Surveillance Camera recommendations wanted

I want to get a surveillance camera, hopefully for less than $75.

I was looking on Amazon (as usual) and found one that might be good:

https://www.amazon.com/Wansview-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-Monitor/dp/B075K89NTR

In the description, it says:

"Support Windows and Mac 24/7 video recording, if camera be stolen, you can check your local computer to see what happened."

This is a feature that is crucial to me!

Basically I want a surveillance camera that uses WiFi to save the video to a Windows 10 computer's hard drive.

Unfortunately, it turns out that the cameras they're sending out now don't have this feature.

Does anyone know of a good surveillance camera with this feature?

(I couldn't find one on Amazon with at least 4.0/5.0 stars and 300 reviews.)

Thanks!

Look into Blue Iris software. It is a home security software that runs on Windows and can interface to many different cameras. It is the recognized best system. Wifi cameras can suffer the same problems as any wireless device, connectivity to the router. It is not as bad as your phone since the camera position is fixed. You have to make sure your wireless signal is sufficient at the camera’s location. If you can string Ethernet cable that is by far less problematic. You can also consider Powerline Ethernet adapters to transmit the ethernet through the electrical wiring in your house if stringing cable is not possible. If you want cameras with night vision outside protected from the elements (that is, inside a plastic enclosure) make sure the IR transmitter is outside the dome (as seems to be the case with the camera you linked). O/W the IR is reflected from the inside of the dome and night vision is useless. Also, an inside camera looking out through a window is subject to the same IR night vision limitation.You would be surprised what useless features are offered for sale. PTZ (Pan Tilt Zoom) can be useful to change position with out having to physically get to the camera, but using it for following a moving subject is not possible with the cuurent cheaper camera. It is far cheaper and better to cover the area with multiple cheaper fixed-position cameras. In general, you don’t need anything more than 1080P, it just s requires more bandwidth and computer processing power and is overkill for home security uses.

Here are some cameras that I found on Amazon and saved for future consideration (depending on Blue Iris integration) when I change houses:

Wyze Cameras

Wyze cameras are excellent. Also Amcrest is really good. They are what Foscam used to be when they moved their office to the US

The garage in my building is a big target for thieves. Having spoken with Police, they advised that most security footage is not good enough to identify a criminal. Given that most surveillance cameras are wide angle and 1080p, there is not enough resolution to identify a face, rending the footage somewhat useless. I think thats why banks have so many cameras setup, because they are not wide angle.

It would be worth getting a 4K camera for that reason alone depending on your end use. That will most likely break the budget though.

Just because it advertises 4K doesn’t mean it’s going to be any more clear of a picture. Don’t be fooled by that. It’s like a 16 megapixel camera that cant take a low light picture. If the sensor isn’t up to par or there isn’t enough lightning (in surveillance you need good IR for night time) then you can forget getting any quality image regardless of resolution.

With that said I have a Hikvision camera I re-purposed as a baby monitor and it has excellent picture quality. This brand is what you will commonly see repackaged under a different name in commercial settings. It will require something like the poster above suggested (Blue Iris on a computer) or a dedicated NVR and because it has so many settings and typical commercial use you wont find it to be very user friendly.

Yes, totally agree. The sensor, as well as lens quality, would apply to all cameras regardless of resolution, but one can probably assume that a fixed sized sensor that is boosted to resolve 4K will have no added benefit in a low light situation. If you are filming in a well lit situation, the 4K resolution in an equally sized sensor will still be better than 1080p to identify faces.

In my experience (have installed several system at work and a few systems in homes), Wi-Fi is usually not the best for camera feeds. There are a couple of reasons here (already limited Wi-Fi bandwidth being further utilized by camera streams, easy to “jam”, power delivery to the camera, etc).

I think I’ve seen in other posts that you have satellite internet, so I’m going to assume your network hasn’t needed to be robust to get internet to your devices at the limit of your bandwidth. Introducing Wi-Fi cameras into a network using just the wireless equipment supplied by the ISP is probably going to give you trouble. One camera may not be too big of a deal though, and it is usually easier to get started when you don’t have to run a cable. I’m also assuming that you aren’t looking for cloud based storage because you said the thing about using your computer and because you may have less bandwidth to work with.

If you can, it is better to run a cable than to rely on Wi-Fi. My preference is for IP cameras as you can use the cable (typically CAT5e) with other IP camera systems if you switch/replace a camera, the cables are easier to run and repair, and many IP cameras can be used with a computer and a decent software like Blue Iris (costs like $30 for one camera or $60 for more than that) or Milestone Professional software with a free tier for up to 8 cameras… I would probably go this route).

Most systems/kits you can get come with an NVR or DVR (NVRs use standard ethernet cabling and DVRs use coax typically) that will hold the recorded data. This is an economical way to get a decent system without tying up your Wi-Fi, and many have an easy way to set up remote access from a computer or cell phone for while you are away. If you want a setup where your computer is the NVR, make sure the computer has plenty of storage (depends on how many cameras), but for a 4 camera system you could probably work with about 2TB for most uses.

Hikvision cameras are recommended a lot, but I have no direct experience with them. None of my suppliers can get me what I’d consider a “budget” price for these, so for home use they may be overkill. I understand Amazon is not an authorized supplier of Hikvision, so anything purchased from them is “grey market” (warranty issues may be harder to resolve) but probably still quality.

