I am looking at buying a pocket thrower. I have it narrowed down to two different 18650 lights.
1. The BLF GT Mini NW
2. The Emisar D1S XP-L HI V2 3A
I think the quality would win out with the Emisar, It looks a little funny with the huge head, compared to the body, but that is okay with me. The Lumitop Mini GT looks better, but I think the quality might be behind the Emisar. Just guessing on that though. Also, I think the Emisar D1S can take flat tops but the Lumintop Mini needs button tops. Is this correct?
If you were to have the chance to get one of these two lights for free, which one would you choose?
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I’d choose the GT Mini.
Only because it has NarsilM though, which includes many mode options and customizations.
The D1S can only take flat tops, while the GT Mini can take both flat tops and button tops.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I have both and I like the GT mini better just because it has a cleaner look to it. The emisar is a little rough around the edges.
GT mini modded by vinh
300kcd for throw…130 stock
anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?
GT Mini is great – get a Flat White (and gasket) on a 20mm mcpcb from intl-outdoor, mtnelectronics, swap that out, and watch the candela go through the roof.
If you’ve got the gear and are also feeling tricky, reflash with Anduril
Hi, where can I find details on how to do that?
The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.
This was a guide I found:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1470660#comment-1470660
You need three parts – a USBASP device, some cables, and a SOIC clip:
https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/bwhtp8/parts_needed_to_flas...
I got mine off AliExpress all from ALL ELECTRONICS MALL – image of the parts I got here.
I haven’t done it myself yet (clip is still a few days away), but it shouldn’t be too hard – TK has the pre-built hex file for it.
I owned both, but recently sold my GT Mini.
I much prefer the switch of the D1S. It’s larger and feels nicer.
The D1S has a (slightly) tighter hotspot, too.
I can’t comment on the firmware differences. I put Andúril on both of them as soon as they arrived.
Actually I mean on how to change the LED to get more throw. But thanks anyway for the big effort and time!
The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.
Oh! Well if you get the White Flat on 20mm (here’s an example), then you just open the top of the light, drop out the reflector, desolder the old one (positive and negative wires), and solder the new one in. You’ll need thermal paste too for between the MCPCB and the light itself.
I don’t have any pictures of all opened up right now, but can probably take some in about 5 hours or so. I still need to order my white flat though
EDIT:: Although the led4power link doesn’t look like it has gaskets. intl-outdoor and mtnelectronics do though. Because it’s a 3030 emitter, getting a gasket is a bit harder…
Thanks, it should be very straight forward. I just didn’t find gaskets at into-outdoor website.
The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.
It’s a little tickbox on there
Thank you!
The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.
I have a flat white in my clear ano convoy c8 and throw is amazing. So if you want to go cheap, thats also a possibility.
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
I already have a GT mini, so it’s easier.
The darkness is afraid of us.
Flashlights are cheaper than therapy.
Yeah but you cant run the flat white on to high amps. I think 4.5 amp max so you would have to swap driver.
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
GT Mini FET caps out at 4.5A from memory…
Edit:: I may be wrong… reading into it again.
Edit 2:
Ow oke. So it is limited by the current that can travel through the springs?
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
Sounds like it – the tailcap is double spring where the driver side is a single (albeit shallow) spring. By bypassing it or doing a double-spring mod you should get more light, but it’ll just heat up faster, and not be super noticeable anyway.
Looking at TA’s XPL HI review, it seems that going from 4.5A to 5.5A is only ~ 160 extra lumens, or ~11% more (that’s on a CW emitter) – only slightly noticeable. But going from 4.5 to 5.5A on a flat white, it looks like you actually lose about 40 lumens , or around 4.5%.
Either way, if I can hit 4.5A consistent with a flat white, I’m happy
and with Anduril, I’ll be far happier than with any of the UIs I’ve found on Convoys so far.
Yeah anduril is way nicer. I put a single mode driver in it with 9×7135 and both springs bypassed. With full battery it gets hot after 5 min.
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
GT Mini wiring and driver can DEFINITELY supply more than 4.5A.
Without a clamp meter you’re not getting the full reading of the current and some emitters like XPL HI will pull less current than others anyway.
Interesting – will have to look into it. Might even be a way to modify Anduril to PWM it down. Will research further before putting the emitter in.
I want to buy the flat white and a GT Mini, but I am guessing a driver switch would be needed also for this mod because it is going to push more than 4-4.5 Amps. Is this correct?
If I did get the new C8 the tan version, what is that driver pushing in amps? Can I just buy a flat white and install it like I would the GT mini, just do an emitter swap for the flat white, and if so is it going to use the 20mm also?
This is my first mod on a factory light without building it from the ground up and only did that a couple times.
The mcpcb of the tan c8+ is 20mm. the c8(the previous model) has almost the same specs. Like same driver and mcpcb size, but the difference is that the reflector opening of the c8+ is 7mm and the c8 9mm. Int outdoor only sells the 7mm gasket. If you get a c8+ you can just swap emiters. It will be around 3.5 amp, but it is plenty bright and already gets hot pretty fast with a full 18650. You can also buy a led4power driver which can be set to 4.5 amp.
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz
Yeah my desert tan C8+ white flat combo is amazing. Tail clicky always ready to fire from the pocket!
Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.
You can ask Simon to send a SMO reflector with 7mm bottom hole from his AliExpress store.
Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.
I don’t understand the purpose of a ramping UI in a thrower. Or any mode other than high. It’s a purpose built flashlight for throwing light a long distance. It does that really well and doesn’t do that well up close due to the narrow beam.
I use LD-A4 drivers in my throwers. High mode descending to moonlight, so two modes only, no mode memory.
Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.
I like throw too but i dont carry two lights so a lower mode for up close is better than no light at all or a too bright hotspot that screws up your nightvision
"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz