Budget manual flipper knives that "quick open"

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Eleziel
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raccoon city wrote:

Well if a knife doesn’t have a flipper, I wouldn’t call it a flipper.


But that’s just me.


 


EDIT:


I did some research, and it’s not just me.


That’s the definition of a flipper knife.


Some people in this thread don’t know what a flipper knife is as they have recommended knives without flippers.


They’re probably not doing it on purpose, but from now on, this thread is about knives with flippers only please.  alt=)" />

That’s what i said…

a thumb stud/spydiehole can be flicked, it’s something else.

Eleziel
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raccoon city wrote:

This illustrates what a flipper is:


folder_anatomy


A spydie-type hole is not a flipper.


A thumbstud is not a flipper.


I don’t know about bearings and bushings.

Washers are just.. well, washers. bearings (idealy ceramic) are little balls in a copper cage which both roll for less resistance and have significantly less area of contact which reduces the friction a lot.

Eleziel
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nylon washers ( bad) and bronze washers (good, but stiffer than bearings)

caged ball bearings

caged ball bearings and special washers for titanium handles (titanium is pretty soft so the bearings would wear away the titanium otherwise)

and needle bearings, not many knives use these but they’re amazing

teacher
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As far as washers, I like the Phosphors Bronze washers Chris Reeve uses. They have relief holes or slots for less friction & also retain grease.
.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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raccoon city
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I received a Ruike P801 today.

ruike_p801

It doesn't quick open all the way every time.

I think I'm done buying flipper knives that supposedly quick open.

I'm batting 0.000

In other words, I'm striking out every time.

I still have a Gocomma coming in the mail.

After that, I'm through.

Lightbringer
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raccoon city wrote:
I still have a Gocomma coming in the mail.

First one? You’ll like it. Ohhh, trust me, you’ll like it.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

raccoon city
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Lightbringer wrote:
raccoon city wrote:

I still have a Gocomma coming in the mail.

First one? You'll like it. Ohhh, trust me, you'll like it.

It'll be my third different Gocomma, and I hope I will like it.

slimkango
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I’ve bought a lot of knives off of AliExpress, quite a few have not flipped well until I’ve cleaned them. I take them apart an clean the bearings with brake cleaner then assemble with a little sewing machine oil or Finish Line fluorinated grease, and boy do they flip a lot smoother and faster! HFT purple threadlocker works great on the screws and pivot too! The best flipper out of the box I received was a two sun knife from Ali, but it was a little more expensive at $45.

Blackbeard
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RC if you can get the grease out of the pivot and replace with oil it will work much better. I wasn’t able to open the torx screws in the handle do to strong loctite that wrecked my bits, so if you go that route you may need to heat them first, but I was able to get the grease out with some cleaning with regular printer paper on either side of blade, and tissues.

Also not sure if you are trying to push the flipper towards pivot or using light switch motion, not saying both wont work but second one is better for this model, and if your fingers are on frame lock it can slow the opening as well.

raccoon city
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Guys, I appreciate the advice, but I don't take my knives apart.

If the knife doesn't perform as I expect it to, I eventually try to sell it.

That is my only recourse.

BabyDoc
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This is my first Ganzo. It won’t be my last. I’m very impressed with the quality. The Firebird FH21 is a very smooth flipper. It is as quick or quicker than my spring assisted Kershaw Blur. It is razor sharp and beautifully finished. It is quite a bargain for $24.99.

https://imgur.com/a/mgl4bFR
https://imgur.com/a/HjWOi63

teacher
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BabyDoc wrote:
This is my first Ganzo. It won’t be my last. I’m very impressed with the quality. The Firebird FH21 is a very smooth flipper. It is as quick or quicker than my spring assisted Kershaw Blur. It is razor sharp and beautifully finished. It is quite a bargain for $24.99.

https://imgur.com/a/mgl4bFR
https://imgur.com/a/HjWOi63

Nice choice!! Beer . I am loving that one too.

IMO…. Ganzo/Firebird has stepped their game up as they became Firebird.

The FH Series is a leap in the right direction compared to older Ganzo’s.
And the new FB7651 is too… IMO of course.

I have the FH21, FH41, & FB7651…. and I am pleased with & recommend either or all if those three. Wink

ymmv

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Nev
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I think it’s a flipper
Hold a fish up & it will quick open.

Blackbeard
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raccoon city wrote:

Guys, I appreciate the advice, but I don’t take my knives apart.


If the knife doesn’t perform as I expect it to, I eventually try to sell it.


That is my only recourse.

I never got mine apart, just removed the grease they like to pack in there, works much better with oil.

Dougiestyle
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@raccoon city I’d take that Ruike P801 off your hands for $20-shipped. PM if interested.

raccoon city
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Dougiestyle wrote:

@raccoon city I'd take that Ruike P801 off your hands for $20-shipped. PM if interested.

I could PM you when I eventually create a thread, though I won't be giving my knives away.

