[SALE] FW3A lighted TIR board multicolored with LVP, stabilized or High/low

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Lexel
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[SALE] FW3A lighted TIR board multicolored with LVP, stabilized or High/low

how it began can be read here
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59061#comment-1355514

Boards can be build as Gen 1 to 1.7 now

Generation 1 High/low capability but then LEDs dim to about 50% between full and empty battery
Generation 1.2 LEDs are voltage stabilized High/low does not work, no LVP
Generation 1.5 unregulated LED voltage + LVP
Generation 1.7 stabilized with LDO + LVP

- version with LDO → High/low not possible
- version with LVP → High/low not possible
→ flash #define INDICATOR_LED_SKIP_LOW setting as well

LDO → constant brightness and color mix over full battery voltage
LVP → shuts down when battery low (2.93V without MCU, 3.3V with MCU used)

.

LVP chip shuts down at 2.93V voltage,
if the MCU is used for Aux control also the reverse polarity protection diode counts in with about 0.35V
- above 3.3V all LEDs on and below 3.3V all LEDs off

.

fits FW3A and Noctigon Triple

Sample with warm white, ice blue and pink

.

Production board and stencil ready

any color combinations are possible each LED could have a different color

.

LEDs as you wish colors and patterns
450nm blue, pink, red, orange, yellow, green, ice blue, WW, CW (the yellowish green is too inefficient)
new LED batch cooperator boards for 3 brightness levels made

[LED colors] (top are most efficient, bottom inefficient)

LED color and each single LED current based on my “medium 0.5mA” brightness level

green 19.1uA
blue 21.2uA
ice blue 25.2uA
pink 30.7uA
CW 38.7uA
WW 40.2uA
red 50.9uA
orange 124uA
yellow 206uA

my LED brightness scale is based on my Rainbow+WW boards total current while LEDs seem same brightness

basically I have 5 levels “1mA”, “0.75mA”, “0.5mA”, “0.3mA” and “0.15mA”
this does only reflect on rainbow boards with WW the total current drawn

on the boards the total current depends on used colors and brightness level (“0.15-1mA”)

.

I can also build a board with a current consumption you want
for example, you can order a “0.3mA” pink/green all 12 LEDs equipped

Edited by: Lexel on 07/07/2019 - 09:43
Lexel
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Prices:

5€ Single color board
+0.25€ voltage stabilization
+0.5€ LVP chip
custom color combination
2 colors +0.5€
3-4 colors +0.75€
4-6 colors +1€
>6 colors +1.25€

Orders with more than 3 identical or single color boards get 10% discount

.

Shipping:

I will add some plastic card and structured paper to protect the boards

1.5€ standard bubble envelope 0.5cm <20g
2€ thick bubble envelope 1cm <50g
tracking adds 4€

Tracking Info
https://www.deutschepost.de/sendung/simpleQuery.html?locale=en_GB

Lexel
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How to order

send me a PM if you want to order boards

tell me
- which color(s) you want,
- the color pattern you can make a simple picture from the preview picture like this example

- I need to know which version
- brightness or current consumption you want

UPDATE 09-11-2019

v2.1 now here, should fit also 2. batch of FW3A MCPCB better, still the negative lead cant be opened that far without loosing one LED, so scratching the paint off in the Aux board slot, there is plenty of area
fits as well Noctigon Triple

Some more things like one 0603 resistor after the LDO to also lower the build brightness if desired
2 or 3 wire operation to implement also LVP+High/low
battery+ → +
MCUL
GND

3 pad connection High/Low +LVP or when you want LVP at 2.93V instead 2.93V plus driver diode drop (3.2V)

Lexel
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Modding guide

First remove the retaining ring, lens and optics

Unsolder the MCPCB wires and pull the driver

.

Now we got 2 options
- use the MCU with Aux support firmware flashed, to control the Aux board (ON/OFF/blink/LOW)
- use battery voltage to drive the board without MCU control
in the second case simply ignore the optical nerve connection and do a bridge from MCPCB+ to aux board +

.

