[review] Wurkkos WK30 white/red/UV light

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Tom E
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I agree with all the above - great updates. I would like to see some improvements in the UI as well:

  • I'd like to see white and red treated equally - last used of white or red is the default for 1 click ON. You can debate about UV, maybe it should also be capable of defaulting.
  • of course I'd like to see smooth ramping, but if not, then do course mode level ramping, like in Anduril, press&hold to ramp, 1 click for OFF
  • 1 click to last used level, press&hold to lowest, maybe keep dbl click and triple click for navigating to the next LED outputs
  • the timing of the current dbl and triple click is a bit rough. I often find I'm not quick enough - I think the tolerances are too tight.

You lose dbl click to max, but max could still be the last used level. Also this keeps it all pretty simple, hopefully easy to understand by most.

Of course for the driver, a triple channel driver like what TA has designed could work, but wire each channel's output separately - the FET for the white, a large 7135 bank for the red, and a small 7135 bank for the UV - it's about a perfect match up. If you have room for a 22 mm driver, which it should, then it should be do-able. This would be a great foundation for BLF modding - add more 7135's for more power, better firmware options, spring bypasses, etc.

I've made cuts and jumpers for converting triple channel BLF drivers to multiple LED outputs (2), and modified NarsilM to work with them - worked out well for my Lumintop EDC Mini II with the side flood LED.

Andybibbville
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This flashlight is so awesome!! It’s so much fun. I wish I would have bought it when I first saw it, but I thought it was a gimmick flashlight. But it’s not.

John 12:46 “I have come into the world as a light, so that no one who believes in me should stay in darkness.” Genesis 1:3 And God said, “Let there be light,” and there was light.
Streamer
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Yep, Glad I got in on one. I’m waiting on the upgrade..I hope.. !!! to get a 2nd.

sb56637
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snovotill wrote:
Parasitic drain measures 31uA and so not bad, so it will take 19 years to flatten the 5AH battery if the battery itself has no leakage.

Nice, thanks a lot for posting this important detail!

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Jackie
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Lightbringer wrote:
aswang wrote:
Like this light a lot. Thanks Lightbringer for reviewing it. Managed to open the bezel with 2 strap wrenches. No heat and just enough force. Seems regular glue was used so a little heat should help. I'm still debating whether to replace the main LED with 4000K 351D and the red to a 2200K 351B. I really don't like red led but might need it someday.
No worries! I *really* like the '351 that's in there now. It's a nice creamy white, lit up everything wonderfully in my skeeter-hunt, and was almost as floody as my Cometa. That candlelight '351 sounds nice, but I've been using red at night for peeking at the clock, etc., to not ruin my night vision. Kinda eerie when I hit it full blast. I feel like a rotisserie chicken. :))

Hahaha.. the red light bring your house more interesting

TexasToasted
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I like all the Version 2 ideas above and would like to add a very strong magnetic tailcap.

MacLee
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

I would appreciate an advanced WK30S with following features:


 


✔ Cree XP-E2 deep red (660nm) instead of XP-E2 red (630nm) to better maintain nightvision capability


✔ LG LEUVA33W70RL00 365nm UV LED instead of LG LEUVA33U70UL00 395nm for more output and more effective UV spectrum (maybe incl. ZWB2 filter)


USB port moved into the thread section between head and battery tube for better ingress protection and less wear & tear with rubber boot and microUSB port


USB-C port with QC 2.0 (18W) charging circuit


✔ knurling on tailcap (and battery tube) for better tactile handling


 


I think this may increase costs by less than $ 10.


Thank you for the suggestions we will consider it seriously ,yes it will cost more if upgrade, so what is the range if for a budget light?
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I’d like the last used default for all , including UV .

Lux-Perpetua
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MacLee wrote:

Thank you for the suggestions we will consider it seriously ,yes it will cost more if upgrade, so what is the range if for a budget light?

That's a very good question indeed - and one that's not easy to answer. Big Smile

Of course, price is important. But it also depends on what you get for the price, i.e. quality, features etc.. The WK30 has with its triple independent emitters - at least for now - a unique selling proposition, so competition is not much of a problem yet. With Sofirn as reputable OEM manufacturer in place, you have a good and reliable partner that BLF members trust.

So, let's do some thinking...

 

UV light

Switching from LG's LEUVA33U70UL00 395nm to LG's LEUVA33W70RL00 365nm seems to be a highly desired and anticipated change for many flashoholics. Additional costs should be more or less neglectible. Be careful with Nichia's 276A as it seems to be more expensive with less overall output (even though it emits less visible stray light). Maybe you can check with Sofirn how reasonable it is to apply a ZWB2 filter in front of the UV LED to filter out visible stray light.

 

Red light

There are many lights with orange-red (620-635nm) out there but real™ red (650nm - 670nm) is to be found very rarely. With regard to eyes' adaptation to darkness and to maintain night vision capability as well as to hunt some animals that do not response to these wavelenghts, deep red is more effective. The correct product bin code is XPEBPR-L1-0000-00D01. For instance, the LED is sold by Cutter Australia (https://www.cutter.com.au/product/xpebpr-l1-0000-00d01/). Mouser only charges € 1,50/LED with an MOQ of 100 pcs (https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/XPEBPR-L1-0000-00D01). So, maybe the deep red version is not more expensive compared to the standard red version.

