AA Flashlights - "Cockroach" / "Vampire" / "Drain-me-till-I'm-empty"

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jon_slider
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buck91 wrote:
Maybe a good candidate for a mod but single AA drivers are few and far between.

I understand the Maratac AA is no CockRoach
but I hope you dont throw out the baby with the bathwater

different lights have different pros and cons
your maratac has a lot of other things going for it, that cockroaches dont have

I think trying to reconcile specs and real runtimes, is the road to dissapointment, and you have not yet tried an alkaleak or lithium primary, the latter might cheer you up a bit Smile

as far as drivers.. a Reylight might interest you

apology for the non cockroach hijack

now back to your regularly scheduled, single mode, super dim, practically useless amount of light, unless youre trying to live in a cave after a nuclear holocaust, cockroach thread… Silly

buck91
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Well it’s really a combination of the rather bright low mode along with the rather dim high mode. I purchased a light rated at 75hrs low and 235 lumens high and received neither. Pretty disappointed. Compared to my reylight from mass drop or my lumintops from AE which appear at least close to spec.

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Lightbringer wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
PS. circuits/drivers like the ones we are looking for are also called: Joule Thief.
And thanks for the info about the driver’s “name” ! Makes sense it is a “thief” Wink

It’s a play on words, viz, “jewel thief”, only “joule” as in energy vs “jewel” as in gems.

Ahah, I get it Big Smile And now that I saw this, I remember reading that in a thread some time ago ! Hence recalling that info Wink

timbo114 wrote:
Gerber Infinity Ultra is a guaranteed vampire – I have several as proof, and a few still in sealed pkgs.


Hum, this would be a nice solution! 100hr brightness would be amazing for this type of light!
If I understand correctly, they are not sold anymore, are they? The robustness and draining capacity would certainly be the more important things to have on it!

toddcshoe wrote:
I have a Nitecore MT22A. I like it a lot. It gets lots of use. 3 modes, 1 lumen, 45 lumen, and 260 lument, 180 hours on low, 18 hours on mid, and 2 hours and 15 minutes on high. AA only, no 14500 for this light. Gave on to the neighbor kid. He uses it in his pool all the time. Thing just keeps on working. He has had it through the washer and dryer. It’s still working.

Is this a “robust” light? Meaning , with the plastic body, is it capable of taking “some beats”? Seems a good option, although different from a “vampire” light!!

WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
If you want long run time, you’re probably better off buying a light that has the best efficiency, and not worrying too much about draining the last 1% out of your battery.

I did some run-time tests on the Zebralight SC52 and SC52w a few years ago. They’re 1xAA lights. On a standard Eneloop (1900mAh), using the brightest moonlight mode (0.3 lumens?), they lasted almost 2 weeks. An alkaline should get about 3 weeks on that, regulated at 0.3 lumens. On the lower moonlight modes, that should be about 3 months.

It stops when then battery is at about 0.8 volts. But, so what? Your battery is 99% empty. Why worry about the last 1%, if the light you’re using isn’t as efficient? Even if your light is 90% as efficient, your run time will be ( (0.9 × 0.99) + 0.01 ) = 0.901 times as long.


Funny thing you mentioned this! I was thinking about that too! Recently I received the Skilhunt M150 that supposedly lasts 55 days on the lowest setting with a 2450 mAh Ni-MH battery! So I guess that fits the “regulated” and runtime, but this is not the same type of light as that Gerber or a Sofin C01. Meaning, it is not a cheap robust light that you will be able to use with single mode and also when you don’t have a charger, relying then only on Alkalines.

But your input matches my latest thinking when buck91 started the test on the Maratac!

buck91 wrote:
So the Maratac is a huge let down. County Comm is blaming the enelope/amalope as the reason staying longer runtime off alkaline. But of course when I’m getting less than 30% advertised runtimes with new, charges, quality cells I find it hard to believe an alkaleak will show that much improvement. Combined with the higher output on low and lower output on high than advertised and I will be looking elsewhere for a aa roach! Too bad… light is fantastic if the driver was better. Maybe a good candidate for a mod but single AA drivers are few and far between.

Thanks for testing it! And I’m sorry they “let you down” with those specs. I guess this last sentence may resume it all Oops

timbo114 wrote:
Would using Energizer Ultimate lithium cells make for a truer test down to a dead cell?