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Figured I’d give it a shot. It’s listed on amazon for $29.19. Was trying to offer something to compensate your learning curve in the knife. At this point, you spent the money. I just offered to give some back lol. Prime will have me one here by Saturday and includes warranty.

Eleziel
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The Ruike is arguably the best flipper available sub 50$ maybe it’s your technique? try “push buttoning” it instead of “light switching” or the other way around.

That said, most of the budget Chinese knives seem to get assembled in the same place they do the milling/grinding which makes them a little gritty sometime, not use the best lube (though IMO Ruike uses the best stock lube)

You’re kinda doing yourself a disservice by not disassembling, cleaning, lubing and tuning the knives. for 99% of the ones i receive the first thing i do is disassemble and even some of the worst stock action tends to get smooth and reliable (the only ones i haven’t disassembled are any of my Sanrenmu 710’s – a SRM 910 g10 version, the steel version needed a clean – Ruike p121, which after a year still feels like a Sebenza – and a Real Steel Griffin Titan, but that’s an entirely different price point (made by the same people as Sanrenmu)

My most recent one was a 940 clone (was really cheap, testing the ergonomics – not for big hands) came super stiff, took it apart, polished the washers on my strop (they were punched and had a slight burr) lubed with thick fishing reel lube and now the action is nearly indistinguishable from a real BM, took maybe 10 minutes.

Also took the left (looking from the spine) omega spring out which made it a lot more fidgety.

BrightKen
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Saw this Ruike 801P on YouTube and did some research. I didn’t know that it is a Canadian Company near Vancouver. Just a quick ferry ride to Bowen Island. Maybe I can make a day trip and spend sometime on the island.
The local brick & mortar/online store sells the black stonewash for $34.30 usd and the stone wash for $29.20 usd.

ttylamg
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Raccoon, I think you are going about this all wrong. I got into knifes more in depth recently too, but had a Tac force for ages (look on amazon). After getting into it more recently I’ve learned that you actually need to have some dexterity developed to open knifes the way they are designed to be opened. Yes there is such a thing, not even talking about flicking your wrist. I only know so because my cheap knife to >$100 knife all can open fast and quick in my hands using different styles. I’ve only learned this possibility recently, and further started to “adjust” knifes and also lubing them. It is a lot of fun. And I don’t know if I would ever discover any of this if I expected every cheap knife to magically open fast and not even knowing the nuances of opening style.

It’s hard to describe the dexterity bits with your fingers unless you watch tons of video or have someone just show you in person. Even a flipper can be used wrong surprisingly. Many pull the flipper, but you can also press “IN” the flipper, and depending on the knife it makes a difference.

Most cheap knifes can perform well, especially in trained hands and or with some “tuning”. But expensive knifes will probably open fast by someone that don’t even know what they are doing.

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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raccoon city
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I suppose I've been spoiled by assisted-openers that open the way I want them to every time.  :THUMBS-UP:

Cosmodragoon
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ttylamg wrote:
… I’ve learned that you actually need to have some dexterity developed to open knifes the way they are designed to be opened. Yes there is such a thing, not even talking about flicking your wrist. I only know so because my cheap knife to >$100 knife all can open fast and quick in my hands using different styles. I’ve only learned this possibility recently, and further started to “adjust” knifes and also lubing them. It is a lot of fun. And I don’t know if I would ever discover any of this if I expected every cheap knife to magically open fast and not even knowing the nuances of opening style.

It’s hard to describe the dexterity bits with your fingers unless you watch tons of video or have someone just show you in person. Even a flipper can be used wrong surprisingly. Many pull the flipper, but you can also press “IN” the flipper, and depending on the knife it makes a difference.

Most cheap knifes can perform well, especially in trained hands and or with some “tuning”. But expensive knifes will probably open fast by someone that don’t even know what they are doing.

Non-assisted flippers tend to have their own character. It’s a matter of geometry, detent, and action. Some knives work better with the “light switch” method of flicking the tab downward. Some work better with “push button”, where you press your finger into the tab to build tension and then break it with a slight downward shift. Some knives work well with both but all tend to have their own particular feel. This isn’t a feature of price or quality in my experience. What you should get from a higher end knife (in addition to nicer materials, better steel, workmanship, QC, etc.) is a better flipping experience overall.

That said, you should never need wrist action for a flipper knife. You should be able to “flip” or “snap” the knife open with the movement of one finger alone. If you can’t, and you’ve tried different techniques, then the knife either needs work or was poor quality in the first place.