 

On a side note: While being more effective in terms of night vision capability one needs to consider that the human eye is less responsive to 660nm compared to 630nm. So, the actual perception might be a bit less bright with deep red.

 

Knurling

With some slight changes on CNC machining it should be feasible to add some knurling on the tailcap. In return customers will get a better tactile handling when turning the tailcap to use mechanical lockout or to change the battery.

 

USB port

Using USB-C with QuickCharge 2.0 and moving the port into the thread section of the WK30 will actually drive costs to a higher level. It is questionable if these extra costs will be reasonable with regard to higher sales. However, this might be a nice option or basis for future designs. Sofirn has already integrated an advanced charging circuit into the SP36S (QuickCharge 2.0 capable). Maybe they can reveal some information on how much costs have increased in comparison to the SP36 without QuickCharge 2.0.

 

Personally and general speaking, everything up to $ 50 is what I deem "budget area". I think a markup of let's say $ 5 - 7 might be still acceptable for some more advanced improvements.

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Tom E wrote:

I agree with all the above – great updates. I would like to see some improvements in the UI as well:



  • I’d like to see white and red treated equally – last used of white or red is the default for 1 click ON. You can debate about UV, maybe it should also be capable of defaulting.

  • of course I’d like to see smooth ramping, but if not, then do course mode level ramping, like in Anduril, press&hold to ramp, 1 click for OFF

  • 1 click to last used level, press&hold to lowest, maybe keep dbl click and triple click for navigating to the next LED outputs



I agree with most of this, but I think single click for white and double click for red should stay so that the user can be sure which color they will get when they turn the light on. Hold to change levels and single click for off is more intuitive to me and most people I might hand a flashlight to.

Regarding the changes discussed in other posts, I would like the red and UV LED changes but would be reluctant to pay more for the charging circuit change. I have a nice battery charger and would rather live without built-in charging then pay a lot for it.

Tom E
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Currently the light has mode memory only on white - this may be fine, but it is interesting.

Maybe keep the single click to white, dbl click to red, triple click to UV from OFF, but use the press&hold from OFF to go to the lowest level of last used LED, not just white? I'm just look'n for an easier way to the last used LED - dbl and triple clicks can be tricky. If they made the dbl click timing less aggressive, more like NarsilM or Anduril, there may not be as much reason to work around the dbl click issue.

With this light, I'm inadvertently going into white and bumping it up a level when I really want red.

Unheard
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I think chosing a 365nm UV emitter makes the light much more dangerous. I have a Convoy S2+ UV, and it emits very little visible light. This could lead to someone looking straight into the emitter. I have a lot of respect for ionizing radiation and wouldn’t want such a LED in a multi purpose lamp.

Lux-Perpetua
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Unheard wrote:
I think chosing a 365nm UV emitter makes the light much more dangerous. I have a Convoy S2+ UV, and it emits very little visible light. This could lead to someone looking straight into the emitter. I have a lot of respect for ionizing radiation and wouldn't want such a LED in a multi purpose lamp.

I don't mean to disagree but let me put it this way:

  • Every kind of high energy radiation is harmful to your eyes, even at 395nm. So, you need to protect your eyes anyway - either by wearing protective glasses and/or by not looking into the LED while in operation.
  • The Convoy S2+ probably uses the Nichia 276A which is known to emit very little visible stray light. The LG 365nm LED however is more powerful but also emits more visible stray light. So, people would still see that the WK30 is in UV mode unless there is a ZWB2 filter in place.
  • Wurkkos has implemented a nice blue light indication in the side switch while operating the WK30 in UV mode. So, again - you will be alerted that you are using the UV mode.
  • The manual has been updated and reflects additional safety warnings about using UV light. Everyone owning the WK30 is highly encouraged to read the instructions before using the flashlight.
  • The WK30 does NOT emit ionizing radiation. Ionizing radiation is a whole different thing that carries sufficient energy to detach electrons from atoms or molecules, which only occurs below wavelengths of 250nm. In a nutshell: The WK30 is not an X-ray machine or radioactive flashlight. Wink

Please don't take this as an offence but if we all agreed upon using harmless, non-dangerous flashlights, we would not be having flashlights like Acebeam's W30 or Lumintop's BLF GT today. Using high powered flashlights, regardless if in UV, red or white light spectrum, always comes with a certain amount of responsibility.

Unheard
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:
  • The WK30 does NOT emit ionizing radiation. Ionizing radiation is a whole different thing that carries sufficient energy to detach electrons from atoms or molecules, which only occurs below wavelengths of 250nm. In a nutshell: The WK30 is not an X-ray machine or radioactive flashlight. Wink

  • Have to admit I wasn’t aware of this, so thanks for correcting me here!
    Tom E
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    Pretty good info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionizing_radiation. I work with ionizing radiation a bunch because of the nuclear med equipment we develop. Usually I have 1 or 2 Cs-137 10 uCi button sources and a 0.1 uCi rod source around my desk, but kept in a small lead container.

