TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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TheOnlyDocc
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Wow big compliments to ToyKeeper for all the work that went into this light. And big compliments to Hank Wang to be willing to do all these changes.
I do not own a D4 now. But i think i have to save some money to get me one!

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Klayking
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TK and Hank are a dream team for compact, stupidly high output lights with cool features at a low price point. Is there anyone else involved that we should be thanking too? Smile

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Agreed. Great work Hank and TK.

I love the D4. It’s my favorite EDC light.

The addition of Anduril helps a lot with accidental pocket activation. You can set the top of the ramp to a level just below where it would burn a hole through your pants. It will still turn on in the pocket every now and then, but shouldn’t be a fire danger since the chances of it double-clicking to turbo in your pocket are virtually nil.

That said, it is a shame they didn’t make it harder to turn on in the pocket. It wouldn’t even have been necessary to redesign the head. All that was needed is a slight enlargement of the top of the stainless steel switchboot retaining ring so that it sticks up above the head forming a raised ring around the button.

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Is the double click turbo user configurable too? Or just max?

Johm
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Ryzbor wrote:
Johm wrote:
@Ryzbor I used the shortcut for high/turbo, then off, then on again expecting the low mode I was using before turbo.

Remembering the mode one used before the last used mode is a bit problematic, especially on the longer term.

Johm wrote:
My point is that if you have a flashlight that can produce both moonlight and turbo there is ALWAYS a chance you will not get what you want. (or be disappointed by the sequence)

That’s why I prefer no MM, you always know what you get and with the newer UI a can achieve that.

I agree, i also don’t like memory. (its even worst if you use a lot of lights)

Thankfully Anduril is getting better by the week.
Good job TK.

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No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?

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I have now flashed Anduril onto a few lights, but I am a newbie. Is there anything close to an off-the-shelf pogo-pin adapter that would work with the new D4? I don’t have the ability to make custom boards and I don’t have anything that can do reflow soldering. It looks like both are necessary to build your own pogo-pin adapter.

I would be happy to pay for an adapter if anyone would be willing to put one together for me.

I expect there are plenty of other people who aren’t planning to do hardware development or programming but would still like an option for flashing updates. Does anyone have any suggestions for a way to do this?

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bquinlan wrote:
I have now flashed Anduril onto a few lights, but I am a newbie. Is there anything close to an off-the-shelf pogo-pin adapter that would work with the new D4? I don’t have the ability to make custom boards and I don’t have anything that can do reflow soldering. It looks like both are necessary to build your own pogo-pin adapter.

I would be happy to pay for an adapter if anyone would be willing to put one together for me.

I expect there are plenty of other people who aren’t planning to do hardware development or programming but would still like an option for flashing updates. Does anyone have any suggestions for a way to do this?

I too would be interested in either a DIY kit or a fully assembled one

Klayking
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Make that three.

lumos_maxima
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djozz wrote:
Thanks for the review, it has all the information that one could wish Smile Thumbs Up

Those are all nice upgrades, yet the ultimate problem of the D4 was not solved: D4V2 having the same switch as the D4 makes this ultimate pocket EDC light again unsuitable to pocket EDC Sad Flat Stare Tired . It will switch on in your pocket, you are obliged to lock it out which, however nice the user interface is, makes the handling medieval compared to my ancient EDC-tailclicky. If I need light, without looking or fiddling I have light in 1 second, when I’m done its back in my pocket in 1 second. That is how I have used my EDC for 8 years now (many times a day) and I see no reason to give that up for all the bells and whistles in the world.

Waiting for D4V3 Flat Stare

Edit: maybe I’m particularly grumpy about how I want my EDC to be, see the above as a personal disappointment.

At work(factory) I use momentary mode and carry in my pocket. I only need light to check on stuff for a few seconds so I really like that option, don’t have to lock it for my use. I’m not sure on this light if the momentary mode brightness is programmable but if so that’s a safe way of carrying it without having to lock it.

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But that robs you from the nice ramping UI, and my current EDC has 4 or 7 modes instead of just 1 (runs on a BLF-A6 driver, with also a famous TK UI Smile Thumbs Up )

JordanZHP
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Great review!