These are not rechargeable, are they? Says 20years shelf life Shocked And leak proof Big Smile
jon_slider wrote:
now back to your regularly scheduled, single mode, super dim, practically useless amount of light, unless youre trying to live in a cave after a nuclear holocaust, cockroach thread… Silly

Ahah, jon, that sense of humour Big Smile When were going to the boundaries on the top edge of illumination (100000 lumens) why not dig the lowest edge too? Wink

BTW, if that cockroach has +90CRI, wouldn’t you like it too? Silly

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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timbo114
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Gerber Infinity Ultra is available in quite sparse amounts on the interweb.

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A few years ago I ran a test with my Thrunite Archer A1 V3 in firefly mode, which is advertised below a lumen. I got 21 days on an alkaline battery. I must have has more spare time then, as I measured the battery voltage and current twice a day and recorded the data.

The battery ran down to 0.88V before the light came out of regulation, and I stopped the test then. My TH20 I tested with a power supply, and it was regulated down to 0.3V.

These regulated lights don’t do as well with being vampire lights, as the current demand goes up as the voltage goes down to stay in regulation. Simple resistor regulated lights do better as vampires, or the are some “joule theif” circuits that are even better than a resistor.

I’ currently running my Rofis R2 AA light with an alkaline battery, I think its 4 days in so far. The currents a bit higher than the Thrunite Archer A1 V3, I’m expecting maybe 1/2 the run time or less.

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MascaratumB wrote:
if that cockroach has +90CRI, wouldn’t you like it too?

definitely, that is why I have a C01 w 5600k Yuji on my modding visor:

I respect your quest for an AA version

which are your top 2 so far?
and how low do you go, in lumens, before you dont count it as practical

my aaa thrunite has a respectable 0.09 lm low.. at that level, my vision is scotopic and it makes no difference what the tint or CRI is.. I cant see colors at that level

so, if you want to have a high CRI cockroach, what is the minimum lumen level at which we can still see colors, and withing what distance do we want to be able to see, just in front of our nose, or just in front of our feet…?:-)

scotopic light level depends on target distance also.. for example at 0.1 lumens I can see high CRI red color at a distance of 1 foot or less, but at 5 feet I cannot see the object is red, it just looks dark brown, like it does with a low cri source

Im not really clear what the following quote means.. but maybe it helps others learn more about scotopic levels

https://docs.agi32.com/AGi32/Content/references/Photopic_Mesopic_Scotopi...

Scotopic: This term refers to rod vision and corresponds to an adaptation level below 0.01 cd/m2. The peak sensitivity of the rods is at 507 nm, in the blue-green part of the visible spectrum. (See blue curve in figure.) While there may be some (very little) cone activity at 0.01 cd/m2, once the light level drops to 0.001 cd/m2, only the rods are active.

At this point, the ability to discern colors is gone. In addition, since there are no rods at the fovea and the cones there are not receiving enough light to be stimulated, the ability to discern fine details is gone.

This light level is what you will find on a moonless night out in the desert, far from any town or highway luminaires. … With light only from the stars overhead, you will be able to see large objects like boulders and shrubs and perhaps a rabbit scampering by. But no colors, and you can’t read the newspaper!

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timbo114 wrote:
Gerber Infinity Ultra is available in quite sparse amounts on the interweb.

I know! Saw a few on Ebay but I was not even sure if I would receive one with wear and tear on it.

Fortunately my younger brother is coming over from Canada soon and has bought one for me HERE. !

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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Henk4U2 you’ll love it.
Built like a tank.

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Henk4U2 wrote:
timbo114 wrote:
Gerber Infinity Ultra is available in quite sparse amounts on the interweb.

I know! Saw a few on Ebay but I was not even sure if I would receive one with wear and tear on it.

Fortunately my younger brother is coming over from Canada soon and has bought one for me HERE. !

!{width:50%}https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/411IGrbbdEL.SX355.jpg!

$30…. ouch

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timbo114 wrote:
Henk4U2 you’ll love it.
Built like a tank.

They also have one of the smoothest tail cap twisty on and off’s you’ll ever use. Very fine threads with good machining.
Not easy to get apart but can be modded with a better led.
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Henk4U2 wrote:
my younger brother … has bought one for me
congrats!

buck91 wrote:
$30…. ouch
lol, its only canadian dollars Wink
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does Gerber Infinity Ultra cause alkaline batteries to leak?

also at what voltage can it drain to?

Nico -.-

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Nicolicous wrote:

does Gerber Infinity Ultra cause alkaline batteries to leak?

Good question!

I don't know the real answer, but I would guess that alkaleaks will gladly leak in anything you put them in.

