FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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raccoon city
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Isn't 1cm wide a bit small for FW3A?

fluke
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Glow In The Dark Gaskets?

I'm in the UK anyone know where to get them?

Found them on etsy but dont ship to UK.

CRX
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I have some.

fluke
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CRX wrote:
I have some.

 

Fantastic.

How much?

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Fiver & postage. Got green or aqua blue.

fluke
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CRX wrote:
Fiver & postage. Got green or aqua blue. !{width:99%}https://i.imgur.com/PRbnwDa.jpg!:https://i.imgur.com/vpGpkka.jpg[/quote]

 

 

2 x Green.

2 x Blue.

Thank You.

 

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Cool, I’ll send you a message later Thumbs Up

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G0OSE
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raccoon city wrote:

Isn’t 1cm wide a bit small for FW3A?


You know I didn’t even see the size, it just looked about right on the finger lol, but you could still use it?
mortuus
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CRX is your modded light for sale?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

raccoon city
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G0OSE wrote:

you could still use it?

Sure!  :BEER:

Here's the same auction on eBay.com:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-Titanium-Alloy-with-Tritium-Tube-Automatic-Glows-DIY-Round-3M-Sticker/123451091983

(I was looking for different sizes on eBay and AliExpress, but didn't find any.)

G0OSE
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raccoon city wrote:

G0OSE wrote:

you could still use it?


Sure!  alt=:" />


Here’s the same auction on eBay.com:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-Titanium-Alloy-with-Tritium-Tube-Automatic-Glows-DIY-Round-3M-Sticker/123451091983


(I was looking for different sizes on eBay and AliExpress, but didn’t find any.)


Thanks, I was looking for some time last night for some tritium bits, but that is the nearest thing I could find other than plain vials. Shame they don’t do different sizes…… to be honest I was trying to find disks (like thin marker dots) but with no luck.
As it goes they have some pretty funky stuff in their shop, some of that carbon material is lovely!
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G0OSE wrote:
Just found these on ebay – may be of use, just sticks right on! Comes in a variety of colours too LINK !https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EDAAAOSwWgdb0rqu/s-l500.jpg!

Much cheaper here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EDC-Self-luminous-25-Years-DIY-Titanium-Chip-1-5×6mm-Tritium-Tube-Patch-Luminous-Tritium-Gas/32887049510.html

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Agro wrote:
G0OSE wrote:
Just found these on ebay – may be of use, just sticks right on! Comes in a variety of colours too LINK !https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EDAAAOSwWgdb0rqu/s-l500.jpg!

Much cheaper here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EDC-Self-luminous-25-Years-DIY-Titanium-Chip-1-5×6mm-Tritium-Tube-Patch-Luminous-Tritium-Gas/32887049510.html


Nice find, thank you for that!
Grrr……. they don’t take Paypal Facepalm a quick search using ‘tritium patch’ found one that does though, bit more expensive.

I also found these rectangular tritium tubes. They are quite pricey though!

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Firelight2 wrote:

Replacing the optic in the FW3A isn’t hard. Simply unscrew and remove the bezel.

There is a bezel? I’m confused, do you have any photos?
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stephenk wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:

Replacing the optic in the FW3A isn’t hard. Simply unscrew and remove the bezel.

There is a bezel? I’m confused, do you have any photos?

They mean the head and or retaining ring I imagine.
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mortuus wrote:
CRX is your modded light for sale?

No mate, this is a wee keeper Wink
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ToyKeeper wrote:
CRX wrote:
I actually had to hold down the MCPCB with a toothpick and pry off the optic, never had one that stuck before.
One of mine wanted to stick, and I think it was caused by flux in places where it's not supposed to be. So it may be a good idea to clean the MCPCB if you open it up... or at least check to see if it's clean.

On my 7A too:

Dang, just noticed 2 tiny beads of solder in this pic as well.

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G0OSE wrote:
stephenk wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Replacing the optic in the FW3A isn't hard. Simply unscrew and remove the bezel.
There is a bezel? I'm confused, do you have any photos?
They mean the head and or retaining ring I imagine.

Fyi, the smooth end unscrews, leaving the knurling part, so there's a thread break between those 2 sections of the head.

stephenk
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Tom E wrote:

G0OSE wrote:
stephenk wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Replacing the optic in the FW3A isn’t hard. Simply unscrew and remove the bezel.
There is a bezel? I’m confused, do you have any photos?
They mean the head and or retaining ring I imagine.

Fyi, the smooth end unscrews, leaving the knurling part, so there’s a thread break between those 2 sections of the head.


Thanks, got it now. The gap between the smooth bit of the head and the knurling was so seamless that it didn’t look like there was a joint there.
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stephenk wrote:
Thanks, got it now. The gap between the smooth bit of the head and the knurling was so seamless that it didn't look like there was a joint there.

I was just reading through and saw the references to the bezel. I also didn't see the gap at all (by comparison, the gap between body and head is quite visible) but I just tried twisting anyway, feeling stupid until it turned.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
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CRX wrote:
Fiver & postage. Got green or aqua blue.

Any chance of making a red ?

Bob_McBob
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Both FW3As I’ve modded so far had small amounts of flux on the LEDs.

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I would like 1 of each CRX.

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CRX wrote:
I would need to order red GITD powder so an extra couple quid?

Sounds good.
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JaredM wrote:
xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JaredM wrote:
I was thinking about bezel up carry and how to mod/make a clip work for this.