Do we know the bin of the SST20 4000K 95CRI? FA3 hopefully to eliminate green a lower levels?

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sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?

That would be hard since they aren’t a thing that exists. The “rainbow” mode cycles colors.

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sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?


hmmm, you are correct! I thought u were mistaken. The white is missing! Start counting with red as number 1 and there are only 6 colors. Something is amiss, and I’m sure TK just let the video run, she didn’t exclude anything. Maybe there are only 6 colors.

TK?

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JordanZHP wrote:
Great review!

Do we know the bin of the SST20 4000K 95CRI? FA3 hopefully to eliminate green a lower levels?

I ordered a D4 sst20 4000K with uncoated lens from Hank and it has zero green tint.

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lumos_maxima wrote:
JordanZHP wrote:
Great review!

Do we know the bin of the SST20 4000K 95CRI? FA3 hopefully to eliminate green a lower levels?

I ordered a D4 sst20 4000K with uncoated lens from Hank and it has zero green tint.

Great to know, thank you!

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saypat wrote:
sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?


hmmm, you are correct! I thought u were mistaken. The white is missing! Start counting with red as number 1 and there are only 6 colors. Something is amiss, and I’m sure TK just let the video run, she didn’t exclude anything. Maybe there are only 6 colors.

TK?

That was a video of the rainbow setting. Maybe the rainbow setting doesn’t include the white(ish) color in its rotation. I agree, it would be nice to see what the white aux color looks like, though!

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lumos_maxima wrote:
JordanZHP wrote:
Great review!

Do we know the bin of the SST20 4000K 95CRI? FA3 hopefully to eliminate green a lower levels?

I ordered a D4 sst20 4000K with uncoated lens from Hank and it has zero green tint.

Wonder if he has a different bin in.

The sst20 4000K D4 I got from Hank a few months ago is very green at intermediate and low power levels. Looks fine on turbo though.

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shinysideup wrote:
saypat wrote:
sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?


hmmm, you are correct! I thought u were mistaken. The white is missing! Start counting with red as number 1 and there are only 6 colors. Something is amiss, and I’m sure TK just let the video run, she didn’t exclude anything. Maybe there are only 6 colors.

TK?

That was a video of the rainbow setting. Maybe the rainbow setting doesn’t include the white(ish) color in its rotation. I agree, it would be nice to see what the white aux color looks like, though!

Right, I’ve heard or seen nothing about a “white” setting existing so it would be hard to see a picture or vid of it. I could just be dumb and/or blind though (maybe shining flashlights into my eye has caused blindspots Big Smile )

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It looks like the aux LED’s are RGB and are mixed to yellow, cyan, purple, and white(ish)? The results from the GIF at least look very cool.

I know breathing and/or fading transitions are bad standby battery drain, but if you ever felt a desire to tinker with the aux LED programming further, you could experiment with putting such a feature on a timer like sunset mode. I’ve seem some really cool implementations of smooth color cycling.

That’s just an idle thought, though. I’m already really impressed as is.

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Thank you so much for all your hard work. I love this UI. I recently got back into flashlights. Several years ago low med and high was as good as it got. When you added lightning and candle mode it blew my mind. I purchased two of these. Looking forward to them.

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Thank you so much for all your hard work. I love this UI. I recently got back into flashlights. Several years ago low med and high was as good as it got. When you added lightning and candle mode it blew my mind. I purchased two of these. Looking forward to them.

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Gunga wrote:
Is the double click turbo user configurable too? Or just max?

No. Changing the ramp ceiling sets the double click from off ouput, but not the double click from on (turbo) output.

As far as I know, changing the turbo output requires a small code change.

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sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?


went back and found this from the OP:

Official Specs

Aux LEDs: Red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magenta, rainbow aux LED options is selectable through config UI, as well as the voltage indication function.

sbslider
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saypat wrote:
sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?


went back and found this from the OP:

Official Specs

Aux LEDs: Red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magenta, rainbow aux LED options is selectable through config UI, as well as the voltage indication function.


agreed, on intl outdoor there’s no mention of a white, but it is mentioned a couple times in the OP. Guessing the pictures/video/gif shows there are only 6 colors, not 7.
If that’s the worst thing to pick at on the light, not too bad I’d say.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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With the target market for these being giant flashlight nerds, I think the tint bins should be listed on the order page.