Just a guess, though.  :THUMBS-UP:

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They’re hateful little things. They’ll leak just for spite.

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Build my AA vampire light from plumbing parts a year ago. All fit in nicely althought it’s heavy due to brass.

It glow around 5 lumens and run about a month with full AA battery until they battery is completely dead.

Would love to find lighter version for EDC.

Tail stand

forward clicky switch

head stand

Nico -.-

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Nicolicous wrote:

Build my AA vampire light from plumbing parts a year ago. All fit in nicely althought it’s heavy due to brass.

It glow around 5 lumens and run about a month with full AA battery until they battery is completely dead.

Would love to find lighter version for EDC.

Tail stand

forward clicky switch

head stand

I like it!

It kinda has a steampunk vibe.

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buck91 wrote:
$30…. ouch

PP fees included that is a fraction under €26 at AMZ CA..
Which is a lot better than the amount I was contemplating the time that Gerber was on AMZ DE .

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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and a alkaleak will just improve the patina.
verdigris by duraleak!

Nicolicous wrote:
Build my AA vampire light from plumbing parts a year ago. All fit in nicely althought it’s heavy due to brass.

It glow around 5 lumens and run about a month with full AA battery until they battery is completely dead.

Would love to find lighter version for EDC.

Tail stand

forward clicky switch

head stand
!{width:85%}https://i.imgur.com/CauiFsg.jpg!

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timbo114 wrote:
Gerber Infinity Ultra is available in quite sparse amounts on the interweb.

Thanks for the links timbo114 Wink
Some of them have quite expensive shipping fees (half the price of the light…) but I will see if them!

sbslider wrote:
A few years ago I ran a test with my Thrunite Archer A1 V3 in firefly mode, which is advertised below a lumen. I got 21 days on an alkaline battery. I must have has more spare time then, as I measured the battery voltage and current twice a day and recorded the data.
[…]

Interesting data sbslider! If I may ask, you just left it to run during those days without stopping the test to take some voltage measurements?

I wanna do a test with some of my AA lights, with alkaline batteries inside to see how long they last. The AAA lights I will probably test are Skilhunt M150, Tool AA V2.0, Sofirn SP10A, Manker E11, Wuben E05, and the AAA Sofirn C01.

jon_slider wrote:
definitely, that is why I have a C01 w 5600k Yuji on my modding visor:
[…]
I respect your quest for an AA version

which are your top 2 so far?
and how low do you go, in lumens, before you dont count it as practical

my aaa thrunite has a respectable 0.09 lm low.. at that level, my vision is scotopic and it makes no difference what the tint or CRI is.. I cant see colors at that level

so, if you want to have a high CRI cockroach, what is the minimum lumen level at which we can still see colors, and withing what distance do we want to be able to see, just in front of our nose, or just in front of our feet…?:-)

The C01 in warmer tint is probably my favourite High-CRI light I have! Despite I like the 5600K too!
Having a AA light like that would be the best solution for me in what concerns this quest (durable in host and runtime, single mode, …put it in somewhere and it will last… Silly )
I am comfortable when using a light below 0.5 lumens (I have no way to measure how low in lumens I can go, sorry), so to light something nearby it would not raise many questions. In a night scenario, the RRT01 in its loooow modes is enough for me.

I will have to let the C01 almost drain the battery it has inside for months to see how low I can go before it is not useful anymmore!
I just want a light that could eat the almost depleted batteries and still give some useful amount of light Wink

timbo114 wrote:
[…]Built like a tank.

This Smile
buck91 wrote:
$30…. ouch

But this Sad

Nicolicous wrote:
does Gerber Infinity Ultra cause alkaline batteries to leak?

also at what voltage can it drain to?


Good questions! Also, how low in voltage can an alkaline go before stopping the light from functioning? 0V? Higher?

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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sbslider
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^^ I took the battery out twice a day and measured the battery voltage unloaded, and the current into the light via a tailcap measurement.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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sbslider wrote:
^^ I took the battery out twice a day and measured the battery voltage unloaded, and the current into the light via a tailcap measurement.

Thank you very much for the details! Didn’t have the tailcap measurement in my mind!
I will put the data in an Excel sheet and note down all the aspects I can remember, including these!
Thanks again!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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sbslider
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I’m glad someone finds my methods useful. Thumbs Up

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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I’ve been using my Enogear AA (Stainless Steel) to drain spent alkaleaks (with <1.2 volts) cells from my home electronics (home security alarm panel) and from workplace battery recycle tub.

