AA Flashlights - "Cockroach" / "Vampire" / "Drain-me-till-I'm-empty"

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MascaratumB
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AA Flashlights - "Cockroach" / "Vampire" / "Drain-me-till-I'm-empty"

So, my quest(ion) is about long lasting AA flashlights!

The ones that we put 1 or 2 alkalines inside and it will drain it until there’s no juice left.

Not more than 1-2 modes, the ones we should have at home for when the power is out and there’s no new about when it will return!

Something like the Sofirn C01 – maybe? – but with AA batteries!

What flashlights do we have in this category?

Thanks in advance Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Tumbleweed48
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I don’t know what’s available now, but I did build several on some EOSLamp drivers I got from Intl-Outdoors a few years back. They’ll run on 1xAA or 2 NimH, but they over-amp on 2 alkalines and the modes misbehave.

These are low-mid-high, always start on low. When the battery is nearing empty, they have the odd quality of ‘fluttering’ like a candle in the wind. If you drop to medium, they smooth out for another half hour or so, then begin to ‘flutter’ again until you drop to low, where they’ll take every last electron.

I like them because they give you plenty of warning to change the cell instead of suddenly going off. I’ve been keeps my my eyes open for some more, but I think they’re no longer available. EOSLamp also produces (or did produce) complete lights however, so perhaps their complete lights behave the same way.

dealgrabber2002
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I’ve been looking for one since Fenix E01 came out. I hope Sofirn would do a run like the C01.

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Inland R22 from Microcenter, ‘though that’s a local(ish) chain-store.

That’s my bobofett light that wrings out the last bits of juice and pulp from alkaleaks, that you really have to inspect the cell nightly to make sure it isn’t starting to leak.

3bux: https://www.microcenter.com/product/486512/inland-r22-1w-led-flashlight

8bux: https://www.amazon.com/Inland-LED-Flashlight-Watt-Black/dp/B01G0M6TUG

(c&p the amazon link as it looks “broken” on display)

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Lightbringer
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Oh yeah, also fits 20mm TIR lenses nicely.

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MascaratumB
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Tumbleweed48 wrote:
I don’t know what’s available now, but I did build several on some EOSLamp drivers I got from Intl-Outdoors a few years back. They’ll run on 1xAA or 2 NimH, but they over-amp on 2 alkalines and the modes misbehave.

These are low-mid-high, always start on low. When the battery is nearing empty, they have the odd quality of ‘fluttering’ like a candle in the wind. If you drop to medium, they smooth out for another half hour or so, then begin to ‘flutter’ again until you drop to low, where they’ll take every last electron.

I like them because they give you plenty of warning to change the cell instead of suddenly going off. I’ve been keeps my my eyes open for some more, but I think they’re no longer available. EOSLamp also produces (or did produce) complete lights however, so perhaps their complete lights behave the same way.


Thanks for your reply Wink I was searching for those lights but it seems they are really discontinued! Do you know how much would they “last” if when they are in the lowest setting? And also, if there was any “severe” drop even on low when they are almost empty?

dealgrabber2002 wrote:
I’ve been looking for one since Fenix E01 came out. I hope Sofirn would do a run like the C01.

That is my hope too, to get an AA flashlight in the style of C01. It may be a little thicker but the AA will surely give more juice to the flashlight, even at the same or little higher output level. I am not sure if Sofirn will be willing to do that, though Oops

Lightbringer wrote:
Inland R22 from Microcenter, ‘though that’s a local(ish) chain-store.

That’s my bobofett light that wrings out the last bits of juice and pulp from alkaleaks, that you really have to inspect the cell nightly to make sure it isn’t starting to leak.

3bux: https://www.microcenter.com/product/486512/inland-r22-1w-led-flashlight

8bux: https://www.amazon.com/Inland-LED-Flashlight-Watt-Black/dp/B01G0M6TUG

(c&p the amazon link as it looks “broken” on display)


Well, having to inspect it every night would be troublesome, but I het your point Wink
Still, I guess I would prefer a “tube” light, twisty more or less like the C01. Also, I’m afraid I can’t get those Inland lights even from amazon, so I will probably need to find widely available flashlights (aka China lights).

