glad to hear you were able to work out the o-ring DIY with success, bansuri!
I’m still using mine with 5/32 and it works great. Must keep tailcap very tight, though. If it loosens just a little, light will cut off above certain brightness level. This looseness can happen if you lockout, which I still do when I’m not using the light for a while. It’s habit. But I’m guessing it won’t do anything regarding parasitic drain… and in any case, drain is probably so very slight, pretty much inconsequential. I know… OCD! Oops

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contactcr wrote:
For stuff like FW3A after you mod you only want to test it without bezel on low settings to verify function. When you are ready to crank it up better have bezel tightened and if you see slightest hint of blue turn it off.

Why is that? Is the bezel used as the heat-sink for the LEDs? I thought the heat-sink would be attached to the head, below the bezel. Or is it just extra metal that is needed to suck up some additional heat that the rest of the body can’t do?

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I think that recommendation is based on the fact that fw3a doesn’t have the mcpcb screwed down and relies on the clamping force from the optic and bezel for reliable thermal interface.

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Ah, okay, that makes sense. Thanks.

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What’s the inner diameter on those Armytek rings? Is enlarging the diameter the mod that’s needed?

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I don’t have the exact measurements, but if I remember correctly, the ID was 0.9mm smaller that the largest part of the body tube. Took about 10 minutes carefully grinding the ring to get it sized perfectly.I used a Dremel with a sanding drum

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Anyone put Nichia 219B into it? Not too much current on turbo?
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sp5it wrote:
Anyone put Nichia 219B into it? Not too much current on turbo? Mike

219Bs need a low drain cell which drops a lot of voltage when FET switching

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That’s not good. I have to rethink that.
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sp5it wrote:
Anyone put Nichia 219B into it? Not too much current on turbo? Mike

There’s also a 219B specific firmware that can be flashed for more protection.

I have sw35’s in one of mine, using the 219B firmware and a GA battery. I generally just avoid turbo to be cautious, though. Max regulated is enough for my uses.

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trakcon wrote:
sp5it wrote:
Anyone put Nichia 219B into it? Not too much current on turbo? Mike

There’s also a 219B specific firmware that can be flashed for more protection.

I have sw35’s in one of mine, using the 219B firmware and a GA battery. I generally just avoid turbo to be cautious, though. Max regulated is enough for my uses.

Thats just reducing the average current, not the peak current
So you deal only with heat not things like Auger recombination

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Lexel wrote:
trakcon wrote:
sp5it wrote:
Anyone put Nichia 219B into it? Not too much current on turbo? Mike

There’s also a 219B specific firmware that can be flashed for more protection.

I have sw35’s in one of mine, using the 219B firmware and a GA battery. I generally just avoid turbo to be cautious, though. Max regulated is enough for my uses.

Thats just reducing the average current, not the peak current
So you deal only with heat not things like Auger recombination

I’ve wondered about that. It’s one reason I stay out of FET with my 219B’s.

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Little update on this awesome light using 1 SMD 0805 red led and 1 SMD 12K resistor.



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/\ VERY cool, Ryley! Thumbs Up

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I did a 219b swap. I flashed a modified version of Anduril that was limited to 60% FET max (219 version in FSM is 75% iirc) and use an NCR18650GA as well as keeping the thermal ceiling around 50-55C. It’ll happily sit in turbo until it throttles without any issues. Didn’t try it with a high-drain cell, I imagine I’d need to be a little more careful with something like a 30Q or higher.

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Ignorant here, I have replaced the 219C emitters on my FW3A with 219B ones, no other changes made and I am using a. LG HG2 cell.

Can someone please sum up the issues my setup has and how to fix them?

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The 219B config in FSM is 50% FET. I haven’t seen any trouble turboing mine but I’ve never done it for long—and I don’t know if the LEDs get damaged before they start to turn blue.

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DarkShot wrote:
I did a 219b swap. I flashed a modified version of Anduril that was limited to 60% FET max (219 version in FSM is 75% iirc) and use an NCR18650GA as well as keeping the thermal ceiling around 50-55C. It’ll happily sit in turbo until it throttles without any issues. Didn’t try it with a high-drain cell, I imagine I’d need to be a little more careful with something like a 30Q or higher.

From where could I download it?
Turbo can’t be disabled via firmware mod?
Mike

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sp5it wrote:
DarkShot wrote:
I did a 219b swap. I flashed a modified version of Anduril that was limited to 60% FET max (219 version in FSM is 75% iirc) and use an NCR18650GA as well as keeping the thermal ceiling around 50-55C. It’ll happily sit in turbo until it throttles without any issues. Didn’t try it with a high-drain cell, I imagine I’d need to be a little more careful with something like a 30Q or higher.
From where could I download it? Turbo can’t be disabled via firmware mod? Mike

Actually, I’m pretty sure TK posted a no-FET version recently.

Edit:
Found it: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/?C=M;O=D

The file is anduril.2019-12-17.fw3a-nofet.hex

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One thing I noticed about my FW3 series lights was that the switch wasn’t equal in all of them. My 2 first run FW3As had noticeably stiffer and clickier switches than in the later run models. And one in particular seemed much stiffer. However, even that stiff switch still seemed to require less pressure than all the other switches when those other switches received the o-ring mod and the stiff one had not.

This morning I finally performed the o-ring mod on the stiffest switch.

I’m thinking this might actually be a bit TOO stiff now.

  • Using a postal scale I measured 78 oz of pressure is now required to depress the switch … that’s nearly 5 pounds (approximately 2200 grams)!!! You could stand an empty BLF GT on the switch and it would not be enough weight to depress it.
  • When the switch does cycle it now makes a very loud click … as loud as a clicky flashlight and much louder than all my other e-switch lights.
  • On the upside, the switch is now so stiff, chances of accidentally pocket activation are probably near zero. This would mean I could set max ramp at max turbo and probably not have to worry about accidentally burning a hole in my pocket.

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Another installation for my friend. Lexel aux board with direct power from battery, 2 color led, 1mA. Slightly too bright for this setup, but it still cool anyway.


Still pretty bright on moonlight mode

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