I’m curious. What is the appeal of bezel-up carry on a FW3A?


One thing I like about bezel up is that the light can be cap brim mounted for use as a headlamp. Smile

Good point. I don’t wear caps, but for those that do Thumbs Up

I’ve always preferred bezel down carry, and actually never have used a bezel-up clip. But with the FW3A’s lack of a deep carry clip plus the sensitive, lightly recessed, and large switch often results in accidental activation (without my knowledge mostly). Lockout works, but 5 clicks to turn on the light all the time hasn’t won me over yet. I either always forget to lock it out or when I do then I’m surprised that it isn’t turning on.That’s not to say I’m unhappy with it, as I’m still adapting to the UI and ergonomics.

My thoughts on bezel-up here is that I think the switch might actually be safer from accidental activation inside my pocket (definitely debatable) and if/when it does happen, I can see that it happened quickly. Ergo is a wash for me, either way is fine. Downsides (pun?) are the your lens/optic is exposed and that the direction of the body taper would be reversed relative to the clip.

In short, I’m curious Smile


Do a physical lockout. A slight turn of the head or tail achieves it easily on the FW3A. I do this by habit with all my lights as I absolutely hate parasitic drain, no matter how faint. Wink
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xevious wrote:
Do a physical lockout. A slight turn of the head or tail achieves it easily on the FW3A. I do this by habit with all my lights as I absolutely hate parasitic drain, no matter how faint. Wink

That doesn’t actually lock out the FW3A, because it doesn’t disconnect power.

For example… turn on the FW3A at a low level. Then start unscrewing the head from the body of the light. On mine, the light doesn’t actually stop coming out until about three full turns later, well after the O-ring is exposed.

Alternately, take the head off completely… then screw it on. How far does it get before the light blinks to indicate that power has been connected?

It’s designed to be in a completely bare aluminum host. The threads are not anodized, nor are they meant to be. Twisting it a quarter turn doesn’t really do anything except break contact for the switch ring.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
xevious wrote:
Do a physical lockout. A slight turn of the head or tail achieves it easily on the FW3A. I do this by habit with all my lights as I absolutely hate parasitic drain, no matter how faint. Wink

That doesn’t actually lock out the FW3A, because it doesn’t disconnect power.

For example… turn on the FW3A at a low level. Then start unscrewing the head from the body of the light. On mine, the light doesn’t actually stop coming out until about three full turns later, well after the O-ring is exposed.

Alternately, take the head off completely… then screw it on. How far does it get before the light blinks to indicate that power has been connected?

It’s designed to be in a completely bare aluminum host. The threads are not anodized, nor are they meant to be. Twisting it a quarter turn doesn’t really do anything except break contact for the switch ring.


Ah, interesting. I did what you suggested and saw that the illumination kept going even after a full turn of the tail. However, turning the head caused it to cut out right away… just like a mechanical lockout.. I’m guessing there’s no difference in parasitic drain, but so low to be negligible, right?
Saw this post in the other FW3A companion thread: LINK.
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xevious wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
xevious wrote:
Do a physical lockout. A slight turn of the head or tail achieves it easily on the FW3A. I do this by habit with all my lights as I absolutely hate parasitic drain, no matter how faint. Wink

That doesn’t actually lock out the FW3A, because it doesn’t disconnect power.

For example… turn on the FW3A at a low level. Then start unscrewing the head from the body of the light. On mine, the light doesn’t actually stop coming out until about three full turns later, well after the O-ring is exposed.

Alternately, take the head off completely… then screw it on. How far does it get before the light blinks to indicate that power has been connected?

It’s designed to be in a completely bare aluminum host. The threads are not anodized, nor are they meant to be. Twisting it a quarter turn doesn’t really do anything except break contact for the switch ring.


Ah, interesting. I did what you suggested and saw that the illumination kept going even after a full turn of the tail. However, turning the head caused it to cut out right away… just like a mechanical lockout.. I’m guessing there’s no difference in parasitic drain, but so low to be negligible, right?
Saw this post in the other FW3A companion thread: LINK.

I think you have some dirty threads or something, when I unscrew the head a bit when the light is on, it stays on but disables the switch. Of course when a electrical disconnection occurs for a very short time during the unscrewing action , the light will go out.
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Got mine yesterday, had it for about 5 hours before tearing it apart and trying some reflows. The stock X-PL HI had a great beam profile but I really have been spoiled by high CRI and warmer tints. Mine were definitely a bit north of 5000K.

First were 4500K 219Bs from a PL47 (sw45 then I think?), and on 8×7135 they were fine but at full turbo with a NCR18650GA charged to only 3.9v they would go very purple. Tint was nice and output surprising good even at max ramp, similar beam to these emitters in any other TIR light.

Wanted something I could run at turbo without as much heat and not have to worry about killing the emitters so shaved LH351D 5000K “dogfarts” were up next. Tint is obviously still more green than the 219Bs (isn’t everything?) but better than 219C 5000K 90CRI for sure and just about any emitter not known for being super low/negative duv. Beam profile is pretty floody, especially with the frosted optic but the shaving definitely makes these emitters more throwy and I really don’t have any desire to swap to a throwier optic right now. Heat is probably a bit more than the XPL HIs but nothing outrageous for a light this small. Output is visually similar to stock emitters, just with a wider beam. Wider hotspot with smoother transition to a more narrow spill when compared to XPL HI. Warmer CCT than stock 3Ds but still cooler than my 4500K SC600.

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