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sbslider wrote:
saypat wrote:
sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?


went back and found this from the OP:

Official Specs

Aux LEDs: Red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magenta, rainbow aux LED options is selectable through config UI, as well as the voltage indication function.


agreed, on intl outdoor there’s no mention of a white, but it is mentioned a couple times in the OP. Guessing the pictures/video/gif shows there are only 6 colors, not 7.
If that’s the worst thing to pick at on the light, not too bad I’d say.

Off may be a Color too?

Blacker than Black. Wink

Like with Video.

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Apologies for the long comment… lots of questions to answer.


—— memory ——

Geuzzz wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
manual memory

Perfect, best and essential option in my opinion.

TBH, I find manual memory annoying. It means the brightness resets every time I turn the light off/on, instead of remembering where I was a moment ago. But it was requested a lot, so I added it.

trakcon wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
manual memory

Somehow I missed this feature. Will it be in all Anduril target builds going forward?

Yes, I think so.

I’m thinking of maybe changing some button mappings at some point though. Like, maybe 5 clicks for config modes and then 4 clicks would be available for things like manual memory. Not sure. This isn’t likely to happen soon though.

Ryzbor wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m not sure what “true memory” means

remember the mode accessed by using a shortcut

Okay, that makes sense. Things started out that way, but a lot of people complained. So I changed it to not remember shortcut-moon and shortcut-turbo, and people in general seemed happier with it.

Basically, people mostly voted against “true memory”… so it was changed to something fancier. I don’t think anyone has asked to get the old method back before, but reverting it back to true memory is a pretty small code change, if you are able to reflash it.


—— reflashing ——

toobadorz wrote:
TK, have you ever tried the firmware flashing pads yourself? … can we flash the D4V2 successfully without de-soldering anything?

Yes. It’s literally the only way to flash firmware on this light. There’s a picture of it in the review.

A couple of Lexel’s earlier drivers didn’t allow reflashing without unsoldering anything, but the issue was limited to only his drivers, and he fixed it after I complained. But Emisar’s lights are completely unrelated to any of that.

bquinlan wrote:
Is there anything close to an off-the-shelf pogo-pin adapter that would work with the new D4?

Not yet. Sad

I’m really hoping someone will make these commercially available, but it hasn’t happened yet. I’m not sure why. Someone really needs to sell some reflashing kits.


—— configuration ——

Gunga wrote:
Is the double click turbo user configurable too? Or just max?

The ceiling level is configurable, but double click while on goes to full turbo. To change that level, you’d need to modify the firmware.

On the Nichia 219 model though, turbo is limited to 75% power. This is to reduce the risk of the light damaging itself.

lumos_maxima wrote:
I’m not sure on this light if the momentary mode brightness is programmable

Yes. Go to the mode and brightness you want, turn off the light, then activate momentary mode. That’s the mode and brightness it’ll use during momentary.

The supported modes include ramps (smooth or stepped) and the entire “strobe” group.


—— aux LEDs ——

wolfstyle wrote:
Wonder why the Aux voltage is not Green: Full Yellow: medium Red: low Off: critical

Originally it was:

  • Purple: full
  • Blue: nearly full
  • Cyan: high
  • Green: medium
  • Yellow: low
  • Red: very low
  • Off: critical

… but Hank felt that was too complicated, and the color mixing wasn’t very good on the prototype, so he asked me to simplify it to just blue/green/red to match how the Meteor’s voltage display worked.

sbslider wrote:
No picture/view of the White-ish aux lights?

It’s not very white. It’s red+green+blue, or … kind of an ice blue. Ish. I’m not totally sure, since the resistors on mine are different than production lights, so my color balance is a bit different.

The animation shows the rainbow mode… which includes the first 6 colors but not “white”.

