Anyone know what LED this is?
It was in a Duracell Durabeam 300 flashlight that used 4 AAA cells. I am thinking about modding it run on a single 18650 instead.
Thanks BlueSwordM! I’m new here and evidently cannot figure out how to post pics. 
Isn’t that the good old XM-L2?
Can you measure it?
Either XPG2 or XML2 depending on the size.
The driver for the light was in the tail switch which was destroyed trying to remove it, but that was okay because the electronic switch had so much parasitic drain it depleated the batteries in only a month or so. The light seems to have a good reflector and shell so I thought it might be worth the effort to rework the light. I actually have 3 of them but have only worked on one so far. IIRC, the flashlight was rated to be 300 lumen.
i think it’s XP-G2, the resistor is for limiting current, jezz, are they using 0603 resistor on 0805 pad size?
The dome is 3mm and LED within appears to be 2mm. The board itself is about 19mm.
That would probably be the XP-G2 led from Cree (or any other chinese clone).
If it’s an original Cree led than it’s still a good emitter.
There are many single cell drivers available that you can use. But the best option is a driver based off the 7135 chips, they are cheap and come in many different sizes and mode options.
However, since it isn’t mounted on a mcpcb (metal core printed circuit board) (seriously, not even a cheap ass aluminium one??) you’d better of by replacing the led.
If you want to keep the led and still mod it, I would chose a 7135 driver with a max current of 700mA. (will get you around 250 - 300 lumens)
Being that it was powered by AAA’s I would guess it to be an XPG2 as well. They used and still use this type of LED in less expensive lights.
Is there a easy/simple way to determine that it is a Cree?
Thanks for all the info so far!
So should I remove the resistor (shorting the contacts) if I use the aforementioned 7135 driver?
You would have to look up many pictures from a real Cree XP-G2 and a clone one to compare it to yours.
Sometimes it’s easy to see it.
However, nowadays the clone one’s aren’t that bad anymore. They might not be as efficient as a real Cree but they still do perform decent. So I wouldn’t worry about that.
Yes when going with a 7135 driver you would have to remove the resistor and shot the contacts.
I still have my doubts about the thermal management of that pcb and the rest of the light. Hope someone chimes in that can say more about that.
I am seeing the thermal issue you are talking about now. Maybe I just try to find a new tail switch (even a mechanical one) and leave it driven by AAAs. I need to experiment around on it some more…