So now that you’ve gotten into it a little, what knife has given you the best flipping experience? Which one makes you smile every time you snap it open?

ttylamg
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I don’t have a favorite honestly, I don’t have that many knifes, laser, flashlights etc to have a favorite. They are just all different (part of the reason and how I buy them). Yes I have a hoarding problem. I do like the sharpness of my s35vn, which doesn’t flick at all. I like everything else that flicks too for the fact that they flick or carry and look nice. I do wish if any lesser steel be as sharp as s35vn, then I might have a favorite

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

Cosmodragoon
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ttylamg wrote:
I don’t have a favorite honestly, I don’t have that many knifes, laser, flashlights etc to have a favorite. They are just all different (part of the reason and how I buy them). Yes I have a hoarding problem. I do like the sharpness of my s35vn, which doesn’t flick at all. I like everything else that flicks too for the fact that they flick or carry and look nice. I do wish if any lesser steel be as sharp as s35vn, then I might have a favorite

S35VN is a super steel. It’s also more expensive. Lesser steels can still perform well depending on the design, blade geometry, heat treatment, etc. I’ve been happy with decent budget knives in VG-10, 14C28N, and lately 9Cr18Mov. The latter taught me just how different the same steel can be.

I had tried 9Cr18Mov in a couple of cheap knives and had not been impressed. I know it’s more stainless but in terms of performance, I didn’t notice much difference from 8Cr13Mov. Then I tried out the Baklash and Naja from Civivi. The difference is night and day. Both of those knives are wonderfully slicey and they hold a decent edge. They also have excellent action and are under $50.

Now is a good time to be into knives. Smile

ttylamg
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oto wrote:
Spreadsheet of knife testing results to date: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OepNr_D4lqbdTFqdqWl1rmAd4bOzPzJe6J0iEWrdJGU/edit#gid=0

who owns this spreadsheet? can we request some tests or even send something in (or ask the manufacturer) to get tested?

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

ttylamg
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Cosmodragoon wrote:

S35VN is a super steel. It’s also more expensive. Lesser steels can still perform well depending on the design, blade geometry, heat treatment, etc. I’ve been happy with decent budget knives in VG-10, 14C28N, and lately 9Cr18Mov. The latter taught me just how different the same steel can be.

I had tried 9Cr18Mov in a couple of cheap knives and had not been impressed. I know it’s more stainless but in terms of performance, I didn’t notice much difference from 8Cr13Mov. Then I tried out the Baklash and Naja from Civivi. The difference is night and day. Both of those knives are wonderfully slicey and they hold a decent edge. They also have excellent action and are under $50.

Now is a good time to be into knives. Smile

yes, the thing with steel types is that it can only mean so much. Even if the vendor meant well (not trying to scam consumers) every steel process isn’t equal, nor is the manufacturing process of the final product (sharpening the same quality steel can still yield 2 different result). s35vn isn’t

Quote:
super
exotic, its nice, but its just not that common and thus comparatively more expensive because of it. Its also harder to sharpen compared to more common steel.

Civivi is a new brand to me, but they seem to cost nearly as much as their primary brand, which seems silly to me. Of course, I realize there IS a price tier difference, just not how it tiers for me right now. I am looking for a cheap knife, that has nice action, stays sharp, and looks nice. Yes, its a good time for many EDC things, e-commerce made these things possible, this is the golden years, so far anyways. We all need to practice some self restraint Smile

C8+ (osram mod) - FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

Cosmodragoon
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ttylamg wrote:
… Civivi is a new brand to me, but they seem to cost nearly as much as their primary brand, which seems silly to me. Of course, I realize there IS a price tier difference, just not how it tiers for me right now. I am looking for a cheap knife, that has nice action, stays sharp, and looks nice…

Civivi has a bunch of different knives but at least in the United States, I think they are all under a hundred bucks. Civivi is the budget line for WE. WE knives are usually over $100 and can easily cost more than twice that. I did an advanced search over at Blade HQ to pull up all the Civivi knives that cost around $50 or less. There might be a few they don’t have but here are a bunch.

https://www.bladehq.com/cat—CIVIVI-Folding—3294#/filter:price:1:55

The Naja has become my most carried knife since I got it in March. I paid $42.50 for it. I’ve lightly stropped it a few times but it still has the factory edge. It still slices like a dream.

Macka17
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Hi.
If that 9cr18 steel is as good as some say.
It’ll be a nice step up on the 8cr13/14. AUS8. Maybe even the 440C. (my fav for working blades)
Depending on the heat treatment.

Don’t like that blade shape though. Might save up for the Sheeps Foot blade.
I allow myself $10 per week for toys ($520 per yr).
Missus says all in one, or weekly?. I went weekly. Helps give more anticipation.
The saving for different items. Try it sometime.

BrightKen
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ttylamg wrote:
oto wrote:
Spreadsheet of knife testing results to date: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OepNr_D4lqbdTFqdqWl1rmAd4bOzPzJe6J0iEWrdJGU/edit#gid=0
who owns this spreadsheet? can we request some tests or even send something in (or ask the manufacturer) to get tested?

It is an independent test by Luv Them Knives on YouTube. He will test the Rockwell hardened and the type of metal used. It is continuing updated as new knives are tested for all subscribers to his channel.
He will conduct a test for you send your knife for him to test but they are backlogged.

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Just got me a Ganzo/Firebird F11S (smaller version) with carbon fiber scales.

Very good, smooth, effortless easy flipper Thumbs Up

(But as always, YMMV)

Flashlights, blades & beer
Let’s stay relatively optimist!

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