These are the “colors” available:

  1. red
  2. red+green (yellow)
  3. green
  4. green+blue (cyan)
  5. blue
  6. blue+red (purple)
  7. red+green+blue (white-ish)
  8. rainbow (cycles first 6 colors)
  9. voltage

Regardless, if you want a white aux LED mode, I’d recommend just using moon mode instead. It makes more light and uses less power.

iamlucky13 wrote:
I know breathing and/or fading transitions are bad standby battery drain, but if you ever felt a desire to tinker with the aux LED programming further…

Only one of the aux LED channels has PWM. The others would have to be emulated. This makes smooth color-mixing pretty impractical.


—— misc ——

korpzgrinda wrote:
new stainless bezel fits on the green D4 first version?

Nope, the bezel threading changed.

The tailcap seems to be swappable though.

Ryzbor wrote:
Ramping IOS V2 was very simple and could be “mastered” by everyone. Anduril is complicated, too complicated for non-flashoholic people

Ah. Yes, it has a lot of extras. OTOH, the only things people need to know to use it are: Click for on/off, hold to change brightness. Everything else is optional.

Starkm32 wrote:
Is the pocket rocket still prone to self-activation, becoming
A pocket torch, burning bright in your pants?

If not, can a deactivate mode be programmed in, like two long presses (instead
Of 6 short ones) to have it go on/off in sleep mode.

This light is the definition of a pocket rocket.

There are more safety features in this than the original D4, like setting a default ceiling level of only half power instead of full power… and muggle mode, for lending it to others. But I’d still recommend being careful with it. In particular, lock it if you’re going to carry it anywhere the button could get pressed.

The original D4 lockout function was 6 clicks, and then it blinked slowly to confirm. It took a few seconds to lock or unlock, and it was necessary to unlock the light to use it.

The D4V2 lockout function is 4 clicks, and the confirmation blinks are much faster. It now takes about 1 second total instead of a few. Additionally, it gives access to two low modes during lockout, so it doesn’t need to be unlocked for quick tasks.

Or a slight turn of the tailcap can lock it too.

Terry Oregon wrote:
reasons I finally ordered my first Emisar. Don’t like my lights to get hot at all (I don’t mind sacrificing output).

To be clear, it’ll still get pretty hot in turbo mode before it settles on a sustainable level. People mostly have wanted to make sure turbo will run for at least a few seconds before ramping down, even if that means getting hot… so instead of making turbo step down after like 2 seconds, it stays there for a little while.

But in general, aside from that initial peak, it should stay at a pretty comfortable temperature.

twisted raven wrote:
What’s the light output graph look like if the light were to start at 1000 lumens?

That’s going to take a few hours to measure. I suppose I should do it though… charging up a cell now.

Klayking wrote:
Is there anyone else involved that we should be thanking too? Smile

DEL made the driver. He’s not active on BLF any more, but he has made the drivers for several of the most popular lights around here. For example, the BLF GT driver is pretty fantastic.

bquinlan
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djozz wrote:
It will switch on in your pocket, you are obliged to lock it out which, however nice the user interface is, makes the handling medieval compared to my ancient EDC-tailclicky.

You certainly aren’t wrong about the light activating too easily. I would prefer a recessed switch too.

Where I disagree is that I don’t think a recessed switch would make sufficient difference. My D4S has a recessed switch and it still gets turned on in my pocket occasionally. I have had pretty much every light I’ve ever carried do that at least a few times, which includes the FW3A, ZebraLight H600Fd, Fireflies E07, Thrunite TH30, and many others. The only lights I really trust never to do that are twist-on types. (And I never to get stuck using a modern UI with a twist-on switch!) Some switches are more prone to this problem than others, but with any light that really heats up, even once is a serious safety hazard.

So I have come to the conclusion that some form of lockout is necessary no matter what kind of switch is used. Given that, the lack of a recessed switch is a minor disadvantage, but not a critical one.

Just a different perspective.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
oweban wrote:
*looks at wiring of aux+mcpcb* Note to self, don’t ever change the emitters.
Yeah... I personally plan on never getting a soldering iron near this light. I don't want to deal with soldering such small things in a tight space.

I have a D4 v.1 with Nichias (and no screws) where one has desoldered but will light up a bit if I take off and replace the optic, for a moment.  I have a replacement LED although removing the MCPCB and reflowing the existing ones may get it up and shining. I have a daunting task. I just don't want to put it away in a drawer. I've reached out for help to some here in the forum but any recommendations are welcomed!

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