With a white thread tube the Enogear AA is used as nightstand/night light for my toddler boys. Occasionally I would use the Thrunite T10 Aluminum as a battery vampire (joule thief) also.

With the Enogear on lowest mode, the light will cut out when alkaline AA is about 0.7-0.8 volts (per my Nitecore D4 charger).

I’ve got a thrower, a flooder, and an EDC too. Still looking for a bigger thrower, flooder, and a new EDC, give or take a few. I’m a flashaholic.

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Likely the voltage it cuts out as is even lower. I’ve seen that the voltage out of the cell will go up, sometimes a fair amount at voltages that low, when the load is removed. Would not surprise me if the lights cut out around 0.5V, and by the time the cell is measured its up in the range mentioned.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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Yeh, I got a weird AAA alkaleak in an UltraTac. It’ll light up okay, in a few minutes dim and dim and dim some more ‘til it just cuts out. Turn it off and let it “rest” a while, and it’ll come back on later and repeat the sequence.

Normally, just switch it on a few seconds, and “blink” it off via the switch, and it won’t have enough oomf to start up again.

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i have a nebo 1aa similar to to the csi edge.
a 5mm .5w with no heatsinking.
was a piece of dim blue junk till i installed a nichia 219c.just the led on a cheap mcpcb.
it does not even get warm on a li primary.
hey its not a waste when you have a full reel of them.
anyway i tested some alkaleaks in the c9000 and afterward i wanted to know how much usable energy they had esp after a low rate test.
well cells that were run out at 100 ma ran this for about 6 hours of useful light.
useful as in visible on the bench it was laying on under a bunch of double driven fluorescents.
i let it go overnight and shut it down.
the cell recovered to about .9v and the thing lit and ran 2 more hours till it went to a dim glow.
i have seen several nonames with the guts in a plastic slug like this one.
1 is a “police” from autozone.
its getting a 219c soon as it also seems to be a good battery vampire.

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moderator007 wrote:
timbo114 wrote:
Henk4U2 you’ll love it. Built like a tank.
They also have one of the smoothest tail cap twisty on and off’s you’ll ever use. Very fine threads with good machining. Not easy to get apart but can be modded with a better led.

People have had success with LED swaps in the infinity ultra? I’ll have to see if there are any pics or write ups. With all the warm/neutral and higher cri 5mm options out there that would be pretty sweet!

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buck91 wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
timbo114 wrote:
Henk4U2 you’ll love it. Built like a tank.
They also have one of the smoothest tail cap twisty on and off’s you’ll ever use. Very fine threads with good machining. Not easy to get apart but can be modded with a better led.

People have had success with LED swaps in the infinity ultra? I’ll have to see if there are any pics or write ups. With all the warm/neutral and higher cri 5mm options out there that would be pretty sweet!

Which I’m NOT going to do. Can’t stand the thought I make this one go poof.
It was a gift from my youngest brother, and even Canadian dollars don’t grow on trees.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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sbslider wrote:
A few years ago I ran a test with my Thrunite Archer A1 V3 in firefly mode, which is advertised below a lumen. I got 21 days on an alkaline battery. I must have has more spare time then, as I measured the battery voltage and current twice a day and recorded the data.

The battery ran down to 0.88V before the light came out of regulation, and I stopped the test then. My TH20 I tested with a power supply, and it was regulated down to 0.3V.

These regulated lights don’t do as well with being vampire lights, as the current demand goes up as the voltage goes down to stay in regulation. Simple resistor regulated lights do better as vampires, or the are some “joule theif” circuits that are even better than a resistor.

I’ currently running my Rofis R2 AA light with an alkaline battery, I think its 4 days in so far. The currents a bit higher than the Thrunite Archer A1 V3, I’m expecting maybe 1/2 the run time or less.

I use that that Archer for my kids’ night light. I figure it has at least 7,000 hours run time so far. I actually gave it to my son for his birthday 2 years ago and it’s held up to all the drops and bangs. Impressive.

I also have the TH20 and didn’t realize it will over-discharge batteries. I also love that light. Thrunite hits a certain price/quality sweet spot with the right implementation.

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Hugh Johnson wrote:

I use that that Archer for my kids’ night light. I figure it has at least 7,000 hours run time so far. I actually gave it to my son for his birthday 2 years ago and it’s held up to all the drops and bangs. Impressive.


Wow, that’s a lot of hours. Only 43,000 left until the LED dies.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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