Thanks for the answers so far and I’ll be looking for more suggestions Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

buck91
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How about something like the maratac aa? Mine just arrived so maybe after I get my fill of fiddling with it I’ll pop a fresh lsd nimh cell in and do a low mode runtime test

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buck91 wrote:
How about something like the maratac aa? Mine just arrived so maybe after I get my fill of fiddling with it I’ll pop a fresh lsd nimh cell in and do a low mode runtime test

Looking forward to your report

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MascaratumB
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buck91 wrote:
How about something like the maratac aa? Mine just arrived so maybe after I get my fill of fiddling with it I’ll pop a fresh lsd nimh cell in and do a low mode runtime test

Thank you buck91! In case you can do it, I’ll be glad to hear your results! The Maratac is not as cheap as other lights mentioned but in case it proves to be a “vampire” light, I may check on that Wink
Thanks again!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

buck91
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No sweat, looking forward to finding out myself. I feel like low is t very low with a fresh cell but maybe it tapers nicely.

Henk4U2
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When going on a holiday my wife puts a lot of stuff like E-toothbrush etc. in her suitcase.
As well as an alarm clock and an emergency radio that we never use at home.
But in stead of taking with her some spare batteries, she puts fresh batteries in all these devices.
So I have a box full of used AA batteries, ranging from almost depleted to almost full.
And the only device in our house that runs on AA batteries is the kitchen clock.
I’m looking for a light like this myself to burn away the energy that’s still left in those batteries.
The alternative is bringing useful expensive energy to the recycling.

PS. circuits/drivers like the ones we are looking for are also called: Joule Thief.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

MascaratumB
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Henk4U2 wrote:
When going on a holiday my wife puts a lot of stuff like E-toothbrush etc. in her suitcase.
As well as an alarm clock and an emergency radio that we never use at home.
But in stead of taking with her some spare batteries, she puts fresh batteries in all these devices.
So I have a box full of used AA batteries, ranging from almost depleted to almost full.
And the only device in our house that runs on AA batteries is the kitchen clock.
I’m looking for a light like this myself to burn away the energy that’s still left in those batteries.
The alternative is bringing useful expensive energy to the recycling.

PS. circuits/drivers like the ones we are looking for are also called: Joule Thief.

Besides the importance of having a light like this for whenever it is needed, that was precisely one of my intentions too, to drain the almost depleted cells I have laying around! I have a bag full of batteries to put to recycle. I’d prefer to drain them before doing that.

And thanks for the info about the driver’s “name” ! Makes sense it is a “thief” Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Lightbringer
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Henk4U2 wrote:
So I have a box full of used AA batteries, ranging from almost depleted to almost full.

And the only device in our house that runs on AA batteries is the kitchen clock.

I’m looking for a light like this myself to burn away the energy that’s still left in those batteries.

That’s what I use my bobofett light for (the Inland). If I go to the can at night, I’ll tailstand it so that with its faint glow from an otherwise dead alkaleak, I’ll have juuuust enough light to navigate my way back.

Do gotta watch ‘em, as once the alkaleak does what they do best, you gotta scrub the light’s innards to undo the mess.

When mum uses those crappy triple-AAA lights, I end up with a pile of ‘em at 1.1V or so. So I’ll wrap the ass end of the cell with Al foil as a drip-tray, toss a small ball of Al-foil to make up the difference in height, and use that ‘til it won’t light up anymore, making sure to keep the light shiny-side-up.

 

And again, I can’t stress this enough… when the cells get that dead, is when they’re most prone to leak their caustic bile all over your light’s innards.

 

I cut got a length of PVC tube which’d fit AAs and AAAs, where I was planning to stack 3-4 cells, and run ‘em down DDing an LED star. Brighter light, who cares if they leak if I give ‘em a foil-wrap anyway, and use bare wire as contacts (corroded? snip! problem solved…).

Whichever cell’s weakest and/or leaking, pop it out and replace with another. Rinse, repeat.

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Lightbringer
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MascaratumB wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
PS. circuits/drivers like the ones we are looking for are also called: Joule Thief.
And thanks for the info about the driver’s “name” ! Makes sense it is a “thief” Wink

It’s a play on words, viz, “jewel thief”, only “joule” as in energy vs “jewel” as in gems.

