Noctigon KR4, 5A constant current+DD is for sale.

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Kingjohn
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Kingjohn wrote:
Will the added lanyard hole be less sharp-edged than the one on the D4S? This is the only thing I don’t like on that light….

Yes.

perfect! & Thanks for the nice picture Smile

gregor
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Hello

Please help me choose led and tint?

So many options that I can’t decide what to choose. Big Smile

What did you choose and why?

—————————

Will there be green color of this FL, the same color as original D4?

Thank you

Kind regards

Klayking
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I’m a tint snob now, so I went for XP-L HI. 5D 4000K to be specific. Beautiful rosy beam with no tint shifting and no green in it. 70 CRI is plenty for my tastes. 3A 5000K is also a great option for a very pure white beam.

If you prefer high CRI, get the SST-20 4000K (or 3000K if you want a warm, candle-like light). Beware that the 4000K is notorious for being a quite green at low to medium output levels, if that sort of stuff bothers you at all. I haven’t had much luck with 219Cs from Emisar either, with all of them being somewhat green too, but YMMV.

If you want maximum power and throw for cheaper than XP-L HI, get the SST-20 5000K, or 6500K if you want a bluer tint rather than a whiter one. As with most SST-20s, these might look a little green at low and medium output levels, but they’re cheaper than XP-L HI so it’s a perfectly acceptable tradeoff. Keep in mind that these are low CRI however.

I think the general consensus these days is SST-20 4000K for high CRI, and SST-20 5000K for maximum performance.

gregor
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Thank you for your kind answer. Big Smile

Klayking
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You’re welcome. My favourite part about the flashlight community is how helpful everybody is. I try to give back what I can. Smile

Scallywag
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Omega_17 wrote:
northbeard wrote:
A question on the battery type though: Is a Samsung 30Q enough for this light, or would one of the Sony VTC6 be better?
Same cells, with same chemistry and ratings. The Sony is slightly longer. But you can get better capacity cells for slightly longer run-time. 3600mAh instead of 3000mAh but you also have to look at the Continuous Discharge Rating (higher amps mean higher output but less run-time if you use turbo or unregulated output)

VTC6 tends to do a bit better in peak output IIRC, but they're definitely not "the same cell" - they're made by different manufacturers. You may as well lump in the LG high-current cell that's 3000mAh, the HG2 if I'm not mistaken. There's also lower-capacity cells that can do higher peak outputs. But I wouldn't recommend any higher capacity 3500mAh cells for this light, or any other low-discharge cells. They will not hold up well to higher current draw of this light. Actually, I'd consider it mildly irresponsible to recommend such batteries for a D4.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

rayman007
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Is there a BLF discount code?

nick779
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Klayking wrote:
I’m a tint snob now, so I went for XP-L HI. 5D 4000K to be specific. Beautiful rosy beam with no tint shifting and no green in it. 70 CRI is plenty for my tastes. 3A 5000K is also a great option for a very pure white beam.

If you prefer high CRI, get the SST-20 4000K (or 3000K if you want a warm, candle-like light). Beware that the 4000K is notorious for being a quite green at low to medium output levels, if that sort of stuff bothers you at all. I haven’t had much luck with 219Cs from Emisar either, with all of them being somewhat green too, but YMMV.

If you want maximum power and throw for cheaper than XP-L HI, get the SST-20 5000K, or 6500K if you want a bluer tint rather than a whiter one. As with most SST-20s, these might look a little green at low and medium output levels, but they’re cheaper than XP-L HI so it’s a perfectly acceptable tradeoff. Keep in mind that these are low CRI however.

I think the general consensus these days is SST-20 4000K for high CRI, and SST-20 5000K for maximum performance.

I dont know if I got lucky, or Hank got some nice binned SST20s but my 4k D4 is almost perfectly neutral. Ill know more once my 3k V1 comes in. I cant deny the tint of 4k XP-L HIs though as I have 3 D4S with them and my 7a FW3A.

Sadly though I kinda like the idea of my nightstand “candle” having amber or red aux lights so the diffuser would slightly glow.

I also need to wait and see what the candle mode looks like on the V2 because im not incredibly fond of the 6/2 build’s behavior.

lumos_maxima
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My 2 cents: i first bought a D4S sst20 6500k and it did have a noticeable green tint on lower output. Being in love I ordered another D4S Nichia 219C and a D4 sst20 4000K both with uncoated lenses and there’s zero green in the tint. Also I swapped the uncoated lens from my 2nd D4S with the first one (sst20 6500K) and the green is hardly noticeable anymore.

So for absolute power get the sst20 5000/6500K and for cosy warmer light get the Nichia or sst20 3000/4000K. Personally I really adore the sst20 4000K, it was my first none cool white led and it made me go WAAAW out loud:) beautiful colour rendering and easier on the eyes on full power. The Nichia is quite cosy as well, somewhat rosy on lower output. The power difference is really noticeable between the warm and cool white.

BurningPlayd0h
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blueb8llz wrote:
Does the sst20 throw more than xpl hi? Surprised the xpl hi only 100 lumens more.

Yes, all SST-20 have higher candela per lumen than XPL-HI.

Only the 70 CRI versions of it (5000 and 6500K) have 4000+ lm output, the 90CRI 3000 and 4000K hit ~3000.

AlexGT
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Would love to see a beam shot comparison between all leds and tint options in the same picture against a white wall at about 10 meters and label which tint is each one, that would solve a lot of questions regarding tint and leds.

Thanks!

saypat
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guessing these will be available thru Mountain in time?

grateful for TK’s review.

