What thermal paste to get?

19 posts / 0 new
Last post
Haggai
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 days ago
Joined: 01/06/2011 - 04:05
Posts: 1012
Location: Israel
What thermal paste to get?

So I decided to upgrade my UF C88 with an XM-L LED (still undecided between lck-led U2 @ ~11$ and DD T6 @ ~5$) and a new driver (KD 8x7135 V2).

I guess I need some thermal paste (not glue) for the LED star.

What should I get?

chiefinspectorfinch
chiefinspectorfinch's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 09/27/2010 - 14:33
Posts: 553
Location: Croatia, country with kleptomaniac clero-fascist government

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARCTIC-SILVER-CERAMIQUE-THERMAL-PASTE-COMPOUND-2...

 

They actually sent me newer ceramique2, either way I find ceramique paste the best solution because of it's thickness (high viscosity) and non-metallic composition without sacrifising performanse.

Society is like a pot full of nuts and bolts, finest pieces always end up on the bottom...

 

okwchin
okwchin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 01/07/2011 - 04:41
Posts: 1153
Location: Australia

I use AS5, arctic silver 5. its supposed to be slightly capacitive, but not a concern for torches. Most importantly its one of the better heat conductive pastes according to numerous reviews in the computing world.

I paid $19 for a large syringe (12grams i think it was) but its a tube I know I will never finish in my time with computers and LEDs, and theres always the comfort of knowing that its a mixture that can be trusted. I think my local computer store also sold the 3.5gram tube for $9

 

 

It could be called overkill for torches, but cooling LEDs is the biggest bottleneck in torches, and a few degrees here and there are always welcome. 

You would probably do as well with any other name brand paste, and most unbranded stuff works nearly as well anyway. Even water works fine as a thermal paste, its just about how well it holds up over time, the stability of the compound, which seems to be a problem with many of the cheaper pastes I've found, where the oil suspension is lost and you end up with dry crusty remains.

 

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

Haggai
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 days ago
Joined: 01/06/2011 - 04:05
Posts: 1012
Location: Israel

The Ceramique certainly looks interesting... especially since it's one of the cheapest branded ones around.

Although metal-based pastes transfer heat better (tests I've seen talk about 2-5 degrees C typically, although I've seen reports about over 10 degrees sometimes), I think I prefer completely non-conductive and non-capacitive compounds, just seems a bit safer.

Should I think of applying the paste on the driver as well? Will the 7135s benefit from it?

Lensman
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 11 months ago
Joined: 07/08/2011 - 16:16
Posts: 822
Location: London, UK

I'm sure I should get some thermal paste, but I don't have a clue how/why to use the stuff. Ah, found a thread..

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/1919

Haggai
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 days ago
Joined: 01/06/2011 - 04:05
Posts: 1012
Location: Israel

So... will the thermal paste help if applied on the driver, covering the 7135 units?

JohnnyMac
JohnnyMac's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 6 months ago
Joined: 04/12/2011 - 16:03
Posts: 8863
Location: Eastern PA

Haggai wrote:

So... will the thermal paste help if applied on the driver, covering the 7135 units?

Haggai, I think you are confusing thermal grease with thermal paste/glue. Thermal paste or glue will harden or bond.  It is best used for securing LED stars to heatsinks and for potting drivers which it sounds like you want.

Thermal grease is best used for threads where you want heat conductivity but want to be able to remove something easily down the line.

You should ideally get both types.  I don't recommend using thermal grease on emitter stars. The reason I don't is that when tightening down a reflector or bezel the reflector can press on the star and twist it resulting in your LED connection wires getting guillotined.  I always used a quality thermal paste to avoid having this happen (took me 2 incidences before I learned my lesson) and I prefer to use Fujik because it conducts well for a non-metallic compound and is non-conductive so it is great for potting drivers too.

The benefit for using a paste/glue on drivers (instead of a grease like compound) is that the glue will harden and protect the electrical components from impact induced failure while still conducting heat away from the components. Using a grease like compound will help with heat but do nothing to protect the components.

Hope this helps. Wink

Johnny

willie
willie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 08/16/2011 - 14:19
Posts: 824
Location: Houston

When in doubt, "FUJIK IT"!

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 09:25
Posts: 6092
Location: Johnstown, PA

Do I remember correctly reading somewhere (DX review?) where someone suggested mixing thermal compound and thermal glue 50/50 if you want to be able to remove it later (but not have it easily removed now)?  Anyone comment on this?

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
JonnyC
JonnyC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 01/14/2011 - 19:12
Posts: 1145
Location: Green Bay, WI - USA

willie wrote:

When in doubt, "FUJIK IT"!

 

Haha.  Any other source for Fujik other than DX?  It seems to take longer and longer for them to ship things out.

willie
willie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 08/16/2011 - 14:19
Posts: 824
Location: Houston
DX is my slow source.
Haggai
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 days ago
Joined: 01/06/2011 - 04:05
Posts: 1012
Location: Israel

JonnyC wrote:

willie wrote:

When in doubt, "FUJIK IT"!

 

Haha.  Any other source for Fujik other than DX?  It seems to take longer and longer for them to ship things out.

http://www.bestofferbuy.com/fujik-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml-greaselike-p-7788.html?SSAID=447047&utm_source=shareasale&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=affiliate

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/index.php?target=products&bid=42&sl=EN&aff_id=9128&product_id=36258

Dimlock
Dimlock's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 years 11 months ago
Joined: 12/12/2011 - 22:05
Posts: 53
Location: United States

Haggai wrote:

JonnyC wrote:

willie wrote:

When in doubt, "FUJIK IT"!

 

Haha.  Any other source for Fujik other than DX?  It seems to take longer and longer for them to ship things out.

http://www.bestofferbuy.com/fujik-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml-greaselike-p-7788.html?SSAID=447047&utm_source=shareasale&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=affiliate

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/index.php?target=products&bid=42&sl=EN&aff_id=9128&product_id=36258

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S007356

Whoops, sold out.

http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/w/waltwhitma146847.html" title="view quote" style="border: 0px;

Lothar
Lothar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 10/26/2011 - 11:22
Posts: 534
Location: Stellenbosch, South Africa

So Arctic Silver Ceramique is a paste/glue, and

Arctic Silver 5 is a grease?

Do I understand it correctly?

Current Collection:

BLF: BLF-GT90, BLF-GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini, BLF-LT1; 

BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)

Solarforce: L2P (XM-L2 U3 @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF-GT4; 

E1320
E1320's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/30/2011 - 05:26
Posts: 3369
Location: New Hampshire

Fujik from DX order 2 tubes and you should be set for life.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fujik-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml-grease-lik...

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6297
Location: Holland

This thread got cut off.
@Haggai: what did you buy after all?

I`m leaning towards this

DX has the same, but people are saying that it hardens like crazy, and probably will not be able to come off without damage.

I dont know if all of my lights have it, but the lights that I opened up, I could take off the star pretty easily… it had some white stuff underneath.
Im just afraid of using this thermal glue, and not being able to take it off anymore.
that arctic silver is $8.50 shipped, which is like 6 times the one I just posted.

Please share your experiences!

TadpolePilot
TadpolePilot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 9 months ago
Joined: 01/28/2012 - 07:00
Posts: 252
Location: The Republic of Texas
:~ Noalox anti-oxidant by Ideal joint compound their Cat. No. 30-030 any good to use on our Led conections and for heat thermal? fucked

"Yell  {"Old, Broken Butt,  Zeide"}&nbs

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6297
Location: Holland
TadpolePilot wrote:
:~ Noalox anti-oxidant by Ideal joint compound their Cat. No. 30-030 any good to use on our Led conections and for heat thermal?

? where did you get that from ?

Lumatic
Lumatic's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 years 5 months ago
Joined: 08/23/2012 - 21:44
Posts: 997
Location: Carlsbad, CA

“When I buy something in bulk you should prolly buy at least one too.”…..“They that have light shall rule the night.”…..“Flashaholics feel depressed without darkness.”…….“I’m a very terminal torchaholic. My entire life just flashed before my eyes