Remove the optical nerve resistor and tin the right pad

Prepare a thin wire for the aux board + connection and solder it to the tinned pad

(AWG28 silicone wire used, it’s cut a bit too long)

Scrape off some solder stop mask and tin the area for ground and solder the 2. wire to it

Modify Anduril for Aux support and flash MCU with programming adapter
I also compiled hex files for the FW3A, but they are untested yet
It’s not stock Anduril there are some changes
http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/FW3A/Anduril_aux.zip

Align the driver with the flat side to the head so it rests flat on the whole surface and screw down retaining ring, solder MCPCB

Aux board is build and tested, put it on the MCPCB

solder the Aux pads + and -, add optic to the light then screw down bezel with lens

(The picture shows v1.5 with green/pink build for 1mA max current and a 0 Ohm resistor, higher value like 1-5k can make the board significant dimmer)

bmengineer
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How are these wired up?

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

TrueRMS
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Is LVP one stage or two?

What i mean by “one or two stages” is this: are these like your other aux boards where they have regular colors above x volts, red between X and Y voltage and then all off below Z volts? Or are they simple on if above X volts and off below that point?

Lexel
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bmengineer wrote:
How are these wired up?

see post 4

TrueRMS wrote:
Is LVP one stage or two?

What I mean by “one or two stages” is this: are these like your other aux boards where they have regular colors above x volts, red between X and Y voltage and then all off below Z volts? Or are they simple on if above X volts and off below that point?

LVP means
with aux board directly connected to the battery voltage
- above 2.93V all LEDs on
- below 2.93V all LEDs off

If the MCU is used add 0.35V from the reverse polarity protection diode

KawiBoy1428
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Incoming PM….for 2 please…thanks!

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Lexel
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contactcr wrote:
I feel like this board needs a flow chart to even understand the options, lol. Is this accurate?


I have shown the full modding guide with flashing that should be easily be done if the right equipment is available

not quite right
if with or without LDO color mixing is always possible
each LED has an individual resistor, the LDO can be replaced with a 0603 resistor, the LVP chip bridged with pads below it

- version with LDO → High/low not possible
- version with LVP → High/low not possible
→ flash #define INDICATOR_LED_SKIP_LOW setting as well

LDO → constant brightness and color mix over full battery voltage
LVP → shuts down when battery low (2.93V without MCU, 3.3V with MCU used)

I plan a version that allows LVP and high/low, but this means a 3. wire for the aux board
this will be then v2.0

contactcr
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If it’s controlled by MCU does it also have OFF? Also, with it wired this way can I also re-flash the firmware while aux board is connected?

If I want 1 or 2 color + MCU (low/high/off) it’s only 1 possible option right?

trakcon
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This is fantastic! I have questions, though. Forgive me if they seem elementary.

1:
If I wanted the same colors in the prototype (yellow, ice blue, and pink??), with matched brightness, and LVP, would I choose 1.7?

2:
Then, I can choose to either have the MCU control them or battery voltage. Since LVP doesn’t support high/low, is the difference:
- MCU: aux board turns off when main LEDs are on?
- battery voltage: aux is always on?

3:
To use battery voltage control, it says to bridge MCPCB+ to the aux+. Do I just connect a very small wire from the MCPCB to the aux board? In that case, it seems nothing gets soldered to the driver and the driver doesn’t really need to be removed. Is that correct?

Edit: I just realized this would result in the aux board ONLY being on when the main emitters were on, so I guess the bridge needs to be from driver+ to aux+? Where on the driver should this bridge wire attach?

4:
If I wanted the aux LED brightness to be the same as a D4S with cyan aux on the low setting, how would I specify that?

Thanks so much!
Mike

Lexel
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contactcr wrote:
If it’s controlled by MCU does it also have OFF? Also, with it wired this way can I also re-flash the firmware while aux board is connected?

If I want 1 or 2 color + MCU (low/high/off) it’s only 1 possible option right?