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buck91
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Starting Maratac AA titanium Nichia 219B Rev 2 test now. Amaloop 1900mah on Low mode (maratac rates this at 5 lumens for 75 hours).

MascaratumB
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buck91 wrote:
Starting Maratac AA titanium Nichia 219B Rev 2 test now. Amaloop 1900mah on Low mode (maratac rates this at 5 lumens for 75 hours).

Thanks Wink
Let’s see when it ends Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

hank
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I got some 3AA plastic holders with the 9v type connectors attached from Radio Shack and built some of these to drain my weak batteries:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/16442?page=2
Motion Sensitive Piss Light

Using amber LEDs, good for not interrupting sleep, and demanding lower voltage I think than white LEDs.

Kills those alkaline cells dead, dead, dead.

Also works fine on depleted 9v cells down to three or four volts.

Lightbringer
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I always wanted to get something like a cup or ring, use Al foil as the floor for the negative ends, more Al foil with something squishy behind it to make contact with an assload of parallelled alkaleaks, just to get the lowest resistance to fire up a JT circuit right down to a fractional-volt. Maybe a bypass cap to act as a stiffener. Then, let the whole damned pile leak over themselves and each other, and toss the whole bunch after.

That would make a pretty good nightlight. One cell at 0.8V would sag pretty badly under even that miniscule load, but 10-15 cells in parallel? LOL

Burn off a whole bunch overnight, lighting up a walkway, a “don’t block the driveway, hoser!” sign, whatever.

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Gerber Infinity Ultra is a guaranteed vampire – I have several as proof, and a few still in sealed pkgs.


Features Ultra-bright white LED has 30-foot range. Patented circuitry boosts battery time and brightness. 100-hr burn time, 25-hr peak brightness. 5mm LED delivers 100,000-hr operating life. crush-proof aluminum body with anodized finish. Water-proof to 30 feet and completely weather resistant. Rotary tailcap twist switch. Rear lanyard hole in tail cap cone.. Weighs 2.2 ounces with battery. 3.215 inches long. metal detachable pocket clip. Lifetime limited warranty from Gerber Legendary Blades.

The type M series are rugged military-grade versions. M series lights have a military-grade hard-anodize finish. Double o-rings and sealed circuit board ignore wetness.

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I have a Nitecore MT22A. I like it a lot. It gets lots of use. 3 modes, 1 lumen, 45 lumen, and 260 lument, 180 hours on low, 18 hours on mid, and 2 hours and 15 minutes on high. AA only, no 14500 for this light. Gave on to the neighbor kid. He uses it in his pool all the time. Thing just keeps on working. He has had it through the washer and dryer. It’s still working.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

buck91
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16 Aug 2135hrs:

buck91 wrote:
Starting Maratac AA titanium Nichia 219B Rev 2 test now. Amaloop 1900mah on Low mode (maratac rates this at 5 lumens for 75 hours).

Well just got home from a walk and breakfast at the neighborhood eatery and its dead. Cycling the twisty will get the LED to flash on and fade out immediately. I’m wondering if somehow I grabbed a partially/mostly drained battery! I will recharge and repeat soon!

buck91
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OK, test two starting. Same cells, AmazonBasics “amaloop” 1900mah Made in Japan. Different individual cell, topped up on a Sony dv/dt smart 1×4 channel charger immediately prior to beginning test. Modes look the same as before. We will see if this lasts any longer.

EDCba
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Henk4U2 wrote:
When going on a holiday my wife puts a lot of stuff like E-toothbrush etc. in her suitcase.
As well as an alarm clock and an emergency radio that we never use at home.
But in stead of taking with her some spare batteries, she puts fresh batteries in all these devices.
So I have a box full of used AA batteries, ranging from almost depleted to almost full.
And the only device in our house that runs on AA batteries is the kitchen clock.
I’m looking for a light like this myself to burn away the energy that’s still left in those batteries.
The alternative is bringing useful expensive energy to the recycling.

PS. circuits/drivers like the ones we are looking for are also called: Joule Thief.

