TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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Firelight2
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sigh

My order shipped June 29. Still hasn’t arrived in California yet. (I went with the free shipping).

Guess I have another week or two of waiting to go. Tired

iamlucky13
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BabyDoc wrote:
I agree that the excitement for the D4v2 isn’t as much, at this point, as it was, say, for the FW3A. Frankly, although I don’t have a FW3A, it’s difficult for me to understand all the hoopla over the FW3A when you compare the features of the two lights.

….

What then is the FW3A/FW3C hoopla all about. I think it boils down to two things. This light was largely designed by the BLF. It has an end switch, which for many is a plus. For some that may be even essential, who wouldn’t even consider a light like the D4v2 that has a side switch.

The D4v2 level of hoopla should be treated as additional hoopla on top of the original D4 hoopla. Taken as a family, it’s huge.

The FW3A is enough of a different light to merit it’s own hoopla – not instead of the D4, but potentially in addition to, for slightly different purposes.

The tail switch is one obvious difference. I think (I don’t have mine yet), it’s also enough slimmer and lighter to be noticeably more comfortable in the pocket. I became interested in the FW3A specifically because I wanted a light similar to my D4, but a little slimmer.

Also, most of the firmware features the D4v2 adds are possible to implement in the FW3A. Hopefully Lumintop uses the latest version of Anduril each time they build a new batch of drivers.

pint
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Had a reply from Intl-outdoors re the faulty d$v2 i received, and there sending out a replacement Smile
I’ve been asked to return the faulty one, however i’m not sure at this time on weather the whole order needs returning (18350 tube+stainless bezel+magnetic tailcap) or just the main D4v2 with magnetic tailcap
it needs to be shipped back to China, so at the moment I’m just waiting on a response as to what exactly needs to be returned

Firelight2
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Bounces up and down in frustrating while staring at the mailbox

Come on USPSGIMME MY D4v2!!!!!! Crazy

mcfarlie6996
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Where do I find your chili peppers in your review?

Maximillian
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I´m gonna jump on the wagon and get med one of theese soon.

The one thing that boggles me is the LED choice, generally i prefer more Cool White lights and i´m looking at getting a more “throw”.

I know the D4 V2 isn´t a thrower, but which LED would give me a cooler tint and a tad more throw?

Geuzzz
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Maximillian wrote:
I´m gonna jump on the wagon and get med one of theese soon.

The one thing that boggles me is the LED choice, generally i prefer more Cool White lights and i´m looking at getting a more “throw”.

I know the D4 V2 isn´t a thrower, but which LED would give me a cooler tint and a tad more throw?

Sst-20 6500k

ToyKeeper
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mcfarlie6996 wrote:
Where do I find your chili peppers in your review?

It’s a D4. It has all the chili peppers. That’s kind of its thing. Wink

ToyKeeper
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I tried to measure aux LED power use again. I can’t say for sure my numbers are good, since my D4v2 has the resistors set up differently than a production model, and my measuring equipment isn’t very precise at low power levels, but here’s what I got…

  • Low mode (rainbow): 0.077 mA to 0.107 mA, depending on how I measure
    Runtime: 3.7 to 5.2 years
  • High mode (rainbow): 2.89 to 3.01 mA, depending on how I measure
    Runtime: 48 to 50 days
  • Blinky mode (rainbow): 0.205 to 0.424 mA, depending on how I measure
    Runtime: 0.9 to 1.9 years
  • Moon mode: ~1.8 mA
    Runtime: ~81 days

These were each sampled over time and then averaged. The power source was at 3.7V. Runtimes assume a 3500 mAh cell.

pennzy
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[quote=pint]Had a reply from Intl-outdoors re the faulty d$v2 i received, and there sending out a replacement Smile
I’ve been asked to return the faulty one”

That sounds expensive. I am surprised they want it back. Kind of makes it impractical.

Firelight2
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pennzy][quote=pint wrote:
Had a reply from Intl-outdoors re the faulty d$v2 i received, and there sending out a replacement Smile
I’ve been asked to return the faulty one”

That sounds expensive. I am surprised they want it back. Kind of makes it impractical.


Maybe they want it back so they can investigate to see what went wrong. Perhaps you can ask them to reimburse you for shipping?
FabienG
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Mark M
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I have noticed ringing with certain strobe frequencies coming from the tailcap. Has anyone else noticed audible resonance occuring with certain strobe frequencies?

saypat
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I tried all the different strobes, but not different frequencies, mine has the magnetic tailcap ……. nothing heard here.

Mark M
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Go to the party strobe (tactical works also) and adjust the frequency while listening closely to the tailcap. If you have the full length battery tube it is harder to hear so put it close to your ear. With the 18350 tube it is pretty loud. Happens on both of my lights with different emitters.

Edit: The ringing seems to be from the FET switching and inducing voltage ringing in the circuit.

Mark M
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I will try and get some voltage measurements on my oscilloscope tomorrow, if the ringing pushes the FET drain-source voltage too high it may shorten the lifespan of the FET.

BurningPlayd0h
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I had this sound happen with my PL47 but on no other FET light in any mode. Wasn’t just in strobe either, you could hear ringing that changed pitch as it was ramped up and down in normal mode.

Mark M
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
I had this sound happen with my PL47 but on no other FET light in any mode. Wasn’t just in strobe either, you could hear ringing that changed pitch as it was ramped up and down in normal mode.