MCU has always ON/OFF/Beacon
the simple solution is connected to battery voltage and always ON

Gen1.0 also supports LOW similar to Emisar aux board with one 0603 resistor to adjust brightness,
but in addition each LED has a balance resistor to mix colors

LVP or LDO are not compatible with LOW setting

I am not sure if the input cap of the LDO lets you flash the MCU when there is no LVP or if the LVP chip is there
but to flash the driver you have to disassemble it anyway so the question does not make practical sense

trakcon wrote:
This is fantastic! I have questions, though. Forgive me if they seem elementary.

1:
If I wanted the same colors in the prototype (yellow, ice blue, and pink??), with matched brightness, and LVP, would I choose 1.7?

2:
Then, I can choose to either have the MCU control them or battery voltage. Since LVP doesn’t support high/low, is the difference:
- MCU: aux board turns off when main LEDs are on?
- battery voltage: aux is always on?

3:
To use battery voltage control, it says to bridge MCPCB+ to the aux+. Do I just connect a very small wire from the MCPCB to the aux board? In that case, it seems nothing gets soldered to the driver and the driver doesn’t really need to be removed. Is that correct?

Edit: I just realized this would result in the aux board ONLY being on when the main emitters were on, so I guess the bridge needs to be from driver+ to aux+? Where on the driver should this bridge wire attach?

4:
If I wanted the aux LED brightness to be the same as a D4S with cyan aux on the low setting, how would I specify that?

Thanks so much!
Mike

1. Prototype uses warm white not yellow, as its way more efficient
you can use v1.7 for LVP and constant brightness independent of battery voltage,
but also without the LDO the colors get matched pretty good by the balance resistors,
but a slight shift can be seen over the battery voltage, most important is without LDO the LEDs get dimmer with drained cell voltage

2. Yes Aux board has to be flashed OFF when main LEDs are on, as it doesn’t support the aux ramping (only v1.0 works with low and ramp, but it makes no sense)
On battery aux LEDs are always on, not a big problem with low brightness, if you run them with 1mA or so it will be relative bright compared to moonlight

3. you always need to get ground to the board to run it, you can use + from the MCPCB,
but ground needs to be pulled from driver or the flashlight body
You can solder + to red MCPCB wire and ground to the plane I scraped off the paint next to the AMC, or solder directly on the AMC fin

trakcon
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Thanks for the reply, Lexel. I think I want high/low capability, which means Gen 1. I keep my batteries charged so not having LDO and LVP is ok.

With Gen 1, can I get low and high brightness similar to low and high on a cyan D4S?

I am able to flash Anduril, but I’m not set up for compiling. Would someone be able to post both the regular and 219B hex files with the changes already made for the aux board?

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trakcon wrote:
Thanks for the reply, Lexel. I think I want high/low capability, which means Gen 1. I keep my batteries charged so not having LDO and LVP is ok.

With Gen 1, can I get low and high brightness similar to low and high on a cyan D4S?

I am able to flash Anduril, but I’m not set up for compiling. Would someone be able to post both the regular and 219B hex files with the changes already made for the aux board?

D4S uses a fairly high brightness, I would reach about the same with “2mA” setting

trakcon
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Actually, I’d be ok with the high being a little dimmer than the D4S high.

I’d like the low to be about the same as the D4S low, though. I use it on my nightstand facing the bed. Is that possible?

I realize I’ve been occupying your sales thread. We can move to PM if you like.

Lexel
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trakcon wrote:
Actually, I’d be ok with the high being a little dimmer than the D4S high.

I’d like the low to be about the same as the D4S low, though. I use it on my nightstand facing the bed. Is that possible?

I realize I’ve been occupying your sales thread. We can move to PM if you like.

low is always based mainly on the internal pull up resistor in the MCU, nothing you can change there

selection guide added

I also compiled hex files for the FW3A, but they are untested yet
It’s not stock Anduril there are some changes
http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/FW3A/Anduril_aux.zip

TrueRMS
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Payment sent for two v1.7 boards. Thank you Lexel!

MikeMacD
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Lexel, the link to the zipped hex file you mentioned previously says “File Not Found”.

