TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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ToyKeeper
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whipskirtayeyay wrote:
What’s the best source for the programming keys?

The HQ ProgKey Universal is probably the one you’re looking for:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/63230

The boards are available from Oshpark and they’re relatively cheap since they’re so small. I’d recommend attaching wires to the boards instead of a header block, because it makes the thing easier to fit into tight spaces. The block ideally goes several cm away on the wires, or could even just be omitted if you can get a ribbon cable to fit. Then the other end of the cable can be configured however one wants, to fit a variety of different pad layouts.

I keep three full kits wired up — one for a SOIC8 clip, one for Emisar’s pad layout, and one for Lexel’s pad layout. One of the three has something weird with the usbasp device though; it stops working after one avrdude command, and then I have to unplug/replug the USB port to reset it. I’m not sure where that usbasp came from though. It looks just like the two I got from fasttech, except it doesn’t quite work the same. Have been meaning to order a couple more, and hopefully they’ll be more reliable.

Tom6
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Can you use the tube from d4 v1
with v2?

saypat
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curious on the aux LEDs, how bright are they? About the same as the FF E07? Is it fairly noticeable on the low vs high setting? If I take my E07 into a dark closet and turn on the aux LEDs and aim it at the ceiling, I can’t see them on the ceiling. Looking forward to that ‘rainbow’ setting Smile

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Is there the Aux “heartbeat” like on earlier versions of Anduril. bright beats, dim beats…

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

ToyKeeper
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Tom6 wrote:
Can you use the tube from d4 v1 with v2?

I only tested one, but yes. It looks like the tube is compatible.

saypat wrote:
curious on the aux LEDs, how bright are they?

I’m not sure. My sample has the resistors set up differently than a production version, so I can’t really measure that part.

Man Without Shadow wrote:
Is there the Aux “heartbeat” like on earlier versions of Anduril. bright beats, dim beats…

Yes, that’s the pattern it uses in blinking mode.

Man Without Shadow
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Nice! Will it heartbeat in rainbow mode as it switches colors? Each color gets a heartbeat flash?

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

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@ToyKeeper what aabout the 18350 tube from the v2 use it on the D1S? could yo see if it works Smile

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Firelight2 wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
I’ve tried minus-green filter in my SST-20 D4. It greatly improves the tint.

But at the same time, it’s not a great solution. Minus green filter reduces lumen output anywhere from 14 to 30% depending on which Lee filter you choose. Result is better tint, but MUCH lower output.

15% reduction isn’t very noticeable at all to human eyes. Considering the alternative is 219Bs with their much lower output and less throw I’d say that’s a serious net gain if the tint of the SST-20s bothers anyone.

The filters that only reduce output 15% also shift the color temperature noticeably warmer. The filters that don’t shift color temp reduce output considerably more than 15%.

That sounds… counter-intuitive. To shift CCT warmer you need to be cutting out more of a wider range of colors vs simply filtering out a bit of the green range

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Man Without Shadow wrote:
Nice! Will it heartbeat in rainbow mode as it switches colors? Each color gets a heartbeat flash?

The color cycling and brightness changes happen independent of each other, on different time scales, so it makes a pretty colorful pattern overall.

Figgy wrote:
@ToyKeeper what aabout the 18350 tube from the v2 use it on the D1S? could yo see if it works Smile

No. The D1S is not compatible with D4/D1 tubes.

contactcr
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Diffusing the beam can effect the tint a lot. If the filters do that it could be an unintended consequence.

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My current D4 has a XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K which is no longer offered. I really like it and was wondering what would be closest to it now from Emisar? 5000K is my preferred temperature.

ToyKeeper
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pennzy wrote:
My current D4 has a XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K which is no longer offered. I really like it and was wondering what would be closest to it now from Emisar? 5000K is my preferred temperature.

Probably the XP-L HI 3A?

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Thanks for all your work on this TK and Hank!

 

Just ordered my first Emisar (D4V2) after doing some research and am excited to have a true pocket rocket.  My main EDC is a ZL SC600w MKIII which I've carried daily for a couple years now.  I've been wanting another ramping EDC light that I could get the specific brightness for any given situation.

 

 

 

 

Oh, and I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to subscribe to this thread, so decided to post.

contactcr
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srvctec wrote:

Oh, and I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to subscribe to this thread, so decided to post.

It’s a button on the first post (only)

pennzy
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ToyKeeper wrote:
pennzy wrote:
My current D4 has a XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K which is no longer offered. I really like it and was wondering what would be closest to it now from Emisar? 5000K is my preferred temperature.