Oof, probably not the most ideal circuit design. Silly

specialk
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Thanks for measuring the aux led power usage again.

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Mark M wrote:
I have noticed ringing with certain strobe frequencies coming from the tailcap. Has anyone else noticed audible resonance occuring with certain strobe frequencies?

Yes. I’ve noticed this on almost every FET-based light I have.

On some early designs, the ringing would actually make the attiny chip reboot. This happened both on strobe modes and on regular PWM’d FET modes. Each time the FET closed and stopped current flowing, it made a voltage spike well out of the attiny’s specs and tolerance. But the circuit designs were updated to soften and absorb that spike, and I think all the current designs have at least some similar measures included.

I think the dampener is between MCU and FET though. I’m not sure if it helps protect the FET itself, or just the MCU. Probably some of each, since IIRC it softens the edges of each pulse. But I don’t have a scope to actually measure it.

The Emisar products are probably fine, since the drivers were designed by the same person who identified and fixed the ringing-reboot problem in the first place. I’m not sure about other brands though.

chucknoel2015
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its funny, my d4v2 cant start fires, tried it today was curious and used it with a piece of paper, ended up blinding me temporarily. feels like i was looking at the sun for few minutes.

Nev
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chucknoel2015 wrote:
its funny, my d4v2 cant start fires, tried it today was curious and used it with a piece of paper, ended up blinding me temporarily. feels like i was looking at the sun for few minutes.

I’m just guessing here but it’s probly because it’s running anduril ,which means it can’t be on full power more than a few seconds because of the aggressive step downs , you can start a fire with a D4 with ramping ui or ramping v2.
ToyKeeper
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To ignite paper using light, it helps if the paper is black or dark-colored.

Also, I finally updated the UI diagram. It shows the new features now, mostly. It’s getting quite crowded though, with all the different functions available.

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chucknoel2015 wrote:
its funny, my d4v2 cant start fires, tried it today was curious and used it with a piece of paper, ended up blinding me temporarily. feels like i was looking at the sun for few minutes.

Draw a dark circle on the white paper, I think that would help you to ignite a flame.

specialk
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Does anybody know the o-ring size for the D4v2? Thanks

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Don’t know if it was covered earlier in the thread, but is it possible to alter the Anduril source to change the colors of the battery status aux leds? Like change it from the stock blue/green/red to green/yellow/red or green/blue/red, for instance?

saypat
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could someone please explain how the battery status aux LEDs work? Thanks.
Mark M
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saypat wrote:
could someone please explain how the battery status aux LEDs work? Thanks.

It is a mode you select. The mode will show blue, green or red depending on the battery voltage. The updated UI graphic shows how to select it. When you are cycling through the different aux color/modes there is the slow cycling rainbow and the fast cycling rainbow. The fast cycling rainbow is the battery voltage indication mode. When you finish selecting the mode it will then show one of the three colors.

DarkShot wrote:
Don’t know if it was covered earlier in the thread, but is it possible to alter the Anduril source to change the colors of the battery status aux leds? Like change it from the stock blue/green/red to green/yellow/red or green/blue/red, for instance?

While I am sure it is possible to do, TK hasn’t released all of the source code files for this model yet (someone correct me if I am wrong).

Valynor
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Just received my D4v2 in SST-20 3000K and wow, it’s a very nice light.

Unfortunately I have found a problem with it:

When I click or click+hold the button from off the flashlight sometimes (maybe 1 in 40 clicks) does not turn on – nothing happens.
The click from the button sounds and feels normal when this happens so I don’t think it is a problem with the switch itself, because it ONLY
happens when I try to turn on the flashlight but never when changing modes or turning it off.

It took me one or two days to notice this problem because it doesn’t happen very often and I wasn’t sure if I made a mistake when playing
with the light and learning the Anduril UI.
But when I picked up the light from my desk and tried to click it on and nothing happened it became clear that something was wrong.

I am using a Sony VTC6 18650. I also cleaned all electrical contacts, this didn’t help.

@ToyKeeper
Do you think this could be software issue? I just found this bug report https://bugs.launchpad.net/flashlight-firmware/+bug/1803918 which seems to describe a similar problem. I am using the Aux LEDs as battery indicator, though.

Mark M
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Valynor wrote:
Just received my D4v2 in SST-20 3000K and wow, it’s a very nice light.

Unfortunately I have found a problem with it:

When I click or click+hold the button from off the flashlight sometimes (maybe 1 in 40 clicks) does not turn on – nothing happens.
The click from the button sounds and feels normal when this happens so I don’t think it is a problem with the switch itself, because it ONLY
happens when I try to turn on the flashlight but never when changing modes or turning it off.

It took me one or two days to notice this problem because it doesn’t happen very often and I wasn’t sure if I made a mistake when playing
with the light and learning the Anduril UI.
But when I picked up the light from my desk and tried to click it on and nothing happened it became clear that something was wrong.

I am using a Sony VTC6 18650. I also cleaned all electrical contacts, this didn’t help.

@ToyKeeper
Do you think this could be software issue? I just found this bug report https://bugs.launchpad.net/flashlight-firmware/+bug/1803918 which seems to describe a similar problem. I am using the Aux LEDs as battery indicator, though.

Read this post regarding the issue.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1520478#comment-1520478

The microcontroller wakes up approximately every 30 seconds to measure voltage, and it will not respond to input for a very short period of time.

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