FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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BurningPlayd0h
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swiftblade13 wrote:
I was sure that 219c’s were what I wanted but now I don’t even know, I just don’t want to have to learn how to reflow led’s so gaskets is what I’m getting

You can buy 3x boards with just about any emitter already flowed and only need to solder the wires into place.

swiftblade13
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
swiftblade13 wrote:
I was sure that 219c’s were what I wanted but now I don’t even know, I just don’t want to have to learn how to reflow led’s so gaskets is what I’m getting

You can buy 3x boards with just about any emitter already flowed and only need to solder the wires into place.

Even 219b?
CRX
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Cool, thanks for the input, I was hoping someone would go over it Thumbs Up
I’m just trying to make the chart more obvious as a few people are having difficulty with the UI functions, I found the original a little hard to grasp at first look.

How’s this now?

BurningPlayd0h
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swiftblade13 wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
swiftblade13 wrote:
I was sure that 219c’s were what I wanted but now I don’t even know, I just don’t want to have to learn how to reflow led’s so gaskets is what I’m getting

You can buy 3x boards with just about any emitter already flowed and only need to solder the wires into place.

Even 219b?

Kaidomain has some 219B 5700K triples but I’m guessing you’re looking for warmer. In that case you’ll have to reflow.

It’s honestly easier than I ever though it would be. I just use a “helping hands” hobby stand to hold the MCPCB and hit the underside with a mini butane torch (the kind for doing heatshrink, etc.)

Solder paste is cheap, I would suggest leaded but you can just use regular solder if you want/need to just fine.

TheOnlyDocc
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Now 3 LH351D 5000K and the 10509 are waiting for the FW3A.

I hope they do not need another month to get the SST- 20 version ready to shipp!

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

saypat
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… wow, a floody delight! That would be my first choice as well. Please follow up with us when everything is done.

swiftblade13
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
swiftblade13 wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
swiftblade13 wrote:
I was sure that 219c’s were what I wanted but now I don’t even know, I just don’t want to have to learn how to reflow led’s so gaskets is what I’m getting

You can buy 3x boards with just about any emitter already flowed and only need to solder the wires into place.

Even 219b?

Kaidomain has some 219B 5700K triples but I’m guessing you’re looking for warmer. In that case you’ll have to reflow.

It’s honestly easier than I ever though it would be. I just use a “helping hands” hobby stand to hold the MCPCB and hit the underside with a mini butane torch (the kind for doing heatshrink, etc.)

Solder paste is cheap, I would suggest leaded but you can just use regular solder if you want/need to just fine.


I’m looking for highest possible cri, so yeah…

Are the Samsung emitters that seem to be in the running for the next best thing (dogfarts?), available on a triple mpcb?

TheOnlyDocc
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In 4000K you can order it directly from Led4Power https://led4power.com/product/3x-samsung-lh351d-4000k-90cri-led-sphwhtl3...

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Tally-ho
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swiftblade13 wrote:
I’m looking for highest possible cri, so yeah…

Are the Samsung emitters that seem to be in the running for the next best thing (dogfarts?), available on a triple mpcb?


For highest possible CRI, you should wait for the FW3A with Luminus SST-20 that will have at least better red colors rendition than the Samsung LH351D, which has a CRI level comparable to Nichia 219C.
Nichia 219B > Nichia 219C
Luminus SST-20 > Samsung LH351D
swiftblade13
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Tally-ho wrote:
swiftblade13 wrote:
I’m looking for highest possible cri, so yeah…

Are the Samsung emitters that seem to be in the running for the next best thing (dogfarts?), available on a triple mpcb?


For highest possible CRI, you should wait for the FW3A with Luminus SST-20 that will have at least better red colors rendition than the Samsung LH351D, which has a CRI level comparable to Nichia 219C.
Nichia 219B > Nichia 219C
Luminus SST-20 > Samsung LH351D

huh ok, Thanks,
Guess I’m still waiting then

xevious
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xevious
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
In 4000K you can order it directly from Led4Power https://led4power.com/product/3x-samsung-lh351d-4000k-90cri-led-sphwhtl3...

That’s a good price for this 3x LH351D MCPCB… but I’m wondering if there’s a similarly priced one available in the USA. Closest I could find was with MTN Electronics, but they’re $15 USD before shipping.
djozz
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Is that a GT in your pocket?..

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xevious wrote:
TheOnlyDocc wrote:
In 4000K you can order it directly from Led4Power https://led4power.com/product/3x-samsung-lh351d-4000k-90cri-led-sphwhtl3...
That’s a good price for this 3x LH351D MCPCB… but I’m wondering if there’s a similarly priced one available in the USA. Closest I could find was with MTN Electronics, but they’re $15 USD before shipping.

LED4Power’s shipping is almost half the time of most Chinese packages and his boards are REALLY nice. I had to take a little bit of a bur off the side of mine where the boards snap apart to make it fit in the FW3A

hodor
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CRX wrote:

So the MCPCB thing was annoying me so I swapped in a Noctigon, changed the crappy paste and installed 20AWG wires.