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updated
a few shippings today

f0xx
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Thank you Lexel! I’m excited to install them when they arrive.

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This looks awesome. It may be enough to convince me to learn to flash my board.

Lexel
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dragunbayne wrote:
This looks awesome. It may be enough to convince me to learn to flash my board.

flashing is just the top end mod, you can simply put it on the battery as always ON

dragunbayne
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If I do it that way will it affect the tint of my light?

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dragunbayne wrote:
If I do it that way will it affect the tint of my light?
the Aux LEDS mainly light outside the beam angle of the regular LEDs and only with very low brightness

you won’t see it at distances above 20cm even on Moonlight

dragunbayne
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Lexel wrote:
dragunbayne wrote:
If I do it that way will it affect the tint of my light?
the Aux LEDS mainly light outside the beam angle of the regular LEDs and only with very low brightness

you won’t see it at distances above 20cm even on Moonlight

Awesome, thanks. I will be ordering.

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Edit; posting my final changes now that Lexel has replied:

cfg-fw3a.h ADD TO END

Quote:

// the button lights up
#define USE_INDICATOR_LED
// the aux LEDs are behind the main LEDs
#ifdef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING
#undef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING
#endif
// enable blinking indicator LED while off
#define TICK_DURING_STANDBY
#define STANDBY_TICK_SPEED 3 // every 0.128 s
#define USE_FANCIER_BLINKING_INDICATOR
#define INDICATOR_LED_DEFAULT_MODE ((3<

hwdef-FW3A.h ADD/CHANGE

Quote:

//#ifndef VISION_PIN
//#define VISION_PIN PB2 // pin 7, optic nerve
//#define ADC_CHANNEL 0×01 // MUX 01 corresponds with PB2
//#define ADC_DIDR ADC1D // Digital input disable bit corresponding with PB2
//#endif
#define ADC_PRSCL 0×06 // clk/64

#ifndef AUXLED_PIN
#define AUXLED_PIN PB2 // pin 7
#endif

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contactcr wrote:
Can you post the changes you made to the HWDEF file in addition to the rest? I am able to compile my own so I just want to edit what is necessary without using the hex files.

Example (I will edit/delete this when you reply)

cfg-fw3a.h ADD

Quote:

// the button lights up
#define USE_INDICATOR_LED
// the aux LEDs are behind the main LEDs
#ifdef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING
#undef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING
#endif
// enable blinking indicator LED while off
#define TICK_DURING_STANDBY
#define STANDBY_TICK_SPEED 3 // every 0.128 s
#define USE_FANCIER_BLINKING_INDICATOR
#define INDICATOR_LED_DEFAULT_MODE ((3<

hwdef-FW3A.h ADD/REMOVE

Quote:
???

same as any other Aux HWdef, but you need to disable the optic nerve

//#ifndef VISION_PIN
//#define VISION_PIN PB2 // pin 7, optic nerve
//#define ADC_CHANNEL 0×01 // MUX 01 corresponds with PB2
//#define ADC_DIDR ADC1D // Digital input disable bit corresponding with PB2
#define ADC_PRSCL 0×06 // clk/64

// has a lighted button
#ifndef AUXLED_PIN
#define AUXLED_PIN PB2 // pin 7
#endif

contactcr
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Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.


dragunbayne
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Looks really good contactcr! I think I will end up going green. I just can’t decide between 0.3mA and 0.15mA.

I sorta regret getting my glow gasket since I’ve seen this. xD

KevinZA1988
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Nice… I seriously need to learn how to flash firmware.

Astrolux SC01, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Nice… I seriously need to learn how to flash firmware.

Not terribly difficult once you have the software installed and the hardware to do a flash. I hear most people have more trouble getting the Windows drivers sorted for the USBasp. I use Linux, and it is a breeze.

What kind of computer do you have available?

The more difficult part here is modifying the Anduril code before flashing it. I haven’t tried that yet, but I have 2 Lexel boards coming. I will see if I can write up a guide or something once I do one successfully.

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