    I get the nuc safety training once/year to keep us certified - Yes: the 3 biggies: time, distance, shielding (https://www.nrc.gov/about-nrc/radiation/protects-you/protection-principles.html).

     

    Lightbringer
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    Jackie wrote:
    Hahaha.. the red light bring your house more interesting

    I’ll say!

    LOL

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    Lightbringer
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    TexasToasted wrote:
    I like all the Version 2 ideas above and would like to add a very strong magnetic tailcap.

    You don’t (well, I don’t) want to make that a mandatory “feature”, in case you carry magstripe cards anywhere near where you’d be carrying the light. That could be a dealbreaker for a lot of people.

    There are plenty of Nd disc-magnets that can be stuck on with Stoopit-Gloo (and then later removed with a little AcMe to dissolve the glue, if needed), which would fit perfectly in the hollow that’s in the end of the tailcap.

     

    Deep-red… okay, but it won’t appear as visibly bright when driven at the same level as the existing red LED. I’m okay with it as-is, but…

     

    365nm, sure, I could go for that… maybe. More potential to fry eyeballs, though, so warn, warn, warn.

     

    USB-C charging? Meh. I don’t care either way, but now that I got lights that use it, I’m not against it.

     

    Knurling? Nah. I’m guessing there’s some reason there’s no knurling on most diving lights I’ve seen, and I really like the “smooth look” of those and the ’30.

    Maybe a separately-available tailcap and/or tube, then? Just like the come-with and add-on shorty tube for S2+es.

     

    Charging-port moved into the threaded section? If it could be done, great. I’m not a fan of rubber flaps, but, they’re more accessible for The Muggle.

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    Lightbringer
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    Rdubya18 wrote:
    I’d like the last used default for all , including UV .

    That I gotta strongly disagree with. There’s a shortcut to moonlight/low/whatever for white. With none for either of the other modes, I’d rather they default to the lower/lowest mode for the same reason you don’t want to get blasted with a face full of turbo in the middle of the night when going to the can.

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    saypat
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    … there are times when I simply cannot get to the red mode and UV mode, frustrating. That triple click is difficult. Any others have this difficulty? And is it intermittent?

    1332332331
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    Tom E wrote:

    Currently the light has mode memory only on white – this may be fine, but it is interesting.


    Maybe keep the single click to white, dbl click to red, triple click to UV from OFF, but use the press&hold from OFF to go to the lowest level of last used LED, not just white? I’m just look’n for an easier way to the last used LED – dbl and triple clicks can be tricky. If they made the dbl click timing less aggressive, more like NarsilM or Anduril, there may not be as much reason to work around the dbl click issue.


    With this light, I’m inadvertently going into white and bumping it up a level when I really want red.


    That seems reasonable. It sounds like you aren’t the only one having trouble with the double click.
    Lightbringer
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    Never yet, and I’m not a clicky person.

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    Tom E
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    saypat wrote:
    ... there are times when I simply cannot get to the red mode and UV mode, frustrating. That triple click is difficult. Any others have this difficulty? And is it intermittent?

    It sux, for me too. That's why I'm trying to propose alternatives.

    Just did it again - 1st attempt was white up a couple notches. 2nd attempt was RED bumped up to medium, 3rd attempt worked finally.

    Lightbringer
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    Timing lottery? Ie, too short a time to register an additional click?

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    Rdubya18
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    I meant default to last led used . Low is fine . Frustrating sometimes to get to UV , and that’s what I’ve been playing with mostly.

    Lightbringer
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    “Bug” → “feature”.

    Maybe it’s a safety thing, to keep people from frying their eyeballs. LOL

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    1stein
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    Must say it again: awesome light.
    I discovered the red light is perfect for not attracting insects. Another reason to walk out the Wurkkos Cool

    Started a new thread about it here

    Lightbringer
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    Yep, and to quickly summarise, WW has less blue content than CW or even NW, so will attract bugs less.

    Red will be best of all because it has zero blue content.

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    1stein
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    I’m still waiting for my strap wrenches to open the fatty.
    Did anybody measure the glass diameter, thickness?
    It seems mine is not AR coated so I’d buy another glass.

    Lux-Perpetua
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    1stein wrote:
    [...] It seems mine is not AR coated so I'd buy another glass.

    Be careful with AR coated glasses as these seem to have (negative) influence on the tint.

    In some cases the tint shifted into green/yellow as reported in the Emisar D4S thread.

    I did not see any typical signs (purple/green-colored reflection) for AR coating on my WK30 sample, too.

    1stein
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    Lux-Perpetua wrote:

    1stein wrote:
    […] It seems mine is not AR coated so I’d buy another glass.

    Be careful with AR coated glasses as these seem to have (negative) influence on the tint.


    In some cases the tint shifted into green/yellow as reported in the Emisar D4S thread.


    I did not see any typical signs (purple/green-colored reflection) for AR coating on my WK30 sample, too.

    Thanks for waring me.
    Does it have anything in common with the color of reflections you can see on the glass surface? Sometimes the coating is green, sometimes violet, pink, blue…
    Would you recommend any alternative?

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