If I recall correctly doesn’t latest Anduril have momentary strobes, etc? This will be very FUN light to play with!

Dougiestyle
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The video tutorial for all the modes, tweaks and adjustments in this light’s UI would be a Godsend. It would probably be a 45min, 2-part pay-per-view lol. Totally worth it, too!

-Pretty much a muggle with an I Q, uncommon sense and tools. Techno-tarded, mostly, though.

Chatika vas Paus
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We have Anduril and of course candle mode now.
A diffuser should be made for this. Best would be short as lumintop, not as long as a convoy.

ToyKeeper
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nick779 wrote:
I also need to wait and see what the candle mode looks like on the V2 because im not incredibly fond of the 6/2 build’s behavior.

What would you like to change about it?

saypat wrote:
If I recall correctly doesn’t latest Anduril have momentary strobes, etc? This will be very FUN light to play with!

Yes, it has momentary strobes. I’m tempted to see if I can reflash the firmware on my camera to enable longer exposures, so I can try some light painting.

Rexlion
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TK, for light painting it seems like you could also take more than one exposure and combine them in Photoshop.

nick779
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ToyKeeper wrote:
nick779 wrote:
I also need to wait and see what the candle mode looks like on the V2 because im not incredibly fond of the 6/2 build’s behavior.

What would you like to change about it?

I need more time to compare their behavior. I have a few lights with varying iterations of candle mode.

~November 2018 build on a D4S and Q8 – Baseline + looks “smooth”
1st gen D4 (V2 Driver/no fancy lockout) – higher max brightness + distinguishable waveforms of at least 2 triangle waves.
6/2 on FW3A – higher max brightness + distinguishable waveforms of at least 2 triangle waves + seemingly more erratic 3rd wave?

I cant quite tell much difference between the Nov 2018 and D4v1(V2 driver) aside from maybe a minor increase in max allowable brightness fluctuations and the occasional noticeably stepped brightness increases.

Something about the 6/2 build just makes it seem like the “flame” is substantially more active and flickery, and that compounded with the higher allowable brightness isnt relaxing to me. I may have to reflash the older FW3A build just to confirm its the build and not the light, but I distinctly remember it looking different after the flash.

Obviously thats just my opinion though and something minor in the grand scheme of things. Perhaps its all in my head.

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I went ahead and pulled the trigger one of the D4V2’s. Wont be buying a collection like I did the original D4. Bet I have 20 Emisar lights.

pol77
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Are there going to be other colors? Or a Ti version?

Geuzzz
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HONDARIDER wrote:
I went ahead and pulled the trigger one of the D4V2’s. Wont be buying a collection like I did the original D4. Bet I have 20 Emisar light.

You have a problem Sir Wink

Klayking
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Yes, a problem. You seem to think that you won’t end up buying a collection of D4V2s. I hope your wallet has a contingency plan.

HONDARIDER
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Contingency plan is to wait till next payday. As far as the Emisar’s go I have one of each color in the D4 with almost all emmiters. Couple of D1S’s and a couple of D1’s. Easy to get a dozen pretty quickly. At $35 each (Except for the D4 with the XP-L Hi’s) that is reasonable on my wallet. Another $15 or so for thV2 just hits a little harder each time, It will be an $70 with the XP-L Hi’s. . I may get 3 or so but It will be difficult to do much more due to cost. Will not happen. Really wish I could find a D4 in Cyan with XP-L Hi’s. If anyone knows anyone with that one in particular.

Lexel
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Is there the Anduril for the new MCU already online?

ToyKeeper
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nick779 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
What would you like to change about it?

Something about the 6/2 build just makes it seem like the “flame” is substantially more active and flickery, and that compounded with the higher allowable brightness isnt relaxing to me.

Ah, okay. I can’t say I’m totally happy with it either. Those changes were mostly tested on the lantern, but I find it looks a bit odd on some other lights. I might have to figure out a way to increase the resolution somehow, like put it on a sub-ramp-level lowpass filter or something. It gets complicated due to having multiple power channels with differently-sized and non-linear steps.

Maybe I could just remove the slowest wave or replace it with something else… not sure. The low resolution makes things look really weird when it’s not actively flickering, but constant movement isn’t ideal either.

Or perhaps I could just increase the resolution, and maybe compress the tables to reduce the size impact. It might only work on bigger MCUs.

In any case, patches are welcome. Smile

pinkpanda3310
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…eerrrmm…. Nicotine patches…???

You speak some kind of language that uses English words but is still indisipherable TK Question
.
.
.

LOL

charwinger21
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
…eerrrmm…. Nicotine patches…???

You speak some kind of language that uses English words but is still indisipherable TK Question
.
.
.

LOL

Code patches.

As in other people contributing code aimed at this issue.

pinkpanda3310
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Lol, I have some idea of what a patch is. Was just being facetious Oops

RT--
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I am too weak to say no; D4v2 ordered – went with 3000K in sand+ss.

Already have these from Hank’s shop:
2x D4
3x D1
3x D4S
1x D18
2x M43

Big Smile
saypat
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RT— wrote:
I am too weak to say no; D4v2 ordered – went with 3000K in sand+ss.

Already have these from Hank’s shop:
2x D4
3x D1
3x D4S
1x D18
2x M43

Big Smile
• • • pictures or it didn’t happen Wink
saypat
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this latest offering has received a bit of fanfare, but I would have expected more. Not that exciting? I think this, one and if Hank does the D4S the same way, will be two of the greatest in my collection …. just my opinion.

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