1.45mm vs 1.72mm MCPCB thickness.

Does everything still fit ok with the additional MCPCB thickness?

Firelight2
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hodor wrote:
CRX wrote:

So the MCPCB thing was annoying me so I swapped in a Noctigon, changed the crappy paste and installed 20AWG wires.


1.45mm vs 1.72mm MCPCB thickness.

Does everything still fit ok with the additional MCPCB thickness?

Mine fits fine. I swapped the stock board for a Noctigon. Didn’t change the o-rings or anything else other than emitter swap and adding Lee minus green filter below the lens. The bezel still screws down fully. It was not necessary to lap the Noctigon.
hodor
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Awesome, thanks for confirming Thumbs Up

CRX
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Yeah, double confirmed Thumbs Up
There’s only like a 0.3mm difference.

fluke
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xevious wrote:
!{width:99%}https://i.redd.it/e1w6o9s8hpy21.png![/quote]

 

How is the rubber clicky achieved on the bottom right?

xevious
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fluke wrote:

xevious wrote:

 


How is the rubber clicky achieved on the bottom right?


That was swapped in from a Thrunite Archer.
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CRX wrote:
Modded the FW3A Cheatsheet Big Smile

CRX FW3A Cheatsheet

I should incorporate some of these changes into the original. They’re good ideas! Particularly, labelling each arrow so people don’t have to look at the legend to see what they mean. This also helps when printing without color.

Adding product-specific info is a nice touch too, though I’m not sure I want to do that upstream since it’s harder to maintain when each item has a different diagram.

However, I’m not certain all the changes are an improvement:

  • I see “Click & Hold”, “Click – Hold”, and “Click then Hold”. How are these three different?

    When making the diagram, and generally when communicating about UIs, I’ve been careful to use specific terms… “Hold”, “Click, Hold”, and “Click, Click, Hold”. The reason is to eliminate ambiguity.

    It may not be immediately intuitive, because the numbering system starts at zero… but doing it this way ensures there is enough information to figure out the meaning with a bit of thought. Starting it at zero removes any question about whether “Click, Click, Hold” involves pressing the button two times or three times, but starting the counting system at one leaves it unclear. It’s much the same as why “twentieth century” refers to the 1900s.

    So, that was a very deliberate decision.

I also see a few other things which might be inaccurate or confusing:

  • The arrow to strobe modes indicates that it always starts on candle mode… but it doesn’t.
  • The legend says a blue line means 4 clicks, but this is contradicted elsewhere in the diagram.
  • Usage of “Mode” is inconsistent. So, for example, it appears to have “Momentary Mode” and “BattCheck Mode”, but also “Muggle Mode Mode” and “Beacon Mode Mode”. It reminds me of when people say “LCD Display” or “PIN Number”. One day, I even caught someone saying “It’s Just a Bunch Of JBOD Disks”. Smile
  • Why is candle mode red? Is it related to tempcheck or thermal config somehow?
  • Some fonts are almost unreadable due to the small size.
  • Button actions are shown in at least 4 different fonts / sizes.

Anyway, if you’d like a somewhat easier time modifying the diagram, the .svg file is in the firmware repository. It’s typically easier than editing in a pixel-based program.

Edit: Looks like maukka brought up some of this first. I should read the rest of the posts before responding. Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:
It reminds me of when people say “LCD Display” or “PIN Number”. One day, I even caught someone saying “It’s Just a Bunch Of JBOD Disks”. Smile
You forgot “ATM Machine.” Silly

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CRX wrote:
Cool, thanks for the input, I was hoping someone would go over it Thumbs Up
I’m just trying to make the chart more obvious as a few people are having difficulty with the UI functions, I found the original a little hard to grasp at first look.

How’s this now?

That’s definitely clearer! Thumbs Up

Lagittaja
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ToyKeeper wrote:
It reminds me of when people say “LCD Display” or “PIN Number”. One day, I even caught someone saying “It’s Just a Bunch Of JBOD Disks”. Smile

Or “SSD drive” which annoys me quite a lot.

P.S. Don’t shout at your JBOD’s! In case you don’t get the reference.

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Lagittaja wrote:
Don’t shout at your JBOD’s! In case you don’t get the reference .

Having once worked in a data center doing hardware stress testing, I’m suddenly disappointed that I never tried this. Smile

CRX
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Ok, another revision...  Wink

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^ That’s better, CRX. Also I’m glad you removed the instruction text from the bottom. I think that should be separate, as the diagram is meant for quick reference (also the very long image becomes unwieldy to deal with).

fluke
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 its getting clearera and clearera  <img src= " />

CRX
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Yeah, getting clearera the more I sober up Big Smile

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The quest for FW3A ‘Cheat Sheet’ perfection is closing in on….. P.E.R.F.E.C.T.I.O.N.!! Beer

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