Hmm this is like my situation too. But like Lightbringer says, discharging them all the way makes them leak, which is not worth the effort / environmental impact to keep cleaning up. So I’m thinking of those exposed plastic trays which are much easier to clean.

EDCba
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timbo114 wrote:
Gerber Infinity Ultra is a guaranteed vampire – I have several as proof, and a few still in sealed pkgs.


Features Ultra-bright white LED has 30-foot range. Patented circuitry boosts battery time and brightness. 100-hr burn time, 25-hr peak brightness. 5mm LED delivers 100,000-hr operating life. crush-proof aluminum body with anodized finish. Water-proof to 30 feet and completely weather resistant. Rotary tailcap twist switch. Rear lanyard hole in tail cap cone.. Weighs 2.2 ounces with battery. 3.215 inches long. metal detachable pocket clip. Lifetime limited warranty from Gerber Legendary Blades.

The type M series are rugged military-grade versions. M series lights have a military-grade hard-anodize finish. Double o-rings and sealed circuit board ignore wetness.

I was going to suggest this, but don’t know how low they can discharge to. Mine is the first CMG version.

buck91
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buck91 wrote:
OK, test two starting. Same cells, AmazonBasics “amaloop” 1900mah Made in Japan. Different individual cell, topped up on a Sony dv/dt smart 1×4 channel charger immediately prior to beginning test. Modes look the same as before. We will see if this lasts any longer.

Dang, almost the same results! As of 0600 this morning light was out when I woke up. Going to reach out to county comm and see if they think it’s a bad light or not.

sbslider
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@buck91, two things. CountyComm is notorious for putting much longer run times than reality in their product descriptions. Second, a non rechargable alkaline battery should last 50% longer or more due to greater capacity at that current level. BTW, are you able to measure the current with a meter?

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

jon_slider
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buck91 wrote:
Dang, almost the same results!

so, was that 15 hours?
maybe the 75 hour spec was a typo?

move along, this is not the Roach you were looking for Smile

sbslider wrote:
a non rechargable alkaline battery should last 50% longer

CountyRoaches are overrated
fwiw the 75 hour claim was “Using A Single Duracell AA battery”

fwiw, the Tool AA claims 7 lumens for 30 hours on eneloop and 36 hours on Alkaleak… iow, 20% longer, not 50%

I suspect a similar driver is in the Maratac AA, but I think county com requested a 12 lumen low..

in any case, Maratacs are nice, if you dont get hung up on runtime and output specs.. Ccomm site has a lot of advertising baloney.. I just carry a spare battery..

more info, mentions PWM back in 2016…

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If you want long run time, you’re probably better off buying a light that has the best efficiency, and not worrying too much about draining the last 1% out of your battery.

I did some run-time tests on the Zebralight SC52 and SC52w a few years ago. They’re 1xAA lights. On a standard Eneloop (1900mAh), using the brightest moonlight mode (0.3 lumens?), they lasted almost 2 weeks. An alkaline should get about 3 weeks on that, regulated at 0.3 lumens. On the lower moonlight modes, that should be about 3 months.

It stops when then battery is at about 0.8 volts. But, so what? Your battery is 99% empty. Why worry about the last 1%, if the light you’re using isn’t as efficient? Even if your light is 90% as efficient, your run time will be ( (0.9 × 0.99) + 0.01 ) = 0.901 times as long.

buck91
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So the Maratac is a huge let down. County Comm is blaming the enelope/amalope as the reason staying longer runtime off alkaline. But of course when I’m getting less than 30% advertised runtimes with new, charges, quality cells I find it hard to believe an alkaleak will show that much improvement. Combined with the higher output on low and lower output on high than advertised and I will be looking elsewhere for a aa roach! Too bad… light is fantastic if the driver was better. Maybe a good candidate for a mod but single AA drivers are few and far between.

sbslider
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AA Alkaline batteries have 3000mAhr compared to the 1900mAhr cells you tried. Also, they start at a much higher voltage, which MAY result in less current demand, if the low mode is regulated. Even so, I imagine you will not get the advertised run time, even with an alkaline cell.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

timbo114
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Would using Energizer Ultimate lithium cells make for a truer test down to a dead cell?

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