Probably the XP-L HI 3A?


Too bad the XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K is no longer offered. It was perfect without the upgrade cost of XP-L HI. I assume the SST20-5000k is green at lower levels?
Old Mate
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Good to see you can now adjust the thermal sensor to the correct ambient temperature. My first D4 was spot on, but my other two showed 12-15 degrees above ambient. I really like the upgrades to the ui and the light itself . Do i need another one? Absolutely – probably two!

Old Mate

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Old Mate wrote:
Good to see you can now adjust the thermal sensor to the correct ambient temperature. My first D4 was spot on, but my other two showed 12-15 degrees above ambient. I really like the upgrades to the ui and the light itself . Do i need another one? Absolutely – probably two!
• • • need? want?
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saypat wrote:
Old Mate wrote:
Good to see you can now adjust the thermal sensor to the correct ambient temperature. My first D4 was spot on, but my other two showed 12-15 degrees above ambient. I really like the upgrades to the ui and the light itself . Do i need another one? Absolutely – probably two!
• • • need? want?

I think i need them so i cant afford copious amounts of alcohol. he he.

Old Mate

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yo any good belt clip for the 18350 tube any coolones out there?

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Well..

 

#include <mewantzshinyflashlight> //(basic library)

 

If (Emisar has Anduril){

                       me bought my firszt Emisar Silly //(D4V2 that is.. )

}

 

The End..

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hi everyone, I am going to purchase a emisar d4 v2 i just need some clarification and answers since i am a newbie
i just got my emisar d18 and it came with sst20 5k and i think its so pale for me since I am edcing a s1r baton ii

-which one should i opt sst20 6500k or xpl hi v3 1a 6500k ?
-also which one is better 18350 tube vs 18500 tube? does it have difference in runtime and output? and will i have to get another size battery? so if i would not want to use the normal tube that means i dont have to buy samsung 30q battery for the original tube right?
-also i emailed hank but hasnt got any reply yet. do they offer different shipping option(faster express shipping for a cost) as I got my d18 for almost a month and I want to order today so I can get it max 2 weeks since I am going overseas and i want to take it with me

thank you very much for everyones help. newbie here

saypat
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regarding shipping, click on the shipping link on his website, you need to contact him for other available shipping options.

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When you say pale, what do you mean exactly? Not often I come across someone who prefers 6500k Shocked

The SST20 will be a little “green” at at lower lumens, but should clean up at high. Maybe check out XPL HI 5000K – more of a straight “white” to me than most other emitters.

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hi thanks for the reply. I can say pale comparing it to my olight s1r baton ii (not sure of the tint of it )
had always been in love with bluish tint of my lights including my motorcycle lights and car HID lights which was i think 10k tint.

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Dear lord. Okay, yep, the Olight you have is 6500k, if you’re after that, then go for either SST20 or XPL HI in that temp.

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thank you for your advice, i was just being dumb, when i was charging my olight i saw a writing on top that it says 70 cri 6500k. so my bad. Facepalm

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All good! These things happen Smile

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chucknoel2015 wrote:
hi thanks for the reply. I can say pale comparing it to my olight s1r baton ii (not sure of the tint of it ) had always been in love with bluish tint of my lights including my motorcycle lights and car HID lights which was i think 10k tint.

Great way to keep the hobby alive. First go for cool white high output -> replace everything with neutral white -> get into cri and replace everything again -> go on a 4000k hcri quest -> repeat for 3000k.

Don’t ask how I know Facepalm

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Geuzzz wrote:
chucknoel2015 wrote:
hi thanks for the reply. I can say pale comparing it to my olight s1r baton ii (not sure of the tint of it ) had always been in love with bluish tint of my lights including my motorcycle lights and car HID lights which was i think 10k tint.

Great way to keep the hobby alive. First go for cool white high output -> replace everything with neutral white -> get into cri and replace everything again -> go on a 4000k hcri quest -> repeat for 3000k.

Don’t ask how I know Facepalm


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X3 wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
chucknoel2015 wrote:
hi thanks for the reply. I can say pale comparing it to my olight s1r baton ii (not sure of the tint of it ) had always been in love with bluish tint of my lights including my motorcycle lights and car HID lights which was i think 10k tint.

Great way to keep the hobby alive. First go for cool white high output -> replace everything with neutral white -> get into cri and replace everything again -> go on a 4000k hcri quest -> repeat for 3000k.

Don’t ask how I know Facepalm


Are you me ? Innocent

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