You can get some reasonably decent Reolink systems on Amazon for a bargain price (happy to make recommendations). Most of the consumer level stuff is rebranded Chinese stuff anyway (lorex, swann, etc). The weak link for all of these is the software imho. It is all terrible, but it will work once it is set up… you just don’t get a good interface to use it, and you might have to make some educated guesses about what the chinenglish language manual has to say. If Amazon doesn’t work for you, I’d check out one of the warehouse stores (Costco, Sam’s Club) or a home improvement store (Home Depot, Lowe’s). Shop around, you can find decent deals. Just remember that the better quality your video feed (higher MP, higher framerate, etc) the more storage you’ll need.

If you really need Wi-Fi, I think there aren’t many solutions that I’d be able to recommend. I use a Blink XT on my front door to deter porch pirates (runs on 2 AA lithium primaries for “up to 2 years” and only records on motion events during its scheduled “on” period… cloud storage is free if you don’t need more than 7 days of recordings). I have installed Ring outdoor cameras with solar panels a few times. These are nice, but I think the storage has a monthly cost associated with it. The best bit about either of these options is that there are no cables to run. I’d prefer a wired camera if I was planning on living here longer.

I may have missed the point completely on the part about using your computer, so set me straight if I did and I will dig a little deeper.

TL;DR: Wireless is not awesome for cameras, most consumer cameras aren’t great but can be workable on a budget (Reolink, Q-SEE, Lorex, Swann in that order), get an NVR not a DVR and run cable if you can.

Okay, I will get Blue Iris software and a surveillance camera that works with BI.

Looks like a good forum for this subject is IP Cam Talk (ipcamtalk.com)

I probably won't get that Wansview camera that I linked to because there are better cameras out there.

Time to do some research...

EDIT:

Forgot to say:

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I was about to create a thread on IP Cam Talk for advice, but after surfing their forum for a while, I've realized that they generally have a bad attitude towards lower budget surveillance cameras.

(It reminds me of the general bad attitude at CPF, but let's not get into that here.)

I've done some Google searches and haven't found anything yet.

Looks like I'll go by Amazon reviews.

Hikvision Cube is ~100, if you need wifi and it will be indoors

I’ve got 9 of the various Amcrest cameras up. Many of the early ones are just refurbs or used ones off ebay. They have a good app and the point tilt zoom PTZ is worth it. The cloud app does offer 1 camera 4-6hrs of free cloud recording, but it’s only 6/month for 7 days of backup. They do have mSD, but I really like cloud recording because it’s off site. Plus I can access all this from my phone or a computer.

I have a security network separated from my home network. The home network is the one connected to the internet via a cable modem. The security network is connected to a laptop via Ethernet which runs the Blue Iris software. In order to see the cameras from my phone (via a Blue Iris Android app) and the internet, the security laptop is connected via wireless to my home network so there is a little bit of vulnerability there. Having the security system on its own routers keeps from using any wireless bandwidth to the internet. I’ve had cameras connected with wireless, Ethernet cables and Ethernet through power line Ethernet adapters but all of my routers have open source firmware (dd-wrt, Tomato, etc.) where you can up the wireless transmit power to overcome connection problems. The bottleneck right now is the laptop which is old and having problems keeping up with version 4 of Blue Iris which requires a lot more computing power than version 3 which I have considered moving back to since it provided everything I needed. Version 3 is not being updated and supported so getting new cameras to work might be problematic.

Not many inexpensive surveillance cameras work with Blue Iris.

Right now I'm leaning toward the Amcrest IPM-721B, but I will probably do more research.

https://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-Surveillance-Wireless-Security-Detection/dp/B01FEDC0M8

Unfortunately Wyze cameras don't work with Blue Iris.

Otherwise, that would be my budget pick.

After doing more research, I don't like the Amcrest I linked above.

I like the Amcrest IP2M-841 a lot more:

https://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-1920TVL-Security-Wireless-IP2M-841B/dp/B0145OQTPG

The majority or my cameras are the last one you linked. I do have an older foscam that was 720p like the first one you linked. These cameras are not waterproof but I have 2 under a roofed porch and they have survived years of getting wet. When temps drop below –20f or so they reset and reboot constantly. Neither is of issue for you I would think. They also can run at reduced resolution and if you have slower internet they are more responsive at this setting when using the ptz functions.
If you do get this be sure to register it with the Amcrest cloud and use the free cloud recording. These also can display on a tv if you have a fire tv device. I say Alexa show me the porch and it turns on my tv and shows live view of that camera.

What do you like better about that one? It sounds like you want exactly the same thing I do, so I’m following along closely, thanks for starting and keeping up with this thread. (and for all who have given input, it’s been very informative)

Edit: looks like 720p VS 1080p?

According to reviewmeta.com and fakespot.com, the one that's 1080p has much higher quality feedback.

In other words, the one that's 720p has a lot more fake reviews on Amazon.

I received this surveillance camera today.

I tried to hook it up to my WiFi with the smart phone app.

No go.

I tried to hook it up via Ethernet with the smart phone app.

No dice.

The third time has to be the charm, right?

I tried to hook it up via Ethernet with the computer application...

Success!

I'm guessing the smart phone app just doesn't work because I am computer literate and I know how to follow directions (most of the time.)

I'll try to install Blue Iris later.

I hope I don't have a ton of trouble with that program!

EDIT:

Considering how many people swear by Blue Iris, I believe I won't have problems.

I installed Amcrest Surveillance Pro, a free program.

With it I could record to my hard drive, so I don't actually have to use Blue Iris.

But since I have BI, and that's what most people use, I'll install BI later.